Computer will not power on after Upgrade

[sze5003]

Just picked up an Asus Z170 Pro Gaming Mobo, i7 6700K, and 16gb EVGA SC ddr4 3200 ram.

I have everything connected, my cpu hyper 212 installed, all power cables plugged in both the 12v and the 24 pin connectors.

I tried 1 stick of ram, tried 2, tried resetting cmos by using the jumpers. Not sure what I am missing.

Using a Corsair 750TX power supply. I connected the P+ LED and P- LED cables, power, and reset switch. What is odd is I have two power switches, not sure why but I used the power switch that is connected to the power led cables. I think the second power switch could be from my case since there is a little lever to increase and decrease fan speed.

The case is a NZXT 410.

Motherboard power light comes on Red and stays red. The mobo lights around the board slowly blink red as if it is breathing. According to Asus the red power light staying on is normal as per the manual.

I press the power button on the case, nothing. I then switch the power switch the opposite direction (writing facing bottom of the case) and I notice that once I flip the PSU switch, my case's power LED button comes on. But I don't remember this happening on the Asrock board. On my Asrock, the case's power led light would remain off until I pressed the power button.

Kind of at a loss here. I can't figure out if it is the board or what. I may try putting my old board in tomorrow and see if it turns on. I spent the whole night trying to figure out what it could be.

 

[WilliamM2]

Your case has two power switches, or the board?

I have a Z170 Pro Gaming, there is definitely only one power switch connection. There are two P-LED connectors to work with either 2 or 3 pin spacing.

Disconnect the power switch to your case, and just short the two pins with a screwdriver. The direction of the power connector does not matter either. It just shorts the pins momentarily.

The fact that your power led is lighting up makes me think you have some wires crossed.

 

[sze5003]

Your case has two power switches, or the board?

I have a Z170 Pro Gaming, there is definitely only one power switch connection. There are two P-LED connectors to work with either 2 or 3 pin spacing.

Disconnect the power switch to your case, and just short the two pins with a screwdriver. The direction of the power connector does not matter either. It just shorts the pins momentarily.

The fact that your power led is lighting up makes me think you have some wires crossed.

I believe the case has two power switches. One is in conjunction with the reset switch. The other is connected to the p led + and minus band.


I disconnected the power switch left the p led + and - connected. Used a screw driver where the power switch is suppose to go. Nothing. Board standby light is solid and still has the breathing led lights around it.

 

[WilliamM2]

Disconnect all the panel connectors, and just short pins 3 and 4 on the top row.

The breathing lights are normal, and will be on all the time, unless you change the setting in the bios to off.

Was the case power led still on?

 

[sze5003]

Disconnect all the panel connectors, and just short pins 3 and 4 on the top row.

The breathing lights are normal, and will be on all the time, unless you change the setting in the bios to off.

Was the case power led still on?

Power led on the case does not come on when I do that. Which means when i had the cable connected with writing towards the bottom of the case meant it came on because it was wrong.

This is what I mean by two power switches.

 

[WilliamM2]

Odd, if the power led was backwards, it won't come on at all.

Is this a new case? You could always try using the reset switch and connection to power it up. They are both just momentary switches. And of course double check that you are using the two correct pins.

Other than that, maybe it's incompatible memory. I never even knew EVGA made memory. I always go with G.Skill, and have never had a compatibility issue with any board.

I assume you tried removing as many components as possible, like the VC.

 

[Sheep221]

Odd, if the power led was backwards, it won't come on at all.

Is this a new case? You could always try using the reset switch and connection to power it up. They are both just momentary switches. And of course double check that you are using the two correct pins.

Other than that, maybe it's incompatible memory. I never even knew EVGA made memory. I always go with G.Skill, and have never had a compatibility issue with any board.

I assume you tried removing as many components as possible, like the VC.

Ram won't prevent your system from powering on, but I do agree that video card can, OP just remove the card and go with IGP to see what happens, as long as your PSU is working(you probably had it already) I assume the board is a toast here.

 

[sze5003]

I saw on some threads that people with this mobo used evga ram. Figured since I could buy it from microcenter with everythung else I could use my new stuff today.

