Drilling perpendicular holes

[Tiamat]

Seems like this should be easy to find, but I'm not sure what kind of jig I should be buying to guarantee that I can get perpendicular holes into my ceiling.

Amazon has something called the Rockler Drill Guide kit, is this what I am looking for?

link

Also, my ceiling is poured cement with popcorn texture. I was told I need to get a hammer drill, is that true? They seem to be expensive! Or will any old 30$ black and decker hand power drill work? Do i need to get special bits?


Thanks in advanced!

 

[deadlyapp]

In cement you can try with a regular concrete bit, but without a hammer drill you're going to find it hard work.

I feel as if we sell something like that at sears but I can't find it on the website right now.

 

[AnonymouseUser]

If you are only drilling a few holes you might get by with a regular drill and a couple of masonry bits. If you need several holes but don't really have a need for a hammer drill afterwards, just rent one at a local hardware store or Lowe's/Home Depot.

 

[boomerang]

I finally broke down and bought an inexpensive hammer drill after struggling for years with occasional drilling in concrete, cinder block, masonry, etc. I can't tell you how glad I am I did.

As was said, you will be working your ass off drilling with a regular drill. I bought mine on sale at Sears for $79. If that's too steep for you, see if there is a tool rental near you. Home Depot and Lowe's will rent tools I believe too.

As far as drilling square, get yourself something that is square that you can hold against the ceiling and the drill bit. Use it temporarily to line up the drill in two directions 90 degrees apart and have at it. It will be easier than you think to hold it square enough. Or, have a helper present to eyeball it for square. That may not be the easiest thing to do when drilling in the ceiling though.

If you have to drill in concrete, into the ceiling, with a regular drill motor, don't be surprised if you bend rungs on an inexpensive aluminum ladder. It takes a tremendous amount of pressure to drill masonry with a normal drill motor.

Edit: AnonymouseUser covered some of this while I was typing.

 

[thumper01]

I've never used a drill guide since for applications where I need perfectly perpendicular holes I've used a drill press. So I can't help with that.

As for drilling into concrete, my experience has been that a hammer drill is pretty much a necessity. It takes forever with a regular drill. For a cheap hammer drill, look at CPO tools for factory reconditioned tools. They have a couple of hammer drills for $40 - a Makita 5/8" and a Ryobi 1/2". These should work okay as long as you don't have to drill a bunch of holes and they are less than a 1/2". If you need to drill holes over a 1/2", you would probably be best served renting a rotary hammer. For bits, you will need to get a masonry bit. You will also need masonry bits.

Edit: What they said.

 

[Blackjack200]

Can I ask why the holes need to be perfectly square? ("square" is the term used in construction for doing something directly perpendicular to the piece, if it should not be perpendicular, the term, at least in carpentry, is "toed")

The only time I've drilled holes that needed to be very close to square was when I was dowling cabinet face frames. We had a dowling kit that included a jig with a metal sleeve that clamped onto the piece. Other than that, eyeballing it is usually fine.

 

[Kwatt]

You can use a small level attached to the drill with "200 mph tape".
If you don't have a hammer drill and are drilling more than 2-3 holes you are going to spend a lot of time and bits.
You need masonry bits. Regular bits melt almost instantly.

Are you sure it is cement or is it concrete? If it is concrete and you hit rock a standard drill is useless.


It is not hard drilling close to square. When I install "Q" rated anchors I just eyeball it unless I cannot get a good eyesight on the drill. "Q" anchors are tested and must be within 5 degrees. Or they must be replaced.

..

 

[MagnusTheBrewer]

I just use a speed square for a drilling guide and unless you are setting anchor bolts or drilling large diameter holes, a regular drill should work fine.

 

[feralkid]

Originally posted by: Kwatt
You can use a small level attached to the drill with "200 mph tape".
If you don't have a hammer drill and are drilling more than 2-3 holes you are going to spend a lot of time and bits.
You need masonry bits. Regular bits melt almost instantly.

Are you sure it is cement or is it concrete? If it is concrete and you hit rock a standard drill is useless.


It is not hard drilling close to square. When I install "Q" rated anchors I just eyeball it unless I cannot get a good eyesight on the drill. "Q" anchors are tested and must be within 5 degrees. Or they must be replaced.

..

What?

 

[Greenman]

I have to wonder about the concrete ceiling, that's odd. I also can't imagine what you're hanging from the ceiling that requires so much precision.

 

[spidey07]

Originally posted by: feralkid



What?

There's a big difference between the two.

I also second getting a hammer drill otherwise it will be a pain and you'll just burn up bits. If you need absolute precision get a jig, otherwise you can eyeball it. Many drills have levels on them as well.

