Cold Air Intakes

[exdeath]

Originally posted by: Aikouka

Originally posted by: makken
I think you're going a little too technical.

warmer air = less dense = less (actual) oxygen.
On almost any modern car, the ECU determines how much gasoline actually enters the cylinder. The ECU is programmed to give just enough gas for a perfect burn - ie. all of the oxygen and gasoline is combusted. (actually, I think they're tuned to run a bit on the lean side, but dont' quote me on that) Warmer air would have less oxygen per unit volume, such that the ECU will reduce the amount of gasoline it puts in.

At least that's my reasoning for it.

Yes, you're right, but we're both making the same point, I'm just saying it in an unorthodox way that some people (like the guy who I quoted below) will not understand. The ECU actually contains preprogrammed O2:Fuel Ratios that when the O2 sensor passes the amount of O2 that it finds in the intake, it sends the electric signal to the F.I.'s and if all is timed correctly, we'll get our big bang when the sparks chime .

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.....

Wow, that's one of the funniest things I've heard in a long, long time. And I've heard some whoppers from people who think they know about cars.

Colder air is denser. This makes it slightly more difficult to compress (not enough to make any real-world difference at all though).

The power increase from colder air is due to the increased density. Because the air is denser, it contains more oxygen per given unit volume. More oxygen allows the engine to burn more fuel, which creates more power. This is one of the reasons that cars typically get poorer mileage in the winter. The colder, denser air causes the FI system to compensate for the extra oxygen by injecting more fuel.

ZV

Congratulations for telling me what I already know. Your argument of which one is harder to compress actually depends on the volume being the same, where my point was on the amount of oxygen present being the same, which makes the volume of the colder air lower, because... it's already "compressed" to a degree (the particles being closer together). You essentially said the same thing as me, but I guess it's my fault for not being completely specific in stating volume vs oxygen content. When it comes to engines, yes they do pull in the same amount of volume (via the vacuum created during the intake phase of the piston) regardless of whether the air is hot or cold, so my original comment is only theoretical and doesn't apply to true "engine physics." Also, you forgot to include one comment against me: NA cars typically have higher compression ratios than forced compression.

Personally, I know all about the concepts of using colder air because it allows higher densities. Intercoolers, devices to cool the air that is sent through the intake, typically (well, I've never seen them featured without...) featured after turbochargers, because turbos have that tiny problem of compacting air, but also heating it up.

My fault for not being clear, but your fault for acting like an ass.

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
No.

The intercooler drops the incoming temperature by x degrees. If you reduce the intake temperature by y, it combines with the intercooler's temperature drop to give a total drop of x+y degrees.

Now, will that give a significant difference? No because on a high power engine the 3-5 hp that a CAI can add (best case) will be something like a 1-2% increase, which won't even be enough to feel.

So it's "useless" from a standpoint of getting meaningful performance increase (you'd be better served by simply getting more airflow to the intercooler) but it still provides the same benefit as it does with a naturally aspirated engine.

ZV

You forgot a variable in yer equation there... air temperature being increased by turbocharger compression as you don't find too many intercoolers on cars that don't have forced compression systems.

Originally posted by: MercenaryForHire
I'm going to guess Talon TSI for the former, then when he put a leash on his crank and took it for a nice long walk, he got a 2.4L mid-size, like a Sebring.

Not meant to insult anyone, just taking random guesses for my own amusement.

- M4H

1991 Eagle Talon TSi AWD with a JDM low-mileage evo3 4G63T installed (by me). The engine is still working fine although I don't drive the car. The reason being that the clutch glazed over while driving it once and I replaced it, but my father, who helped me with certain aspects such as technique on putting larger parts in, etc, died before I had a chance to put the Transmission back on. Also, the fact that I still don't know what caused the clutch the glaze over and how other things were going wrong on the car... it was a bit of a downer for me and I somewhat lost interest. Other things being how the tach just died all of a sudden... before it died, it'd just randomly drop to 0 and then resume proper working order. I replaced a leaky cap on the ECU, checked the ignition coil (replaced it actually) and the tach would never work. My dad tried to tell me that I didn't need it, so I told him to try driving it without one. Now, he drove manual cars for about 20 years with no problem. After he tried it, he came back and told me, "Yeah, it'd be nicer to have a tach with that car."