Tried one stick in B2 , one stick in a1. Do you need the monitor connected to VGA port to power it on? I don't think you do. Already removed the video card.

It's the same PSU and case from my Sig.

Edit: After removing the gpu still nothing. Board power light remains on, breathing led lights still function.

 

[WilliamM2]

Is it possible you bent any pins? I would remove CPU and inspect. Either way looks like you need to exchange boards. I suppose it could also be the CPU, but that's really rare.

 

[sze5003]

Is it possible you bent any pins? I would remove CPU and inspect. Either way looks like you need to exchange boards. I suppose it could also be the CPU, but that's really rare.

I don't think there are any bent pins. I used the Asus CPU install tool to place the CPU in the slot.

I'm debating whether to return everything to microcenter this week or keep the CPU and just return the board and ram.

I would hope they have somethjng of the same price I paid for this board. Any recommendations because now I'm afraid to get the same one or even another Asus.

 

[WilliamM2]

I would just get another, I've had no issues with mine, or one I put together for a co-worker.

You could also try to see if it will power up outside the case. You did notice that this board only uses 3 stand offs on the edge towards the back of the case, not 4 like your old Asrock? My previous board (ASrock P67 Pro) had 4 as well, so I had to remove one.

 

[sze5003]

My asrock used 3 as well. I used the same amount of screws when I removed the asrock. Not sure if the old mobo was missing a screw or not but I had no issues.

Even if the CPU was bad the fans should still come on I believe when hitting the power button since the way this case is wired they just connect to a small clip to each other and then that is connected to the Psu.

I'm going to put my old board and processor in tomorrow after work and hope that it works like it used to.

I might even just get 16gb 2666 ddr4 of corsair ram because they had that in the store.

 

[UsandThem]

I don't think there are any bent pins. I used the Asus CPU install tool to place the CPU in the slot.

I'm debating whether to return everything to microcenter this week or keep the CPU and just return the board and ram.

I would hope they have somethjng of the same price I paid for this board. Any recommendations because now I'm afraid to get the same one or even another Asus.

If you don't want to get the same board, you could get that Gigabyte Gaming 5 you mentioned in your other thread.

Although all motherboard companies will have some duds at times. In a report I read, Asus was the only motherboard company last year who was under 2% for their RMA rate, and the year before that Gigabyte had the lowest RMA rate.

I'd just get a replacement Asus board. Hopefully you just got a dud. CPUs are very, very unlikely to have problems when they are new, so statistically the odds would be on the motherboard being the problem.

 

[JohnG86]

I just completed my new i7-6700K build that I bought from Micro Center in MN. I ran into an issue where fans would spin for a few seconds and the diagnostic led showed 55 on my Gigabyte Z710X Gaming 7 motherboard then power off. It was a bad RAM module that caused the issue from the matched pair of Crucial Ballistix Sport 16GB 2 x 8GB DDR4-2400. I got the RAM replaced with Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 16GB 2 x 8GB DDR4-2400 and no issues.

When you press the power button or quickly short the power switch pins, the system should power on if the 24 pin and 8 pin power is connected and the PSU switch is powered on. It does not look like the motherboard you have has a on-board power switch button, use a screwdriver as someone posted to rule out your case power button being an issue.

You should try resetting the CMOS/BIOS with the power supply unplugged as directed in the manual.

 

[sze5003]

If you don't want to get the same board, you could get that Gigabyte Gaming 5 you mentioned in your other thread.

Although all motherboard companies will have some duds at times. In a report I read, Asus was the only motherboard company last year who was under 2% for their RMA rate, and the year before that Gigabyte had the lowest RMA rate.

I'd just get a replacement Asus board. Hopefully you just got a dud. CPUs are very, very unlikely to have problems when they are new, so statistically the odds would be on the motherboard being the problem.

I feel like I should take off from work because I really want to get this fixed. Besides without a desktop now I can't work from home if I want using my laptop just not the same.

I will take the mobo out the case place it on the box it came with and try to power it up like that. What's weird is wouldn't the mobo standby light not come on at all if it was truly dead?

