E6750 & Gigabyte P35C-DS3R Overclocking Thread

mrfatboy

Senior member
Sep 3, 2006
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A bunch of us started gettting more into overclocking this setup in another thread in the motherboard section. I wanted to dedicate this thread soley for the purpose of overclocking the 6750 & Gigabyte P35C-DSR3 board.

I also would like to encourage people to talk about their temperatures and what heat syncs they are using when overclocking.

I am currently at 3.6gh Orthos stable. I use coretemp 0.95.4 for coretemps and speedfan 4.33 for the other temps. Please note if you use earlier versions of coretemp or the current version of speedfan you need to add 15C to your core temps for them to be accurate for the 6750 or G0 chips.


@3.6 and non stressed(23C (73F) ambient). My speedfan temps are:

NB 40C
HD0 25C
Core 0 31C
Core 1 31C
CPU 38C
Case 20C
8800gts 50C

@3.6 and orthos stressed (23C (73F) ambient). my speedfan temps are:

NB 42C
HD0 25C
Core 0 55C
Core 1 55C
CPU 38C
Case 48C
8800gts 50C

Vdrop = .042
Vdroop = .074


Please see my rig setup in my sig. Since several people have been asking me how I got to 3.6 overclock. My bios setup is below.

I still would like to go higher so if anybody has any suggestions on how to do it I would appreciate it.

For those of you that don't know press CTRL+F1 at bios main menu to get the advance bios features.

BIOS pic 1
BIOS pic 2

Bios Setup
-----------------
Robust Graphic Booster Auto
CPU Clock Ratio 8X
CPU Host Clock Control Enabled
CPU Host Frequencey (mhz) 450
PCI Express Frequency (mhz) 100
C.I.A.2 Disabled
!! Performance Enhanced with Turbo
System Memory Multiplier (SPD) [2.00]
Memory Frequency (Mhz) 800 900
High Speed Dram DLL Settings [option 1]
DRAM Timing Selectable (SPD) [manual]
CAS Latency Time 5 [4]
DRAM RAS# to CAS# 5 [4]
DRAM RAS# Precharge 5 [4]
Precharge delay(tRAS) 18 [12]
ACT to ACT Delay (tRRD) 3 [Auto]
Rank Write to READ Delay 3 [Auto]
Write to Precharge Delay 6 [Auto]
Refresh to ACT Delay 42 [0]
Read to Precharge Delay 3 [Auto]
tRD 7 [Auto]
tRD Phase Adjustment 0 [Auto]

System Voltage Control [Manual]
Ddr2/ddr3 OverVoltage Control [+.3V]
PCI-E OverVoltage Control [Normal]
FSB OverVoltage Control [Normal]
(G)MCH OverVoltage Control [+0.1V]
CPU Voltage Control [1.45000]
Normal CPU Vcore 1.35000V


WARNING!
Depending on the bios version this board can overvolt the ram (DDR2/DDR3 Overvoltage Control). Please use caution when changing this bios option. Its a good idea to check your vdimm voltage to make sure you are set correctly. Bios version of F6 and eailier have the below voltage settings :


Delta---------Actual voltage
+.0v----------2.00v
+.1v----------2.00v
+.2v----------2.13v
+.3v----------2.24v
+.4v----------2.37v


 

SniperDaws

Senior member
Aug 14, 2007
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Alright Mr, could you take some pics of your tuniq tower mounted on the P35C-DS3R please mate?
 

5t3v0

Senior member
Dec 22, 2005
508
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Originally posted by: mrfatboy
@5t3v0, I would appreciate it if you would post your overclock write up in the other thread here.

OK, here goes....

There's lots of ways to overclock & I'm not saying mine is the best, it's just the way I did it. Before you start, I suggest reading this excellent guide by graysky.

