Can I get some advice?

[noorkoteb]

Hello, so I want to build my own computer and this is my first build. after some research I found these parts.

Cpu:Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor
Gpu:MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card
MotherBoard:MSI Z97A GAMING 7 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
Ram:Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory
PSU:Corsair 750W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
Case:NZXT Phantom (White/Red) ATX Full Tower Case
Harddrive:Western Digital BLACK SERIES 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
harddrive:Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
CpuCoolingCorsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
optical drive:Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer

I mostly want to make sure that all these parts are compatible, and that it will all fit in the case. also want to make sure that the power supply is enough. Do you guys have any suggestions? I'm mostly using this for gaming, and using programs like blender so i will be 3D rendering, and video editing. I was also wondering if this is capable of 2k or 4k.

 

[ignatzatsonic]

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139084

Is the above your power supply? 750 is more than enough.

Liquid cooling on a first build? Hmmmm.............

 

[noorkoteb]

should i get another power supply? and if so what brand and how much wattage?

why shouldn't i get liquid cooling on a first build?

 

[bononos]

should i get another power supply? and if so what brand and how much wattage?

why shouldn't i get liquid cooling on a first build?

You can downsize abit since 750W is alot more than you need even if you are overclocking I think, unless you are planning to sli or get a titan like card in the future. Check the sticky build thread for 500W psu links and the links below.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151136
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151093

 

[stockwiz]

I'd stick with the 750 Watt over a 500 watt. You don't have to get a 'gold' certified either, it's not going to save you much over a bronze.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139051

 

[Valantar]

I second moving down to a ~500W PSU - no need for more unless you're planning SLI (you don't even need 750W for SLI 970s, never mind one).

I've had this unit recommended several times, and it seems to get great reviews. It's made by Seasonic like the ones linked by bononos, but it's modular as well, which is always a boon. Slightly more expensive, but worth it if you want modular cables.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817207032

 

[Valantar]

I'd stick with the 750 Watt over a 500 watt. You don't have to get a 'gold' certified either, it's not going to save you much over a bronze.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139051

Might I ask why? How is paying significantly more for an unnecessarily powerful PSU of any use? And, let's face it, most people saying "I might go SLI in a year or two" never end up going down that path. Also, saying that efficiency is unnecessary is just daft. Higher efficiency means both quieter operation and (given lower temperatures and higher build quality necessary to achieve it) a longer lasting PSU. The PSU is the last part in a build you want to skimp on, but going overboard with wattage gains you nothing (the suggested build wouldn't consume more than 350W under full load, so you'd always be in the worst part of any PSUs efficiency spectrum).

 

[BonzaiDuck]

Might I ask why? How is paying significantly more for an unnecessarily powerful PSU of any use? And, let's face it, most people saying "I might go SLI in a year or two" never end up going down that path. Also, saying that efficiency is unnecessary is just daft. Higher efficiency means both quieter operation and (given lower temperatures and higher build quality necessary to achieve it) a longer lasting PSU. The PSU is the last part in a build you want to skimp on, but going overboard with wattage gains you nothing (the suggested build wouldn't consume more than 350W under full load, so you'd always be in the worst part of any PSUs efficiency spectrum).

He can do it with a 650W PSU with a decent margin of safety, provided he sticks with the GTX 970 and intends to add a second one. If he doesn't add a second one, 500 or 550W might suffice. I estimate my own 2x GTX 970 system draws at most 530W with the peak CPU power consumption just under 140W. It's an i7-2700K OC'd to 4.7/4.8 and the NVidia cards OC'd to ~ 1450 / 7500. In the real world operation, it's not likely to even approach that sort of power draw.

 

[noorkoteb]

I was thinking about sli another gtx970 in the future. Does the power supply pull more power from the wall even if it doesn't need it like if I get a 750 or 650 and my system uses 400 will it pull 400 or will iy pull 650 regardless of how much the system needs?

 

[noorkoteb]

Oh also no one answered why I shouldn't get liquid cooling in my first build? From what I saw in videos u just connect it and u don't have to add the liquid since it's not custom. Is it harder then it sounds? Or is there maintenance where I have to add more water?

 

[lehtv]

With an AIO cooler like H100i, there is no maintenance.

First time building isn't a reason not to get an AIO... but there are other reasons. Air coolers tend to perform better per dollar and better per dBa. The thing with AIO's is they allow for a somewhat easier access to connectors and slots around the CPU area, but that hardly matters if you don't swap components often.

