Bought my first classic vehicle, tips?

[Subyman]

I was kind of in the market for a classic truck over the last few years and checked craigslist every so often for a deal. Nothing much came along until last weekend when someone had a 1971 Ford F100 in decent shape and wanted to trade for a Subaru, which I happened to have sitting in my barn that I was preparing to sell

I'm not too familiar with old cars and trucks so I took a friend with me to check it out. We met the guy and traded vehicles for a test drive, long story short I came home in a new project truck

So the details are:
-1971 Ford F100 LWB
-Original Light Green/Mint
-1989 Mustang GT 5.0L Engine with edelbrock carb
-C4 transmission (I think)
-Refinished interior
-All the original aluminum trim

The owner before last started to turn it into a "rat rod" and painted part of the bed flat black, puke! Luckily they didn't get far, so I hoping I can get that ugly flat black off of there.

Issues I've addressed so far:
-Changed oil and filter
-Adjusted idle on carb, was idling way too high
-Added 1.5 quarts of transmission fluid, doofus said it shifted funny, now it shifts great...
-Topped off power steering fluid
-Changed wipers
-Regrounded headlights, much brighter
-Lightly polished the oxidation out of the paint and waxed it
-Swapped west coast mirror rusted hardware for stainless

Issues to address:
-Waterpump gasket
-Sloppy steering box
-Bump steer
-Get flat black paint off
-Very slow transmission leak
-Want a 15" steering wheel
-???

So, what else should I look for before trying to drive this thing regularly? Any of you guys have older cars or trucks? If so I'd love to see them. :thumbsup:

 

[jlee]

If you're going to use it as a weekend toy and not as a daily driver, I'd highly recommend looking at various classic/collector car insurance policies. When I wasn't daily driving my MR2, I had a $12k agreed value policy with $250 deductibles and full glass coverage for $211/year. That was through Safeco; rates will vary wildly...IIRC Hagerty wanted ~$1k/year.

It looks like it's in great shape - congrats on the find!

 

[Subyman]

Got back from my insurer today and insured it only for liability for now until I figure out how I'm going to work it into my driving habits.

What insurer did you go with? $211 is nice

 

[JulesMaximus]

If you're going to replace the water pump gasket you might as well replace the water pump while you're at it, especially if it looks old. Those Mustang motors are notorious for going through water pumps every 70-80k miles or so and probably half that mileage if it's an aftermarket pump. They're not overly expensive either.

That's a cool looking truck. I always liked the older Ford trucks. Interior looks great!

 

[jlee]

Got back from my insurer today and insured it only for liability for now until I figure out how I'm going to work it into my driving habits.

What insurer did you go with? $211 is nice

I went through RideNow Insurance out of Tempe AZ and the policy was with Safeco. It doesn't look like they offer insurance for IL, but I'm sure there's a local equivalent.

 

[Ferzerp]

If you're going to use it as a weekend toy and not as a daily driver, I'd highly recommend looking at various classic/collector car insurance policies. When I wasn't daily driving my MR2, I had a $12k agreed value policy with $250 deductibles and full glass coverage for $211/year. That was through Safeco; rates will vary wildly...IIRC Hagerty wanted ~$1k/year.

It looks like it's in great shape - congrats on the find!

Good grief. Is AZ one of the super high on insurance states or something? I don't pay too much more than that for my coverage on my model s.

 

[Subyman]

My 2014 Sierra, trailer, and rzr is around 1k with full coverage. They wanted $300 for liability on this one without any antique specifications. I'm sure I can do better elsewhere.

Unfortunately in the interior someone spray painted the door cards satin black and the dash they painted silver. I can probably bring the dash back to the green color but the door cards are probably a lost cause.

 

[Slacker]

Get real gauges for oil pressure and coolant temperature.

 

[Subyman]

Get real gauges for oil pressure and coolant temperature.

there are on the left of the steering wheel, you just can't see them. Good call though! I'm thinking of adding a tach down by them.

 

[jlee]

Good grief. Is AZ one of the super high on insurance states or something? I don't pay too much more than that for my coverage on my model s.

Not really - costs just vary wildly by carrier (at least for me).

NJ, on the other hand...ugh.

 

[DrDoug]

It probably came with a Ford FE (360 or 390) engine in it. A 302 in a Ford truck of that era just looks wrong (tiny in huge compartment). In the late '70's I used to have a '69 F-150 Camper Special that came with a 360 and four speed. I pulled them both and dropped a well built 390 and C6 in their place. Those years are good trucks and fun to cruise around in (it was my weekend warrior too). I sold it off and got a '77 F-350 4x4 with a 400M and C6 in it. I yanked the 400M, dropped a well built 460 in its place, put a lift kit on it and some huge tires. It was my personal monster truck.