If copying this I recommend the following:
1. System has DRR2-800 RAM or better to achieve 1:1 synchronisation with CPU
2. Stock CPU cooler is replaced with a better 3rd-party cooler
3. MB heatsink is re-set using Arctic Silver 5

1. Tools & setup
The setup & tools I used were as follows:
i. Clean install of Windows Vista 32-bit
ii. Memtest86 floppy boot disk (CD-ROM boot image is also available)
iii. cpu-z
iv. Coretemp 0.95.4 beta (this is the only version corrected for the G0 CPUs)
v. Speedfan
vi. Orthos

2. The goal
I personally think its good have a goal in mind when starting these things & mine was to reach at least 3.2GHz (8x400) with the RAM running 1:1 with the CPU. The reason I set this was that it would fully utilise the RAM capability as there's nothing worse that under clocking components in my book. This target overclock also seemed achievable & fairly conservative compared to other experiences so if I managed to get anything higher, it would be a bonus. This seemed better than aiming too high & ending up disappointed.

3. BIOS settings
These are my settings based on recommendations in the myriad forums out there. I've already posted this a couple of times so apologies for the repetition.

Advanced BIOS Features
-----------------------------
First Boot Device = Floppy (use CDROM if using the Memtest86 boot CD-ROM)
Second Boot Device = Harddisk
CPU Hyper Threading = Disabled
Limit CPUID Max to 3 = Disabled
No Execute Memory Protect = Disabled (Note: disabling is a security risk)
CPU Enhanced Halt (CIE) = Disabled
CPU Thermal Monitor 2 (TM2) = Disabled
CPU EIST Function = Disabled (aka SpeedStep. This can be re-enabled later if desired)
Virtualization Technology = Disabled

MB Intelligent Tweaker - press CTRL-F1 before going into this screen to bring up extra options
--------------------------
Robust Graphics Booster = Auto
CPU Host Clock Control = Enabled
CPU Host Frequency (MHz) = 333 (set 266 for 1066 FSB CPUs)
PCI Express Frequency = 100
C.I.A.2 = Disabled
Performance Enhance = Standard
System Memory Multiplier = 2.00
High Speed RAM DLL Settings = Option 1 (I don't think this does anything when manual timings are set)
DRAM Timing Selectable = Manual
System Voltage Control = Manual

I also set the appropriate RAM timings manually e.g. 4-4-4-12 but left all voltages at default.

4. Overclocking
First off, I went straight in and set the CPU clock to the target 400MHz (in the BIOS MB Intelligent Tweaker screen, set CPU Host Frequency = 400). This isn't the conventional way to overclock I know but it saves a heck of a lot of time! At this stage all my voltages were still left at default.

First stability test was with Memtest86 so I rebooted to the Memtest floppy & ran 1 pass of all tests. This failed on test 7.

Given the RAM was still on default voltage (1.8v on this board) and my RAM is rated 2.1v on the 4-4-4-12 timings, I needed to eliminate the possibility that the RAM was holding things back. I upped the voltage by 0.1v (in the BIOS MB Intelligent Tweaker screen, remembering to press CTRL-F1 first, set DDR2/DDR3 Overvoltage Control = +0.1) and, for the expedience of time, I just re-ran test 7 again (press C when Memtest starts to bring up the configuration options). I repeated this 3 times (to reach +0.3v) before test 7 passed. I then ran half a dozen loops of all tests to be sure the RAM was stable.

Next I increased the CPU clock in 10MHz steps. Each time I booted into Memtest first & ran 1 loop of all tests to check for RAM stability. If this fails you can try another notch on the DDR voltage but be wary abut going above 2.2v (+0.4v).

If RAM was stable, I booted into Windows. If Windows booted I returned to BIOS and added another 10MHz until Windows no longer booted (I can't remember at what frequency this first happened). At this point I started increasing the CPU voltage (CPU Voltage Control in the BIOS MB Intelligent Tweaker screen) by the minimum increment each time (0.00625v) until Windows would boot. I continued doing this until I reached 450MHz. I stopped here for no other reason than it was a nice round number!

