E6750 & Gigabyte P35C-DS3R Overclocking Thread

[Conjugal Visit]

@mrfatboy - I thought it had been discussed in that forum that there is an issue with 2D and 3D - linking the two or whatever is broken at present in 2.06? You don't give up, I'll give you that. You want to adjust the shader clock independent of mem and core? I can't see why. Fact is, you ARE adjusting the shader with ATITool - it's a ratio and it's pinned to either mem or core...

See for yourself - start rivatuner's Hardware monitor. Open ATITool. Load your default mem/core settings. Look at Hardware monitor and read the value of the shader. Now load your overclock. Read the value of the shader in the Hardware monitir. What do you see? The shader overclocks. If you figure out how to implement 3D detection in rivatuner, that would be great - I'd love to hear about it. Until then, I've given you a solution. Respectfully? You're obsessing.

Regards,

 

[wpcoe]

Originally posted by: Conjugal Visit
I've read some threads here and there where folks are undervolting, yeah, and happy to do so. I don't know enough about that, frankly. Personally, if the manufacturer says "run my Ram at 2.1v if you wanna do 4-4-4-12" for instance, I set it to 2.1v. IMO, I'd leave the voltage at Normal - 1.3500 - and then implement EIST and C1E, which will undervolt your rig when it's just sitting around. Or go for it, and start dropping down a step or two, but I'd Orthos the heck out of it, just to make sure when you launch some mission critical shite, undervolted, you don't suddenly freeze, crash, ort start getting computational errors...

Last night I lowered the core voltage to 1.25v mainly to see what the difference in operating temps would be. Then I went to bed and left the Orthos blend tests running. Got up 5.5 hours later, and no errors at that point, but I will test it longer later on.

Before I went to bed, I noted the temp readings with Orthos running and air con off with a room temp of 27.5°C, at the point where the Orthos had been running 8 mins. (BTW, until yesterday I didn't realize I needed to run two instances of Orthos to totally "max out" the RAM. With only one instance of Orthos running, it would only use about 2.5GB RAM). With 27.5°C room temp, Orthos running 8 mins: @ 1.35v the core temps were 57°+59° and @ 1.25v were 52°+54° -- an impressive (to me, at least) drop of 5°.

This morning, doing the same test, but with air con running and room temp of 23.5°C, @ 1.35v the core temps were 49°+50° and @ 1.25v were 45°+47°.

Considering the room temp dropped only 4°C, I was surprised at how much that appears to have affected the core temps.

All the above experimenting was done with fan control OFF in BIOS, i.e. all fans running full bore. And, for consistency, I started the second instance of Orthos 30 secs after starting the first instance for each test.

For kicks, I took screen shots of the experiment this morning:
http://www.wpcoe.com/1.35v.gif
http://www.wpcoe.com/1.25v.gif

Thanks for all the feedback. I've been reading some of the other threads about this mobo and am impressed with the knowledge of the participants and the patience and willingness to share info.

 

[Conjugal Visit]

@wpcoe - seek out the Orthos version specific to the Core 2 Duo - its called Orthos Beta. It will run stress tests on both cores automatically. You want to run your fans flat-out 24/7? Why? With a modest 3.0 overclock, that rig should be almost dead silent if you let PWM do it's thing. As I've said, the stock Intel cooler is plenty for that CPU at 3.0. Let PWM ramp it up at stress, and drop it down when it's not.

Regards,

 

[Conjugal Visit]

@mrfatboy - I just went into riva and tested overclocking. Works for me. And on the subject of a test button, mine does not have one. Documentation for 2.06 talks about this.

 

[wpcoe]

Originally posted by: Conjugal Visit
@wpcoe - seek out the Orthos version specific to the Core 2 Duo - its called Orthos Beta. It will run stress tests on both cores automatically. You want to run your fans flat-out 24/7? Why? With a modest 3.0 overclock, that rig should be almost dead silent if you let PWM do it's thing. As I've said, the stock Intel cooler is plenty for that CPU at 3.0. Let PWM ramp it up at stress, and drop it down when it's not.

I think I might already be using the beta? I googled for an Orthos beta download and all the links I checked were for the same file I previously downloaded: orthos_exe_20060420.cab.