 

[edro]

I just used a hammer drill tonight. It drilled through 2" of cinder block in about 20sec.
A regular drill would take about 20min.

Be careful though... they are LOUD AS HELL. Seriously... you should wear ear plugs.

 

[bctbct]

Straight up and down is called plumb, NOT SQUARE!

 

[Howard]

Originally posted by: bctbct
Straight up and down is called plumb, NOT SQUARE!

The bit is square to the surface.

*shrug*

 

[YOyoYOhowsDAjello]

Tiamat, if you think you might end up buying something from The Home Depot in store, send me a PM and I might be able to send you a 10% off coupon in the mail if you think it's worth the effort.

I signed up for the coupon a month or so ago during my component rack project (which was also focused on getting square drilling done). My coupon came yesterday finally and is good for in store until 7/12/2009. I don't think I'll be using it until then, so let me know.

 

[silverpig]

Originally posted by: feralkid

Originally posted by: Kwatt
You can use a small level attached to the drill with "200 mph tape".
If you don't have a hammer drill and are drilling more than 2-3 holes you are going to spend a lot of time and bits.
You need masonry bits. Regular bits melt almost instantly.

Are you sure it is cement or is it concrete? If it is concrete and you hit rock a standard drill is useless.


It is not hard drilling close to square. When I install "Q" rated anchors I just eyeball it unless I cannot get a good eyesight on the drill. "Q" anchors are tested and must be within 5 degrees. Or they must be replaced.

..

What?

Cement is one component of concrete. It's not usually used by itself.

Most concrete is a mix of cement + sand + rocks (think sidewalk). Some concrete (which he's referring to as cement) is just cement + sand.

 

[Tiamat]

Hey, thanks guys for the responses. The ceiling is pretty solid, certainly not sheetrock. I dunno if I need "perfectly" perpendicular. I am in the process of buying some acoustical panels which are either 18 lbs or 28lbs each. They will be hanging from wire that has to be secured to the ceiling, probably by some D-ring + Screw type things. I don't mind paying 80$ for a hammer drill if that is what it costs, but I do need to buy some bits.

I figured i needed a "jig" because I'm not very handy (last time I used power tools was in technology class in junior high school about a decade ago :laugh and I figured it would help esp because the ceiling drilling would be an awkward position.

Basically, the ceiling and floors are heavy/thick enough so that you cannot hear people walking above you. The walls are sheetrock and should be easy to drill through.


Can a hammer drill be used for normal drilling?

 

[Tiamat]

Originally posted by: YOyoYOhowsDAjello
Tiamat, if you think you might end up buying something from The Home Depot in store, send me a PM and I might be able to send you a 10% off coupon in the mail if you think it's worth the effort.

I signed up for the coupon a month or so ago during my component rack project (which was also focused on getting square drilling done). My coupon came yesterday finally and is good for in store until 7/12/2009. I don't think I'll be using it until then, so let me know.

cool, thanks for the offer, I will certainly keep it in mind

 

[Howard]

Yes.

EDIT: in response to your question about whether a hammer drill can be used for regular drilling

 

[bctbct]

just use some 1 1/2 tap-cons, you probably would better off renting a hd from some place.

 

[Tiamat]

I'll keep the Tapcon screws in mind.

Also, is this hammer drill OK?

Text

I might consider renting the hammer drill. I wouldn't mind owning one either though.

For the sheet rock, it was recommended to use Molly bolts. I don't understand why Lowes doesnt have molly bolts?

 

[spidey07]

Quality drill. With everybody wanting cordless very nice corded drills can be had for cheap. And any store will carry moly bolts. I've got something similar from bosch (a little beefier) and never been disappointed, just be careful it doesn't rip you arm off.

Yes, it's that torquey. You'll have to put your shoulder into it.

 

[Tiamat]

Originally posted by: spidey07
Quality drill. With everybody wanting cordless very nice corded drills can be had for cheap. And any store will carry moly bolts. I've got something similar from bosch and never had a problem, just be careful it doesn't rip you arm off.

Yes, it's that torquey. You'll have to put your shoulder into it.

Oh god lol. I'm a pretty skinny guy so my arm would probably rip off quite literally

I don't really care for cordless because I don't use it enough and when I do use it, probably the battery would be dead or some lame thing like that.

I ran a search for Molly bolt in Lowes (and home depot) website and it found 0 matches. Is there an alternative trade name for them?

Thanks!

 

[Howard]

For drywall, I would use either a toggle bolt or screw anchor depending on what the load is like.

EDIT: Molly bolts are AKA sleeve screw anchors

 

[spidey07]

Start here or just go to the store. If you're just doing acoustic paneling your load is going to be pretty weak, you can use compression fasteners and be just fine.

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn...Anchors&N=0+4294957552