I'm going to try another pro gaming board if they still have them in stock tomorrow. If that one doesn't work then I'll try the gigabyte gaming 5.

I really hope it's not the processor because I got it for $289 brand new. Used the little install tool the board came with too so pretty sure I didn't bend any pins.

Besides, the system should power on even without a CPU and at least kick on fans and such.

I just completed my new i7-6700K build that I bought from Micro Center in MN. I ran into an issue where fans would spin for a few seconds and the diagnostic led showed 55 on my Gigabyte Z710X Gaming 7 motherboard then power off. It was a bad RAM module that caused the issue from the matched pair of Crucial Ballistix Sport 16GB 2 x 8GB DDR4-2400. I got the RAM replaced with Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 16GB 2 x 8GB DDR4-2400 and no issues.

When you press the power button or quickly short the power switch pins, the system should power on if the 24 pin and 8 pin power is connected and the PSU switch is powered on. It does not look like the motherboard you have has a on-board power switch button, use a screwdriver as someone posted to rule out your case power button being an issue.

You should try resetting the CMOS/BIOS with the power supply unplugged as directed in the manual.

I guessed it could be the ram but I came across some YouTube videos of gaming videos from people with the same board and ram that I purchased so it should work.

When I go to return the board, I'll get 16gb ddr4 of a slower speed like 3000 of corsair instead.

I can hear my Psu come on although it's pretty silent. I tried shorting two power switch pins and nothing. Even tried using the reset switch in place of the power switch and still nothing.

I would expect a dead board not to even light up. This isn't my first build so it's kind of annoying. I was surprised years ago when I first built my rig that I got everything right on the first try.

My asrock board came with a speaker so I connected it in hopes it would beep if anything was wrong. Nope.

 

[WilliamM2]

My asrock used 3 as well. I used the same amount of screws when I removed the asrock. Not sure if the old mobo was missing a screw or not but I had no issues.

Just to be clear, here is a pic of both boards. If there is an unused standoff under the board, it could cause issues.

 

[sze5003]

Just to be clear, here is a pic of both boards. If there is an unused standoff under the board, it could cause issues.

Thanks for that. Yea my asrock had all four screws in on the left side and it was working fine. I'll see if I put a fourth screw in the Asus on the left side without realizing. Actually I will just tear the Psu out and try to power up outside the case first.

 

[RLGL]

disconnect drives and remove the video card and ram. should power up and beep codes should be heard also take it out of the case place it on a piece of cardboard

 

[sze5003]

disconnect drives and remove the video card and ram. should power up and beep codes should be heard also take it out of the case place it on a piece of cardboard

I'll take it out the case today after work. Actually I don't think it will beep as it didn't come with a speaker. I could use my asrock board's speaker.

 

[UsandThem]

I will take the mobo out the case place it on the box it came with and try to power it up like that. What's weird is wouldn't the mobo standby light not come on at all if it was truly dead?

I guessed it could be the ram but I came across some YouTube videos of gaming videos from people with the same board and ram that I purchased so it should work.

When I go to return the board, I'll get 16gb ddr4 of a slower speed like 3000 of corsair instead.

I would expect a dead board not to even light up. This isn't my first build so it's kind of annoying. I was surprised years ago when I first built my rig that I got everything right on the first try.

My asrock board came with a speaker so I connected it in hopes it would beep if anything was wrong. Nope.

Probably a good idea picking up the Corsair DDR4 3000 just to cover all bases. You won't notice the difference in speed, and they are a lot more mainstream in memory than EVGA. I'm not anywhere near a Microcenter, so I have no idea of what brands they stock. The issue could be the EVGA ram (speed, timings, or the combo) or it could be you got a dud motherboard. One thing I noticed with that particular Asus board is that on average across the various sites, 20-25% of people reviewing that board give it a 1-star review. That is a little on the high side, and several seemed to have issues with the RAM slots/memory or it not booting. The reviews could be user error or they could be correct, and the board might just be finicky with RAM.

In your other post I recommended to give the EVGA RAM a shot because if there were issues, you could just simply return it locally.

