Canon's $40 Super-Macro Lens

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Flipped Gazelle

Diamond Member
Sep 5, 2004
6,666
3
81
Most lenses made within the last 30-40 years (even manual focus ones) maintain automatic aperture, meaning that the aperture stays at f/2 (or whatever the max aperture is) until a moment before the shutter opens. Then the aperture lever stops down the aperture for proper exposure. This is sometimes true even when using old lenses on modern DSLRs...for example, the Nikon D300 can offer auto-aperture in A and M modes with most older Nikkor manual focus lenses.

If you lose all contact with the lens (whether it be mechanical or electronic), the lens will not stop down by itself before the exposure and you must stop it down to meter.

Try this on your DSLR: set a lens to f/22 and press the DoF preview button. That's how dark the viewfinder looks at f/22. It's even a bit darker for macro b/c of the close subject distance reducing the effective aperture of the lens.

I was thinking about this while I was out and about today... I attached my contact-less Tamron 2x TC to my Tamron 70-300 lens, and set the aperture to f/22. Sure enough, the VF was dim, but not so dim as to prevent me from focusing properly.
 

Lemon law

Lifer
Nov 6, 2005
20,984
3
0
Being an old junkie from the film single l reflex days, I sure remember how that step lens down stuff was done.

And while you could view the brighter non stepped down image until the moment of exposure, once you pressed the shutter, this little dohickus engaged, pressed a pin on the lens itself, and steeped down the lens to whatever aperture you had preselected. And once actual exposure had been accomplished, the dohickus retracted and once again the view was at wide open lens aperture.

Sadly, as everything has gone electronic in digital SLR days, I very much wonder if that dohickus function would have been better be retained. It was simple, effective, and cheap. Why did we lose such a marvelous mechanism?
 

996GT2

Diamond Member
Jun 23, 2005
5,212
0
76
Being an old junkie from the film single l reflex days, I sure remember how that step lens down stuff was done.

And while you could view the brighter non stepped down image until the moment of exposure, once you pressed the shutter, this little dohickus engaged, pressed a pin on the lens itself, and steeped down the lens to whatever aperture you had preselected. And once actual exposure had been accomplished, the dohickus retracted and once again the view was at wide open lens aperture.

Sadly, as everything has gone electronic in digital SLR days, I very much wonder if that dohickus function would have been better be retained. It was simple, effective, and cheap. Why did we lose such a marvelous mechanism?

Only Canon has gone to an all-electronic mount. Nikon, Pentax, and others still have aperture levers in their lenses, including modern AF lenses like the Nikkor 70-200mm VR. You can see it on the back of the lens...there's a little lever poking out for stopping down the aperture right before exposure.
 

hardass

Senior member
Apr 10, 2002
492
1
81
interesting mod!!! Would I still need to mod the lens for my Cannon Rebel XS DSLR?
 

ElFenix

Elite Member
Super Moderator
Mar 20, 2000
102,425
8,388
126
Being an old junkie from the film single l reflex days, I sure remember how that step lens down stuff was done.

And while you could view the brighter non stepped down image until the moment of exposure, once you pressed the shutter, this little dohickus engaged, pressed a pin on the lens itself, and steeped down the lens to whatever aperture you had preselected. And once actual exposure had been accomplished, the dohickus retracted and once again the view was at wide open lens aperture.

Sadly, as everything has gone electronic in digital SLR days, I very much wonder if that dohickus function would have been better be retained. It was simple, effective, and cheap. Why did we lose such a marvelous mechanism?

meh. my pentax you have to flip a switch on the side of the camera to stop down, then press the shutter, then flip the switch again to open back up.

been looking for an exakta. with that one you focus, stop down, press the shutter, and then you have to wind before the mirror resets.


and yes, nikon still uses an aperture lever. 996gt2 isn't quite right, contax N bodies and lenses are also all electronic. but hardly anyone ever bought one as the system didn't come out until 2000 and what was the point of an all new 35 mm system in 2000 (same year canon released the D30 with their first home-grown CMOS sensor)?
 
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bondboy

Senior member
Apr 2, 2005
877
0
0
Buy a cheap older Nikon manual focus prime lens (50mm, 35mm, 28mm) and a reversing ring. Hacking yourself a cheap 1:1 macro setup isn't hard for any brand of camera. Just beware of the usual limitations: manual focus (typically by moving the camera back/forth), very short working distance, you need to stop down the lens quite a bit to get decent depth-of-field, and the whole process almost necessitates a tripod or set of macro-focusing rails.

