Custom work bench help

[polarmystery]

I'm trying to build a home lab bench for my electronic equipment but I'll be honest in saying I know nothing about what type of material I need besides the wood and some screws. All of the mounting hardware, and what to consider when joining the pieces are a little bit of a mystery to me.

Here is a crude drawing of what I want to create. I already have an ESD mat (hence the square on the table), and the dimensions of the table. I was planning on going down to Lowe's and having them pre-cut the wood so I can assemble it in my apartment. It's not going to be a very large desk, but it will do the job. I only have a drill and a hammer as far as tools go, as my apartment isn't that huge and I can't exactly do my own woodwork inside.

Do you guys have any recommendations as to what types of wood, durability, loading, screws to use (or bolts?), or other considerations? Note that the drawing is missing a few dimensions, but that is okay because it should be fairly square.

I put the wood sizes that I thought would work and the plank sizes that I need from the store on the right side.

The scopes and the power supplies that will go on it are fairly light, but it still needs to hold up to I'd say 100-150 lbs or so.

(Typo: ESD mat is 2.5' x 4', not 2.5' x 6' as shown in the picture)

 

[rudeguy]

You want a shelf 36" above the work area with a light. It should be able to hold 100 pounds.

Don't forget to plan on some type of top for the bench. I went with resin but others prefer a sheet of mdf. Also plan cable management in advance. It's going to be the number one thing to slow you down and frustrate you while working.

 

[Humpy]

It doesn't look very custom?

It looks just like any of the thousands of workbenches or tables you can purchase complete.

 

[QTPie]

You can just buy some 2'x4' for the frame, and 3/4" or 1" plywood for the top but the plywood comes in sheet of 8'x4'. Then you can just use wood screws and brackets to put them together. Since you don't have miter saw, table saw or even circular saw, I suggest that you buy the bench either a cheap one from Harbor Freight or used professional one.

http://www.harborfreight.com/multipurpose-workbench-with-light-60723.html

You need to ground the ESD mat which you can run the wire from the ESD mat ground clip to ground pin on the wall electrical socket.

 

[unokitty]

I'm trying to build a home lab bench for my electronic equipment...

Don't have any specific construction suggestions.

Though, I thought you might want to check out some of the workbenches available from Harbor Freight.

While you could probably build yourself a better one, add a 25% off coupon and Harbor Freight might look like a quick and economical solution.

Best of luck,
Uno

 

[Carson Dyle]

How is your 72" wide ESD mat going to fit on a 62" wide top?

Consider the overall height carefully. If you're going to be using a standard office chair, I think 36" may be a bit high.

 

[rudeguy]

How is your 72" wide ESD mat going to fit on a 62" wide top?

Consider the overall height carefully. If you're going to be using a standard office chair, I think 36" may be a bit high.

36" is fine with a standard chair. 42" is best for soldering if you plan to stand while doing it.

 

[Carson Dyle]

36" is fine with a standard chair.

It wouldn't be for me. I'm sitting at a desk right now that's 29" high. 36" would be almost shoulder-level.

 

[rudeguy]

It wouldn't be for me. I'm sitting at a desk right now that's 29" high. 36" would be almost shoulder-level.

I'm sure you'll grow once you hit puberty.

 

[lxskllr]

I'd go tall, and use a drafting stool. That way it's good for standing and sitting. I hate bending over short desks.

 

[Childs]

If you're going to be in an apartment why not just get a folding table and put your mat on top? The cheap plastic top ones are like $50 at Lowes or Home Depot, and usually they hold a couple hundred pounds in the center, and double if its evenly distributed. The sturdier laminate top ones are under $100, than they can hold usually around 1000lbs. I used to use them as desks back in the day, and I remember have 3 20" CRTs on it no problem.

Plus, when you move you can just fold it up and take it with you.

 

[polarmystery]

It doesn't look very custom?

It looks just like any of the thousands of workbenches or tables you can purchase complete.

I looked at this option, and building my own was still a lot cheaper, and I have limited space. Additionally, I saw a desk that someone built that looked exactly like this and I stole the design sort of...

How is your 72" wide ESD mat going to fit on a 62" wide top?

Consider the overall height carefully. If you're going to be using a standard office chair, I think 36" may be a bit high.

There is a typo in the graphic as the mat is actually 5' not 6' wide (as noted by the 60" length).

If you're going to be in an apartment why not just get a folding table and put your mat on top? The cheap plastic top ones are like $50 at Lowes or Home Depot, and usually they hold a couple hundred pounds in the center, and double if its evenly distributed. The sturdier laminate top ones are under $100, than they can hold usually around 1000lbs. I used to use them as desks back in the day, and I remember have 3 20" CRTs on it no problem.

Plus, when you move you can just fold it up and take it with you.

This is still an option too. The wood is so cheap (I think I priced around $60 for all the wood I needed including screws) that I figured it'd be a neat weekend project.

You want a shelf 36" above the work area with a light. It should be able to hold 100 pounds.

Don't forget to plan on some type of top for the bench. I went with resin but others prefer a sheet of mdf. Also plan cable management in advance. It's going to be the number one thing to slow you down and frustrate you while working.

Do you mean a sheet of MDF on top of whatever wood I'd be using for the table?

 

[rudeguy]

I looked at this option, and building my own was still a lot cheaper, and I have limited space. Additionally, I saw a desk that someone built that looked exactly like this and I stole the design sort of...



There is a typo in the graphic as the mat is actually 5' not 6' wide (as noted by the 60" length).



This is still an option too. The wood is so cheap (I think I priced around $60 for all the wood I needed including screws) that I figured it'd be a neat weekend project.



