Buying used motorcycle

Borkil

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Sep 7, 2006
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So I'm looking to get my first motorcycle. What are some things to look for when buying used from an owner? I found one that seems pretty good but he says it needs state inspection (Texas). Is it typical for me (buyer) to ask the seller to get it inspected first?

07 Kawasaki ninja 250r with ~5500 miles
 
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Alienwho

Diamond Member
Apr 22, 2001
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Motorcycles are kind of the last 'wild west' of vehicles. What I mean by this is most places don't really care that much (at least in my state). They will have you turn on your left blinker/right blinker/headlight/brake light/verify you have a mirror and make you pay $7 and let you go. I've also found my fair share of shops that don't even look at the bike at all and just whip up the inspection for you.

What I'm saying is the inspection isn't a big deal. Just check all those things I mentioned above yourself and if they work it will pass inspection.


What kind of bike is it? How many miles does it have? Usually you can get an idea of what kind of shape the bike is in just by seeing what kind of person the owner is. High revving crotch rockets (inline 4) with high miles is probably closer to death than a low revving torquey bike (like a v twin) with the same miles. Most japanese bikes like yamaha/suzuki/honda are known to run a very long time without issues where european bikes like ducati and ktm likely need more TLC.
 
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JulesMaximus

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Jul 3, 2003
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Look for signs of neglect/abuse. Rash on the frame/fairings/forks anywhere really. Look for oil leaks on the ground under the bike and on the engine. If it has fairings, feel around inside the bottom of the fairing for evidence of oil leaks and look at the parts of the engine you can see for any signs of leaking fluids. Check radiator hoses and connections for leaks. Check the fork seals and braking systems for leaks.

Make sure everything works, that the bike starts up easily and runs smoothly. Make sure the engine is cold when you get there to see the bike. You want to start it cold because if it is going to run rough it will run at its worst when it isn't up to normal operating temperature. Do not rev the engine while cold, if the owner starts doing this I would be very wary, this is not good for a motorcycle engine.

Ask about maintenance history, ownership history and when things like battery/tires have been replaced last. Do the tires have a lot of tread or are they worn? Factor in new tires when negotiating price. Motorcycle engines need more frequent maintenance than car engines do and the price of that maintenance can vary from bike to bike or even year to year along the same model of bike. Do your homework before you buy.

And last, I cannot stress this enough, do a vin check to see what the recorded history is and if it matches the information the owner gave you. I have a friend who was looking at used Ducatis earlier this year and 4 out of the first 6 bikes we looked at had mileage/stories that didn't match what the vin history told us. We had one guy tell us, "Oh, I bought it from my friend and it only has 7500 miles on it, I am the second owner." My friend asked for the vin number, ran a vin check, and found out that the guy selling it was really the 4th owner and that it was registered out of state and had changed ownership about a year prior with over 40,000 miles on it. We found another bike that was being sold at a Ducati dealership with mileage much lower than what was recorded at DMV when the bike changed hands 6 months prior.

Depending on the bike here are some common maintenance items and the cost to perform:

Oil change $75-150 (depending on bike/oil/where you take it for service)
Tires F/R $250-350 for both installed (could be as much as $500+ for high performance bikes or custom bikes)
Battery $100-150 (add about 1/2 hour labor to install for most bikes)
Valve Adjustment $300-600 (could be as much as $1200-1500 for Italian bikes)
New Chain $200 installed (add $200-300 for sprockets, if they are worn at all they should be replaced along with the chain)

If the bike has any damaged or rashed plastics these are very expensive (thousands of dollars) so unless you are adept at scouring ebay for used plastics or are going to install race plastics, which also are not cheap and come unfinished, you should probably walk away from a bike like that unless you want to make a streetfighter out of it. I've seen dealers selling used bikes with rashed up fairings/frames and parts hanging off them asking ridiculous amounts of money...

I would also steer clear of any bike with tons of mods on it.

BTW-30,000 miles on a motorcycle is considered pretty high mileage... even if the bike is 20 years old. That said, I'd take a clean bike with 30,000 miles, good maintenance history and meticulous ownership than a bike with no maintenance history and 15,000 miles that looks like it was left out in an alley for 10 years.
 
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Borkil

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Sep 7, 2006
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A 2007 kawasaki ninja 250 with ~5500 miles on it. I haven't seen it in person yet. What are some signs of a bike near death or dangerous?
 

JulesMaximus

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Jul 3, 2003
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A 2007 kawasaki ninja 250 with ~5500 miles on it. I haven't seen it in person yet. What are some signs of a bike near death or dangerous?

