[DEAD] Celeron 633 $17 @ Directron, free S/H

[GregANDTCH]

I haven't looked into this since tearing apart a laptop with an MII, but I beleive that particular series of chips had more than just the CPU core built in (i.e. sound and vid), and weren't compatible with standard CPUs.

I believe you're thinking of the "Cyrix Media GX" chip. It was built onto the mb & had integrated sound & video.

The MII's were socket 7 or super socket 7.

 

[Dran]

Originally posted by: GregANDTCH

I haven't looked into this since tearing apart a laptop with an MII, but I beleive that particular series of chips had more than just the CPU core built in (i.e. sound and vid), and weren't compatible with standard CPUs.

I believe you're thinking of the "Cyrix Media GX" chip. It was built onto the mb & had integrated sound & video.

The MII's were socket 7 or super socket 7.

Bingo! Thanks for the clarification and sorry for the confusion.

 

[Riprorin]

I'm in for one. Will replace the 300A@450 on my daugter's machine.

I'm running a 633@950 myslef on a old Abit BX6 board.

Thinking about upgrading my 633 to a 1.4 Tualtin.

Any sage advice on this upgrade?

 

[mindless1]

Originally posted by: Riprorin
I'm in for one. Will replace the 300A@450 on my daugter's machine.

I'm running a 633@950 myslef on a old Abit BX6 board.

Thinking about upgrading my 633 to a 1.4 Tualtin.

Any sage advice on this upgrade?

There's lots of related info at the
lunchbox.

 

[Z80]

I upgraded two of my old Abit motherboards (bx6 r2 and vt6x4) with 900Mhz Celerons and overclocked them to 1.12Ghz and 1.2Ghz no problem. As long as you have 133Mhz RAM your good to go!

 

[kctopitz]

anyone know some other sources for a decent slotket? the startech.com slotket mentioned in this thread has a 1-2 shipping time at buy.com and everywhere else. searching on "slotket" on pricewatch only shows the superslocket III which i've read iffy things about.

the only alternative i've found is at computrade@liquidationetc.com: http://liquidationetc.safeshopper.com/27/15508.htm?76

i found that one on pricewatch when searching on the Asus 370, and while it says it's made by Asus on pricewatch there is no mention of Asus on the link above. it does say it's jumperable though.

 

[Alessandro]

Hey, I was wondering if the FC-PGA would fit in all socket 370 mobos, even one designed for PPGA only. I'm looking at an Abit BM6 and everyone seems to be having success with that family of mobos, but it is designed only for PPGA up to 433 mhz.

 

[mindless1]

Alessandro,
I'm not sure if it might work without any modifications, but I suspect that you'd need to remove one pin (break it off of CPU, pull out of socket, or insulate that pin) and solder (the backside of the motherboard) or jumper (wire under CPu) two other pins. Here's a guide following the direction given at Tom's Hardware a few years ago, is part of an article there but I forget the specifics, how to find it. Regardless, the picture is all that's needed. I don't guarantee it'd work after you did that mod, but the odds are pretty good, it has worked for me in the past. If you broke that pin off the CPU it would still work in any motherboard it would've worked in with the pin, supportive motherboards don't connect that pin at all.

 

[jjmIII]

slocket?

I'm gonna grab this chip, for this board(ca61). Hoping to hit 100bus.

 

[Riprorin]

Originally posted by: kctopitz
anyone know some other sources for a decent slotket? the startech.com slotket mentioned in this thread has a 1-2 shipping time at buy.com and everywhere else. searching on "slotket" on pricewatch only shows the superslocket III which i've read iffy things about.

the only alternative i've found is at computrade@liquidationetc.com: http://liquidationetc.safeshopper.com/27/15508.htm?76

i found that one on pricewatch when searching on the Asus 370, and while it says it's made by Asus on pricewatch there is no mention of Asus on the link above. it does say it's jumperable though.

Computer Geeks has one for $7.99. Don't know if it's any good though.

 

[GeneValgene]

dang...

i got the processor in the mail today, but i can't get it to post! maybe someone here knows what i'm doing wrong.

the mobo i have is an asus p2b, which has the 440BX chip set. my old processor is a celeron 366 that i hook up through a socket370 to slot 1 converter.

but when i hook in the celeron 633 through the same converter, it doesn't post. is there something wrong wiht my setup? shouldn't all 440bx boards handle coppermine processors? or do i need a special converter? thanks in advance...