Good buy, enjoy it!

 

[HitAnyKey]

Congrats on the new ride. I like it.

While some might think the 302 in that truck is a bit small that motor is probably good enough with decent punch.

Years back I used to drive an old 87 Dodge Ram in California. That was a blast to drive down the 405 with the windows down. Thing was a tank.

Enjoy your truck.

 

[twinrider1]

-- Lube. Easy to forget with today's sealed-for-life world.
-- Check the rear end housing fluid.
-- I'd probably pull the wheels and look at the brakes, just because.

 

[Subyman]

Great suggestions everyone, really appreciate it.

I took it to a classic car shop today and the owner looked it over and drove it. We started to get a plan together for it. I'm going to have to get the black paint they sprayed on the bed repainted because they sanded it down before painting I'm going to have a body shop hit it with period paint, I think its a one stage lacquer or enamel.

As for mechanical I've got an appointment for August for steering box rebuild, front suspension rework, and complete brake check. He suggested going with some disk brakes on the front, which I definitely agree with. I'll tackle that since I've done brakes before.

I did confirm that it had a 302 from the factory with a 3spd auto (C4 probably.) I'm very, very tempted to put a crate motor in it and have that shop do the work. They'd do new crate motor, more modern transmission with OD, new driveshaft, and new exhaust. I wanted to stay with a carb due to the looks and character. He has a 400hp 351 windsor that another client didn't end up using that he'd let go of for cheap, so I may go with that. But for now, its steering, suspension, and brakes for sure.

 

[tcG]

Cool old truck... any interesting observations about it considering it's your first classic vehicle? There are lots things I prefer about old cars compared to new ones and I'm curious about what you've found.

 

[drnickriviera]

If you are used to modern cars, the first time you take it out at night, you'll probably say the headlights suck. You can probably upgrade them to European spec lamps and add a relay setup so all the power doesn't go through the headlight switch. Bet it will make a huge difference.

 

[monkeydelmagico]

Yep brakes first. Gotta stop.

Double check the frame near the steering box. It's a known area for cracks. Convert the steering to a power unit. Does it have 9 inch rear?

Depending on what you want to do with the vehicle crate motor vs windsor is a tough call. Is there something wrong with the current motor? Might wanna check the spring rates are correct for the windsor. Heavier than the original 302? There are some sweet crate 302's and the sound is sublime. I personally think the noise from a nicely tuned 302 is one of the best sounding motors in the world. EFI for the win, ditch the carbs.

 

[hanoverphist]

what subaru did you trade for the truck?

 

[Subyman]

Cool old truck... any interesting observations about it considering it's your first classic vehicle? There are lots things I prefer about old cars compared to new ones and I'm curious about what you've found.

My dad used to buy and sell old cars as a hobby. The smell and feel of the truck reminds me of going with him to check them out when I was a little kid. So the truck is a nice reminder of good times in my childhood, which is always a great thing

I really like the amount of attention the truck takes while driving. You can't use the phone or be bothered to listen to music or day dream. The truck keeps you in the moment and constantly reminds you of its presence. Its a huge departure from modern vehicles that try to distance themselves from the driver. I like feeling the rough idle, the strange ergonomics, the attention each control forces me to commit to it (even the wind shield wipers), the constant "danger" of each rattle or new sound, and the overwhelming feeling of "things could go tits up" at any moment heightens the experience. Over time I'm sure I'll get used to every sound the vehicle makes and what that communicates to me.

If you are used to modern cars, the first time you take it out at night, you'll probably say the headlights suck. You can probably upgrade them to European spec lamps and add a relay setup so all the power doesn't go through the headlight switch. Bet it will make a huge difference.

The headlights were horrible when I first got it. I had to reground both lights and it made it much better. I like the idea of adding a relay to take some of the heat off of the original switch. It would allow me to run new, heavier gauge wire to the lights too.

Yep brakes first. Gotta stop.

Double check the frame near the steering box. It's a known area for cracks. Convert the steering to a power unit. Does it have 9 inch rear?

Depending on what you want to do with the vehicle crate motor vs windsor is a tough call. Is there something wrong with the current motor? Might wanna check the spring rates are correct for the windsor. Heavier than the original 302? There are some sweet crate 302's and the sound is sublime. I personally think the noise from a nicely tuned 302 is one of the best sounding motors in the world. EFI for the win, ditch the carbs.

