Canadian origin?? Any issues?

[DrPizza]

Going to look at a truck this afternoon; the website says that the truck is of Canadian origin; any issues - potential down the road problems because some emissions requirement is different from some US emissions requirement, or something like that?


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Okay, the wife insists I replace my van this weekend with a truck. Can't replace it with another van, because they dropped the tow capacity down to 1000 pounds.

*Often tow a 3500 pound boat in the summer
*2-3 times a month, 2000 pound loads (grain, coal)
*Slippery roads are common, edge of the snow belt in Western NY; 4x4 preferred
*it would be nice to be able to haul larger loads of hay, say, 8000 pounds
*regularly get things like plywood, drywall, etc., and regularly haul kayaks, so I'd prefer not having a short bed
*massive amounts of salt on the road in the winter, so, sorry, no Dodge - everyone around here says they rust out too quickly - I'd try to get another year out of my van, (grand caravan), but it has holes rusting through.

Recommendations?

 

[satyajitmenon]

New/used? Budget?

Buddy of mine just picked up a GMC Sierra 2500 Denali Diesel to tow his race car & trailer. I'm assuming you're not looking to spend 70k?

 

[DrPizza]

Budget... I figure anywhere from 10k for an older used, up to maybe 30k for a more recent used, or new.

 

[SithSolo1]

Well for new I'd say look at a Chevy Colorado or a Silverado 1500.

The Colorados are new so you won't find any deals on them but with the v6 they can pull about 7000lbs.

Silverados are larger and more expensive but if you can find a base model '14 or '15 w/ 4x4 and the V8 you might be able to haggle it down under $30k. I think the v8 is rated for 11200lbs towing and the v6 is 5600lbs.


edited for correct towing numbers

 

[Greenman]

Those specs pretty much leave you at a full size truck. I've always been a Ford guy, though it appears that Chevy and GM are just as good. But an aluminium body that doesn't rust just makes sense.

 

[MongGrel]

I haven't owned a pickup since 1984 or so since I had a GMC High Sierra 4x4 shortbed, but I'd think something along a Ford 150 or so line might be the thing these days.

There has to be a reason they are so popular, my Mazda 3 even is an old Ford frame C1 I believe and I grew up in a GM family.

Ford does make good pickups, my father who passed on and worked for GM a long time even drove a buddies with a turbo setup was impressed, but that's a old story.

F250 extended cab? I do not know them that well or looked for a pickup in a long time I guess.

To be honest, I wouldn't buy a GMC again ever myself.

 

[SithSolo1]

But an aluminium body that doesn't rust just makes sense.

I completely agree but being fresh off the line you aren't gonna find many deals and the options add up quick. If you configure a base XL with 4x4, v8, 6.5' bed, and tow package you're looking at over $33k. 8' bed is only another $300 if you need the space but if you need more cabin room the next step up is almost another $3k. V8 should give you 9700lbs towing with the 3.73 axle.

Maybe look for used F250 or Silverado/Sierra 2500 turbo diesels without super high miles.

 

[Jumpem]

Those specs pretty much leave you at a full size truck. I've always been a Ford guy, though it appears that Chevy and GM are just as good. But an aluminium body that doesn't rust just makes sense.

That's a good call here in upstate NY where they over salt the roads.

 

[skyking]

Get a west coast or southern used truck and put a few hundred into rust prevention. I think it can pay off if you figure out all the problem crevices.

 

[MongGrel]

Not even sure what a 2010 would go for, but yeah something along these lines.

*edit around 40K it looks.*

Maybe a bit older one.

 

[MongGrel]

http://www.2040-cars.com/Ford/F-250/2005-ford-f-250-crew-cab-diesel-347899/

7K is dirt cheap, but is 100K+ miles.

Just throwing a few ideas out there if I were looking for a pick up I guess.

You might find a nice happy one in between the two.

 

[Zivic]

I have had a few trucks. I prefer the toyota tundras myself, though I think ford, and dodge are good trucks as well.... I would never buy a GM truck. I have had them on the farm via trades, and an other various means and I personally think their trucks are garbage. I also wouldn't venture into 3/4 ton territory.

