DVD media

Sniper82

Lifer
Feb 6, 2000
16,517
0
76
About to buy some DVD media and have some questions. Was curious whats the difference between +R and -R? I heard -R is more compatible in DVD players but if thats so why do ppl bother with +R?

Also I am burning my kids first birthday,Xmas,ect onto DVD and am wanting to know if going generic is a bad idea? Or what brands would be considered generic? I want to be able to put them away for years and not have to worry about something happening to them.
 

furballi

Banned
Apr 6, 2005
2,482
0
0
I use DVD+R and set the booktype to DVD-ROM when I burn. This will eliminate any compatibility with older DVD players. Look for Taiyo Yuden or Made in Japan media from Fuji. Do not use cheap media with important data. Maxell and Sony are also good media BUT you also need to look for Made in Japan on the box.
 

Sniper82

Lifer
Feb 6, 2000
16,517
0
76
Originally posted by: furballi
I use DVD+R and set the booktype to DVD-ROM when I burn. This will eliminate any compatibility with older DVD players. Look for Taiyo Yuden or Made in Japan media from Fuji. Do not use cheap media with important data. Maxell and Sony are also good media BUT you also need to look for Made in Japan on the box.

As long as it's made in Japan it's good? I was gonna order from newegg so not sure if I will be able to check for that.

Hows Ridata?
 

furballi

Banned
Apr 6, 2005
2,482
0
0
There are a few good media from Taiwan and India. The problem is that you must open the package and load the DVD to obtain the media ID code. With the exception of Maxell, almost all Made in Japan discs in the US are Taiyo Yuden. TYs may not yield the best possible burn with all drives, but they are always good to excellent in media quality.

There are some online retailers that sell TY discs in quantity of 50 or 100.

Best Buy has a sale on Sony DVD media. You can also go to other retailers like Circuit City or Staples for price match. Just make sure you see Made in Japan on the box (TY media).

******/taiyo-yuden-8x-dvd-plus-r-silver-thermal.html
 

Sniper82

Lifer
Feb 6, 2000
16,517
0
76
Originally posted by: furballi
The New Egg link looks good if you want DVD-R media. $5 shipping is too much for me.

Is +R better? Can the Taiyo Yuden be bought cheaper? I could look around a little more. Or do you know of a good site?
 

furballi

Banned
Apr 6, 2005
2,482
0
0
I purchase DVD+R media (MIJ Fuji, Sony, or TDK) from the local Best Buy. Will also get a price match from Circuit City or Staples if they stock M in J media. The cost is around $20 for 50 discs. Don't like to buy online cause it cost more $ for shipping if I happen to come across a bad batch of media. High humidity and storage temperature can damage blank media.

+R is my choice if I need to back up data on the PC. And with the DVD-ROM booktype setting, the DVD movie should work with virtually all DVD players. I've seen 20 cents TY DVD=R media at Meritline (4x burn speed). BTW, don't burn faster than 8x.
 

Sniper82

Lifer
Feb 6, 2000
16,517
0
76
I wish I had a Best Buy,Staples and Circuit City. All I got in my area is Wal-Mart and Office Depot. I was in Wal-Mart few hours ago and looked at all there media. They did have some Sony made in Japan. It was $25 for 50pk though . I might go ahead and pickup a pack tomorrow. I am guessing that 100pk of Ridata is crap media?

It would probably be good for burning backups of not so important stuff.
 

sillious

Member
Jun 2, 2003
112
0
0

There are some Ritek G05 code, that are cheap and better, not best, can be found at allmediaoutlet.com & meritline.com

As mentioned by a post above, it's very hard to isolate the Made in Japan media. Almost all media now duplicated/manufactures in Taiwan that look exactly like the Japan made. But my choice also TY, YUDEN, TDK, FUJIFILM, RICHOJPN, MCC, SONY. Stay away from CMC code, one of the worst.

As far as + or -, doesn't really that matter nowadays. But + is suitable for Data, + or - is for video.

Quoted from DigitalFAQ.com

"Media ID Quality Guide

The following list is in preference order. The best discs are near the top of the list. The discs at the bottom of the list are suitable only for a landfill. PVC is the best of all, LONGTEN is the worst of all, etc. Note: Some codes may be listed twice, done because a -R, -RW, +RW and +R by the same company may not be the same quality. The format is listed because of this.

