Computer sometimes won't boot ..

[lazostat]

Intel Core i5-4670K ( no OC )
Asus maximus VI Hero latest bios ( 1603 ) [2014 latest update

]
Evga gtx 770 sc /w acx cooler
XFX Pro Black Edition 750W
SSD Samsung 256GB Pro
Kingston HyperX Beast 8GB (2x4GB) 1600MHz DDR3 KHX16C9T3K2/8X
CoolerMaster Hyper 412 Slim
Dell UltraSharp U2312HM
NZXT PHANTOM 410

Windows 10 pro 64bit


I have this system since summer 2013. 2 years ago i start noticing that sometimes pc wont boot. I thought maybe there was a problem on the start button on pc case and i didnt pay more attention.. The problem ratio was like 1 on 20 boots..

12-6 months ago the problem was bigger. 1 on 10 boots..

But now the problem is huge. The last days the ratio is like 1 on 2 boots! Also i used to close/open the psu 2-10 times till the pc finally boot, but now it takes more!! So i unplug pc for 20+ minutes and the i try again!! Now i am afraid to close it!!

The problem is not only when i cold boot, but when i warm boot also.. Today i closed the computer, i tried to boot it intermediately after, no success.

I tried the PSU paper clip test and i works ( when its on normal mode, not on hybrid ). Also i should note here that i had hybrid mode all these 4 years enabled for lower consumption and maybe less PSU wearing down . Today i switched back to normal mode!

I did a clear cmos from jumper today ( first time i failed cause i didnt read the mobo manual, glad i didnt break the mobo!! ) The only change i did after on bios is that i put <AI OVERCLOCK TUNER> from auto to XMP. I had it on AUTO all these 4 years..

Also sometimes the screen goes black ( like it switches off ) for a second.. Dont know if this info can help.. This started 2,3 months ago.

Maybe there is a short in the system? I am asking this cause sometimes when i press the power on button and i kick the case ( ) the system is booting.. Dont understand..

I Rechecked all the cables..

Some other notes : I have pc connected with tv through hdmi, my psu has a coil whine, i have also 2 HDDs, today i removed from mobo the +/- p led and Hdd led ( i connected them 40 days ago.. maybe this worsen the situation? ), i have also connected the following : mouse, keyboard, speakers, headphones, 1 HDD, A HP scanner fax machine. The light on START and RESET buttons on motherboard is on.

This is a video showing my problem. Its not me. I also read a lot boot problems with this motherboard..

Maybe this problem is connecting somehow?

Yesterday i disabled fast startup from windows 10 power options. I had this setting on all these years.. But problem still exists.

 

[lazostat]

Delete this pls.

 

[UsandThem]

Did you figure out your problem?

 

[BonzaiDuck]

Well, until he returns to post an update, we can't be sure.

The symptom does not necessarily mean there's a problem with the motherboard.

It could be corrupted user information if the system boots to the password entry screen.

It could be a problem with a driver. I would start by uninstalling the AV and firewall program, and other add-ons that appear in the system tray as icons. Or pursue the clean-boot strategy variously described in this or other forums.

You could attempt to uninstall and reinstall drivers.

I had a similar problem with my i7-2700K system. At this point and maybe a year later, I can't remember precisely which program or driver caused the problem. But I fixed it.

 

[UsandThem]

Not sure. He posted over at Tom's as well, but looks like he left there as well before getting advice:

http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-3524991/computer-doesnt-boot.html

I've had a few motherboards over the years that just seemed like they had gremlins in it. They were just very finicky boards, but it took me checking everything else to be able to determine they were the issue.

 

[lazostat]

Did you figure out your problem?

No i dont..

Well, until he returns to post an update, we can't be sure.
It could be corrupted user information if the system boots to the password entry screen.

NO the system doesnt boot at all. I press the power on and nothing happens.

Sometimes if i push the pc, then maybe it will start after some seconds... Without pressing the power on again.. Thats strange.. How its possible a small kick or push to start the computer?

But if this doesnt work, i close the psu, wait some minutes, then i open it again and the computer starts normally.

I dont know if this helps, but i will add another info. When my computer couldnt start with the 1st try and when it finally boots, it stops at bios screen telling the cpu fan running too low. Then i have to go to bios settings and restart again, then it goes normally. Since then i changed the setting to not warning me for low cpu rpm. Maybe someting with the cpu fan? Can this be the problem? Undervoltage?

I asked also on tomshardware and asus forums, nobody helped me..