Next I stability tested the overclock using Orthos (min 10 hours) while monitoring temperatures with Coretemp and Speedfan (note that the core temp on Speedfan is 15C below what it should be). Each time the test failed I restarted & increased CPU voltage by the minimum amount. I eventually reached stability (14 hours of Orthos) with 1.4625v (1.392v cpu-z load reading).

When raising the CPU voltage it's advisable not too get carried away so set yourself an upper limit and don't go beyond it. A lot of people are saying 1.5v is the maximum you should go on air cooling although this is quite high & your temps may be too hot depending on the cooler you have. My personal preference would be to stay on or below 1.45v but I'm already now above that. However, given the large vdroop on this board, I'm not too concerned as long as the temps are reasonable.

Sometimes it can help the CPU overclock by raising the northbridge (MCH) and FSB voltages by 0.1v-0.2v (in the BIOS MB Intelligent Tweaker screen, these are (G)MCH OverVoltage Control and FSB OverVoltage Control). Given the passive cooling on the chipset, I'd use this as a last resort.

Peak load temps are 56C tcase and 67C core, while typical load temps are 2C lower. They're high, but not excessive by any means.

5. Final tweaks
I have re-enabled SpeedStep (CPU EIST Function = Enabled) for the power saving benefits and to protect my CPU from running overclocked & overvolted 24x7. However, while it has been dropping to a x6 multiplier (2.7GHz CPU speed), CPU voltage has not reduced.

If you're worried about temps, you could try enabling the CPU Thermal Monitor but I've no idea how well this works when overclocked. For safety, I have set the CPU Warning Temperature in the BIOS PC Health Status screen to 60C although I'm pleased to say that this has never been activated.

For increased security, you can re-enable the No Execute function (No Execute Memory Protect = Enabled) if you wish. I have actually disabled this in BCDEDIT as well as the BIOS as I don't like the idea of Windows deciding what's safe to execute or not.
 

mrfatboy

Senior member
Sep 3, 2006
841
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76
Here you go sniper

Mrfatboy's computer

Mrfatboy's computer 2


When you install your tuniq you have to make sure that the fan is blowing out of the case. I accidently had mine blowing in and had to take the fan out and flip it around (it was easy). So don't let the position of my tuniq fool you (fin points pointed up). They probably should be pointed down so that the fan blows out because of factory fan install.

I have 200mm fan on the top of my Antec 900. I could have the fan blow up but I also have a 120mm intake fan in the front. This creates a nice "thur and thru" air action.

Now, while i was in my case I took a measurement of the NB heatsink from the board. It's 1.25" tall measured from the board. I think somebody wanted to know if a TR90 would fit. I think it would

BTW, I'm running orhtos at a lower voltage (1.46225V). I think that is the same as you 5t3v0, correct? I will try to lower my volts on my ram also.
 

SniperDaws

Senior member
Aug 14, 2007
762
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0
OMG that cooler is huge....no wonder the stock one is useless its about a quater of its size. well im glad to see it fits nicely on our boards.


anyway here is my last Prime95 run using the stock cooler and stock settings Vcore at normal instead of undervolted.

http://s14.photobucket.com/alb...view¤t=Stock.jpg

my next temp pics will be with the Tuniq Tower and Arctic silver 5 somtime this week ( that is if Initial City link can find somthing else to play football with )
 

Wurmer

Member
Aug 8, 2007
48
0
0
Ok, I am just trying to test the stability of my overclock, and got a few question. Howl long should Orthos be left running to make sure it's stable ? Also, my cores are staying at 65 it's a bit on the high side but I guess there shouldn't be any problem. My cooler is AC Pro, not as efficient as the Tuniq. I have tied using Temp core but Vista 64 doesn't seem to like it much so I left using Speed Fan.
 

mrfatboy

Senior member
Sep 3, 2006
841
0
76
Originally posted by: Wurmer
Ok, I am just trying to test the stability of my overclock, and got a few question. All long should Orthos be left running to make sure it's stable ? Also, my cores are staying at 65 it's a bit on the high side but I guess there should be a problem. My cooler is AC Pro, not as efficient as the Tuniq. I have tied using Temp core but Vista 64 doesn't seem to like it much so I left using Speed Fan.