Those are pretty simple bikes and very easy and cheap to work on. Just look for damage from a drop or crash. Mileage is pretty low and this is not a bike people look to flip quickly to make money on so it is probably legit.

Tires are cheap but 5500 miles on 7 year old rubber they probably need to be replaced if they haven't already. Same with the battery.

If it starts up easily and runs smooth and it looks clean you are probably golden. Check the fluid levels and if everything looks good and the price is right you can't go wrong with a bike like this.
 

Alienwho

Diamond Member
Apr 22, 2001
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You'll have moved on from that bike long before it ever gets close to death. Like Jules said, if it starts cold and runs fine you won't have any problems. Enjoy your first bike.

Let me throw out one alternative. If you are serious about riding and have a bit of experience on motorcycles already you may owe it to yourself to take a look at a Suzuki SV650. I'll bet you can find one for about the same price as the 250 and you won't be itching to upgrade in 3 months. It has the reputation of a bike that is easy enough for beginners to ride but fast and fun enough that many veterans choose to own. It's also super cheap to buy and maintain and they run forever and are super reliable.

I own one right now and it's a great bike. Not the fastest bike I've had but it has a torquey V twin that always has the right amount of power available and a sound that makes most other bike owners jealous.
 

monkeydelmagico

Diamond Member
Nov 16, 2011
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Carb gets gummed up on the 250's fairly easily. Make sure when you go to test it you are starting it up from COLD. A touch (be careful) of exhaust will let you know if owner "warmed" it up for you.

Thermostat not opening is also fairly common so be prepared to run the bike for a bit to ensure it cools.

Check out the chain and sprocket. Youtube it because a video is worth 1 million words. If the chain or sprocket are worn at 5K miles you can bet the owner didn't take care of it.
 

MiataNC

Platinum Member
Dec 5, 2007
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A 2007 kawasaki ninja 250 with ~5500 miles on it. I haven't seen it in person yet. What are some signs of a bike near death or dangerous?

Jules covered everything you need to look for.

I just want to add a couple of things...

You need to "pre-flight" a bike every time you ride it. Doubly so when looking at a used bike. Check the lights (test brake lights separately), tire pressure, horn, cables, brakes, etc. before starting the engine and throwing a leg over the saddle every time you ride.

Bikes will have the VIN and engine serial number on the data plate (usually mounted at the front of the bike near the fork tube. Make sure the engine number matches the number on the VIN plate. The engine numbers are usually pretty easy to read on the side of the engine case. It is very common for thieves and scammers to strip and rebuild bikes with parts from other bikes. If the numbers don't match walk away.
 

Sattern

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Jul 20, 2014
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Look at things such as year, condition and hours (mileage).

Most motorcycles should be in good condition before you even look at them.

Sometimes I even look to see if the owner took quality care of it and did proper maintenance.
 

Zenmervolt

Elite member
Oct 22, 2000
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Depending on the bike here are some common maintenance items and the cost to perform:

Oil change $75-150 (depending on bike/oil/where you take it for service)
Tires F/R $250-350 for both installed (could be as much as $500+ for high performance bikes or custom bikes)
Battery $100-150 (add about 1/2 hour labor to install for most bikes)
Valve Adjustment $300-600 (could be as much as $1200-1500 for Italian bikes)
New Chain $200 installed (add $200-300 for sprockets, if they are worn at all they should be replaced along with the chain)

This is one reason why I recommend 1980s Japanese standards as first bikes. For my CB450SC costs are more like this:

Oil Change: $22 for oil and filter, ~15 minutes of my time to drain/fill.
Tires F/R: This one's about the same as your list, tires don't change much in price.
Battery: $40 (Yuasa YB12A), under 10 minutes to replace.
Valve Adjustment: $7 for a feeler gauge, maybe another $10 for a flathead screwdriver and a wrench set. Then just set the screw and jamb nuts - no mucking about with shims.
New Chain: $57. Add another $42 if I need both new sprockets. Install is a couple hours of my time, but easy since the bike has its own center stand.

The thing about bikes is that they tend to age better than cars. So a bike from the 1980s is still likely in decent shape. Plus, maintenance is vastly more simplified as compared to cars, so it's relatively easy to do your own work, even for a relative novice.

BTW-30,000 miles on a motorcycle is considered pretty high mileage... even if the bike is 20 years old.

We come from very different motorcycling circles... Most of the guys I know don't replace their bikes until over 100,000 miles.