I don't have a Sebring though, I have a 2002 Stratus SE and yes, it is a 2.4L .

The O2 only works in closed loop mode at idle for emissions at stop lights, parking, etc. It's completely ignored in open loop mode under WOT conditions.

 

[exdeath]

Originally posted by: Vic

Originally posted by: Ragnarok2

Originally posted by: Vic

Originally posted by: Ragnarok2

Originally posted by: Fenixgoon

Originally posted by: Ragnarok2
Since they're pretty cheap and and actually increase the HP somewhat I'm thinking about putting in a cold air intake in my chrysler.

The question is, can I use the factory air intake tube and just buy a coupler and filter, or do I have to get a new intake tube as well? Thanks a whole bunch!

what car, OP?

1997 Chrysler Cirrus LXi

Completely ignoring the fact that this is not a performance car, I will answer by saying that there is no reason to buy an aftermarket CAI, as it already has one from the factory. Look at the air filter box, where does the inlet hose on the bottom draw air from?

...

:Q

The whole point of a CAI is to lose the factory filter box and get a cone filter. Sorry to break it to you, but my car doesn't come with a factory CAI.

Trust me, it does. Almost all cars made in the past 15 years have factory cold air intakes. The air inlet draws from a hole in the fender (or behind the headlight), with a reservoir to prevent hydrolock and a silencer for the induction noise. If they're inefficient compared to aftermarket intakes, it's because of smaller diameter hoses or twists and bends in the hoses, and not because of air temperature at the inlet.

Panel filter versus cone filter? What's the difference in area between the 2? I bet it's little to nothing at all. Tell ya what, take that panel filter and roll it into a cone...

Cone filters are usually double sided so there is more surface area. Think of a smaller cone filter inside of a larger one with the ends capped such that air can enter through both.

Take the 12" S&B Powerstack conical filter on my car. If I remember the neck of the opening is something like 3.5". Assume for a moment that the filter is a perfect cylinder that is the same diameter as the opening. That makes the circular side of the filter 2*pi*r (2*3.14*3.5/2) in length or about 11". So just the outside element, if you unroll the cylinder, is 12"x11" of surface area. I don't know of any cars with a 1 square foot panel filter.

Now consider the fact that its not a perfect cylinder but is a tapered cone, and even the small end is of larger diameter than the neck on the open end, so its actually more surface area than I've calculated. Then add whatever surface area the inner cone adds. As you can see that?s a lot of filter area in a rather compact package.

Another reason cone filters are preferred is the lack of need of an air box. In order to use a panel filter of the same surface area you would have to have a large funneled air box consisting of nothing but open space to evenly distribute the intake vacuum over the entire 18" x 18" panel filter. Otherwise without a huge intake 'surge chamber', if you just had the intake hose right next to the filter, it would only make use of a small portion of the filter (i.e.: you?d see a round dirt pattern where the hose was while the corners and edges of the filter would be relatively brand new looking) With a cone filter you can just slap the filter directly to the end of the intake tube and you're done.

 

[amicold]

Originally posted by: BD2003

Originally posted by: Ragnarok2

Originally posted by: thehstrybean
Get the whole kit. K&N is good, but there are others. I'm going to put one on my Jeep Cherokee....

Yeah K&N and AEM are both amazing, but crazy expensive. I think I'll look around the local AutoZone and PepBoys for a cheaper filter.

My friend that I was talking about, installed a cold air into his Dodge Neon(the regular not srt-4), which is a 4 banger by the way if you wanna call it that, and his cold air has helped him out by 5 HP, not to mention better response and MPG.(yes hes been on the dyno)

So I dont see why all the negativity from most of you people.