I would let orthos run 12-24 hours to declare it running stable. I think your temps are normal for your cooler. I believe 5t3v0 has your same cooler or close to it. Maybe he can comment.

@sniper, yes, it's one big mofo of a cooler But you will be glad you got it Once it's in the box, who cares how big it is
 

Wurmer

Member
Aug 8, 2007
48
0
0
I don't how this will end up but I have lowered my CPU voltage and see what will happen. I am pretty much going by trial/error. I'd like to find the lowest voltage possible to get my 6 x 400 rock stable.

I was tempted by your cooler than my eye were on the TR extreme but in the end I told my self that the AC Pro would suffice for my gold.

BTW, I am curious. At what setting do you have your case fans running ?
 

mrfatboy

Senior member
Sep 3, 2006
841
0
76
all my case fans are on LOW. My tuniq is at 1600 RPM. I was looking at the AC PRO first because of the money but I got the Tuniq for $45 and it came with it's own fan. The TR extreme was $72 plus you needed to buy a fan

The are very close if not the same. TR extreme is supposed to have the edge.


What are you trying to overclock to? Let that 6850 run free!!!!!
 

5t3v0

Senior member
Dec 22, 2005
508
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0
Originally posted by: Wurmer
Ok, I am just trying to test the stability of my overclock, and got a few question. Howl long should Orthos be left running to make sure it's stable ? Also, my cores are staying at 65 it's a bit on the high side but I guess there shouldn't be any problem. My cooler is AC Pro, not as efficient as the Tuniq. I have tied using Temp core but Vista 64 doesn't seem to like it much so I left using Speed Fan.

65C core temp is high if you're on stock volts as your sig says. These are my current voltages & temps:

CPU ratio 8
CPU Freq 450MHz
Vcore 1.4625v
MCH Default
FSB Default
PCI-E Default
DIMM +0.3 (2.1v)


Peak temps:

CPU 57C
Core 0 67C
Core 1 67C
Mobo 38C

Typically, temps are 55C/65C cpu/core at this voltage. I am currently testing stability 1 vcore notch down at 1.45625, with this temps are typically 53C/63C.

BTW, I tested the lowest voltage for 6x450 & it would run orthos for a 3 hours at 1.10625v which is pretty impressive. I didn't fully test it as I was only being curious.
 

SniperDaws

Senior member
Aug 14, 2007
762
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0
Originally posted by: Wurmer
Ok, I am just trying to test the stability of my overclock, and got a few question. Howl long should Orthos be left running to make sure it's stable ? Also, my cores are staying at 65 it's a bit on the high side but I guess there shouldn't be any problem. My cooler is AC Pro, not as efficient as the Tuniq. I have tied using Temp core but Vista 64 doesn't seem to like it much so I left using Speed Fan.

Hello mate, how did you apply the thermal paste when you seated the AC pro?

i saw a thread where a guy was getting really high temps using a Tuniq Tower and a dual core, they tried everything to lower this guys temps, adding case fans, ducts the lot, then this one guy came in and said can you take off your heatsink and take a pic, anyway he posted the pic and noboady could believe it, it looked like the guy had put on nearly a full tube of thermal paste, so for anyone wondering here are some pics of the correct way to apply arctic silver thermal paste.

http://www.arcticsilver.com/ar...ilver_instructions.htm
 

mrfatboy

Senior member
Sep 3, 2006
841
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76
I'm currently at 12h Orthos at 1.45v. I don't understand why it is working now but it is

1.45v consistently failed for me in under 10 minutes the other day. All my other settings are exactly the same. Why would it work not but not 2 days ago?

This is a real bizarre question but can chips be broken in or change over time? I thought they were an absolute.

My cores are both 52C stressed now It is the morning a little cooler tho.
 