My version of Orthos > About reports v0.41.110.18 and it already does stress both cores, it's the *RAM* that needs a second instance running to max it out, at least according to Windows Task Manager.

I don't plan to run with the fans on full bore 24/7/365. The one case fan has a growl at full speed that would drive me nuts! I just decided that while experimenting and testing I would leave fan control off mainly for consistency -- one less variable to factor in.

Now that leads me to more questions:

Whatever mechanism(s) the mobo BIOS uses to control fans, whether specifying the Intel or Legacy (what the heck is that, anyway?) options, only operates the stock Intel heat sink fan in a range of about 600rpm to maybe 1100rpm** even when core temps are in the 60's. When fan controll is OFF, it tears along at just over 2000 rpm. Why doesn't the BIOS fan control use any of the range between 1100rpm** and 2000rpm? It seems to constantly nudge the speed up and down within a narrow 650-950 rpm range a lot, but nothing higher than 1100rpm that I've seen.

Also, I can not get SpeedFan, either v.4.33 with the 15° adjustment applied to the core temps, nor v.4.34beta with the temps properly reported, to consistently control fan speeds. I can manually reduce the fan speeds but when an temp rise invokes a corresponding fan speed increase, it never drops back down to a lower speed when the target temp is reached.

Is there any definitive answer to where the non-core temp readings are taken by SpeedFan on this mobo? Obviously core0 and core1 are the internal chip sensors, and there is one sensor that always shows something like -2° on my system, and I wonder if that's a flaky hdd temp reading?, but the other two: I read someplace where the C2D chip has a third sensor somewhere outside the cores -- is that correct? And, the other temp sensor I've heard speculation that it is the Northbridge temp -- is that correct?

Thanks again to all for your knowledge and your patience.

edited to add:

**I just set the fan speed control back to Auto in BIOS, core voltage back to 1.35v, and ran two instances of Orthos and I did see the CPU fan momentarily creep up to 1305rpm with core temps at 61°. But, not anywhere between there and 2000rpm.

I failed to mention that one of my case fans remains in a tight range of 1135-1160rpm with fan speed control set to Auto in BIOS. It roars (growls, too) to 1575-1600rpm when fan speed control is disabled.

Also, I just RTFM'd and saw under Smart FAN Control Method > Intel(R) QST:
"...This feature requires the installation of Intel Host Embedded Control Interface (HECI) driver from the motherboard driver disk."

Since I didn't recall doing that before, I navigated the Gigabyte CD and found the HECI directory, clicked on Setup.exe and got the following error:

"This computer does not meet the minimum requirements for installing the software. Setup will exit."

Is Intel QST supported on this mobo? If so, is the HECI driver required? And, if so, how do I install HECI?

 

[mrfatboy]

@honolululu
RT 2.06 does not have the TEST button anymore.

@conjugal
Obcessing? If you call wanting RT 2.06 to work properly and trying to figure why it doesn't "obcessing", then I guess I am :laugh: I'm not the only one that it's not working for either. There are more posts calling out this issue. RT 2.06 OC'ing obviously works for some people and not others. Unfortunately, I'm one of the others right now And yes, it sort of pisses me off I have learned long ago when something doesn't work right in your system it could be indicitive of a bigger problem (driver issues, etc) and left unchecked possibly creates more problems down the road.

I did play around with atitool, ntune, & the rivatuner hardware monitor. When I set the OC in atitool and ntune it DOES show up in the RT HW monitor but not when I set it using RT. That's the bizarre problem. Somebody suggested that the problem might be the installation of the nvidia drivers themselves. When my system crashed this week, windows got reinstalled and also the nvidia drivers. I don't think I properly unistalled the drivers before reinstalling them. It was suggested also to reinstall RT after that. Something that I will try.

I did not realize that the shader clock was linked to the core clock. I was thinking RT added shader clock adjustability for a reason and I wanted to see if I could push my vid card higher. Well, it turns out after doing some surfing and obcessing on the subject this morning that this whole shader clock adjusting thing nets you almost nothing anyways. I found an article that benchmarked games while adjusting the shader clock on the 8800 GTS 640 & 8600GT. Results --- Zip, Nada, Nothing, Zilch! I guess I will just have to settle with my 12806 3dmark06 score

BTW, I knew about the 2d/3d core linking problem. It just wasn't my problem.