ZV
 
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JulesMaximus

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Jul 3, 2003
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This is one reason why I recommend 1980s Japanese standards as first bikes. For my CB450SC costs are more like this:

Oil Change: $22 for oil and filter, ~15 minutes of my time to drain/fill.
Tires F/R: This one's about the same as your list, tires don't change much in price.
Battery: $40 (Yuasa YB12A), under 10 minutes to replace.
Valve Adjustment: $7 for a feeler gauge, maybe another $10 for a flathead screwdriver and a wrench set. Then just set the screw and jamb nuts - no mucking about with shims.
New Chain: $57. Add another $42 if I need both new sprockets. Install is a couple hours of my time, but easy since the bike has its own center stand.

The thing about bikes is that they tend to age better than cars. So a bike from the 1980s is still likely in decent shape. Plus, maintenance is vastly more simplified as compared to cars, so it's relatively easy to do your own work, even for a relative novice.

He didn't state what bike in his original post (he edited that after my first response) so I was being conservative. Didn't want to tell him it costs $150 to change both tires and then find out he was looking at custom choppers or 1000cc super sports.


We come from very different motorcycling circles... Most of the guys I know don't replace their bikes until over 100,000 miles.

ZV
Look at the vast majority of bikes for sale. Just a guess but I'd say 80% of them have less than 25,000 miles on them.

Also, I have friends who I've known for more than a decade who have changed cars once or twice during that time but owned 6-7 different motorcycles during the same period.

Edit-And look at the bike the OP is considering. 7 years old and it has only 5,500 miles on it.
 
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Zenmervolt

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Oct 22, 2000
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He didn't state what bike in his original post (he edited that after my first response) so I was being conservative. Didn't want to tell him it costs $150 to change both tires and then find out he was looking at custom choppers or 1000cc super sports.

That's fair, and I didn't mean to discount your prices as wrong. They're definitely right for newer bikes. I just wanted to show why an old UJM might be a really good choice from a cost perspective.

Look at the vast majority of bikes for sale. Just a guess but I'd say 80% of them have less than 25,000 miles on them.

Also, I have friends who I've known for more than a decade who have changed cars once or twice during that time but owned 6-7 different motorcycles during the same period.

Edit-And look at the bike the OP is considering. 7 years old and it has only 5,500 miles on it.

I know that most bikes for sale have relatively few miles on them, but I still disagree with 30,000 miles being "pretty high mileage" for a bike. With decent care any bike should be able to come close to 100,000 miles; there's a sort of fragility myth about bikes that I don't get.

30,000 miles on a bike wouldn't even make me blink as long as the bike had been taken care of properly.

ZV
 

JulesMaximus

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Jul 3, 2003
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That's fair, and I didn't mean to discount your prices as wrong. They're definitely right for newer bikes. I just wanted to show why an old UJM might be a really good choice from a cost perspective.

Totally agree.



I know that most bikes for sale have relatively few miles on them, but I still disagree with 30,000 miles being "pretty high mileage" for a bike. With decent care any bike should be able to come close to 100,000 miles; there's a sort of fragility myth about bikes that I don't get.

30,000 miles on a bike wouldn't even make me blink as long as the bike had been taken care of properly.

ZV
Also agree and I know a guy on the Ducati message boards with 200k miles on his '93 Monster but this is not typical of most motorcyclists. I know a couple guys personally with over 50k on their bikes (one Harley, one Ducati and one Triumph). My neighbor may have around 50k on his Harley, can't recall exactly but he has put a frightening amount of money into that bike including a newly built S&S motor because he blew up the original engine.

I also wouldn't hesitate to buy a bike with 30k miles as long as it had been ridden regularly and had complete maintenance history.

I didn't mean to imply that 30k was anywhere near the limit of reliability, it certainly could be through neglect or abuse, just that a majority of bikes for sale will have fewer miles on them than that. Certainly when looking at bikes with higher miles you should probably do a little more homework about the issues you may encounter with them. I don't think I'd personally buy a motorcycle with over 100k miles on it unless it was dirt cheap (almost free) or some insanely collectible bike I was getting a killer deal on.

One other thing, a lot of buyers want bikes with fewer than 10,000 miles on them. That seems to be the magic number for some reason. I sold my SV650 and the guy who bought it was trying to chew me down on the price because it had almost 17,000 miles on it. Crazy but that's the way it is. I think it is simply because there are so many low mileage bikes out there they figure why should I pay the same amount for a bike with 10k more miles on it when I can buy this other bike that has been sitting, rotting, under a tarp for 5 years even though my bike is barely broken in and will be less trouble in the near future?
 