1ST CLASS MEDIA
Almost flawless burns with 95-100% reliable results:
PVC = Pioneer (Japan) = (-R)(-RW) ... media is no longer made
MXLRG0x = Maxell (Japan) = (-R)(-RW)
YUDENT, TYG0x = Taiyo Yuden (Japan) = (-R)(+R)
MCC, MKM = Mitsubishi Chemicals (Singapore/Taiwan) = (-R)(-RW)(+R)(+RW)
TDK, TTG0x, TTH0x = TDK Corp (Taiwan/Japan) = (-R)(-RW)
SONY0xD = Sony (Japan/Taiwan) = (-R)(-RW)

2ND CLASS MEDIA
Decent discs, though not perfect, about 80-95% success rate:
RICOHJPN = Ritek or Ricoh (Taiwan) = (+R)(+RW)
PRODISC = Prodisc Media (Taiwan) = (-R)(+R)
RITEK = Ritek (Taiwan) = (+R)(-R)(-RW)(+RW)
FUJIFILM = Fuji = (-R)(+R)
OPTODISC = Optodisc = (-R)
INFODISC = Infodisc Media = (+RW)

3RD CLASS MEDIA
Quality can be very questionable, about 50-80% success rate:
LEADDATA, LD01, LD, LEDA = Lead Data = (-R)(-RW)
BEALL = Samsung BeAll (Taiwan) = (-R)(+R)
MBI = Moser Beaur (India) = (-R)(+R)(+RW)
MAM-A, MAM-E (USA, Europe) = Mitsui = (-R)
PRINCO, fake TDK = Princo (Taiwan) = (-R)(-RW)
ONIDTECH = Ul Tran Technology (Taiwan) = (-R)
MUST = Unknown OEM = (-R)
GSC001, GSC002 = Gigastorage (Taiwan) = (-R)(+R)
CMC, CMCMAG = CMC Magnetics (Taiwan) = (+R)
PHILIPS = Philips (Taiwan) = (+RW)

4TH CLASS MEDIA
Pathetic garbage media, landfill material, about 0-50% success rate:
CMC, CMCMAG = CMC Magnetics (Taiwan) = (-R)
PIODATA, PIO = LeadData/ Ritek (Taiwan) = (-R))(+R)
OPTODISC = Optodisc (Taiwan) = (+R)(+RW)
LONGTEN = Jilin Qingda ??? (China) = (-R)
YIJHAN = Yi Jhan Technology (Taiwan) = (-R)
ALL FAKE MEDIA = mostly InfoSmart (HK), E-Net (UK) and Mitsui (USA,Europe)
AN31, AN32, ANWELL, AN30 = "default" stamper code (usually Infosmart) = (-R)
AML = Advance Media Limited (Taiwan) = (-R)
INFOSMART, ISO001 = Infosmart (China) = (-R)(+R)
DAXON = BenQ/Acer (+R)(-R)
VANGUARD, VDSPMS = Unknown OEM = (-R)
UME001 = UmeDisc (Hong Kong) = (-R)
WFKA = Wealthfair Investment (China) = (-R)(+R)

ANYTHING ELSE = Unknown OEM or NEW"

 

furballi

Banned
Apr 6, 2005
2,482
0
0
It takes about 25 minutes to backup a DVD movie. Is your time worth the cost of a quality 50 cents DVD disc? Ever store a bunch of data on a DVD only to find out that the DVD is no longer readable? Do you know how much data you can store on a DVD in DVD ROM ISO multisession format? My DVD is only 1/2 full after two years of use.

The DVD-R is a good deal if those discs are genuine TYs. If you don't need a lot of media, then go with the $25 special at Wal Mart. Those should be TYs if they are coded Made in Japan. Another advantage is that you can return the media locally if you have a bad batch.
 
Aug 23, 2000
15,509
1
81
And all these years I've been buying the cheapest thing possible at Fry's. I've had one disc fail to burn. I even played a 2 year old disc last night and it worked fine.
 

Sniper82

Lifer
Feb 6, 2000
16,517
0
76
Originally posted by: JeffreyLebowski
And all these years I've been buying the cheapest thing possible at Fry's. I've had one disc fail to burn. I even played a 2 year old disc last night and it worked fine.

Well I have a burnt CD with Quake 2 on it from back in 96-97 and my computer still reads it. Also one with Half Life from like 98 and it plays fine.
 

Tostada

Golden Member
Oct 9, 1999
1,789
0
0
I use nothing but TY DVD-R media for movies. I've been burned too many times by mediocre media ... I've got close to 100 Riteks that were fine for a few months but mostly unreadable 3 years after I burned them. I even have several Verbatims with errors.