5t3v0

Senior member
Dec 22, 2005
508
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0
I'm on 10h 50m of Orthos with 1.45625v which is a notch down from yesterday. I had jumped over this voltage & went from 1.45v to 1.4625v after failing on 1.45v. My load temps are maxing out at 54/65 cpu/core which is 2-3C lower than yesterday, and its warmer in the room (~21C). I'm going to stick with this & see how I get on.

@fatboy - that's well strange that you're stable on 1.45v again. Perhaps the lower ambient temp is the reason. If it's that borderline though, I'd jump to 1.45625v to be safe. Wont affect your temps much especially with a 52C core temp, #*%#*&*! Goes to show the difference that Tuniq makes.

@sniper - good news on the cooler front although I cant help wondering if its really necessary for the UK climate. Those wardrobes must have worked a treat. I was in Ikea myself last night spending £750 on wardrobes so now I definitely don't have enough dosh for a better cooler but hey, winter's coming!
 

SniperDaws

Senior member
Aug 14, 2007
762
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Christ mate you must be loaded to spend £750 on wardrobes, im getting the kids wardrobes from Ikea but i can tell you now im spending no more than £150 ....... lmao

id want my wardrobes gold plated and brewing up in the morning for £750, no wonder you're always on the piss.....lmao J/K
 

SlicedBread27

Junior Member
Sep 6, 2007
22
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0
mrfatboy - It takes time for certain thermal compounds (AS5 in particular) to cure and reach their optimum thermal transfering capacity. I think after 200 or 300 hours you can see temps drop as much as a degree or two which may have been enough to keep you stable? Maybe that plus another factor helped.

Either way thats an awesome overclock and great news for me. I just got all my parts for a new system (almost identical to yours) in the mail yesterday save for the PSU. When it gets here tomorrow I'm gonna fire the whole thing up and see if I can make it to 3.6 stable.
 

mrfatboy

Senior member
Sep 3, 2006
841
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My rig has been on for 24/7 since Aug 1. that's almost 1000 hours I just started to seriously overclock last week. That would be a bizarre coincidence if it was the only the paste. I'm at 15 hours Orthos now. I am even going to try lower.
 

jcossin

Member
Sep 11, 2007
54
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0
Well I got my TT Ultra 120 Extreme installed. Man that cooler is a real pain to install, had to reinstall it 3 times to get it seated right so that it was cooling properly. I put a Scythe S-Flex 120mm fan on the Ultra 120 and is it VERY silent, gotta love that!

Man, I am SO impressed with this CPU/Mobo/RAM combo!

The CPU was doing 3.60GHz (450x8) at 1.475 rock solid under Orthos. This was with stock cooling, but I wasn't happy with the heat at 70C. After installing the Ultra 120 I dropped about 9 degrees under load to 61C. Not bad but I wanted to come down to about the mid 50s under load. I reduced my voltage to 1.425 but I also had to reduce my speed to 3.5GHz(438x8) to be stable and I think I've found the sweet spot, under load I'm hitting about 53C to 55C. (Keep in mind I live in Phoenix and it is HOT here.)

The Patriot RAM clocks like a champ at 876MHz at 4-4-4-12 timings. I got 2GB for $61 at NewEgg after rebate.

And I am the most impressed with the Gigabyte motherboard. At $95 it is the cheapest mobo I have purchased and yet it is super stable and the overclock features are kick ass! When you overclock too high the system just reboots itself and clocks back down! No more having to open the case to reset the CMOS. How cool is that!!

I did run into one issue with my motherboard that's worth mentioning. I was playing Company of Heroes and using my headphones and noticed I was getting a lot of whining noise through my X-Fi. As if there is a shielding issue somewhere. I had my X-Fi in the bottom PCI slot (PCI 3). I decided to move it to PCI 1 by the graphics card and that's when all hell broke lose. As soon as I moved the card and tried to boot my PC, it would REFUSE to boot into any overclocked setting, even the most mild overclock. I then moved the card back to PCI 3 and it was still doing it so I cleared the CMOS with the jumper and set everything back and it was fine. Just for grins I moved my X-Fi back to PCI 1 and it DID IT AGAIN! Moved it to PCI 2 this time, cleared the CMOS and all is fine. (I also tried clearing the CMOS and leaving it in PCI 1 but it was a NO-GO). I seem to have less whining noise now in PCI 2 but still a little. I didn't have this issue at all on my MSI Diamond K8N Socket 939 board.