Luckily the previous owner already replaced all of the brake lines. The truck does well stopping, but if I'm going to tow with it then I'd want some front discs.

It already has power steering and it has a 9in rear end.

I talked to the custom shop and am going to buy the crate motor they have. Its a 351 Windsor brand new in the crate rated at 400hp and I think 430lbft. I'm going to ditch the C4 and go with something like a AOD or newer. I'd probably go with a 302 if I wasn't getting such a great deal on the 351.

I'd like to do EFI in the future, but I'm going to see if I can get away with using the Edelbrock that came with the truck for now to save a bit of money. I'll look into EFI in the future.

 

[Subyman]

what subaru did you trade for the truck?

It was a 2000 2.5RS coupe.

 

[Scarpozzi]

That looks just like the truck my dad had when I was a kid... I remember the heater core going out and how we had to jump through the hoops to replace it. I like the mint-green. It used to be a popular color in those trucks.

 

[clok1966]

Great suggestions everyone, really appreciate it.



As for mechanical I've got an appointment for August for steering box rebuild, front suspension rework, and complete brake check. He suggested going with some disk brakes on the front, which I definitely agree with. I'll tackle that since I've done brakes before.

This! most people just don't get that the brakes on older cars are no where near new ones. Most think Not to big a deal as they still stop it, but some rush hour traffic and a sudden stop you find out why a new car stopping at 60 mph ins 200 feet is short compared to your car stopping in 400 -600 (those number where pulled out of thing air, just trying to point out it will take an old car 2-3 times as much room to stop at same speeds) feet at the same time.. Easy way to rear end somebody (my stock 64 chevy SS knows, thankfully there was almost no damage) .

I have several older cars fixed up, most are Original, but if you plan on more then a Sunday cruize, updating brakes is high on my list, 70's not so worried about drive-train, but updating to newer stuff is a good idea for everyday cruiser, really depends on what you are looking for. You picked one that you should be able to find parts for (plenty of old work trucks on farms etc.. still being used in those years, but dwindling fast im sure, My parents business still uses a Purple 69 ford Sport Custom to offload from trucks and then drive around business and put it where it goes (implement) )

 

[JamesWilliams]

I was kind of in the market for a classic truck over the last few years and checked craigslist every so often for a deal. Nothing much came along until last weekend when someone had a 1971 Ford F100 in decent shape and wanted to trade for a Subaru, which I happened to have sitting in my barn that I was preparing to sell

I'm not too familiar with old cars and trucks so I took a friend with me to check it out. We met the guy and traded vehicles for a test drive, long story short I came home in a new project truck

So the details are:
-1971 Ford F100 LWB
-Original Light Green/Mint
-1989 Mustang GT 5.0L Engine with edelbrock carb
-C4 transmission (I think)
-Refinished interior
-All the original aluminum trim

The owner before last started to turn it into a "rat rod" and painted part of the bed flat black, puke! Luckily they didn't get far, so I hoping I can get that ugly flat black off of there.

Issues I've addressed so far:
-Changed oil and filter
-Adjusted idle on carb, was idling way too high
-Added 1.5 quarts of transmission fluid, doofus said it shifted funny, now it shifts great...
-Topped off power steering fluid
-Changed wipers
-Regrounded headlights, much brighter
-Lightly polished the oxidation out of the paint and waxed it
-Swapped west coast mirror rusted hardware for stainless

Issues to address:
-Waterpump gasket
-Sloppy steering box
-Bump steer
-Get flat black paint off
-Very slow transmission leak
-Want a 15" steering wheel
-???

So, what else should I look for before trying to drive this thing regularly? Any of you guys have older cars or trucks? If so I'd love to see them. :thumbsup:

I think this blog may help you to get an idea of buying a truck at a cheap cost. Url: https://www.bcdiesel.ca/en/which-is-the-best-diesel-truck-to-buy. You can get the valid info from this blog. I can suggest you some tips
1. Checkout the investments
2. Make a comparison
3. Have a mock drive
4. make a careful study
4. think twice before do something

 

[monkeydelmagico]

Certain years of crown vic front end bolt right into your truck. 2006-2008 I think? Superior suspension bits, brakes, steering rack, etc. for not alot of loot. While the guys are doing the engine swap is the best time to address it depending on what your goals for the truck are.

BTW what the hell is the guy above me talking about? LOL

 

[Subyman]

I think he's a spammer haha.

A lot has happened in the last week with the truck. I'll give a full run down when I get to my lap top. I got a 351 Windsor and ordered all the parts I need to install it. I addressed 90% of the steering issues for $50 and I've been driving it every day with a big grin