Duron pencil unlock not working?

[colinm]

I did a Duron system for my cousin. It was a KT7 (not A or RAID) with a Duron 650, and a cheap 250Watt ATX case (has suspend button, what version of ATX would that be? 2.01 or higher?) I took a regular wood pencil, sharpened it, and drew all over the L1 bridges. I was stupid the first time I did it. I let ALL of the L1 bridges connect to EACH OTHER. So, I realized my stupidity and erased it and did it over neatly. I put it on pretty heavy, but it could've gone heavier methinks. Here it gets interesting. I go into the bios and try for 800MHz. It gets into windows, but freezes a couple seconds after I can see the background (clean win98se). So, I tried it lower, thinking, "Sh*t it had better go higher than this!" Well, it would do the same thing at 750MHz (PAL6035t, btw). I also tried it at various voltages. I tried it at default of 650MHz, and there weren't any problems. WTF!?! Can't even go 50Mhz higher!?! I tried at 600MHz (50 below def.) and it froze!! It is obviously something with the L1 Bridges. I ran out of time and haven't been able to work on it any more. It is several hundred miles away and my cousin doesn't really know enough about it to mess with it. I'll be working on it again this summer, but until then they have 650MHz (I told him he could overclock the FSB to 110Mhz or less but he hasn't done it yet) Why would it freeze in windows, but POST perfectly? It even diplays the correct core speed. Do I need to use a better pencil or other conductor? Did I not erase the first mistake well enough?

Thanks,
Colin

 

[arod324]

You need to put a THICK coat on each bridge. I remember when I did that, I almost pissed my pants when it would not go over 650. I was about to cry . I have heard of tricks using a business card... to seperate the bridges... and so you won't color on the other ones.....
When you think you have enough... PUT MORE ON . My Duron 600 is not @1050 10X105 ... so just keep on trying. It took me about 3 times to get the coating on right.

 

[Compellor]

<< Why would it freeze in windows, but POST perfectly? It even diplays the correct core speed. >>



More than likely it's not getting enough voltage. Other causes can be an improper setup of the ABIT KT7 mobo. This motherboard requires a lot of tweaking in the BIOS if you plan to overclock. A proper OS installation and VIA driver setup is also crucial for stability. I doubt the penciling trick is your problem--as long as the L1 bridges aren't contacting one another and you're using a high quality No.2 pencil. Check out the ABIT KT7 FAQ here:

ABIT KT7 FAQ

 

[colinm]

thx, I'll try that. unfortunately it will have to wait awhile.... I have also heard that certain pencils are better than others. Anyone have any experiences where a #2 just wouldn't cut it?

Colin

 

[colinm]

Compellor, I tried it at several voltages, above and below. I don't remember how far I went (nothing stupid though). But, I really don't think it was the voltage because, if you read my post, I said I tried it at 600Mhz (50Mhz BELOW default). The ONLY speed that worked was 650MHz. This is not any kind of cooling/voltage problem because even when UNDERCLOCKED it didn't work.

Colin

 

[Compellor]

You said it posted at 750-800 MHz? If it did, then the pencil trick worked. With that said, it's a possible voltage issue. Generally, the system will freeze, or you will get a error or BSOD when getting into Windows when the CPU isn't getting enough voltage. It is possible that you may need to use a rear window defogger kit on the L1 bridges to get stablity. These sell for $8.00 at most auto parts stores. Many here have had great success using it.

 

[colinm]

Yes, it posted but would always freeze a couple seconds after the windows background showed up, and before any icons or start menu were visible. I would move the mouse around and it would suddenly freeze. But, I think I proved that the CPU stability isn't the problem because it would do the same thing at 600MHz. It would not have any problems at default, but at 50Mhz below default it would freeze. I think the pencil trick worked, but not well enough. That may sound dumb, but in windows, it doesn't work at any other multiplier than 6.5. Just to clear this up:
SPEED POST WINDOWS VOLTAGE
600 YES NO default
650(def.) YES YES default
700 YES NO default or up to 1.8
>700 YES NO default or up to 1.85

What is this rear window defogger kit you are talking about? Is that a thin metal adhesive wire or something? I have heard of many ways to do it. Has a regular #2 pencil NOT worked for anyone else? I heard that #4 or greater pencils work better. I am willing to try anything. It is possible that I might be upgrading to a TBird myself soon.

Thanks guys (and or gals, gotta be politically correct ya know),
Colin

 

[joinT]

#2 pencil ? I hope you mean 2B.

I would go with the loctite solution - it's really not so hard to put on with a small modelling paint brush &amp; a magnifying glass (if you need it)

 

[Poof]

What is this rear window defogger kit you are talking about? Is that a thin metal adhesive wire or something?

It's the stuff that joinT who posted above me, is talking about. It's a small bottle of brown conductive liquid (actually used to repair cuts in the wires that you're talking about, but not used for that purpose here), that you can spread over the L1 bridges to do more permanently to them, than what a pencil will do. It's a bit tricky to put on since it dries very quickly, but has the benefit in that it doesn't flake off like graphite (but can be removed with solvent if need be).

 

[colinm]

Ahhh!!! I see! I wil certainly do that then. Thanks everyone!

 

[ericboo]

I used Pentel Super .5 HB lead and a mechanical pencil. I crossed each one about two or three times and it works like a charm. 900 is easy, and 950 seems stable, it's just that 1GHZ will POST but not complete into Windows. I guess I will try upping the voltage a bit, and use the defogger stuff when I get bored and have not opened the case in a couple of days.

 

[rearvu]

I used a needle and dipped that in the rear defogger kit to apply..worked very nicely...magnifying glass made the job way easier too...

im now running a 1.1 @ 1.33