I put a CAI in a neon too, and the only thing it really did was make it louder. The high end gain was near imperceptible, but the low end loss def was. I went WOT in the rain once, and my CEL blinked...good thing it wasnt total hydrolock.

I also put in an exhaust - same deal...it was just louder.

The only mod that actually had some benefit was a UDP.

5whp is nearly imperceptible. You want more performance, you have a few realistic choices.

1)Step harder on the gas pedal. Unless you go WOT all the time, this will work well.
2)Take out your subs. The reduced weight will give you as much if not more performance than the CAI.
3)Turbocharge
4)New car

Um you didn't notice cause you drive a freaking NEON. Put it on a large(er) v-6 or v-8 you'll notice it.

 

[exdeath]

Not familiar with Chryslers, but this would be an excellent option if that car can fit the popular 3800 engines:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3-8L-380...itemZ7960882464QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

 

[amicold]

Originally posted by: Aikouka

Originally posted by: makken
I think you're going a little too technical.

warmer air = less dense = less (actual) oxygen.
On almost any modern car, the ECU determines how much gasoline actually enters the cylinder. The ECU is programmed to give just enough gas for a perfect burn - ie. all of the oxygen and gasoline is combusted. (actually, I think they're tuned to run a bit on the lean side, but dont' quote me on that) Warmer air would have less oxygen per unit volume, such that the ECU will reduce the amount of gasoline it puts in.

At least that's my reasoning for it.

Yes, you're right, but we're both making the same point, I'm just saying it in an unorthodox way that some people (like the guy who I quoted below) will not understand. The ECU actually contains preprogrammed O2:Fuel Ratios that when the O2 sensor passes the amount of O2 that it finds in the intake, it sends the electric signal to the F.I.'s and if all is timed correctly, we'll get our big bang when the sparks chime .

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.....

Wow, that's one of the funniest things I've heard in a long, long time. And I've heard some whoppers from people who think they know about cars.

Colder air is denser. This makes it slightly more difficult to compress (not enough to make any real-world difference at all though).

The power increase from colder air is due to the increased density. Because the air is denser, it contains more oxygen per given unit volume. More oxygen allows the engine to burn more fuel, which creates more power. This is one of the reasons that cars typically get poorer mileage in the winter. The colder, denser air causes the FI system to compensate for the extra oxygen by injecting more fuel.

ZV

Congratulations for telling me what I already know. Your argument of which one is harder to compress actually depends on the volume being the same, where my point was on the amount of oxygen present being the same, which makes the volume of the colder air lower, because... it's already "compressed" to a degree (the particles being closer together). You essentially said the same thing as me, but I guess it's my fault for not being completely specific in stating volume vs oxygen content. When it comes to engines, yes they do pull in the same amount of volume (via the vacuum created during the intake phase of the piston) regardless of whether the air is hot or cold, so my original comment is only theoretical and doesn't apply to true "engine physics." Also, you forgot to include one comment against me: NA cars typically have higher compression ratios than forced compression.

Personally, I know all about the concepts of using colder air because it allows higher densities. Intercoolers, devices to cool the air that is sent through the intake, typically (well, I've never seen them featured without...) featured after turbochargers, because turbos have that tiny problem of compacting air, but also heating it up.

My fault for not being clear, but your fault for acting like an ass.

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
No.

The intercooler drops the incoming temperature by x degrees. If you reduce the intake temperature by y, it combines with the intercooler's temperature drop to give a total drop of x+y degrees.

Now, will that give a significant difference? No because on a high power engine the 3-5 hp that a CAI can add (best case) will be something like a 1-2% increase, which won't even be enough to feel.

So it's "useless" from a standpoint of getting meaningful performance increase (you'd be better served by simply getting more airflow to the intercooler) but it still provides the same benefit as it does with a naturally aspirated engine.

ZV

You forgot a variable in yer equation there... air temperature being increased by turbocharger compression as you don't find too many intercoolers on cars that don't have forced compression systems.