 

[mindless1]

GeneValgene,
Edit: There are four things I would try, in this order:

0) Clear cmos
1) Update bios
2) Set slotket voltage to 1.8V, IF your board can't go lower than 1.8V.
3) If slotket is old PPGA-only type, you'll need to mod it as per my last post, using this guide. Previously I also linked to a pic showing how to raise the voltage on the sloket to 1.8V if you need do that and your slotket doesn't have the voltage jumpers. That pic is only applicable if the default voltage of the CPU is 1.7V.

 

[GeneValgene]

Originally posted by: mindless1
GeneValgene,
There are three things I would try, in this order:

1) Update bios
2) Set slotket voltage to 1.8V, IF your board can't go lower than 1.8V.
3) If slotket is old PPGA-only type, you'll need to mod it as per my last post, using this guide. Previously I also linked to a pic showing how to raise the voltage on the sloket to 1.8V if you need do that and your slotket doesn't have the voltage jumpers. That pic is only applicable if the default voltage of the CPU is 1.7V.

thanks for the response mindless1.
i definitely have the latest bios version, but it might be because my sloket is the old PPGA type. i am not so good with soldering, so i'm thinking i might just buy a newer slotket. hopefully it will work

 

[MustangSVT]

well it works.. but it's not going 100mhz at the moment..

im running a burn in program @ 633.

its on BH6 that originally has another 633@ 950 with 1.75v.

but i guess this cpu is worse?

it says its from CostaRica(new) where the old cpu is from malaysia.

oh well...

 

[AllPurposeNothing]

mindless1,

Got my CPU today.

It's an SL3VS. According to the Intel Spec. Finder, this chip has cB0 stepping, and runs at a core voltage of 1.65 v.

Before snapping the BSEL0 pin on this processor, is there anything I would need to take into consideration since it is cB0 stepping and runs at a voltage .5 less than the 1.7 you mentioned before? Would the voltage need to be modded, or would it likely run sufficiently at its default voltage?

As always, any help is appreciated.

Thanks,

Stuart

 

[mindless1]

AllPurposeNothing,
I didn't get a chance to try o'c mine to 950 @ an undervolted 1.65V setting, so I couldn't be sure but suspect that your CPU will be near it's upper limit at 950MHz and won't do it at 1.65V. That means it may not even be able to do 950, or might need a larger voltage increase, like up to around 1.8-1.85. That's just a guess though, certainly there were cB0 celeries that did 950Mhz alright but based on the stepping you'll have a harder time o'c it than the rest of us. The funny thing is that you might actually have an easier time of o'c your old CPU to 850MHz, as the "average" ceiling for a cB0 core, IIRC, was in the lower 9xx MHz.

Since you're dealing with two CPUs now, each with differing voltages, I'll link to a screenshot of Intel's datasheet, showing the VID (voltage IDentification) pins. My "best guess" for what you'd need to do is break-off the VID2 pin on either CPU, then which further mod is needed depends on which CPU you wanted to try. Unfortunately, breaking off the VID2 is a step towards getting 1.85V, but prevents your later trying any voltage higher than 1.85V, at least those in the range a Coppermine can tolerate. You wouldn't be missing out on much though, anything over 1.90V is too high for a Coppermine, IMHO. Then you'd need connect VID3 to either a "live" (having a "0" in the linked chart) VID1 or VID0 pin, or the VSS pin (all shown on the pics I linked to previously).

I am reluctant to advise what you should do since both CPUs might be able to do 950MHz, or only one, or neither. I do think your old CPU has a better chance of hitting 100MHz FSB, at around 1.85V, but it's more of a gamble because of the cB0 stepping. It should be be helpful to you if you knew someone with a board having FSB and voltage settings user-adjustable, so you could see what those CPUs are capable of before permanently modifying them.

 

[AllPurposeNothing]

Before voltage modding, is there any danger to the cpu or chip at just breaking the BSEL0 pin and giving it a go? I'd hate to do any unnecessary modifications if not needed.

 

[mindless1]

Breaking off the BSEL0 pin poses no danger at all, the result is the same as if you had a Celeron 950 except possibly the lower voltage.

Just keep in mind that once you break off that pin, it won't run at 66MHz anymore unless you have a motherboard or slotket you can manually set to 66MHz FSB. In other words, if it can't run at 100MHz FSB, you installed it into a motherboard with BIOS soft-menu overclocking/FSB settings instead of jumpers for FSB, it won't post that first time because the board is detecting it's a 100MHz FSB CPU. On the other hand, with such boards it is sometimes possible to install another CPU, manually set the FSB to 66MHz, save the settings, then turn off the system and install the CPU. This would be a bad situation to be in though, needing a second CPU if you even needed to clear the CMOS or the battery dies, and can vary based on the manufacturer's BIOS feature, setup. You'd have to check the board to see what actually applies in specific situations, specific boards, especially OEM boards.

