Thanks for the great feedback. Also, I read the sticky and all comments a couple times now (not sure how I missed it the first time around) and have a few questions:
1) Why is using a patch panel the "right" way? I've had a couple people via Angie's List come out to give estimates and all have agreed (independently) that there is no reason for a patch panel. It's not like I'll be changing often - if ever - that respective wall ports will all be connected to the switch. So why not crimp connection ends to the solid wire cat6 and go right into the switch? I was also told that any point of crimping into another keystone add some signal loss. What pro's are there over the con of some (even if minor) signal loss?
2) So it doesn't matter if I used 568A or 568B as long as I use the same on all ends of connections? I assume if a keystone requires one or the other, than I used that - otherwise I just need to ensure it's the same on all ends?
3) 110 punch - I won't need one after this install but I can tell this is where problems can occur, so is it better to invest in a Klein or Fluke 110 tool or ok to skimp with a TrendNet or Tripp Lite?
4) The comments on not over-tightening zip-tie's or staplers that are too pinching was good to remember as it might distort the physical nature of the cable, etc. I plan on just using some plastic insulated staples from Gardner Bender at either 3/8" or 1/2" instead of normal 5/16" for cat5/6 just so there is some play. I'm assuming that is fine?
5) This was a comment left. If I understand it correctly, avoid running CAT5/6 cables in parallel because of 'alien crosstalk'? If so, how can I ever run a few cables in walls or the attic? At some point when pulling them, they will all be in parallel and very close together, especially if pulling a few cables through studs and down walls. Is this actually an issue?
6) Lastly, there is talk about "Drill bit / Auger with cable eye" - I'm not going through a floor, but rather in a couple rooms where there is no attic and only slap concrete under the floor, I'll be going through quite a few studs. Any tips/tricks to drilling a hole in each stud while also needing to cut out the drywall to accomplish this?
Thanks in advance!
#1 There is absolutely no need of a patch panel in the majority of "home" setups. The only thing it adds is it looks nice. It just becomes another layer to troubleshoot and loose signal strength. If you want one get one, if you don't you aren't losing anything.
#2 Go for 68B, no one uses the 68A except for old/existing networks for compatibility.
#3 Assuming you demand a paunch panel, don't worry about special tool brands you use once in a blue moon. You can do 110 punchdowns with a butter knife or screwdriver, or many other tools if you need to (I've done hundreds of terminals in my past cabling life with nothing but a Leatherman tool). Anyone who tells you you can't hasn't done much work on 110 panels. A special tool just makes it easier when you have large volumes.
My recommendation is to skip the whole patch panel thing in a home, unless you're the type that like to brag about the pretty lights and hidden wiring inside their PC. They are more hassle than they are worth, unless you want something to show your friends (who are only pretending to care). Kinda like I tell my anal PC geek friends, While your busy bragging about your ultra neat telco closet wiring, I've got the girl naked in the bedroom. Basically, no one is gonna give a rat's ass about your cool neatly wired patch panels but you. Not your girlfriend/wife, not your kids, not your friends. They are only gonna give a crap that they can browse their Internet/Facebook. Now if this were a business, someone's gonna care, but your house.. nope... So do what makes "you" happy about it.
#4 A simple cheapo staple gun with > 5/8 staples and good aim work fine. As long as you don't pierce/cut the cabling your fine. Again, don't over complicate things. It's only as hard as YOU make it. Personally, I wouldn't even staple or secure the cable as long as it is laying on something or supported every few feet. Just make the stuff harder to get out if you need to take it out for any reason. Any force that rips apart your cabling snaking through the walls and attic probably destroyed your house and you will have bigger things to worry about.
#5 easy, answer.. Don't sweat the technical details. You are setting up a "home", not a corporate building with hundred of runs. What issues happen with big business numbers aren't gonna have any affect on your 10 drop < 75m cabling. It's when you over-complicate things with patch panels, punch panels and such, you start having more problems with a "home" setups. Why? because they become harder to troubleshoot if you haven't done it before. Patch panels aid troubleshooting for pros when there are so many runs it's impossible to dig out the offending cables. Patch panels are nothing but another failure point for home use.
Crosstalk, paralleling power, etc, etc.. Don't worry about it for your home setup. With a finished home setup, you run your cables (don't even staple yet) and test them by hooking them up (before you do the finishing work). Any cable that doesn't work, just pull it and run another since cable is cheap. Just pull and hang your cable through carefully; don't kink it all up or drag against some ductwork sharp sheetmetal edge or something. Do your stapling and stuff "after" you established a working drop. Then check the drops again after you have stapled/secured the cabling to ensure you didn't cut anything.
If you get that much done, then it's only the terminations you need to worry about, and adding a patch panel onto this just adds needless complexity. Best way to test a drop is attach it to a router/PC and do some file transfers. You don't need special testers and stuff for a home build. It generally either runs at proper speed or not at all. It's not competing with hundreds of other drops and power/phone cabling at the same time where crosstalk and stuff becomes an issue.
#6. A longish 1/2-3/4 spade bit goes through studs just fine and makes a big enough hole for your use. As for cutting drywall holes, either use razor knife, a small keyhole type handsaw, or use a "vibrating" cutter. Drywall isn't exactly hard to cut, it's just hard to cut neatly once it's hung on a wall (ask anyone who has had to repair a hole). Spinning tools like Dremels work, but you will be throwing dust everywhere and drywall dust is nasty.