Originally posted by: MercenaryForHire
I'm going to guess Talon TSI for the former, then when he put a leash on his crank and took it for a nice long walk, he got a 2.4L mid-size, like a Sebring.

Not meant to insult anyone, just taking random guesses for my own amusement.

- M4H

1991 Eagle Talon TSi AWD with a JDM low-mileage evo3 4G63T installed (by me). The engine is still working fine although I don't drive the car. The reason being that the clutch glazed over while driving it once and I replaced it, but my father, who helped me with certain aspects such as technique on putting larger parts in, etc, died before I had a chance to put the Transmission back on. Also, the fact that I still don't know what caused the clutch the glaze over and how other things were going wrong on the car... it was a bit of a downer for me and I somewhat lost interest. Other things being how the tach just died all of a sudden... before it died, it'd just randomly drop to 0 and then resume proper working order. I replaced a leaky cap on the ECU, checked the ignition coil (replaced it actually) and the tach would never work. My dad tried to tell me that I didn't need it, so I told him to try driving it without one. Now, he drove manual cars for about 20 years with no problem. After he tried it, he came back and told me, "Yeah, it'd be nicer to have a tach with that car."

I don't have a Sebring though, I have a 2002 Stratus SE and yes, it is a 2.4L .

Most manual drivers I know drive by sound, not with the tach.

 

[Ragnarok2]

Originally posted by: exdeath
Not familiar with Chryslers, but this would be an excellent option if that car can fit the popular 3800 engines:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3-8L-380...itemZ7960882464QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

Why are these engines so cheap?

 

[exdeath]

Originally posted by: amicold

Originally posted by: BD2003

Originally posted by: Ragnarok2

Originally posted by: thehstrybean
Get the whole kit. K&N is good, but there are others. I'm going to put one on my Jeep Cherokee....

Yeah K&N and AEM are both amazing, but crazy expensive. I think I'll look around the local AutoZone and PepBoys for a cheaper filter.

My friend that I was talking about, installed a cold air into his Dodge Neon(the regular not srt-4), which is a 4 banger by the way if you wanna call it that, and his cold air has helped him out by 5 HP, not to mention better response and MPG.(yes hes been on the dyno)

So I dont see why all the negativity from most of you people.

I put a CAI in a neon too, and the only thing it really did was make it louder. The high end gain was near imperceptible, but the low end loss def was. I went WOT in the rain once, and my CEL blinked...good thing it wasnt total hydrolock.

I also put in an exhaust - same deal...it was just louder.

The only mod that actually had some benefit was a UDP.

5whp is nearly imperceptible. You want more performance, you have a few realistic choices.

1)Step harder on the gas pedal. Unless you go WOT all the time, this will work well.
2)Take out your subs. The reduced weight will give you as much if not more performance than the CAI.
3)Turbocharge
4)New car

Um you didn't notice cause you drive a freaking NEON. Put it on a large(er) v-6 or v-8 you'll notice it.

On a SRT-4 with boost you'll feel it. Some 4 bangers can make power ya know

A Toyota 3S-GTE 2.0L turbo stroked to 2.2L with stock exhaust value train and oversized higher lift/duration intake train the right compressor/turbine can make 500 HP peak and as much as 250-300 ft-lbs torque down low at 2500-3000 RPM. Thats more than most V6's and some V8's come with peak.

For those wondering how, this setup works because it has high flowing high volume intake with a restrictive exhaust which translates to high exhaust port velocity at low RPM which gives the exhaust stream more momentum and allows for early and fast turbine spool. The drawback is your top end is limited to about 400-500 HP where a car with a fully opened air path on both ends and a larger laggier turbo has 150 ft-lbs at 3000 RPM might have 600-700 HP from that same engine at higher RPMs where airflow > *.