I personally prefer the tundra overall, though the mileage isn't something to be ignored. the 5.7 in it is a great motor, but sucks the fuel. the ford's twin turbo is a bad@ss. for the record I will be getting into a new tundra in June (lease).

 

[DrPizza]

I almost signed the paperwork this afternoon; all was done for a 2014 F-150, crew cab, 6.5' bed. 10k miles, $27k. But, it was white. As I sat there, I started having second thoughts. They came out of the back office with things ready to go, and I said, "give me til Monday morning to think this over." I'm leaning more and more towards "no." Looked at the Frontiers and Tacomas this afternoon; it isn't 4 feet between the wheel wells. No way I'm getting a pickup that can't handle a sheet of plywood without putting it at some weird angle. And, used Tundras were non-existent in these parts. 4 more dealers in PA to go to tomorrow morning; but saw a 2010 F-150 for a pretty good price (I think) - $16k. But, it'll depend on the mileage; dealer was closed at the time.

 

[Meghan54]

Avoid Toyota....after living on Cape Cod for a few years, one thing I noticed was every darned Toyota truck was a rusty mess, esp. in the rear. Almost no exceptions.

Ford or GM. Personally, I'd go GM. I've had a Silverado for 2 years now, an '03 with 125k on it currently, and it just runs. Best riding truck I've ever been in, vastly better than the buckboards that carry the Ford oval. Has the 5.3L V-8 and it's averaging 18.5 mpg, and that includes towing a 3k# boat and a 6x12 enclosed trailer.

 

[DrPizza]

Thanks, Meghan. And today, I'm am relieved that I didn't sign yesterday. We were told the truck was clean. I didn't pay close attention to things on the truck that I took for granted based on what the salesman said. Our paperwork said it was a 2014; salesman said it was a 2014. Wife still liked it; but something seemed wrong to me; it just didn't feel right - probably because I don't want a white vehicle, when my road turns to dirt road 50 yards past my driveway. After the wife did a thorough check on it this morning - carfax, etc., she found all the service records on something or other. Turns out that 2014 was a 2013; someone made a mistake somewhere. And, it also appears that the vehicle has been on the dealer's lot since last August. I noted the date of the last oil change - September 14 on the windshield sticker, which had been 56 miles before the end of our test drive. (I didn't look at the mileage at the beginning, since "change oil" and "low gas" kept blinking intermittently while I was driving it - leading me to see the sticker on the windshield.

 

[DrPizza]

Incidentally, earlier in this thread, someone mentioned rust proofing -

At the dealer, I can get it rust-proofed by the dealer; some sort of electrical thing, polarity of the body or some-such. I presumed that it was something like putting in a sacrificial anode or something.

Anyway, for $1000, the dealer does *something* to make the vehicle corrosion proof - and that warranty is supposed to last for the life of the vehicle (with a $100 deductible each instance unless I took it to the dealer for the work.) Some sort of scam? Seems that the manufacturers would put something like this into their winter-area vehicles by default.

And, if it's something the dealers can do; then it's probably something I can do? Someone mentioned rust proofing the vehicle in the thread - how? What steps are most effective?

 

[LTC8K6]

http://247wallst.com/autos/2015/04/25/suddenly-ford-offers-big-discounts-on-new-f-series-pickups/

Ford has decent discounts on 2015 F-150 in some areas:

In New York City, the F-Series is available in at least one configuration, with $4,250 in total savings. This model in question is the F-150 XLT. There are discounts on several other versions.

 

[slag]

I have had a few trucks. I prefer the toyota tundras myself, though I think ford, and dodge are good trucks as well.... I would never buy a GM truck. I have had them on the farm via trades, and an other various means and I personally think their trucks are garbage. I also wouldn't venture into 3/4 ton territory.

I personally prefer the tundra overall, though the mileage isn't something to be ignored. the 5.7 in it is a great motor, but sucks the fuel. the ford's twin turbo is a bad@ss. for the record I will be getting into a new tundra in June (lease).