If you can solder, there'd also be the option of soldering the socket to regain the 66MHz setting, by simply connecting the BSEL0 and BSEL1 socket pins on the back of the board, though it's a PITA to pull a board from an already-working system.

I doubt it'll even POST though, the cB0 CPUs I had in the past needed at least 1.75V to go >800MHz.

 

[AllPurposeNothing]

But in the worse case scenario, I can just put in my 66 mhz 566 chip and run with that. Correct??

 

[mindless1]

Yes, installing the new CPU with the BSEL0 pin gone will not hurt the motherboard, in theory you can swap the two CPUs back and forth as often as you like with no problems except slight wear on the socket's heatsink clip retention tabs. However, in practice, some boards need the CMOS reset after a different CPU is installed, but it's more likley that won't be necessary. I still think the odds are better to o'c the original CPU though, since they're both cB0 stepping but the original will have a lower clockspeed on a 100MHz FSB, it's more likely to succeed. I wonder where Directron came up with an old cB0 stepping CPU anyway, those haven't been made in years, while the newer ones are still made in very limited quantities.

 

[unclebud]

this is some good info/discussion! thanks for posting!

 

[AllPurposeNothing]

mindless1-

Pulled the pin, placed the 633 in the socket and....nada.

System seemed to get power but not even the monitor received any response from the system. Drives ran for about 15 secs. and then it just hung. Any ideas what this would indicate??

I have put the unmodified 566 back in the computer and now it is at least running.

I don't think I really want to mess with voltage mods and the like and end up destroying the socket. Instead, I'll just pick up a 1.1 celey in a month or so and hope it runs 100 mhz at default on the board. I'll just consider this cpu a lesson learned.

 

[mindless1]

Assumming the video card, memory, etc, are still well-seated, undisturbed from the CPU & heatsink installation, the "no video" response from the system is simply the inability to POST.

Three possibilities are most likely (again, failing some other problem unrelated to the CPU or motherboard). Either the motherboard's BIOS isn't accepting a Celeron 950, meaning a Celeron 1.1 might not work either, or one of the more likely problems: either the CPU isn't physically capable of 950MHz, or most likely, it needs significantly higher than 1.65V to hit 950MHz. My best guess is that it needs 1.85V IF capable of 950MHz at all.

Increasing the CPU voltage doesn't necessarily require doing anything damaging to the socket, the mod can be done entirely to the CPU. That being a 1.65V CPU, we can consult the VID chart and see what needs changed... One pin needs removed and two pins need a tiny piece of wire wrapped around them before inserting the CPU in the socket, as shown here. The wire doesn't need be soldered, just tight against the pins and thin enough that it doesn't make the CPU sit TOO far up out of the socket. It may also be necessary to hold down that corner of the CPU while flipping the socket lever, to help get the CPU as level as possible to help get the best heatsink-CPU interface.

 

[AllPurposeNothing]

Okay...I"ll bite. I'll give the voltage mod a shot tonight, but as always, more questions:

1. What kind of wire is recommended for such a mod? Obvously something is needed that will hold with a twist.

2. When pulling the BSEL0 pin, the VCC pin at AK34 bent some. In restraightening it, it feels somewhat loose (doesn't feel as sturdily connected to the chip). Does it make a difference if the pin is lose on the chip, or is it just sitting in the correct socket sufficient for it to do its job? If not, is there a workaround or way to repair the lose pin? It seems as if it might be next to impossible to solder it back on tightly without connecting it to other pins. I'm considering that this might be where my problem was as well

 

[mindless1]

1) The thinnest wire possible/available, solid (not muti-strand) bare wire... Magnet wire from a transformer is what I've used, when you heat it with a flame the enamel coating burns, can be wiped off, leaving the bare wire. I couldn't even guess what else you might have lying around that has high-gauge (thin) solid wire, If you just can't find any, and are in continental US, PM me your address and I'll mail you a piece of magnet wire.

2) All the VCC pins are the same, that is, there are many used to ensure adequate path of power to the CPU, more than actually needed. You could do without it, break it off and the CPU should still work fine, but I'd just leave it alone. So long as it doesn't look like it would fall off on it's own while installing the CPU it isn't a problem. One of your problems was VERY likely that the voltage was too low, with everything else correct to run the CPU the voltage would still need raised over 1.65V on a cB0 CPU. Only after you get the voltage up can you know if it has a chance of working o'c.