A aftermarket intake is a requirement in those circumstances

Myself I prefer a torquier bottom end in a street car, it will get you to the next stop light before someone with more peak horsepower and no bottom end ^_^ Besides someone with no torque and more top end HP is more likely to get speeding tickets because they will try to prolong things and hold it wide open for too long in an effort to make up the difference after you waste them from a stop.

 

[exdeath]

Originally posted by: Ragnarok2

Originally posted by: exdeath
Not familiar with Chryslers, but this would be an excellent option if that car can fit the popular 3800 engines:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3-8L-380...itemZ7960882464QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

Why are these engines so cheap?

Thats priced just about right?

Consider a 5S-FE engine, the workhorse economy engine of the Toyota line, about $500-$900 for a used complete engine minus tranny for a 4 banger.

A 3.1L V6 for a Buick goes for about $600.

The 390 HP supercharged engine alone out of a '03 Cobra goes for about $6,000 to $10,000 depending if ECU or tranny is included.

I wouldn't call ~$4,000 cheap for a factory engine minus tranny, but to answer your question, the 3800 is a very popular engine made in extremely large quantities: it's like the main GM engine for anything that isn't a V8.

From what I know of GM cars (not much) the 3800 and the LS1 are like the only two GM engines worth anything

 

[exdeath]

Originally posted by: Ragnarok2

Originally posted by: exdeath
Not familiar with Chryslers, but this would be an excellent option if that car can fit the popular 3800 engines:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3-8L-380...itemZ7960882464QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

Why are these engines so cheap?

Actually this might be better (esp. if you were being sarcastic

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1998-GM-...emZ230073344029QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

The other ones are brand new crate engines. The mileage is kinda high though. 50k miles or so would be good for a used engine at a good price. Don't know what will fit in your car though.

 

[zerocool84]

well the thing is, it will only make a difference if the STOCK AIRBOX is the RESTRICTION. if the stockairbox is well designed you will not notice a difference on any type of engine be it a 4banger to a v12. the same goes for turbos/superchargers albeit it will make them louder. people mainly get them for noise. IT DOESN'T MATTER WHAT TYPE OF CAR/ENGINE YOU PUT IT ON, IF THE STOCK AIRBOX IS NOT THE RESTRICTION IT WILL NOT HELP!!!!!!!!!

that is why results differ from car to car and year to year



and exdeath you drive an srt-4????

 

[exdeath]

Originally posted by: zerocool84
well the thing is, it will only make a difference if the STOCK AIRBOX is the RESTRICTION. if the stockairbox is well designed you will not notice a difference on any type of engine be it a 4banger to a v12. the same goes for turbos/superchargers albeit it will make them louder. people mainly get them for noise. IT DOESN'T MATTER WHAT TYPE OF CAR/ENGINE YOU PUT IT ON, IF THE STOCK AIRBOX IS NOT THE RESTRICTION IT WILL NOT HELP!!!!!!!!!

that is why results differ from car to car and year to year

and exdeath you drive an srt-4????

Nah I have a '03 Cobra with a Kenne Bell, etc. SRT-4 is a neat car though.

Depends on the circumstances for the noise. A free flowing intake can make LESS noise. The 90mm MAF meter body in my Cobra is actually a intake restriction and and causes a bit of air howling under WOT as the air from the 4" intake is venturi'ed into the MAF housing.

Opening the intake more will reduce the howling. What does make it louder though is that you have less 'stuff' between the throttle and the filter to absorb sound (air box, intake muffler, etc) so engine sound will be more audiable through the intake, esp with valve overlap.

Noise comes from two places, the sound of the air entering and flowing through the intake (wooshing and whistling, etc) and the sound of the engine being heard through the intake system, esp with severe cam profiles.

As for the air box, intake plumbing, etc, it depends on the car. On the Cobra most aftermarket intake systems are just the lower intake in front of the MAF meter. The more expensive intakes that replace the whole intake up to the throttle produce better results, showing that even just the ribbed upper intake pipe in the stock system is poor.