So what have we learned here today, kiddies?

1) RT 2.06 does not work for all people. If it doesn't work for you it probably means something else is not working in your system. When I find it I will let you know

2) Shader clock is automatically adjusted when you adjust the core clock.

3) Adjusting the shader clock beyond normally what it already does basically nets you no performance increase.

4) Mrfatboy does not give up until the fat lady sings. She has now sung on this topic


Sorry for the OP topic detour. Maybe I should change the title to E6750, P35C-DS3R, 8800GTS Overclocking thread :laugh:

 

[honolululu]

Originally posted by: mrfatboy
@honolululu
RT 2.06 does not have the TEST button anymore.

Erm, yeah, that's what I meant. Don't forget there is no test button feature now.
Twas on the piss last night (can't believe I just said that) celebrating U of Hawaii's squeaker of a victory. :beer:

 

[mrfatboy]

FYI, for anybody that is interested. I put in my second set of 2gig ballistix (Total of 4gig). My computer wouldn't even POST at 3.6 (my sig settings). I didn't really want to bother trying to get it to work at 3.6 so I yanked them out.

3.6 is more important to me than 4gigs (3.2gigs under XP 32bit, actually )

 

[mrfatboy]

FYI...Bios update. I got this info over in tweaktown. Anyone care to fry their ram with F7

Oh, and I love how it says "some motherboards"...... great quality control.


--------------------------------------------------------------------
There's an F7 for the P35C-DS3R on the international site:

http://www.giga-byte.com/Support/Mot...ProductID=2551

F7 2007/11/13 1. Fix : Some motherboards do not allow the DDR2 voltage to be increased to 0.4V in a high-temperature environment.


Oh, and the voltages are still all wacky in F7

+0.3 => 2.128
+0.4 => 2.400
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

[Conjugal Visit]

Originally posted by: mrfatboy



Oh, and the voltages are still all wacky in F7

+0.3 => 2.128
+0.4 => 2.400
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I tried it this afternoon, hoping it would provide some undervolt at idle. Alas, no, and I went back yet again to F2.

Those voltages, tho - +0.2 yields 2.13v on my board, with my ram....I believe I checked that on the F7 as well.

 

[wpcoe]

Originally posted by: Conjugal Visit

Originally posted by: mrfatboy
Oh, and the voltages are still all wacky in F7

+0.3 => 2.128
+0.4 => 2.400
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I tried it this afternoon, hoping it would provide some undervolt at idle. Alas, no, and

I went back yet again to F2.

Those voltages, tho - +0.2 yields 2.13v on my board, with my ram....I believe I checked

that on the F7 as well.

Okay, speaking of "wacky voltages," I just purchased DDR2 800 RAM and am starting from scratch. After unsuccessful attempts at overclocking with Orthos errors I notice that the mobo is over-volting my RAM to 2.0v with everything at defaults. The KingRam web site document says my RAM is spec'd to 1.8v ±0.1v.

I used the following process:

Using F2 BIOS, clicked "Load Optimized Defaults"
**reboot**

Modfied the following:
...First Boot: Hard disk
...Second Boot: Floppy
...Full Screen Logo show: Disabled
...Initial Display: PEG
...EIST: Disabled
**reboot**

...CPU-Z still showed the multiplier at 6 on idle, and 8 on load with corresponding voltages of 1.152v (6x) and 1.296v (8x).
...SpeedFan showing RAM voltage as 2.0v
**reboot**

...C1E: Disabled
**reboot**

...CPU-Z now showed multiplier at 8 at all times with voltage of 1.296v-1.152v
...SpeedFan still shows RAM voltage as 2.0v

**Flash to F5 BIOS, verified BIOS settings same as previous in F2**
...CPU-Z and SpeedFan showing same as above

I know others are reporting over-voltages when increasing the RAM volts, but I am showing it over-volted a full 0.2v at default.

Questions:
(1) Is SpeedFan usually considered reliable for reporting RAM voltage?
(2) Is there any way to *lower* the RAM voltage?
(3) Should I even be concerned about the RAM voltage being over spec?

Many thanks!

Edited to add:
Forgot to mention above that my KingMax RAM (KLDD48F-A8KB5) is on the list of RAM approved by Gigabyte for this mobo.