So if anyone runs into this problem with a Gigabyte P35 board (won't overclock, just keeps rebooting until it clocks down), try making sure PCI 1 doesn't have a card and also clear your CMOS. I may just have a flakey board but since I am happy with everything else about it, I don't want to deal with RMA'ing it.
 

mrfatboy

Senior member
Sep 3, 2006
841
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I tried lowering my vcore down to 1.44375. I failed orthos 3 times. The longest it went was 32 minutes. I guess I'm going back up to 1.45 I'm now going to try lower my vdimm a bit and see if I can still be stable.

@jcossin, sweet setup. congrats. I also had a problem with my sound card. I have the SB 24 live card. The board wouldn't recognized it at all. I orginally had the sound card in the pci slot next to the vid card. I had to move it to the next slot over to finally recognize it. Two days later the sound card appeared to go belly up. The mobo would not recognize it again even after multiple reboots. I then took the card out, rebooted without the card, put it back in and all has been well. I'm not sure if it's the card or the mobo. Wierd stuff
 

jcossin

Member
Sep 11, 2007
54
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0
I'm glad to know that I'm not the only one who has seen flakey behavior on this board with regard to the PCI slots!

I seem to be completely stable at 3.5GHz at 1.425V. I'm going to let it run here for a bit before I try to go higher. My temps are hitting 53 to 55C in the Intel Thermal Analysis Tool. I'm not sure what is safe but I'm gathering that you want to keep it below 60C.
 

5t3v0

Senior member
Dec 22, 2005
508
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0
@fatboy: I would try getting the MCH voltage back down to default. I moved back with no issues. With that feeble aluminium heatsink on the NB, you dont want to be overvolting it if at all possible. I think you'll be lucky to get the Ballistix any lower, especially at that frequency.

@sniper: It's all on credit mate. The wife has been nagging for years & I've finally succumbed. These are wall to wall wardrobes - 3.6m / 5 units in total. Sorry guys - this has b0ll0cks all to with overclocking

@jcossin: Did you try another or the onboard sound card to see if the noise was the same?
 

mrfatboy

Senior member
Sep 3, 2006
841
0
76
@ 5t3v0, I will try to lower the mch volts. However, until i raised them per your suggestion I could not run 3.6 at all. Is seems my system is being "broken in" some how. Thank god its for the better


@ jcossin, You say you are get 53 & 55C temps in TAT. Is that load or idle? TAT is wrong. You need to at 15C. Your temps are way high either way. You said you are in phoenix, what's your room temperature?
 

jcossin

Member
Sep 11, 2007
54
0
0
Originally posted by: 5t3v0
@jcossin: Did you try another or the onboard sound card to see if the noise was the same?

The onboard side has more crackling and whining noise by far than the X-Fi card. Do you think I have a bad board?
 

jcossin

Member
Sep 11, 2007
54
0
0
Originally posted by: mrfatboy
@ jcossin, You say you are get 53 & 55C temps in TAT. Is that load or idle? TAT is wrong. You need to at 15C. Your temps are way high either way. You said you are in phoenix, what's your room temperature?

15C at load? No way, I never see anyone that low on load. upper 40s and low 50s are what I see everyone saying in the threads on e6750 overclocking. I'm at 29-30C at idle.

My ambient temp is 27C since it is hot here in Phoenix right now.
 

5t3v0

Senior member
Dec 22, 2005
508
0
0
tjunction max, the core temp at which the cpu will shutdown, is 100C for this cpu which means there's a bit more head room with temps than the older chips. There is an excellent article over at TH which suggests the max core temp for this cpu shouldn't exceed 75C & ideally should be below 70C. On that basis, jcossin's temps are high but OK.
 
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