DIY Speaker Kits

[s44]

What are you going to be powering them with? 2 driver "DIY" setups have a nack for being pretty hard to drive....84-86db of efficieny.

This plus the fact that they're often rear-ported make HT use problematic.

 

[kornphlake]

If you're willing to add each item to your shopping cart individually, the Overnight Sensations MTM look pretty nice and should sound okay being driven by a 15W T-amp as long as you don't expect insane sound levels.

http://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/overnightsensationmtm

The 2 way version is a little less expensive, but won't be as loud and will probably need a subwoofer to fill out the lows.

 

[Jinny]

I have a pair of DIY zaph SR-71.
also a DIY rythmik audio 12" sub.

fantastic.

 

[scott916]

I have a pair of DIY zaph SR-71.
also a DIY rythmik audio 12" sub.

fantastic.

What source and amp?

 

[Jinny]

source is my htpc running xbmc linux, mostly flac/ape lossless
amp is a marantz sr6003

 

[ericlp]

If you're willing to add each item to your shopping cart individually, the Overnight Sensations MTM look pretty nice and should sound okay being driven by a 15W T-amp as long as you don't expect insane sound levels.

http://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/overnightsensationmtm

The 2 way version is a little less expensive, but won't be as loud and will probably need a subwoofer to fill out the lows.

Looks like a cool build but I'd replace the tweeters with these...

Dayton DC28F-8 1-1/8" Silk Dome Tweeter

 

[arcas]

I also built a pair of TriTrix towers. For $100 worth of drivers and crossover components and $40 worth of materials, they're hard to beat.

 

[kornphlake]

Looks like a cool build but I'd replace the tweeters with these...

Dayton DC28F-8 1-1/8" Silk Dome Tweeter

it's not as simple as just replacing the tweeter, the crossover was designed for the tweeter specified. If you go and change that you'll have to design your own crossover taking into account the impedance and frequency response of each driver individually as well as combined, it's not as simple as just plopping a different driver in the cabinet. The speakers mentioned are designed by very competent people, I wouldn't try and tweak or tune unless you've got some experience in doing so. For the inexperienced the results could be disappointing to say the least.

 

[PM650]

it's not as simple as just replacing the tweeter, the crossover was designed for the tweeter specified. If you go and change that you'll have to design your own crossover taking into account the impedance and frequency response of each driver individually as well as combined, it's not as simple as just plopping a different driver in the cabinet. The speakers mentioned are designed by very competent people, I wouldn't try and tweak or tune unless you've got some experience in doing so. For the inexperienced the results could be disappointing to say the least.

^ this 110%. May also be worth considering the relative performance of the two drivers...the $8 ND20FA has much lower distortion and slightly better frequency response than the DC28F. http://www.zaphaudio.com/tweetermishmash/compare.html

 

[Aharami]

^ this 110%. May also be worth considering the relative performance of the two drivers...the $8 ND20FA has much lower distortion and slightly better frequency response than the DC28F. http://www.zaphaudio.com/tweetermishmash/compare.html

someone explain to me what these graphs mean. is it smoother the better? bigger range the better? Im assuming thats the case since the most expensive tweeters seems to have a much smoother and wide-ranging curve than the cheapest
ScanSpeak 7000 - $398

Hi-Vi T20-4 - $5

 

[ericlp]

it's not as simple as just replacing the tweeter, the crossover was designed for the tweeter specified. If you go and change that you'll have to design your own crossover taking into account the impedance and frequency response of each driver individually as well as combined, it's not as simple as just plopping a different driver in the cabinet. The speakers mentioned are designed by very competent people, I wouldn't try and tweak or tune unless you've got some experience in doing so. For the inexperienced the results could be disappointing to say the least.

Firstly "WOW!!! NO SHIT???"

But to all that didn't assume that "DIY" might mean tweaking your crossover to 2.5kHz or some where in that range... Sorry I failed to mention that... As far as changing the box design I doubt that the Box is going to make a big difference since tweeters don't move much air at all. Mostly box design is for the woofer not the tweeter.

Next up on the second post. I disagree.

ND20FA has much lower distortion and slightly better frequency response than the DC28F

Much lower distortion then what? If you would have read the post the dude wants to use a CLEAN 15 watt T-amp. Not a garbage trash can amp. Clean amps you don't need to turn up anyway. So, so much for the distortion claim unless the specs are wrong @ 55 watts... As for frequency, well... If you like the tin sound then go for it. I like the driver I think it pairs up nicely with a T-amp.

Bottom line is this..... It's a CHEAP ass tweeter to begin with you can't expect million dollar results with a cheap tweeter tho. With a little tweaking you can get damn good results. As long as you use decent internal wiring and interconnects ... It's gonna sound pretty nice.

Good Luck.

 

[kornphlake]

What you do with the graphs really depends on what you expect from the speaker, there is no better or worse. The scanspeak has a range from 1khz to about 35khz, the Hi-Vi has a range from 3khz to 35khz. This means that the scanspeak could be paired with a mid or woofer that has a frequency response as high as 1khz, the Hi-Vi would need a mid or woofer that has a frequency response as high as 3khz. This isn't terribly significant, all it means is that your driver selection for the woofer and mid range may be different depending on which tweeter you choose, it could make the crossover components more or less expensive and/or complex too. The peaks and valleys are significant, they need to be taken into account if they are too big, the crossover will need to be designed to attenuate frequencies to get the best results. A perfectly flat response is what a speaker designer is after, but it's not entirely up to the driver to give that response, the crossover network plays a big part in flattening out the curves, if there are too many peaks or valleys or the peaks and valleys are too large it becomes more difficult and expensive to correct the problem with a crossover. Some speaker designs, particularly mid grade consumer models, will emphasize certain frequencies to color the sound, the response graphs would have some intentional peaks and valleys rather than the ideal flat response. There is no right or wrong, good or bad, it's up to the designer to pick drivers and crossover components to get the overall sound he is after.