High end 240mm and 280mm AIO's perform better than even the best air coolers, but at dozens of dollars of extra cost for just a few C difference. To justify that extra expense, you'd have to not only be interested in overclocking, but also committed to squeezing out every last MHz by patient tinkering of CPU settings. It's not clear to me if you even intend to overclock to begin with - and with a 4790K that runs 4.2-4.4GHz stock, it's never going to pay off in a big way. For all I can tell, you could get away with a basic 120mm tower for $30.

As for the rest of your build, it looks fine for the most part, though almost every part could be swapped out for a less expensive one that does the same job. E.g.
- change Corsair memory to a cheaper (but equally reliable) brand
- Z97 to H97, unless you intend to OC and/or need SLI support
- don't pay for a platinum 750W unit when you most likely would be fine with a 500-600W bronze/gold unit
- paying for a flashy case is up to you, but the case itself adds nothing to the PC's performance
- WD black to WD blue
- Samsung 850 EVO to Crucial BX100
- MSI GTX 970 to a cheaper brand

 

[mfenn]

As for the rest of your build, it looks fine for the most part, though almost every part could be swapped out for a less expensive one that does the same job. E.g.
- change Corsair memory to a cheaper (but equally reliable) brand
- Z97 to H97, unless you intend to OC and/or need SLI support
- don't pay for a platinum 750W unit when you most likely would be fine with a 500-600W bronze/gold unit
- paying for a flashy case is up to you, but the case itself adds nothing to the PC's performance
- WD black to WD blue
- Samsung 850 EVO to Crucial BX100
- MSI GTX 970 to a cheaper brand

:thumbsup: Agree.

OP, it would really help if you let us know where you are buying the parts from and the prices that you're setting (actually, answering these questions would cover it). It's very likely that you could get essentially the same machine for hundreds of dollars less.

 

[noorkoteb]

well i will be using this for animating on 3d programs so i will have to leave the pc open for a very long time and overclock it so i get stuff done faster. thats the reason i went with that mother board and the water cooling


1. What YOUR PC will be used for. That means what types of tasks you'll be performing.
Animating, rendering,games,video editing and recording
2. What YOUR budget is. A price range is acceptable as long as it's not more than a 20% spread

700-1200 the parts i choose go to 1300 which is ok would be nice to bring it down to 1100 if possible tho

3. What country YOU will be buying YOUR parts from.
United states

5. IF YOU have a brand preference. That means, are you an Intel-Fanboy, AMD-Fanboy, ATI-Fanboy, nVidia-Fanboy, Seagate-Fanboy, WD-Fanboy, etc.
Intel

6. If YOU intend on using any of YOUR current parts, and if so, what those parts are.
these are the parts i am mostly thinking about
7. IF YOU plan on overclocking or run the system at default speeds.
Overclocking
8. What resolution, not monitor size, will you be using?
1080p possibly will upgrade to 2k
9. WHEN do you plan to build it?
2weeks to a month
10. Do you need to purchase any software to go with the system, such as Windows or Blu Ray playback software?
NOPE

 

[Valantar]

OP: You say you're considering going SLI - when will this be? From my experience, unless you plan on buying the second card within a year, it's not going to happen. You will most likely find that upgrading to a newer card gives you better (and more consistent) performance than any SLI setup, in addition to various new features (such as full DX12 support) and for not much more money. And if that's the case, having spent the extra money for an overpowered PSU is a complete waste.

Also, the computer only uses the power it needs (otherwise the PSU would be dissipating several hundred watts worth of heat, oh my). Only the efficiency of different PSUs at a given wattage will cause the power draw to differ with the same components. Still, going for a reasonably sized PSU is the smart thing to do, as PSUs tend to be more efficient in the 30%-70% load band (with some differences, of course, and >70% tends to be more efficient than <30%). So if you're using 250-300W under a heavy gaming load (I'd say that's pretty normal for a GTX 970 setup) with a 750W PSU, that puts you at a decent efficiency only at maximum loads - anything except gaming will be wasting electricity and generating unnecessary heat.

 

[noorkoteb]

so i should get a 550watt?

 

[noorkoteb]

I found these

Antec EarthWatts Platinum Series EA-550 Platinum 550W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS PLATINUM Certified Power Supply - Intel Haswell Fully Compatible

EVGA 220-GS-0550-V1 550W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Full Modular Power Supply

with rebate they are both like $55 which one is better?

also one is modular one is non-modular whats better?

