You're a tard if you think that a car doesn't radiate heat without a radiator... It's ALWAYS radiating heat which is why sometimes it doesn't need to have the thermostat open despite putting heat in.
You're a tard if you think that a car doesn't radiate heat without a radiator... It's ALWAYS radiating heat which is why sometimes it doesn't need to have the thermostat open despite putting heat in.
You're an idiot. I didn't say a car doesn't radiate heat without a radiator. I said the radiator isn't active until operating temps are met. Need I dumb it down any more? What a ridiculous statement you just made.
I would just give up. You don't understand.
I thought that's what this whole thread is about. I distort your POV and you distort mine... I mean after all, with all the responses to what I've said in this thread, there had to have been some serious gross simplification or misunderstanding to have the responses to my posts that you had...That's fleabag's typical way of 'arguing'. He regularly distorts people's responses, then accuses them of ignoring his original argument.
Well until you get your numbers straight, your guess is as good as mine. I can only give you what I know and what I know is that there is a point where the temperature will DROP so long as other conditions are met. If you want, since we're going to have some really cold temperatures, maybe I can do some testing in the S60 both at idle and on the freeway. The temperatures we're about to experience are going to be around the low 30s which should be a bit colder than the 40-50f I was talking about.. I might even record the scan gauge in action.I took the liberty of looking up some numbers. I think you mentioned your family owns an S60. A 2004 S60 has these radiator specs RADIATOR, 3-ROW -- 24.37 in. x 16.56 in. That's a 403 sq in radiator with 3 rows of tubes. Where exactly do they hide a 200 sq in heater core inside the dash?
While I couldn't find dimensions for the S60's heater core I did find the dimensions for a Chevy van. Typically larger vehicles have larger heater cores (more interior space to heat up) and its specs are 8-1/4 x 7-5/8". It may be a double or triple row (can't really be more than that, it's only 1 - 3/8" thick) but even if its a 3 row that's still only the same as the radiator for the volvo. That heater core for the big van is 15% of the size of radiator for your volvo sedan. I wouldn't be surprised if the actual heater core for that volvo was closer to 10% the size of the radiator.
Well until you get your numbers straight, your guess is as good as mine. I can only give you what I know and what I know is that there is a point where the temperature will DROP so long as other conditions are met. If you want, since we're going to have some really cold temperatures, maybe I can do some testing in the S60 both at idle and on the freeway. The temperatures we're about to experience are going to be around the low 30s which should be a bit colder than the 40-50f I was talking about.. I might even record the scan gauge in action.
You haven't a clue as to what you're talking about. I already explained to you that the car is fine. If what you were saying is true, then the car would be overheating or look like it was overheating yet this has never happened despite the 105F+ temperatures we experience in the summer. As I already explained, the thermostat opens and closes quite noticeably, keeping within the 180F-190F range. If the car is in that temperature range for the longest time, and then I turn on the heater only to see the thermostat drop all the way to 160F before I intervened, then how could that possibly be a stuck thermostat. You do realize what your saying makes no sense, right?How are my numbers not straight? I found the areas of the radiator for your car and the heater core for a significantly larger vehicle which should be much larger than the one for the volvo. While the size of the heater core may vary a bit from what I've showed it's not going to be anywhere near 1/2 the size of the radiator. I think it's pretty clear that your guess is off by quite a bit.
There is an air temperature where a car in good condition will have its temperature will drop but it is well below freezing. If your volvo is having its temperature drop from something as simple as driving on the freeway and turning on the heat. Not all problems throw a code or cause an obvious issue. It could be as simple as your thermostat sticking a bit, or simply not waiting long enough for the thermostat to adjust to bring the temperature back up to normal operating temps.
you're an idiot..The thermostat is NOT going to cycle close/open after a few minutes, do you realize that the water jackets around the cylinders/heads represents a small percentage of the total coolant and how quickly the engine would overheat is remained closed?. The temp drop to 160 was probably the fan coming on..
way too entertaining...why isnt this in the garage forum? and why does it have over 500 replies?
you're an idiot..
Will someone here at least admit that there will be a point where an idling engine will NEVER reach operating temperature due to the outside temperature? If you do admit to this, how about you chime in with your thoughts on how cold it would have to be in order for this to happen.
You haven't a clue as to what you're talking about. I already explained to you that the car is fine. If what you were saying is true, then the car would be overheating or look like it was overheating yet this has never happened despite the 105F+ temperatures we experience in the summer. As I already explained, the thermostat opens and closes quite noticeably, keeping within the 180F-190F range. If the car is in that temperature range for the longest time, and then I turn on the heater only to see the thermostat drop all the way to 160F before I intervened, then how could that possibly be a stuck thermostat. You do realize what your saying makes no sense, right?
why isnt this in the garage forum? and why does it have over 500 replies?
Like I said, you're an idiot... First of all, you're assuming the electric fan is running all the time. You're wrong. To say that a car's thermostat does not open and close due to the hot coolant flowing through the radiator is a complete lie unless you're talking about a malfunctioning vehicle. You have no idea how the cooling system of a car works. Since nobody here wants to argue with me, against you, this only confirms my fears that you people haven't a fucking clue as to what you're talking about.No, actually you seem to be. A car's thermostat does not open and close while it's running and after it's opened the first time.
The thermostatically controlled fan on your radiator, on the other hand, will cycle on and off in response to climbing coolant temps....comes on at a predetermined temp and turns off at a lower predetermined coolant temp. The thermostat, once open, remains open.
If the thermostat was stuck open, the car would probably have been closer to 100F and would have a whole host of other problems. You've conveniently avoided the parts where I said you can clearly see when the thermostat has opened and closed.Thermostats can stick opened too.
Honestly though, you probably didn't give the car long enough for it to reach equilibrium. A 30 degree change in the system would be enough to cause the thermostat to start to close. It might take a few minutes until it completely reacts but it will start to ratchet down flow until the car's engine reaches equilibrium again.
If the thermostat was stuck open, the car would probably have been closer to 100F and would have a whole host of other problems. You've conveniently avoided the parts where I said you can clearly see when the thermostat has opened and closed.
Tell you what... it's going to get really cold where I live tonight, around 26F which should be record setting in our area. I'll put my scan gauge in the car and drive around and I'll report back with what I found. You claim that I didn't give the car "enough time", well how about I do what I did before, except instead of intervening, I'll just wait and if it doesn't change in 10 minutes, I'm calling it how it is, that the thermostat is fine and it's just that the heater core is outputting too much heat. I already told you before that the thermostat is obviously fine because the car has never overheated nor even gave the slightest indication that it could overheat. This car has a 2.5L engine, which is a lot less than the gas guzzlers people on this forum drive.It doesn't have to be stuck fully open, and I've had a thermostat stick then suddenly release. Also, I repeatedly stated that MAY be the problem but then said it was probably not the issue. The issue is much more likely to be in the driver's seat.
You're conveniently ignoring the points where I said it is probably just a sudden change and you failed to give the car enough time to reach equilibrium. Ignoring parts of what people say seems to be your primary form of debate. That and grabbing on to a single idea and holding on to it, no matter what arguments, proof or logic others bring against it.