The whole argument that you should use DVD+R because you can set the booktype is pretty bogus. It only applies to a very limited number of very old set top players. The fact is that even old players usually don't reject the DVD-R booktype, and most players that do reject DVD-R are old enough that they don't work well with +R media. For example, I have first-gen Sony, Panasonic and Toshiba players from 1997 that will play TY DVD-R discs just fine, but reject or skip heavily on cheaper DVD-R media and all DVD+R media. Booksetting isn't an issue. I have only heard of a couple legitimate instances where booksetting DVD+R helped compatability.

 

sillious

Member
Jun 2, 2003
112
0
0
You should not compare CD with DVD media. CD started with 650MB, then 700 and 840MB (rare to find), but nothing to worry about +R or -R. Trust other's comment, when is comes for DVD, it can get pretty nasty. You have: +R, -R, +RW, -RW, +R DL, -RDL, RAM, I guess soon to come +RW DL & -RW DL.

My very first encounter with DVD media was: 15/100 good, 85 bad!
I went to buy for a "good" deal, not knowing anything about "good" media - lesson learned.
 

dclapps

Member
Jul 24, 2005
150
0
71
I've bought 4 100pk ridata +r's from newegg, and two buddies who have bought 5 100pk's each, and not one of us has had a bad burn. All my media reads and runs fine, as well as theirs. I guess if the comfort of mind is worth the price increase, then by all means...

There the "cheap" ones on newegg, where you can find 8x +r/-r for about $20 every so often, but usually around $25-30 shipped. I've even seen the 16x prices drop to lower than the 8x's. I just have too many movies to back up to warrant spending all that extra money, when I have yet to encounter any problems whatsoever.

2 cents of course
 

Tostada

Golden Member
Oct 9, 1999
1,789
0
0

That article is over-analyzing the actual on-paper differences in the +R and -R specification. In the end, the media quality is not related to whether or not it is +R or -R.

Some of the things that article says are outright stupid. It says that +R is better because linking uses up a few KB less. That's asinine. If you're going to nit pick about capacity, you should use -R because DVD-R media has about 7MB more capacity than DVD+R.

No matter how much better you think +R is than -R, the simple fact is that Taiyo Yuden is good media, Ritek is mediocre media, and Princo is bad mdia. So, Taiyo Yuden will always be better quality than Ritek, whether you're using +R or -R. You will always get good results with Taiyo Yuden whether you're using +R or -R. Your burns will always be questionable with Princo, whether you're using +R or -R.

I'm not trying to get on some Yuden soap box. I'm sure there is other media that's about as good. The point is that good media is good media. If you have good +R media, it will simply not give you superior performance to good -R media (and vice versa).

OTOH, there are many examples of DVD players that just don't like +R. It really doesn't matter whether you use +R or -R, but you might as well use the one that's the most compatible if you're burning movies.

The benefits of -R really only apply to movies, so you might as well use +R for burning files. Still, there's no significant difference either way.

If you're talking about rewritable media, then you can say that +RW is better than -RW. Especially if you're putting multiple sessions on an RW, you should be using +RW.

 

Tostada

Golden Member
Oct 9, 1999
1,789
0
0
Originally posted by: dclapps
I've bought 4 100pk ridata +r's from newegg, and two buddies who have bought 5 100pk's each, and not one of us has had a bad burn. All my media reads and runs fine, as well as theirs. I guess if the comfort of mind is worth the price increase, then by all means...

There the "cheap" ones on newegg, where you can find 8x +r/-r for about $20 every so often, but usually around $25-30 shipped. I've even seen the 16x prices drop to lower than the 8x's. I just have too many movies to back up to warrant spending all that extra money, when I have yet to encounter any problems whatsoever.

2 cents of course

Well, get back to me after you've let them sit in a closet for 3 years. I've had tons of Riteks go bad, and I've used 3 different generations of Ritek discs from two different suppliers burned with both Pioneer and NEC burners. I certainly don't think it's worth getting anything but the best when even the absolute best 16X media is under $0.40 a piece delivered these days.

Ritek 8X +R 100 pack = $23.99 at NewEgg
Ritek 8X -R 100 pack = $29.99 at NewEgg
Ritek 16X +R 100 pack = $29.99 at NewEgg

TY 8X -R 100 pack = $31.99 at Rima
TY 8X +R 100-pack = $39.99 at Rima
TY 16X -R 100 pack = $31.99 at Rima
 
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