Castrol GTX and Syntec Blend

[OS]

the kragen weekly ad has a coupon for up to one case of Castrol GTX at 1.29/quart and Castrol Syntec Blend for 1.89/quart.

Normally blends are a rip off but at 1.89 it's cheaper than GTX at most places.

IME Castrol GTX is the dino of choice for imports.

 

[PandaBear]

1.29 / quart is a good price for GTX, I am not sure about Syntec Blend because they usually only put 25% Syntec in the blend ( as are all other blend brand ).

GTX is a good oil as is Penzoil w/ Purebase, GTX usually give you better performance as they have more molybendium (reduce friction) and Penzoil last longer (group 2+ base stock, last 1.5k mile more usually).

 

[GnatGoSplat]

Syntec is not even a true Group IV synthetic to begin with. It's just a Group III dino oil.

 

[overclock]

Originally posted by: GnatGoSplat
Syntec is not even a true Group IV synthetic to begin with. It's just a Group III dino oil.

The best article ever written on Syntec.
Castrol sucks!

 

[rectifire]

Originally posted by: overclock


The best article ever written on Syntec.
Castrol sucks!

??????? What does that link have to do with Castrol Syntec Oil? (Though it is a VERY good tutorial on creating secure passwords. )

 

[jrichrds]

Kragen has Castrol GTX on sale for $0.89-$0.99/qt AR quite often. I picked up 4qt. jugs of Castrol GTX for 69 cents/qt. AR a while back from Kragen. They've done that a few times too.

GTX is a good oil as is Penzoil w/ Purebase, GTX usually give you better performance as they have more molybendium (reduce friction) and Penzoil last longer (group 2+ base stock, last 1.5k mile more usually).

Oil analyses I've seen indicated Pennzoil had more moly than GTX. But yah, I'd say Pennzoil lasts longer as Castrol seems to thin out faster. These two seem to be the way to go for OTC conventional oils if you're a moly fan.

 

[TekDemon]

Originally posted by: OS
the kragen weekly ad has a coupon for up to one case of Castrol GTX at 1.29/quart and Castrol Syntec Blend for 1.89/quart.

Normally blends are a rip off but at 1.89 it's cheaper than GTX at most places.

IME Castrol GTX is the dino of choice for imports.

Dude I looked at your toyota link, and damn you really do need a faster car maxing out your speedo like that, lol! My last car I was too chicken to take it to it's limit but I got it up to about 120 before chickening out once...with a big load of stuff in the back too =)

Of course the car got totaled recently(NOT my fault, I wasn't speeding or anything, got rear ended by a pickup doing an emergency stop to avoid the cars which had collided in front...uggghh)...*sigh* I hadn't even gotten to my first stupid oil change!!!!!!

Anyway though, I *had* been topping off the factory fill with GTX and was going to do an oil change in a couple weeks, but sadly no more =( *sniffle*

 

[TekDemon]

Originally posted by: jrichrds

Oil analyses I've seen indicated Pennzoil had more moly than GTX. But yah, I'd say Pennzoil lasts longer as Castrol seems to thin out faster. These two seem to be the way to go for OTC conventional oils if you're a moly fan.

Wouldn't it be optimal to run a high-moly dino until the seals inside your engine soak em up nicely and soften up, then switch to a pure synthetic and then put in dino again every 3 oil changes or so? That was my plan for my baby until...well you know

 

[oddjob303]

Originally posted by: TekDemon

Originally posted by: OS
the kragen weekly ad has a coupon for up to one case of Castrol GTX at 1.29/quart and Castrol Syntec Blend for 1.89/quart.

Normally blends are a rip off but at 1.89 it's cheaper than GTX at most places.

IME Castrol GTX is the dino of choice for imports.

Dude I looked at your toyota link, and damn you really do need a faster car maxing out your speedo like that, lol! My last car I was too chicken to take it to it's limit but I got it up to about 120 before chickening out once...with a big load of stuff in the back too =)

Of course the car got totaled recently(NOT my fault, I wasn't speeding or anything, got rear ended by a pickup doing an emergency stop to avoid the cars which had collided in front...uggghh)...*sigh* I hadn't even gotten to my first stupid oil change!!!!!!

Anyway though, I *had* been topping off the factory fill with GTX and was going to do an oil change in a couple weeks, but sadly no more =( *sniffle*

Ouch man. I nailed a truck and barely scratched up its bumper and totaled mine.

 

[OS]

Originally posted by: TekDemon

Dude I looked at your toyota link, and damn you really do need a faster car maxing out your speedo like that, lol! My last car I was too chicken to take it to it's limit but I got it up to about 120 before chickening out once...with a big load of stuff in the back too =)

Of course the car got totaled recently(NOT my fault, I wasn't speeding or anything, got rear ended by a pickup doing an emergency stop to avoid the cars which had collided in front...uggghh)...*sigh* I hadn't even gotten to my first stupid oil change!!!!!!