Sometimes builds can go wrong. I had one a few months ago with Gigabyte board that ended up being defective. It would boot, but the PC was unstable and would just shut off without warning. Wierd random errors at different times. I ended up trying the extra components I keep for testing (PSU, stick of RAM, CPU, hard drive). It was very time consuming, but in the end, it was the motherboard. The place I bought it from didn't have anymore of the same board in stock, so I just went Asus instead.

If you build computers long enough, you'll come across one that will test your patience trying to figure out which component is causing the problem.

 

[sze5003]

Probably a good idea picking up the Corsair DDR4 3000 just to cover all bases. You won't notice the difference in speed, and they are a lot more mainstream in memory than EVGA. I'm not anywhere near a Microcenter, so I have no idea of what brands they stock. The issue could be the EVGA ram (speed, timings, or the combo) or it could be you got a dud motherboard. In your other post I recommended to give it a shot because if there were issues, you could just simply return it locally.

Sometimes builds can go wrong. I had one a few months ago with Gigabyte board that ended up being defective. It would boot, but the PC was unstable and would just shut off without warning. Wierd random errors at different times. I ended up trying the extra components I keep for testing (PSU, stick of RAM, CPU, hard drive). It was very time consuming, but in the end, it was the motherboard. The place I bought it from didn't have anymore of the same board in stock, so I just went Asus instead.

If you build computers long enough, you'll come across one that will test your patience trying to figure out which component is causing the problem.

The micro center is 40 min from my house and 20 from my office. I'm going to take in board if I can't get it to spin fans outside the case, along with the ram and ask to exchange the ram and board.

If they don't have anything in terms of replacement I hope they will just refund me for all three items I bought. I'd rather just get stuff from newegg or Amazon or else I'm out $500.

 

[WilliamM2]

Thanks for that. Yea my asrock had all four screws in on the left side and it was working fine. I'll see if I put a fourth screw in the Asus on the left side without realizing. Actually I will just tear the Psu out and try to power up outside the case first.

There is no where to put a fourth screw on the Asus. Do you remember removing a stand-off in your case? If you didn't, it's shorting against the bottom of the board.

Hopefully no permanent damage.

 

[WilliamM2]

One thing I noticed with that particular Asus board is that on average across the various sites, 20-25% of people reviewing that board give it a 1-star review. That is a little on the high side, and several seemed to have issues with the RAM slots/memory or it not booting. The reviews could be user error or they could be correct, and the board might just be finicky with RAM.

I wonder how many of the DOA's are from the standoff issue I pictured above. This is the first full ATX board I have ever had that did not use 4 stand offs on the back (left) side. I wonder how many don't catch that? I've also seen many cheaper cases where the stand offs are not removable, but formed or pressed into the case.

 

[sze5003]

I wonder how many of the DOA's are from the standoff issue I pictured above. This is the first full ATX board I have ever had that did not use 4 stand offs on the back (left) side. I wonder how many don't catch that? I've also seen many cheaper cases where the stand offs are not removable, but formed or pressed into the case.

Now that I think back on last night, right, there weren't 4 screws on the left. I remember putting one top left corner, one in middle left by the ports, and one on the bottom left. I will check when I get home.

My asrock extreme 3 gen 3 has the same number of screws. The stand offs fit the Asus board pretty much just like the asrock so I just screwed it in where there were stand offs matching the holes.

Man if this thing starts the CPU fan spinning once I remove it out the case I'll be very happy, yet I still am kind of doubtful.

 

[WilliamM2]

Now that I think back on last night, right, there weren't 4 screws on the left. I remember putting one top left corner, one in middle left by the ports, and one on the bottom left. I will check when I get home.

My asrock extreme 3 gen 3 has the same number of screws. The stand offs fit the Asus board pretty much just like the asrock so I just screwed it in where there were stand offs matching the holes.

Man if this thing starts the CPU fan spinning once I remove it out the case I'll be very happy, yet I still am kind of doubtful.

That is a picture of the extreme 3 above. It clearly has 4 screw holes. But like I said, it's the stand off, not the screw that would cause an issue. So if you were missing the screw on the Asrock, it would work fine, but if the stand off is still in the case, it will short the back of the Asus.