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Greenman

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Oct 15, 1999
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BTW-30,000 miles on a motorcycle is considered pretty high mileage...

That's the only part I would disagree with, 30k is low mileage. I would expect to get at least a 100k out of my bike (assuming the shop that wreaked it ever gets it going again).
 

Borkil

Senior member
Sep 7, 2006
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Thanks for the advice! In the pictures it looks like the the front plastic covering is missing the typical decals, so it might imply that a new one has been put on. Is this a cause for concern?
 

MiataNC

Platinum Member
Dec 5, 2007
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Thanks for the advice! In the pictures it looks like the the front plastic covering is missing the typical decals, so it might imply that a new one has been put on. Is this a cause for concern?

Ninja 250s are the perfect first bike to learn on, and used ones have usually seen a few drops by inexperienced riders. Since they are covered in plastic, the fairings take a beating before anything vital is damaged. It sounds like some plastic has been replaced. Look for damaged parts in areas that stick out...

Dropped sitting still or a 0-5mph:
Broken/Cracked/Scraped Turn signals
Bent/Scraped bar ends and levers
Bent/Scraped foot pegs and levers
etc.

Dropped at speed (all of the above plus):
Scratched/scraped forks
Scratched/scraped frame
Scratched/scraped swingarm (where the rear wheel attaches)
Scratched/Scraped/Dented tank
Scratched/Scraped engine cases
Tweaked\Bent bodywork (seat and tail section, front fairing

A 7 year old bike isn't going to be perfect, but if you see a lot of signs that the bike has been dropped, ask the seller to remove the plastics and thoroughly inspect the bike.
 

Mandres

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Jun 8, 2011
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It's an '07 Ninja 250, probably selling for $1,500-ish? Don't worry too much about it. If it starts and runs fine and pulls straight down the road you'll get back whatever you pay for it when you sell it on. If it needs new tires I would try to argue them down another $100.
 

OVerLoRDI

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Jan 22, 2006
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You'll have moved on from that bike long before it ever gets close to death. Like Jules said, if it starts cold and runs fine you won't have any problems. Enjoy your first bike.

Let me throw out one alternative. If you are serious about riding and have a bit of experience on motorcycles already you may owe it to yourself to take a look at a Suzuki SV650. I'll bet you can find one for about the same price as the 250 and you won't be itching to upgrade in 3 months. It has the reputation of a bike that is easy enough for beginners to ride but fast and fun enough that many veterans choose to own. It's also super cheap to buy and maintain and they run forever and are super reliable.

I own one right now and it's a great bike. Not the fastest bike I've had but it has a torquey V twin that always has the right amount of power available and a sound that makes most other bike owners jealous.

Another vote for the sv650. It is my first bike and I have 14 months on it. I got the itch to replace it, but I did the usual upgrades. SS brake lines, slip on exhaust, and front and rear suspension. The brake lines and suspension made a huge difference, fell back in love.

Just avoid the 2003 model. A decent amount of year specific parts that make after market parts impossible
 

Borkil

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Sep 7, 2006
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Update, I bought my first bike! Though a different one haha. I got an 04 Honda Shadow VLX 600 for 2500. Looks nice on the outside but definitely needs a tune up. Won't run without the choke on. The engine dies as soon as I close the choke. So i think the carbs need cleaning. Plus it needs an oil change too.
 

Greenman

Lifer
Oct 15, 1999
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There's a video online with a guy looking at a standard cruiser motorcycle...

This one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DlUzoUpWWdE

It has multiple parts. Contains some useful information. YMMV.

I skimmed through that. Only a brand new bike would pass his inspection, and even some of those would fail. The first thing he mentioned is bluing on the pipes. I've never seen a reasonably late late model bike without bluing. The only to avoid it is with an after market tune that's way richer than the 14.7:1 the EPA wants.

Some good info, but if you actually follow his advice you'll never buy a used bike.
 
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mindless1

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Aug 11, 2001
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That's the only part I would disagree with, 30k is low mileage. I would expect to get at least a 100k out of my bike (assuming the shop that wreaked it ever gets it going again).

Not for a 250cc Ninja, which certainly isn't the bike to take on long trips so it spent more of its time on shorter trips, high revving, constantly shifting gears to get up to speed, treated rough by a beginner more often than not.

Like another poster I too would recommend a SV650 instead, except that around here a SV650 costs nearly double what a Ninja 250 does. Of course it depends on the year but used Ninja 250's aren't hard to find for under $2k. SV650 of the same age runs $3K+.
 
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