Do you mean a sheet of MDF on top of whatever wood I'd be using for the table?

Yes. You are going to spill, burn, dent, ding and mess it up. Resin doesn't have those issues but its more expensive. If you are using wood, have an option for changing the top layer.

 

[Childs]

This is obviously more than you want to spend, but maybe you can use these as a template for what you want to build:

http://www.benchdepot.com/en/

If I didn't live in an apartment or had an extra room I would probably get one. You can buy the tops separately, so you could get a phenolic resin top and build the support.

http://www.benchdepot.com/en/compon...-epoxy-resin-top-industrial-work-benches.html

 

[darrontrask]

http://www.harborfreight.com/multipurpose-workbench-with-light-60723.html

For the money, this is a great bench. Just put one of these in my shed and do a lot of work on it. Sturdy if you follow the instructions to a "T".

 

[Dirigible]

I was planning on going down to Lowe's and having them pre-cut the wood

They won't cut wood with anything close to precision. Don't rely on their cuts to build something.

 

[pontifex]

what about something like this? you just provide the wood.

http://www.amazon.com/2x4basics-9016...rds=2x4+basics

 

[Red Squirrel]

Consider adding power outlets on it too, easy accessible ones for plugging something real quick, and perhaps some at the bottom somewhere for plugging stuff that just stays there all the time.

 

[polarmystery]

what about something like this? you just provide the wood.

http://www.amazon.com/2x4basics-9016...rds=2x4+basics

That's not a bad idea!

Consider adding power outlets on it too, easy accessible ones for plugging something real quick, and perhaps some at the bottom somewhere for plugging stuff that just stays there all the time.

That's what the wood planks are for at the back (those thin sheets). I was going to mount a power strip to them for the bench stuff.

 

[phucheneh]

It's certainly not hard to build a frame out of 2x4's. For parts that need to be the same length (like the legs), cut each successive piece using the previously cut one as your measuring device. Secure them together with ~3-3.5" course thread screws, preferably with square or torx heads instead of phillips. Pre-drill your holes. Maybe add some angle brackets for extra strength.

The top is going to be the more difficult part, just 'cause a decent, level, durable surface isn't as easy to get as you might think. 3/4" MDF is a good option, but it needs protection- namely around the edges, which like to get all ragged and crumbly. Some suitable solid wood trim (or the plastic stuff) plus some liquid nails would probably do the job.

Avoid the temptation to build the top out of multiple smaller planks. If the crevices between the boards don't annoy you, the eventual warpage surely will.

 

[EliteRetard]

*snip* 3/4" MDF is a good option, but it needs protection- namely around the edges, which like to get all ragged and crumbly. Some suitable solid wood trim (or the plastic stuff) plus some liquid nails would probably do the job.
*snip*

Along with the other suggestion for a replaceable top this is a good trick to use. You trim a good thick sturdy bottom board with an even wider lip that sticks up a bit. You then place a thinner cheaper piece on top as the replaceable bit. Have it so it fits flush (or just a hair higher) than the trim pieces. You can split the back trim piece into two parts with a space between them like a channel for cords to go and give you a place to get a hold of the replaceable board to pull it up/out.

 

[phucheneh]

Along with the other suggestion for a replaceable top this is a good trick to use. You trim a good thick sturdy bottom board with an even wider lip that sticks up a bit. You then place a thinner cheaper piece on top as the replaceable bit. Have it so it fits flush (or just a hair higher) than the trim pieces. You can split the back trim piece into two parts with a space between them like a channel for cords to go and give you a place to get a hold of the replaceable board to pull it up/out.

That would work nicely. Then you don't really have to worry about sealing the MDF or constantly developing little divots and gouges and stuff. Hell, I'm pretty freaking lazy, so a wooden workbench would also end up full of over-drilled holes and stuff like that, too.

The top piece could just be very lightweight, cheap 1/8" pressboard. Or whatever it's supposed to be called...I'm thinking of the stuff that is uniform and smooth like MDF, but much lighter weight. Like what you'd nail to the back of an Ikea cabinet.

 

[dave_the_nerd]

That would work nicely. Then you don't really have to worry about sealing the MDF or constantly developing little divots and gouges and stuff. Hell, I'm pretty freaking lazy, so a wooden workbench would also end up full of over-drilled holes and stuff like that, too.

The top piece could just be very lightweight, cheap 1/8" pressboard. Or whatever it's supposed to be called...I'm thinking of the stuff that is uniform and smooth like MDF, but much lighter weight. Like what you'd nail to the back of an Ikea cabinet.

Hardboard.

 

[EliteRetard]

That would work nicely. Then you don't really have to worry about sealing the MDF or constantly developing little divots and gouges and stuff. Hell, I'm pretty freaking lazy, so a wooden workbench would also end up full of over-drilled holes and stuff like that, too.

The top piece could just be very lightweight, cheap 1/8" pressboard. Or whatever it's supposed to be called...I'm thinking of the stuff that is uniform and smooth like MDF, but much lighter weight. Like what you'd nail to the back of an Ikea cabinet.

That might be a bit to lightweight lol.

You can get some 1/4" concrete impregnated backer board (usually used for tile) at 3x5 foot (36x60 inch). I've not actually used it for this purpose myself, and unsure how well it would actually hold up...but I've worked with it for it's actual application and the stuff seems rather sturdy.

Something like this:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_11640-34299-469333023_0__

.

 

[QTPie]

... I only have a drill and a hammer as far as tools go, as my apartment isn't that huge and I can't exactly do my own woodwork inside.
...

I've just realized that we've been wasting our time ... What can he build with a drill and hammer? They're assembly tools...