 

[NaOH]

i have an aem one. Got it for 40 bucks. Doesn't do crap compared to new headers.

 

[zerocool84]

the only reason i got my intake was to hear my turbo spool-up. it's as loud as a jet now. and i didnt get a CAI i got an SRI because my intake air gets heated up by my turbo anyways then gets routed through my intercooler so it doesnt matter much but of course there is much debate on that also. another time another thread

 

[BD2003]

Originally posted by: amicold

Originally posted by: BD2003

Originally posted by: Ragnarok2

Originally posted by: thehstrybean
Get the whole kit. K&N is good, but there are others. I'm going to put one on my Jeep Cherokee....

Yeah K&N and AEM are both amazing, but crazy expensive. I think I'll look around the local AutoZone and PepBoys for a cheaper filter.

My friend that I was talking about, installed a cold air into his Dodge Neon(the regular not srt-4), which is a 4 banger by the way if you wanna call it that, and his cold air has helped him out by 5 HP, not to mention better response and MPG.(yes hes been on the dyno)

So I dont see why all the negativity from most of you people.

I put a CAI in a neon too, and the only thing it really did was make it louder. The high end gain was near imperceptible, but the low end loss def was. I went WOT in the rain once, and my CEL blinked...good thing it wasnt total hydrolock.

I also put in an exhaust - same deal...it was just louder.

The only mod that actually had some benefit was a UDP.

5whp is nearly imperceptible. You want more performance, you have a few realistic choices.

1)Step harder on the gas pedal. Unless you go WOT all the time, this will work well.
2)Take out your subs. The reduced weight will give you as much if not more performance than the CAI.
3)Turbocharge
4)New car

Um you didn't notice cause you drive a freaking NEON. Put it on a large(er) v-6 or v-8 you'll notice it.

Um...yeah...I KNOW. Thats the point I was trying to make.

 

[teckmaster]

The cold air intake will come with everything you need to hook it up. Doing a CAI alone though will actually hurt your performance. You will need to do some exhaust
work either through way of headers or cat back exhaust.

 

[fbrdphreak]

Originally posted by: Ragnarok2
It might draw air from farther down, but I still wouldn't consider it a cold air intake completely. The factory tubes apparently suck, the filter box with paper filters is restrictive. If I got better tubing and a K&N filter for the filter box, then I could call it a CAI.

Oh, would you call it a partial-cold-air-intake then? :roll: Whatever makes you feel better skippy...

 

[fbrdphreak]

Originally posted by: nakedfrog

Originally posted by: Ragnarok2
I understand that a CAI won't make my Chrysler sedan gain lots of HP, but hey, it still does something, and it does look nice under the hood, which increases the resell value even if by a little. They're pretty cheap nowadays anyway, so why not get one eh? Isn't it a better idea to just get a CAI rather than go and buy a $20 paper filter for the factory intake?

AFAIK, aftermarket mods like that do the opposite to resale value.

Yep. Anyone with a brain sees aftermarket mod and goes "Uh-oh, teh ric3r owned this car..."

 

[OS]

Originally posted by: fbrdphreak

Originally posted by: nakedfrog

Originally posted by: Ragnarok2
I understand that a CAI won't make my Chrysler sedan gain lots of HP, but hey, it still does something, and it does look nice under the hood, which increases the resell value even if by a little. They're pretty cheap nowadays anyway, so why not get one eh? Isn't it a better idea to just get a CAI rather than go and buy a $20 paper filter for the factory intake?

AFAIK, aftermarket mods like that do the opposite to resale value.

Yep. Anyone with a brain sees aftermarket mod and goes "Uh-oh, teh ric3r owned this car..."

well, anyone with half a brain will keep the stock parts and just put them back when the time comes.