If you want a point-and-click macro setup, you're still better off with a macro lens.

I just want to add that if you do decide to go this route, get the manual focus 55mm Micro-Nikkor f/3.5. It's a real macro lens (1:2) that will mount on any Nikon DSLRs (AI version) without need for any reversing rings. Everything jpeyton said above is true about its limitations, but it's one of the sharpest lens I own.
 

troytime

Golden Member
Jan 3, 2006
1,996
1
0
i already have the 50mm

reversed, it sucks. macro capability - sure, but real world usage sucks
extended seems to work MUCH better than reversed. its considerably easier to shoot with on the field

i've also stacked it on an extended macro lens for AMAZING magnification, but pretty much impossible to use without a tripod and focus rails

so far my best macro option is the vivitar 70-210 i picked up off ebay for 35 bucks and the $8 extension tubes from dealextreme.com
 

996GT2

Diamond Member
Jun 23, 2005
5,212
0
76
Quick update:

Calculated approximate minimum/maximum magnification ratios with my 40D and a ruler.

Minimum magnification is about 0.82x at the 35mm zoom setting. Maximum magnification is about 1.71x life size at the 80mm zoom setting. Most dedicated macro lenses will not reach 1.71x unless several extension tubes are stacked behind them, which makes this feat even more impressive on a $40 modded zoom lens.
 

twistedlogic

Senior member
Feb 4, 2008
606
0
0
Most dedicated macro lenses will not reach 1.71x unless several extension tubes are stacked behind them, which makes this feat even more impressive on a $40 modded zoom lens.

I thought most dedicated macro lenses do at least 1:1, with extension tubes going beyond 1:1.
 

Flipped Gazelle

Diamond Member
Sep 5, 2004
6,666
3
81
I thought most dedicated macro lenses do at least 1:1, with extension tubes going beyond 1:1.

Off the top of my head, I can't think of any dedicated macro lenses going beyond 1:1. Conventional lenses that sport a "macro" setting are, at best, 3:1.

In order to get a 1:1 macro lens to 2:1, I think you'd need to have extension tubes to double the minimum focusing distance (assuming you're as close as can be). I think... hopefully someone will correct me if I'm wrong.

Or, you could use a diopter lens, like the Raynox DCR-150 & 250. I use the DCR-150 at the end of my Tamron 70-300, and at 300mm, and I can span 1/2 the width of the frame with the head of a dragonfly.
 

996GT2

Diamond Member
Jun 23, 2005
5,212
0
76
I thought most dedicated macro lenses do at least 1:1, with extension tubes going beyond 1:1.

Most dedicated macro lenses will do a maximum of 1:1 without extension tubes or close-up filters. A rare exception would be the Canon MP-E 65 that goes from 1x to 5x (but does not have infinity focus).

Otherwise, to get near 2:1 on a conventional macro lens requires 50-60mm worth of extension tubes.
 

timswim78

Diamond Member
Jan 1, 2003
4,330
1
81
Just got it in the mail a few minutes ago. I have a shaky tripod, my wife was walking around, and poor lighting. I'll try to do better later. Anyway, can you guess what this is?

 
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ElFenix

Elite Member
Super Moderator
Mar 20, 2000
102,425
8,388
126
I just want to add that if you do decide to go this route, get the manual focus 55mm Micro-Nikkor f/3.5. It's a real macro lens (1:2) that will mount on any Nikon DSLRs (AI version) without need for any reversing rings. Everything jpeyton said above is true about its limitations, but it's one of the sharpest lens I own.

i have the pre-AI version with an adapter ring for my canon. about the best it can do is fill the frame with a watch face. some extension tubes would probably let me fill it with a pencil.

nice thing about using it on a canon is the camera will still meter and autoexpose.
 

Lemon law

Lifer
Nov 6, 2005
20,984
3
0
To 996GT2,

You are somewhat my hero as you have motivated me to get such a lens. And since your original post on 2/17/2010, you have probably otherwise inflated the ebay market because everyone and their brother in law now wants one.

I have somewhat held my peace until today, when I oh happy day, I got one of those EF 35-80 mm lens that fully works for $30.00 shipped. Not here yet, but within a week.