On a lark I downloaded the new F7 BIOS and guess what? IT FIXED THE RAM OVER-VOLTING PROBLEM!!!

On the F7 BIOS PC Health Status Page it now shows RAM voltage @ 1.872v, and SpeedFan reports it as 1.87v.

To make sure, I re-flashed back to F5 BIOS and sure enough, both PC Health Status and SpeedFan reported 2.0v. Flashed back to F7, and reported as 1.87(2)v.

Not sure if the earlier BIOSes were simply mis-reporting the voltage, or if something in F7 fixed a true over-volting problem, but I'm satisfied now, even though it seems that it is still overvolting by .07v -- that is within the RAM's spec.

 

[Conjugal Visit]

@wpcoe - I noticed you've been monitoring your voltages and applying EIST and C1E to reduce vcore and multipliers at idle. Your experience with the F2 bios mirrors mine on my GA-P35C-DS3R - you get a nice vcore reduction to 1.152 when the multiplier is reduced at idle to x6. Do you get the same thing happening with F5 or F7. In my case, my multipliers are changed in later bios versions, but no voltage decrease. Could you look at that and post?

I can't find the KingRam website. I can find a KingMax site, but it doesn't have a product section for Ram. Google did turn up a quickie review on your Ram (searched for your model number).

My suggestion is this: if you are certain that your Ram is specified to run at 1.8-1.9v at stock speeds - which appears to be 400mhz @ 5-5-5-15 - then a nice, modest, cool running overclock is going to be pretty easy to implement. Let's set up your overclock this way:

MB Intelligent Tweaker (MIT) - page 7

Robust Graphics Booster - Auto
CPU Clock Ratio - 8X
CPU Host Clock Control - enabled
CPU Host Frequency - 400
PCI Express Frequency - 101
C.I.A. 2 - disabled
System Memory Multiplier - 2.00
Memory Frequency - 800
High Speed DRAM DLL Settings - Option 1
Performance Enhance - Turbo
DRAM Timing Selectable - Manual
CAS Latency Time - 5
DRAM RAS# to CAS# Delay - 5
DRAM RAS# Precharge - 5
Precharge Delay(tRAS) - 15
ACT to ACT Delay(tRRD) - Auto
Rank Write to Read Delay - Auto
Write to Precharge Delay - Auto
Refresh to ACT Delay - 0
Read to Precharge Delay - Auto
tRD - Auto
tRD Phase Adjustment - Auto
System Voltage Control - Manual
DDR2/DDR3 Overvoltage Control - Normal
PCI-E Overvoltage Control - Normal
FSB Overvoltage Control - Normal
(G)MCH Overvoltage Control - Normal
CPU Voltage Control - 1.36250V
Normal CPU Voltage - 1.35000V

The above settings do the following:

1. You are running your Ram at DDR2-800 - stock speed and stock timings
2. You are running your Ram in synchronous mode with your CPU - 1:1 ratios - shown as 2.00 in the Award bios
3. You are manually controlling vcore (CPU) voltage - Normal should be 1.3500 - you're bumping it up two steps to 1.36250v

Net effect - your CPU will be overclocked to 3.2GHz - 400mhz x 8 = 3.2GHz. Ram running stock. The intel heatsink will be more than up to the task of cooling the CPU at that speed and voltage. You seem to have plenty of ventilation, etc.

In a perfect world, you would do the following, and then call it a day:

Find Memtestx86, let it load to a floppy, set your bios to First Boot: Floppy, and then allow MemTest to test your ram. Three complete cycles should be fine with no errors. Budget about an hour for this - each cycle approx. 20 minutes. After 3 cycles, hit ESC, you'll begin a reboot, hit DELETE, enter setup and change back your First Boot to Hard Drive, etc...

You should enter Vista, no problems. Using Core Temp 0.95.4 to monitor temps, start Orthos and test. Your temp range during testing will vary from 40-44C at idle, to 65-72C under stress - all perfectly normal, especially with the Intel heatsink. Again, I would be surprised if you can't run error-free. If you do, call it quits, go back into bios and apply EIST and C1E to manage your power at idle. And you're done. A 20% CPU overclock to 3.2GHz. No need to go further, especially with system components.