 

[pandemonium]

What you're describing sounds like the power button switch isn't contacting its nodes to prompt the motherboard to turn on. Check to make sure that little power pin switch is securely connected on the motherboard and those pins aren't bent or anything odd there.

That, or there's a short of a mounting post for the motherboard or elsewhere.

I'd see if you can find another power switch and plug that into the motherboard instead and see if it still does it. Otherwise, you may need to carefully look over the entire case and mounting situation of all PCB and pins to see if there's a stray connection shorting something out.

 

[AlucardX]

Power supply, switch wiring, or grounding issues

 

[aigomorla]

ok just to clarify...

When you say Boot, we assume you imply it goes past post and then windows loading logo is coming in....

So i am assuming you mean your board is failing to power on at all?

So usually typical order of things:

Press power button -> Board powers up and goes though self checks -> board POSTS (you see logo or the press del to go into bios) -> Boot.

If your board is not powering up at all, it could mean bad switch, or contact with motherboard header on that switch.
Depending on the case, im gonna probably say its most likely a switch issue, as i have had many switchs go bad.
And its really easy to diagnose.
If your PC has a reset switch, just swap the reset and power switch header, and see if you have still have issues while using the reset switch as the power switch. IF this fixes your problem, its a switch issue.
If the problem still exists, it could be a grounding issue on your PSU / bad psu, or your board is making contact with the backplate and shorting something out.

If your PC will not POST, that means u have a failed hardware which mostly lies in either the RAM / CPU, since your CPU has a IGP and video card faults will be skipped.

If your PC will not BOOT, its probably a issue with your HDD or SSD or SATA port.

 

[lazostat]

What you're describing sounds like the power button switch isn't contacting its nodes to prompt the motherboard to turn on. Check to make sure that little power pin switch is securely connected on the motherboard and those pins aren't bent or anything odd there.

I dont think this is the problem. I have also a START button inside motherboard. But same problem happen..

ok just to clarify...
So i am assuming you mean your board is failing to power on at all?

YES


If your board is not powering up at all, it could mean bad switch, or contact with motherboard header on that switch.
Depending on the case, im gonna probably say its most likely a switch issue, as i have had many switchs go bad.
And its really easy to diagnose.
If your PC has a reset switch, just swap the reset and power switch header, and see if you have still have issues while using the reset switch as the power switch. IF this fixes your problem, its a switch issue.
If the problem still exists, it could be a grounding issue on your PSU / bad psu, or your board is making contact with the backplate and shorting something out.
.

Is it possible that PSU has issues although it passed the paper clip test? It it better to have it on normal or hybrid mode?

The only "real" solution so far is to close PSU for some minutes. Then it powers on 100% of the time.

But.. I dont understand how sometimes it powers on if i push the case right after i press the switch.. Very strange!

 

[pandemonium]

Do you have another PSU to test with? I'd go that route at this point.

 

[aigomorla]

I dont think this is the problem. I have also a START button inside motherboard. But same problem happen..

then its a ground issue...

it could be anything from board to PSU.

I agree with trying to use another power supply to check to see if that is the main issue.

And yes even tho it passes the paperclip test, it could be failing to boot up because ur not getting proper voltage on the 3.3V line

 

[lazostat]

Btw, when i close PSU for at least 30 minutes, the computer powers on 100% of the time. What can it be?

I dont have a 2nd psu to try.. And i gave a lot of money 3 years ago to but this psu.

 

[UsandThem]

Btw, when i close PSU for at least 30 minutes, the computer powers on 100% of the time. What can it be?

I dont have a 2nd psu to try.. And i gave a lot of money 3 years ago to but this psu.

If you don't have another PSU to use, maybe you can take it to a local PC repair shop. If you don't want to do that, than you can RMA your PSU back to the manufacturer where they will test it, and send a refurbished unit back if it is found to be defective.

Just because you spend a lot on an item, it doesn't mean that it's going to be free of defects.

 

[lazostat]

Thats means i must be without pc for over a month.. No way my friend.. I live in Greece and i must send PSU to America!

 

[UsandThem]

Thats means i must be without pc for over a month.. No way my friend.. I live in Greece and i must send PSU to America!

Well, I don't know what else we can tell you then. If you can't try another unit, take it to a repair shop to diagnose it, or send it back for RMA, there's nothing left to do besides just dealing with the issues.