 

[kornphlake]

Firstly "WOW!!! NO SHIT???"

But to all that didn't assume that "DIY" might mean tweaking your crossover to 2.5kHz or some where in that range... Sorry I failed to mention that... As far as changing the box design I doubt that the Box is going to make a big difference since tweeters don't move much air at all. Mostly box design is for the woofer not the tweeter.

I guess you missed the last couple lines of my post. If you've got the experience go ahead and modify the design or even start your own ground up design. Your post implied that somehow you could just swap components and everything would be fine. Have you built your own crossover to swap one driver for another? I only ask because my understanding is that it isn't as simple as just picking a crossover point based on the published frequency response and everything will be fine.

I've never designed my own speaker, but those who have don't often pick drivers based on an amp, speakers are most often designed with the assumption that the amp won't color the sound in any way and the goal is to build speakers that will reproduce the sound as faithfully as possible as well. Usually the drivers are selected to compliment the other drivers and keep the crossover design as efficient as possible, in this case at a price point as well. Again if you've got the experience then go ahead and pick a driver based on whatever emotional reasoning you might have, suggesting what is a MAJOR change to a first time DIYer is pretty bad advice.

I didn't make any mention of the box, I'm not sure why you got off on that rant.

Interconnects and wiring??? Seriously??? There are about a hundred things that will have a more profound affect on sound than interconnects and wiring.

 

[ericlp]

Interconnects and wiring??? Seriously??? There are about a hundred things that will have a more profound affect on sound than interconnects and wiring.

Yes, I use those drivers, Yes I use that Amp and Yes I have constructed my own crossover.

It's fairly EASY and it's not rocket science. I don't have time to explain how easy it is.

Next off, Most people skimp out on interconnects and wiring. Those are very important. What do you think is going to the crossovers, going to the amp, and going to the drivers themselves? It plays a big part IMO.

DIY is many levels I guess. If you own a soldering iron I'm sure you could manage to get a crossover soldered up in about 15 minutes.

This isn't speaker building you are buying drivers... and assembling in a box. I'm not sure what kinda problem you have but I just prefer the laid back sound of a silk dome tweeter... If you prefer a different brand then... Whatever...

I guess if you have a problem with changing a driver in a speaker box then maybe you should probably just go buy a store bought speaker. You'd be better off.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H4Y1OGalDUo Here is a vid on buying some parts from parts express to make your own. But...... When it sounds like shit, remember it usually takes about 100 hours to break in the new caps. BTW that crossover is being used for the same tweeter.

 

[ericlp]

someone explain to me what these graphs mean. is it smoother the better? bigger range the better? Im assuming thats the case since the most expensive tweeters seems to have a much smoother and wide-ranging curve than the cheapest
ScanSpeak 7000 - $398

Hi-Vi T20-4 - $5

Actually these graphs don't mean shit...

Why? Because you could buy two drivers from the same company and get different results.

So you millage will very. That's why most high end speakers having a set of MATCHING drivers. Not just the same driver mind you but the drivers have the same equal sonic quality. The cheaper the driver the worse off any one will sound the same as the other.

Oh well... that's my take on it. Tho that is if your EARS can even hear the difference. Most people over the age of 30 the high end is shot to shit. It's just goes down hill from there sadly. Even people that have gone to rock concerts a few times can destroy high end range... or listening to headphones and car stereo's cranked up too loud can really do a number on what you can hear later.

Most people can't even hear above 15 kHz range after the age of 25 so turn down those ipods...

 

[kornphlake]

You may be right, my research on the topic has lead me to believe otherwise, but I'll admit I'm still new to the hobby. We aren't talking about modifying an off the shelf speaker that was built to maximize profits, we're talking about a DIY speaker that was designed to maximize performance at a price point by taking the majority of the profit out of the cost.

 

[PM650]

Much lower distortion then what?

If you would have read the post the dude wants to use a CLEAN 15 watt T-amp. Not a garbage trash can amp. Clean amps you don't need to turn up anyway. So, so much for the distortion claim unless the specs are wrong @ 55 watts... As for frequency, well... If you like the tin sound then go for it. I like the driver I think it pairs up nicely with a T-amp.

Much lower distortion than the DC28F; the distortion I was speaking of is inherent to the particular driver's design. The link I posted allows direct comparisons between many tweeters, including the ND20FA & DC28F, for measured CSD, freq. response and distortion profiles.

Bottom line is this..... It's a CHEAP ass tweeter to begin with you can't expect million dollar results with a cheap tweeter tho. With a little tweaking you can get damn good results.

But I don't think it's such a huge stretch that an $8 tweeter can outperform a $13 one. Although if 'tin sound' means more to you than lower distortion, use whatever you want.

As long as you use decent internal wiring and interconnects ... It's gonna sound pretty nice.

Good Luck.

Good luck to you as well.