So you know, I am doing the exact same thing on the "Family" computer downstairs. DDR2-800 ram, an E6750, a GA-P35-DS3R, stock Intel cooler, 2-120mm fans in an Antec SLK-3700-BQE, and I can hardly even hear the rig running unless the hard drive is being accessed. Only difference is I'm running a little better Ram - Corsair C4 - timings at 4-4-4-12 - and I've set the DDR2 voltage at 2.1v (spec). Also, I've left vcore at stock - 1.35000v.

Assuming everything goes alright with my suggestions there, the last "tweak" would be trying to reduce your vcore one step at a time, test, etc. You might well end up being able to run 3.2GHz at stock vcore voltage as well.

Let me know how you do. Have fun!

Regards,

 

[mrfatboy]

Originally posted by: Conjugal Visit

Originally posted by: mrfatboy



Oh, and the voltages are still all wacky in F7

+0.3 => 2.128
+0.4 => 2.400
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I tried it this afternoon, hoping it would provide some undervolt at idle. Alas, no, and I went back yet again to F2.

Those voltages, tho - +0.2 yields 2.13v on my board, with my ram....I believe I checked that on the F7 as well.

Did you verify that F7 voltting the ram at 2.4v with the +.4 setting? I can't believe gigabyte would let F7 out like this. I guess I'll wait for F8

 

[wpcoe]

@Conjugal Visit: My apologies about the brand name of the RAM. I had it wrong in my sig. It is KingMax RAM, and the spec sheet is: KingMax datasheet, and the voltage spec is on page 2.

I'm four hours into an Orthos stress test that I'm going to let run overnight (it's 100am here now) so I can't get to the BIOS to match my settings to yours.

I do know that the BIOS screens are different in F7 than the ones in F2 that I was so intimately acquainted with. I'm not sure if the changes were incremental, since I only used F5 to check the RAM voltage, and I never used the other BIOSes. Off the top of my head, I can think of a couple changes:

[ctrl+F1] is no longer necessary to "unhide" the "advanced" overclocking options. They are visible full-time. [ctrl+F1] at the main screen still causes a screen flicker, but I didn't notice any resultant change on the other pages.

The speed fan control option now just has two choices to enable it or not. Gone are the "Intel QST" and "Legacy" options.

Tomorrow morning I'll run through the BIOS settings item by item like you have detailed above and see how they match. You and I seem to be on the same path to overclock to 3.2Ghz (400 x 8) and run the RAM 1:1 with FSB.

The configuration currently being stress tested is just that, I have EIST and C1E currently disabled, CPU voltage is set to 1.275v, and all other voltages are "Normal." I orginally tried to volt the CPU at 1.25 like I had with the slower RAM, but Orthos choked. Hence I'm currently at 1.275v.

My preoccupation with lowering the voltages is to lower the temps. It gets hot enough in here without a space heater at my feet. When I originally ran the stress test with the voltages all set to "Normal" the SpeedFan charts would show lots of spikes up to 62° and even occasionally 63°. The current stress test has never gone above 58°. Not bad for the stock Intel heatsink/fan!

CPU-z shows the RAM at 1:1 and 5-5-5-18, which is what the SPD table shows for 400 Mhz.

BTW, we even have similar (same?) cases. I have a LianLi PC60 Plus. Mine is black with an 8cm exhaust fan at the top, a 12cm exhaust fan on the side (over the PCI slots), a 12cm fan intake fan in front of the drive cage, and a 8cm intake fan behind the processor with a "hood" to channel the air directly to the CPU. Since I heard so much about the northbridge running hot, I angled the hood so the airflow is directed at it, too.

More to follow in the morning after I can compare your recommendations to what I currently am testing.

[Edited to correct the voltages I had stress tested and the model # of my LianLi case, and to add:

Just now the Orthos stress test failed, so I'm going to next test CPU voltage at 1.3v. I had forgotten about Memtest-86'ing the RAM, so I'm doing that now, then will start the Orthos again and maybe get to bed finally?)]

 

[honolululu]

@Conjugal Visit and everyone else.
Does your VID change in CoreTemp 0.95.4 when you speedstep down and what does it drop to?

Mine goes from 1.3500V to 1.1875V.

@wpcoe Good news on the new BIOS voltages for your RAM.