 

[Ketchup]

The wait is a good indication that the PSU needs to cool down and capacitors lose power before it will turn the computer back on, indicative of a power supply issue. Can you tell if the fan in the power supply is turning when the unit is on?

 

[Burpo]

Coil whine? Change power supply..
If that's not it, then it's likely a failing cap on the motherboard.

 

[Flapdrol1337]

I had a similar problem, system wasn't too happy with cold starts. Not sure what fixed it, might have been the gpu which I replaced or a sata cable that wasn't properly connected.

 

[lazostat]

And what about the kicks? Sometime it powers on if i push the tower.. Strange.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

That Black Edition PSU is branded as EVGA but was made by Seasonic.

I still swear by Seasonics, but I'd obtained a $100 650W unit that died in the first five minutes of operation. It happens.

 

[nerp]

Very likely the PSU.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

I HOPE THE OP HASN'T PURCHASED UNNECESSARY PARTS AT THIS POINT.

I made a thread in "General Hardware" about a boot problem that developed for me and my Skylake system last week. I can only and reliably infer from the METHOD by which I happened to fix it what the problem has been. The SYMPTOMS are EXACTLY SIMILAR to what the OP describes. I thought I might have to RMA some RAM. I thought it might be my Seasonic PRIME Titanium 650W PSU ("flagship"). I thought it could be the motherboard. I removed two PCIE cards -- luckily one of which I had wanted to remove for months. I was lucky when I made the following discovery.

WINDOWS FEATURE/CREATORS UPDATES will mess with your boot record. EVen if done on another system, download Macrium Reflect Free and create a rescue disc. Then attempt to boot from the rescue disk in the problem PC. If it boots to the rescue disc, there is a chance that the solution is right at your fingertips: Select "fix boot problems" and let Macrium rebuild the boot record.

I advise everyone to "fix" or refresh their boot record after a major feature upgrade, even if they don't have a dual-boot system. It's routine. It won't hurt anything. If your problem remains that the system won't even boot an optical disc or USB stick, then maybe it's the hardware.

But I was sure fooled for a while!

 

[XavierMace]

WINDOWS FEATURE/CREATORS UPDATES will mess with your boot record. EVen if done on another system, download Macrium Reflect Free and create a rescue disc. Then attempt to boot from the rescue disk in the problem PC. If it boots to the rescue disc, there is a chance that the solution is right at your fingertips: Select "fix boot problems" and let Macrium rebuild the boot record.

LOL, or perhaps Macrium was the problem? I've done a LOT of Win 10 installs and they're all up to date. I've yet to see one result in a FUBAR'd boot record.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

LOL, or perhaps Macrium was the problem? I've done a LOT of Win 10 installs and they're all up to date. I've yet to see one result in a FUBAR'd boot record.

Then the dual-boot system is partly to blame. In a conspiracy mindset, I could imagine that they want people to throw away their Win 7 installs so they won't have to update them through 2021. Or that they don't favor people who keep the prior version up to date.

Macrium was the only solution to this. The only solution EACH TIME I installed a feature/creators update. I even think Mini-Tool works to resolve it, but it is exclusively a boot-record anomaly, and it occurred on my dual boot system exactly twice after the 1703 and subsequent 1709 Creators updates.

Why would you think that Macrium was the problem? How many of your installs involved dual-boot or multi-boot configurations? And how else do you think I can interpret the results of my troubleshooting and fix? Macrium only fixed the problem -- similar in both Creators Build updates. How do you think Macrium would've caused it? The only things I use Macrium for on a regular basis are my scheduled backups. After I burn the rescue disc from the latest Macrium version, I put it in an envelope and stick it away in a drawer somewhere. In the event of catastrophe, ya see . . . .

ADDENDUM: Without more information, I'd think that the probability of a dual-boot system experiencing corruption through a Win Update installation would be greater -- more likely. A single-boot system -- less likely, but possible. However, OP's symptoms seem almost identical to mine, except that I think he mentioned "moving" the computer case at which time the system booted.

But we've gone over a lot of the possibilities. AigoMorla mentioned "HDD" in that list. It could either be a corrupted boot record, or just physical drive failure.

I will tell you today: I myself have to order another PSU for a machine I'm building in context of RMA'ing the faulty new unit -- a Seagate PRIME Flagship Titanium 650W no less. Here, the symptoms point to a loose connection or a faulty PSU. The system had been flawless until I swapped in the new PSU.

I just say -- try something that may just possibly fix the problem before ordering another piece of hardware.