Anyway though, I *had* been topping off the factory fill with GTX and was going to do an oil change in a couple weeks, but sadly no more =( *sniffle*

this one?

My car's computer stops the car from going above ~110. It's not a power limitation.

 

[Chevydriver]

I switched over to mobil-1 on my last oil change. Head its the best way to go (for the money) (just under $19 for a 5qt jug of this at wally world). I heard Royal purple is the best but also very expensive at around $8/quart. I always have taking my vehicles in to pay some place to do an oil change. Normally costed around $20. So I figure for that same $20 I can do it myself (make sure its done right) and go full synthetic. As far as the filter goes, I heard fram is the worst to buy. I'm not dumping $10 on a filter either, so I guess motorcraft (around $3?) is the way to go. My friend uses Castrol GTX and says he has never had a problem.

 

[ElectricLegs]

Heat is the main reason to have a pure synthetic based oil over a blended oil. Unless you have a Turbocharger you'll never get near the breakdown point of a regular oil. Make your own by blending 2qts Mobil1 and top off with regular oil. Any oil that has the CC/CD SAE designation should be fine. For a RWD or other hypoid gear go full Mobil1. It's lighter and offers better lubrication so it'll pay off in MPG. Same with a transmition that uses gear or motor oil.

 

[camlopey]

I started using full synthetic (Mobile1) about 4 oil changes ago in my '98 Camry XLE-V6. The stuff is amazing. I live in Southern Indiana (very hot lately). It's been almost 8K miles since my last oil change. I checked it the other day and it was still clear, didn't drip off the stick, and smells like new oil. Well worth spending the extra 10 bucks or so on.

 

[mrchan]

amsoil is the best synthetic out there. kind of pricey though. about $65-$75 a case.

 

[Braxus]

Don't suppose anyone knows any good deals on 0W-20 oil.

 

[ddawson]

I had my Vette up to 135 once before I modded the thing. Its dam scary once you get past 120. I can't believe someone would take pic doing 110.

At 125 my old Saleen S351R felt like it was going to take off.

Back to the topic GTX is good but I use M1 in my cars. I also use the OEM filter because there usually designed with the engine in mind. I try to stay away from the Fram Oil filter because of the cheap rubber drain back valves.

 

[OS]

Originally posted by: Braxus
Don't suppose anyone knows any good deals on 0W-20 oil.

They have 0w-20 for both types.

 

[XCLAN]

uhhhhhh 110 I am not exactly the most responsible driver i guess.
cuzz at 110 i dont feel like i am speeding at all in my 5th gen maxima...and no i am not bragging, my car is all stock and aint too fast. just has a chip in it. and some cosmetics.

 

[Chevydriver]

So ya thinking that i'ld be wasting my money using mobil-1? The engine is aluminum block 4.0 v6. I just figured the engine would last longer by using this stuff. But then again alumimum don't get that hot does it? I was hoping for a little mpg increase but so far I don't see it. Doing around 17-18 mpg (a/c is on half the time).

 

[ddawson]

When I took the heads of my Corvette the cylinders still had the cross hatching at 50,000 miles. I say M1 is worth it.

When we pulled the covers off my SHO for its valve adjustment we found no wear on the shims that ride on the cam.

Also your aluminum engine used metal sleeves as aluminum it too soft. The crank can be cast or forged, either way its not all aluminum.

 

[oddjob303]

Yeah the guy that i just bought my 98 2.7 quattro a4 from, used only m1 supersyn and when I'm very happy w/ the car. It runs about 25~27mpg and i drive it mostly city. Sad that my 98 civic ex auto was running mostly 23 mpg and 25 when i was doing highway(completely stock). Guess I'll be using supersyn on my baby. Just wish it was $30 for 6 qts.

 

[GnatGoSplat]

Originally posted by: ddawson
When I took the heads of my Corvette the cylinders still had the cross hatching at 50,000 miles. I say M1 is worth it.

When we pulled the covers off my SHO for its valve adjustment we found no wear on the shims that ride on the cam.

Also your aluminum engine used metal sleeves as aluminum it too soft. The crank can be cast or forged, either way its not all aluminum.

I don't doubt that at all, but when I pulled the heads off my 89 Cutlass at 168,000 miles, it also still had the crosshatching. I was pleasantly surprised. I'd been using Castrol GTX dino oil in it since new.
After discovering Castrol Syntec isn't true Group IV synthetic, I made up my mind that Castrol is a bit on the sleazy side so I switched to Wal-mart SuperTech for $4.88/gallon (or 78-cents by the quart). Honestly, I think that cheap SuperTech is every bit as good as Castrol GTX was, if not better.