My brother in law has a 2011 silverado specced relatively similar to my 2008 tundra. He finally saw my tundra this weekend. His words.."Holy shit, I love how the back glass goes all the way down. Also, your backup camera and screen have a better resolution than the one in my truck that is integrated with my mirror. Also the rear seat is larger than my truck also. "

I should add we paid about the same price. Mine has 119k on it, his has about 40k on it. I do like the look of his truck though, its all white and looks really nice, but it's louder than the tundra and not as nice imho.

For the record, I get about 17.5 mpg highway and some town driving if I don't put my foot in it. Hard not to do with 381 horses available though.

 

[slag]

I almost signed the paperwork this afternoon; all was done for a 2014 F-150, crew cab, 6.5' bed. 10k miles, $27k. But, it was white. As I sat there, I started having second thoughts. They came out of the back office with things ready to go, and I said, "give me til Monday morning to think this over." I'm leaning more and more towards "no." Looked at the Frontiers and Tacomas this afternoon; it isn't 4 feet between the wheel wells. No way I'm getting a pickup that can't handle a sheet of plywood without putting it at some weird angle. And, used Tundras were non-existent in these parts. 4 more dealers in PA to go to tomorrow morning; but saw a 2010 F-150 for a pretty good price (I think) - $16k. But, it'll depend on the mileage; dealer was closed at the time.

I flew from KC to Dallas to get my tundra. It was well worth the flight and drive back.

 

[skyking]

Incidentally, earlier in this thread, someone mentioned rust proofing -

At the dealer, I can get it rust-proofed by the dealer; some sort of electrical thing, polarity of the body or some-such. I presumed that it was something like putting in a sacrificial anode or something.

Anyway, for $1000, the dealer does *something* to make the vehicle corrosion proof - and that warranty is supposed to last for the life of the vehicle (with a $100 deductible each instance unless I took it to the dealer for the work.) Some sort of scam? Seems that the manufacturers would put something like this into their winter-area vehicles by default.

And, if it's something the dealers can do; then it's probably something I can do? Someone mentioned rust proofing the vehicle in the thread - how? What steps are most effective?

I would ask where the worst areas are on your target vehicle, and give them special attention. Some body seams and pockets collect dirt and grime, and effectively hold the salt there to do the most damage. You can either drain those areas, seal them off properly with undercoating, clean them regularly or protect them with ACF-50 or the like.
http://learchem.com/products/acf-50.html

 

[DrPizza]

Thanks.

No one knows the implications of getting a Canadian vehicle? Sticker on the window alerts the buyer that there may be some differences in emissions equipment between the two countries. I'm just hoping there are no down the road ramifications - parts that aren't available in the US, or OBD codes being different, or something weird.

Leaning toward a 2014 F150 crew cab, cherry red, very low miles. No tow package, but that's easy enough to install. I didn't look, but a salesman walking by said they're all pre-wired for the tow packages.

 

[Accord99]

Thanks.

No one knows the implications of getting a Canadian vehicle? Sticker on the window alerts the buyer that there may be some differences in emissions equipment between the two countries. I'm just hoping there are no down the road ramifications - parts that aren't available in the US, or OBD codes being different, or something weird.

Realistically, the only differences between Canadian and American cars will be the speedometer, additional use of icons over words, DRLs for manufacturers that don't already do DRL in the USA and some non-essential features. For example, Canadian Hondas of the same trim include extras like a bigger washer fluid reservoir and some extras for the winter.

The low Canadian dollar has made Canadian used vehicles profitable for import. The opposite happens when the Canadian dollar is strong.

 

[Jimzz]

Yea the Chevy Colorado/GMC Canyon can do pull 7000pds equipped right.

After that look at the GMC, Chevy, or Ford 1/2 Ton. I prefer the GMC or Chevy trucks but if Ford has a good deal then they will be fine as well. Just make sure to read everything as changing a single option can affect the tow capacity quite a bit.

 

[boomerang]

No one knows the implications of getting a Canadian vehicle?

Check this out.

http://www.nhtsa.gov/cars/rules/import/

 

[NuroMancer]

Just be careful about getting an oilfield truck. If it was registered in AB, or SK its probably been ridden hard and put away wet.

I know someone here who has exported our trucks every time the dollar falls apart. He's never had an issue.