Clicking noise when clutch is depressed (and I don't mean sad) - Throwout bearing?

[jme5343]

I had my car (91 Toyota MR2, not stock, LSD manual) at the shop getting some work done and they fixed the things it was there for. However, when they had it on the dyno toward the end doing some pulls, the guy in the car said he "heard a noise" and then the engine bogged.

I don't know what he heard or what the car really did, but I do know this: When I went and looked at the car today, we sat in it and started it, things were fine. When he pressed in the clutch pedal, I could hear a clicking or ticking noise from the transmission area. It shifts and drives fine, though I didn't drive it.

They're telling me that I should put in a new clutch - around $1700 for labor and parts, a new pressure plate and full face clutch and billet steel flywheel. He said it was a stage 3, but I didn't recognize the brand name. Klos or something.

Right now I have an ACT 6 puck sprung in there with an aluminum flywheel. Didn't have any issues with it before.

It's a performance shop, but my friend thinks I should check with you guys before dropping that kind of dough on it.

Thanks!

 

[Blieb]

I'm not an expert ... but I heard when the clutch goes you feel slipping when engaged.

I had 2 manuals ... never had to replace a clutch ... one still going with over 175k miles ... the other had 70k when I sold the car. *shrug*

 

[Zenmervolt]

$1,700 for labor and parts for a clutch doesn't sounds that bad to me, but I'm used to cars that show a book time of 24 hours in labor alone.

Seriously though, clicking only when the clutch is disengaged is consistent with a failing throwout bearing. Especially if it's not making noise at other times. And replacing the rest of the clutch components at the same time generally makes sense as the majority of the cost is in the labor, not the parts. A new flywheel may not be strictly necessary, but I'd definitely have the old one at least resurfaced.

ZV

 

[phucheneh]

Even if you don't know for sure what part is causing the noise, there's no question about what has to be done: remove the transmission. There's nothing in the bellhousing that can be serviced with the trans in the car.

The only thing I would do first is to make sure the clutch is disengaging all the way. It could be vaguely possible that the the clutch disc is just barely making contact with the flywheel when the pedal is depressed. Still shouldn't be causing a noise, though. Just doing a nice job of glazing up the disc.

All you have to do is watch the operation of the clutch fork while someone moves the pedal. Maybe remove the clutch fork boot and/or the inspection cover and shine a flashlight in there to confirm complete disengagement.

 

[jme5343]

Thanks gents. FWIW, I had this all apart about 2500 miles ago and all was well. Clutch is a sprung 6 puck, flywheel is aluminum. I don't want to replace all that if it is still okay.

You're right that most of the cost is labor, but another clutch would run me about $500 on top of that.

 

[phucheneh]

Is there any reason you're running [what sounds like] a 'race clutch?'

Also, do all the parts really jive properly? Is there an extra stiff pressure plate with a stock throw-out bearing or something like that?

 

[Zenmervolt]

Is there any reason you're running [what sounds like] a 'race clutch?'

My guess is that it has to do with the fact that the car is "not stock" and an MR2. Most people with modified MR2s aren't talking about neon and a fart can.

ZV

 

[jme5343]

Is there any reason you're running [what sounds like] a 'race clutch?'

Also, do all the parts really jive properly? Is there an extra stiff pressure plate with a stock throw-out bearing or something like that?

They do, it all came with the ACT kit. That being said, I probably should have used a stock TOB, apparently they're superior to the ones provided in the kit. May be my problem.

My guess is that it has to do with the fact that the car is "not stock" and an MR2. Most people with modified MR2s aren't talking about neon and a fart can.

ZV

Thanks ZV, and you are correct. T67 turbo, forged internals, full suspension, AEM engine management system, blah, blah, blah. In other words "huge money pit", lol.

 

[phucheneh]

Holy fucksticks. You have a Toyota 4cyl capable of supporting a T67? You, sir, are my hero.

Has it been dyno'd? Also, when does the turbo really start to spool? I gotta imagine you would want to have the smallest compatible turbine housing you could get.

