It's probably hard to see all the plumbing from the photos, but it is a dual system built custom by Vengeance. It used to openly vent, but I grew tired of the smell so it was converted over.
That is one area Ron and company have never understood or been taught. As great as they are on everything else they do, one of the best in the Country IMHO, they do not understand this like most tuner shops.
Please share what you have now. Venting is NEVER good.
Wow! I hope you stick around here and don't let some Aholes in the forum get you down. There are few who might claim to know lot more and are threatened by somebody like you who do know.
I am also little jealous that you have found somebody to pay for what you love doing
Getting back to the PCV system, I thought the people who went for the catch can was to avoid re-burning of the oily vapors for whatever the reasons. Isn't there a system which could be designed to do that if they did not care for the law and emission? The advantages of the PCV system that you pointed out are because the oily vapor is extracted out of the engine and not because they are subsequently burnt. May be I am mistaken there?
You are correct on the vapors being burnt, but that is not an issue once you install one of the very few systems out there that actually do stop all the oil and other contaminates that cause detonation and the intake valve coking. The best of both Worlds.
Let's look at the PCV system in general. Most only think it is a pollution control device, and that is where so many shops and DIY people make the error. It is critical to remove all the damaging compounds that enter as blow-by as soon as they enter. They need to be flushed and pulled (evacuated) from the system before they can settle and contaminate the oil (and the sulfuric acid condenses on internal metal parts, especially in the upper portions of the crankcase such as valve covers).
Many have seen these videos, but here they are as there are so few accurate training videos around:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EPIfI9aZHt4
Watch it several times, it is not long and explains the operation and functions.
The absolute best for "off road" use only is a separate vacuum pump system with a vacuum relief valve on the opposite bank of the one you evacuate from. But, to date these are only really practical in racing applications as by a few thousand street miles they need to be rebuilt as the vanes, bearings, shaft and seals will eventually wear and fail:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-7bGshirEKI
A street engine can benefit in all the same ways as this video shows, just venting (as any of those "tanks" or breather do) cost more than just power:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-7bGshirEKI
So, the functions f the PCV system are critical to retain, but only an industrial system like a Racor or Alfa LAval centrifuge type can remove all oil and other compounds and purify the oil engough to return to the crankcase, and they start at $6-8k and go to several hundred thousand. They are also too large to use on a passenger car. So the only can designs to date we have tested that are truly effective. RX (the original), Elite Engineering's E2-X (their newest release), and the Colorado Speeds latest.
Here is an example of how poorly most well know brands actually work:
http://themustangsource.com/forums/f726/jlt-vs-rx-catch-can-results-part-2-a-532449/ So we have found 99% or so of ALL "catchcans" sold are less than 30% effective so they all still allow most of the oil and other compounds to pass right through them even though all containers will catch some, so that is all the owner see's in most cases.
The ones I mentioned all utilize a secondary suction source to continue evacuation when accelerating or at WOT operation as the intake manifold vacuum drops too low to actual evacuate when accelerating. This is due to the valve overlap of the cam profile. The amount of incoming air as far as CFM of flow is greatest, but the spikes of the reversion pulses cancel any usable vacuum inside the IM so each of these utilize checkvalves that will open and close to automatically switch to the strongest suction source, and with a turbo or centrifugal super charger that pressurizes the IM, this is critical. (they all have large "Monster" or Elite "Ultra" 40 oz sizes for big power/boost builds).
So, you can run a external vacuum pump and have it just empty into a "puke tank", or drip on the ground, but with the couple of actually effective systems out there, you can stop the ingestion, keep engine oil clean and engine wear free for the duration as well as meet emissions requirements with one of those. The only issue is they must be emptied and the contents disposed of every 5k miles or so at least (some far sooner like Ford's Ecoboost family of engines with very poor PCV designs from the factory).
Thanks for the props, and yes, there are always a few that don't want this information shared for whatever reason, and I am not an expert in many area's where others are, but with anything automotive engine related, especially PCV systems and crankcase evacuation (any application) I live it. I also learn by joining different forums and seeing what others are doing, actual pictures other techs take that are aware of these issues. The broader the view of real world results and experience, the more accurate a picture for us working on these issues as the lab and test track results are rarely a accurate indication of what the consumer will experience with daily driving.
So, I get valuable info from the forums like this (more from some than others as I am too old to play the "facebook kids" kid of games some choose to play as the hiding behind a keyboard can make most anyone a "expert".
Ask questions, and any here that are automotive techs, share what you are seeing if you are one of the few techs that are aware of this and actually visually inspect intake valves on GDI engines. If you don't already, take time when you can and snake a boroscope down a intake runner or actually have a intake manifold removed, look directly in.
Here is a dyno graph of a 2015 Corvette LT1 with the car left bone stock at 20k miles. A base dyno done to establish current power, and an after showing runs after the valves were manually cleaned as in this video:
You can see the degradation on power over that short time. The owner had not noticed any difference as it is gradual, but after was amazed at the added power back and improved off idle throttle respsonse.
Back with Port injection engines, they constantly sprayed the valves with detergent fuel to keep them clean and cool:
So using top tier fuels, in tank additives would help, and you can inspect any port injection after 100-200k miles and find no deposits at all, then we look at the GDI engines where no fuel ever touches the valves and we can see why all of this is baking onto the backsides of the intake valves (exhaust valves are not effected):
SO this has rendered top tier fuel useless now, and nothing you put in your fuel tank can have any effect.
Ask more questions, and any other auto techs, let's hear from you guy's and take some pictures and share with us.