 

[exdeath]

Originally posted by: zerocool84
the only reason i got my intake was to hear my turbo spool-up. it's as loud as a jet now. and i didnt get a CAI i got an SRI because my intake air gets heated up by my turbo anyways then gets routed through my intercooler so it doesnt matter much but of course there is much debate on that also. another time another thread

Having an intercooler doesn't matter... if you are sucking in hot engine air you are making the intercooler's job that much harder. You are more prone to intercooler heat soaking doing that, and hotter intake air is never a good thing on a boosted engine.

 

[Aikouka]

Originally posted by: amicold
Most manual drivers I know drive by sound, not with the tach.

Same here and that's why my father said that it wasn't necessary... until he tried it . It produced a lot more power than he was used to (he was a Volkswagon fan), and most likely would've taken some time to get used to the (estimated) double horsepower that it produced.

 

[MercenaryForHire]

Originally posted by: Aikouka

Originally posted by: amicold
Most manual drivers I know drive by sound, not with the tach.

Same here and that's why my father said that it wasn't necessary... until he tried it . It produced a lot more power than he was used to (he was a Volkswagon fan), and most likely would've taken some time to get used to the (estimated) double horsepower that it produced.

It's not necessary once you're used to the car in question.

I know I sure as hell wouldn't want to go Civic -> Cobra without at least some manner of numerical guideline

- M4H

 

[LS20]

way to let these guys talk you out of it

i had one for my last car , and would have done it again . good sound good feel and easy to clean & reoil

 

[MercenaryForHire]

Originally posted by: LS20
way to let these guys talk you out of it

i had one for my last car , and would have done it again . good sound good feel and easy to clean & reoil

Text

- M4H

 

[alkemyst]

Originally posted by: DivideBYZero
Yeah, th 2.4 i4 produces a LOL-worthy 140hp.

You are an idiot on so many levels.

#1 cylinders don't dictate power directly. However, more cylinders makes for a smoother running engine.

#2 that 140HP will make some cars scream and others be pigs.

#3 a cold air intake's ability depends greatly on the vehicle it will go on and what type it is.

 

[exdeath]

Originally posted by: alkemyst

Originally posted by: DivideBYZero
Yeah, th 2.4 i4 produces a LOL-worthy 140hp.

You are an idiot on so many levels.

#1 cylinders don't dictate power directly. However, more cylinders makes for a smoother running engine.

#2 that 140HP will make some cars scream and others be pigs.

#3 a cold air intake's ability depends greatly on the vehicle it will go on and what type it is.

Smoothness has more to do with the balance of the engine than the number of cylinders(zero sum balancing all net movement leaving only the rotational output of the crank). The straight 6 and the 90 degree V8 are the only two engine designs that can be naturally balanced with careful crankshaft design. Everything else typically requires counter weights and balance shafts to run smoothly.

As for horsepower, 140HP isn't much except for in a bike. Even my 2,800 lb Camry is dog slow with 130 HP, 17 seconds at best, even revving the ****** out of it. What's that 130 HP going to do in a 2,200 lb Civic, 16s at best? Thats still slow as hell any way you look at it. A reasonably fast car to me (ie: definitively faster than a run of the mill family sedan) is at *least* 13s, though I'm more impressed by 9 and 10 second street cars.

In my Camry I pop the clutch at 5g and the car lugs and wants to stall the engine and cause drive train oscillation (ie: jerky bouncy takeoff that doesn't die down until you take your foot off the gas for a few seconds) because the inertia of the car is far too great for that weak little engine to compensate for, and thats even with a heavy steel flywheel as far as I know.

I do the same in my Cobra and the wheels light up, you get pushed back in your seat, and that 3,700lb pig of a car wants to MOVE NOW; the engine clearly over powers the car and has no sign of yielding to inertia. Granted there is a 650 horsepower difference, the Cobra is still 1,000 lbs heavier.

So 140HP isn't really that much, granted the weak ass 2v 260 HP 4.6 V8 isn't much in those pig SN95s either; the LS2 340 HP in the 4,100 lb Chargers, etc. doens't do it for me either. Don't even get me started about 6,000 lb trucks with "a powerful 400 HP V8" When did cars begin to be such pigs?