Anyway, though- I really do strongly recommend you check for proper operation of the clutch hydraulics before tearing into it. If the noise is very minute, it could be something that doesn't absolutely require attention at this point; though it may be a good idea to check it out.

 

[jme5343]

Holy fucksticks. You have a Toyota 4cyl capable of supporting a T67? You, sir, are my hero.

Has it been dyno'd? Also, when does the turbo really start to spool? I gotta imagine you would want to have the smallest compatible turbine housing you could get.

Anyway, though- I really do strongly recommend you check for proper operation of the clutch hydraulics before tearing into it. If the noise is very minute, it could be something that doesn't absolutely require attention at this point; though it may be a good idea to check it out.

LOL
Put down 311 on a dynojet and ran out of fuel, I really need to upgrade the pump, but I'm getting ready for a new job, a move, and other junk. Spools at about 3500rpms, and yessir, it's a smaller housing.

It's built to handle way more

Here's a video for your viewing pleasure. Not me in the car. And we squeaked another 3 hp after I added the comment.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e2IvkLHLn80&feature=g-crec-u

 

[phucheneh]

How much boost? That turbo is pretty enormous for 300hp.

Listening to the whistle obviously isn't the best way to evaluate anything...but that said, it sounds like you're not getting serious spooling until maybe 5k+.

What's the ultimate goal? If it's not 500hp+, I'd say you would really benefit from a smaller turbo. More in the GT30/GT35 range. Not sure what the equivalent T series would be.

I think one of these would be great-
http://www.turbodriven.com/files/pdf/S200SX.pdf

I still haven't begun dialing in the BW setup I put on a 2JZ (S300SX series), but I'm expecting pretty good results from it. It's replacing an old-ass T67, which did over 550hp but still had crazy lag.

T's are just old hat.

 

[jme5343]

How much boost? That turbo is pretty enormous for 300hp.

Listening to the whistle obviously isn't the best way to evaluate anything...but that said, it sounds like you're not getting serious spooling until maybe 5k+.

What's the ultimate goal? If it's not 500hp+, I'd say you would really benefit from a smaller turbo. More in the GT30/GT35 range. Not sure what the equivalent T series would be.

I think one of these would be great-
http://www.turbodriven.com/files/pdf/S200SX.pdf

I still haven't begun dialing in the BW setup I put on a 2JZ (S300SX series), but I'm expecting pretty good results from it. It's replacing an old-ass T67, which did over 550hp but still had crazy lag.

T's are just old hat.

Yep, T's are old. I'm looking for 400ish, but not interested in swapping anything else on there. One, I don't need the expense, but I'm also more of a highway monster guy than a track guy, so it suits my needs. I drove it to the new shop today and she does spool at just a bit after 3500, it's set for 18 lbs right now.

 

[JCH13]

The 3SGTE is a phenomenally strong engine. JLee was at or over 300whp on a stock long-block... :awe:

jme5343 - are you comfortable working on cars? Or is doing the clutch job yourself out of the question?

I assume you didn't replace the throw-out bearing when the new clutch was installed, right? If a mechanic did replace it for you, and it's already failing, I'd ask for a re-do or a reimbursement.

 

[jme5343]

The 3SGTE is a phenomenally strong engine. JLee was at or over 300whp on a stock long-block... :awe:

jme5343 - are you comfortable working on cars? Or is doing the clutch job yourself out of the question?

I assume you didn't replace the throw-out bearing when the new clutch was installed, right? If a mechanic did replace it for you, and it's already failing, I'd ask for a re-do or a reimbursement.

I'm comfortable, I rebuilt the motor in the summer of 11, so I had everything off for that anyway. I didn't replace the TOB when I did it, though. The one that came with the clutch kit was likely installed, and from reading the MR2 boards, the stock one is superior.

However, I'm taking a new job to start the new year, so I'll be away from home 3-4 days a week. I don't think the wife will allow me to spend my few days at home working on the car

I just got a call from the second opinion shop, they're pulling it in to look at it now, so we'll see what the verdict is.

 

[jme5343]

Update: The friction ring attached to the aluminum flywheel had the bolts back out and it was just spinning. Clutch replacement in progress, it was getting worn anyway.