Now my dilemma starts.

(1) Like most people, I have a canon digital camera with the kit 18-55 mm kits lens. And for my type needs, the 35-80mm lens sounds like a better walk around lens for my needs. And like many others that like wildlife photos, I also have a 70-300 mm EF lens to reach out at distance. Would be nice to have L quality lens, but like many others, there are champagne tastes and beer pocketbooks.

(2) In Indiana, its many months before insect season will start. And therefore as a patient man, my next project is to knock down another such 35-80mm lens cheap, and then take the lens that does the worst job at automatic focusing and do the mod you are talking about.

(3) And now we are talking about the newbie factor as I am totally baffled at your set of instructions. As you, mumble something about removing the front lens decal, what lens decal?, then removing some screws, what screws?, and then removing one, two, or three front lens elements how?. And are these modifications reversible? In short, if I screw up, I only waste my money.

Therefore, can you please please post some step by agonizing step photo's
 

996GT2

Diamond Member
Jun 23, 2005
5,212
0
76
To 996GT2,

You are somewhat my hero as you have motivated me to get such a lens. And since your original post on 2/17/2010, you have probably otherwise inflated the ebay market because everyone and their brother in law now wants one.

I have somewhat held my peace until today, when I oh happy day, I got one of those EF 35-80 mm lens that fully works for $30.00 shipped. Not here yet, but within a week.

Now my dilemma starts.

(1) Like most people, I have a canon digital camera with the kit 18-55 mm kits lens. And for my type needs, the 35-80mm lens sounds like a better walk around lens for my needs. And like many others that like wildlife photos, I also have a 70-300 mm EF lens to reach out at distance. Would be nice to have L quality lens, but like many others, there are champagne tastes and beer pocketbooks.

(2) In Indiana, its many months before insect season will start. And therefore as a patient man, my next project is to knock down another such 35-80mm lens cheap, and then take the lens that does the worst job at automatic focusing and do the mod you are talking about.

(3) And now we are talking about the newbie factor as I am totally baffled at your set of instructions. As you, mumble something about removing the front lens decal, what lens decal?, then removing some screws, what screws?, and then removing one, two, or three front lens elements how?. And are these modifications reversible? In short, if I screw up, I only waste my money.

Therefore, can you please please post some step by agonizing step photo's

The 35-80mm is not worth it as a walk-around lens. Even your 18-55 is better. The difference between 55mm and 80mm isn't huge, but the difference between 18mm and 35mm sure is. On the 35-80mm, AF is slow, the aperture range is slow, and the zoom range is unexciting. That's why I didn't feel bad at all about taking apart the 35-80mm. As a cheap 35-80mm zoom, it's average at best, but as a macro lens it's extraordinary value for money.

Now, as for how to remove the front 3 elements:

Take off the lens cap. See that sticker that says "Canon EF Lens 35-80mm"? Take an X-acto knife and get that sticker off of there with some prying. You'll see 3 screws after you remove that sticker. Remove them all, take out the assembly that holds together the front 3 elements, and you're done. It's very, very simple.
 

oogabooga

Diamond Member
Jan 14, 2003
7,806
3
81
I'll be searching CL and Ebay for these now I guess. Darnit, more money to spend on something I didn't need 'till I found out it existed
 

Lemon law

Lifer
Nov 6, 2005
20,984
3
0
996GT2 adds a lot more detail with "Take off the lens cap. See that sticker that says "Canon EF Lens 35-80mm"? Take an X-acto knife and get that sticker off of there with some prying. You'll see 3 screws after you remove that sticker. Remove them all, take out the assembly that holds together the front 3 elements, and you're done. It's very, very simple."

But if possible, 996GT2, can you go into more detail about the 3 front elements, how they are held in place, and what options there are to add back in one of the three front
elements for less extreme macro shots.
 

Lemon law

Lifer
Nov 6, 2005
20,984
3
0
I'll be searching CL and Ebay for these now I guess. Darnit, more money to spend on something I didn't need 'till I found out it existed
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For what its worth, that ef 35-80mm lens is not very common on ebay and I have yet to see it on my nearest city Craigs list.

But still, at any one given time at ebay, there are a dozen or so of them for sale. But still, getting one cheaper than $40.00 shipped is the trick, its took me better than 2 weeks of patient bidding to get it at my price.
 
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