 

[lehtv]

8. What resolution, not monitor size, will you be using?
1080p possibly will upgrade to 2k

1080p is 2K. Do you mean upgrade to 4K?

 

[lehtv]

As mentioned, the 4790K already runs at 4.2-4.4GHz. There is no substantial gain to be had from overclocking it unless you really know what you're doing and have the patience to get a high clock speed and voltage stable during heavy workloads.

I would just grab a 212 EVO and set the turbo to constant 4.4 on stock voltage.

 

[lehtv]

with rebate they are both like $55 which one is better?

Neither is optimal

also one is modular one is non-modular whats better?

Modular is generally better than non-modular. It refers to the cables on the unit: with a modular unit, you won't have unused cables getting in the way of building a tidy setup. However with a 500-600W unit, modularity is a bit pointless because you'll be using most cables anyway.

For a single GPU setup, I would buy HCG-620M for $50 AR. For SLI support, Antec TP-750C $70 AR.

 

[noorkoteb]

Neither is optimal

why is neither optimal? I'm using PC part picker and with the parts I selected it estimates 361 watts shouldn't 550 be enough? or is there something that is not calculated?

 

[lehtv]

why is neither optimal? I'm using PC part picker and with the parts I selected it estimates 361 watts shouldn't 550 be enough? or is there something that is not calculated?

The wattage is fine. I was referring to quality - Antec EA-550 Platinum is only backed by 3 year warranty and has pretty bad low load efficiency for a Platinum rated unit, and also uses 85°C rated capacitors instead of higher grade 105°C rated ones.

As for EVGA GS - I took a closer look and it seems it's a Seasonic under the hood with high quality capacitors and 5 year warranty. It's a good pick.

 

[mfenn]

well i will be using this for animating on 3d programs so i will have to leave the pc open for a very long time and overclock it so i get stuff done faster. thats the reason i went with that mother board and the water cooling


1. What YOUR PC will be used for. That means what types of tasks you'll be performing.
Animating, rendering,games,video editing and recording
2. What YOUR budget is. A price range is acceptable as long as it's not more than a 20% spread

700-1200 the parts i choose go to 1300 which is ok would be nice to bring it down to 1100 if possible tho

3. What country YOU will be buying YOUR parts from.
United states

5. IF YOU have a brand preference. That means, are you an Intel-Fanboy, AMD-Fanboy, ATI-Fanboy, nVidia-Fanboy, Seagate-Fanboy, WD-Fanboy, etc.
Intel

6. If YOU intend on using any of YOUR current parts, and if so, what those parts are.
these are the parts i am mostly thinking about
7. IF YOU plan on overclocking or run the system at default speeds.
Overclocking
8. What resolution, not monitor size, will you be using?
1080p possibly will upgrade to 2k
9. WHEN do you plan to build it?
2weeks to a month
10. Do you need to purchase any software to go with the system, such as Windows or Blu Ray playback software?
NOPE

Given that you are very interested in reducing the amount of time that the computer spends doing batch jobs like 3D rendering and video encoding, I tried to see if I could get a 6-core into your budget.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz 6-Core Processor ($362.95 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Thermalright TRUE Spirit 120M(BW) Rev.A 46.2 CFM CPU Cooler ($32.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: ASRock X99 Extreme4 ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard ($162.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($145.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: OCZ ARC 100 240GB 2.5&quot; Solid State Drive ($90.87 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5&quot; 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($51.49 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 290X 4GB Tr-X OC Video Card ($279.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair 300R ATX Mid Tower Case ($59.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: Antec High Current Gamer 620W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Lite-On iHAS124-14 DVD/CD Writer ($12.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1250.23
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-06-01 19:30 EDT-0400

You could also swap the CPU/mobo/RAM out for the i7 4790K, 1150 mobo, and DDR3 and save about $160, putting you right at $1100. That would be just as fast (if not faster) in games, but would lose out in long CPU-intensive processing jobs.

 

[noorkoteb]

cool thx :thumbsup: for all your help guys

 

[fortworthtechs]

The Alienware 17 is a best option for build a PC as you wanted. It engineered for high-performance gaming, combining jaw-dropping power with mind-blowing graphics capabilities.

 

[Valantar]

The Alienware 17 is a best option for build a PC as you wanted. It engineered for high-performance gaming, combining jaw-dropping power with mind-blowing graphics capabilities.

That's a laptop. It doesn't come close to the performance of a similarly priced desktop, and would be incredibly noisy and hot under heavy loads.