 

[Conjugal Visit]

@honolululu - how do and thanks for the info re: rivatuner - much appreciated.

In Core temp 0.95.4, running the F2 bios, my VID at load is 1.2875 and at idle it falls to 1.0750. This is surely what allows my vcore to fall to 0.963 in CPU-Z at idle. It's why I hang onto the F2 - and I've tried them all. One thing the F2 bios doesn't well is fan regulation. My heatsink is PWM capable, but the F2 never drops rpm below 1500 or so. I've made a personal decision that core temps around 42C at idle are just dandy, and these can be maintained at rpms around 650-900, which is pretty quiet. So I use - are you ready? - Easytune 5 to regulate the CPU fan. Almost no overhead that I can see, and it doesn't effect stability or my overclock at all. Now I wouldn't use it to overclock or anything like that, but for CPU fan regulation, it's perfect. The motherboard does a decent job regulating speed at Sys 2. Sys 1 has no regulation as far as I can tell. And I use a Zalman Fanmate for my fourth fan. Nice and quiet, and temps are comfy.

Regards,

 

[Conjugal Visit]

@wpcoe - the 60BPlus II - right? 2-120mm and 2-80mm? I can't find a 60B Plus... Don't you love this case? Perfect size, very classy looking, and one of the best build experiences I could ever hope to have. I was just astonished how everything fit so well together - sturdy, tight tolerances, love the thumb screws, and the quality of the metal, both the steel and the alu. I couldn't cross thread or strip something if I tried. Mine has the window, and I love it.

Regards,

 

[egrimisu]

What shall i be concerned voltage over 1.5v or temp over 60c

If the cpu temps never go over 63 and the mobo temp never 50 my pc will last like without OC?

 

[biltong]

@mrfatboy - you're right about those RAM voltages in F7. They seem to have really messed with the settings:

+0.0: 1.87V
+0.1: 1.87V
+0.2: 2.13V
+0.3: 2.13V
+0.4: 2.40V

So some big jumps. No way to get the 2.26V you get with F4/F6 +0.3

Also, did anyone notice that the the Fan Control has changed in F6/F7:

With the F4 Bios, I get the following:

Voltage Control: Idle 28C/33C (513 RPM) Load 55C/56C (1896 RPM)
PWM Control: Idle 26C/31C (1043 RPM) Load 54C/54C (2177 RPM)

With the F6/F7 Bios, I get the following:

Voltage Control: Idle 28C/33C (190 RPM) Load 57C/57C (1375 RPM)
PWM Control: Idle 30C/34C (259 RPM) Load 57C/58C (1424 RPM)

Basically, they seem to have slowed the fan at all temperatures.

And, can't remember if this has been mentioned before, but the strange option for High Speed DRAM DLL Settings (Option 1/Option 2) has disappeared....probably no bad thing as no-one really seemed to know what that was for.

 

[pcmax]

Okay just dropped an E6750 into my P35C to replace a E4500 that my brother wants to buy.

450x8=3.6ghz at 1.45vcore prime95 stable for an hour. 2x1gb OCZ PC6400 at 2.1v. Using a cheap aftermarket coolermaster heatsink and my load temps reach 73c so I am going to have to get something better.

Oh and lastly 3dmark06 score of 13,280 with an 8800GT

 

[Conjugal Visit]

Originally posted by: pcmax
Okay just dropped an E6750 into my P35C to replace a E4500 that my brother wants to buy.

450x8=3.6ghz at 1.45vcore prime95 stable for an hour. 2x1gb OCZ PC6400 at 2.1v. Using a cheap aftermarket coolermaster heatsink and my load temps reach 73c so I am going to have to get something better.

Oh and lastly 3dmark06 score of 13,280 with an 8800GT

And you're in hog heaven, yeah? Nice processor / nice board. Easy overclock.

 

[mrfatboy]

Originally posted by: pcmax


Oh and lastly 3dmark06 score of 13,280 with an 8800GT

I hate you :laugh:



@biltong
Yeah, it looks like they really messed them up. I can't believe their are going to leave it like this. It sounds like they are just begining to realize they have a voltage regulation problem with this board. The problem is that the "problem" is not with all the boards. Its a crap shoot to which bios works best for your board.

 

[Conjugal Visit]

@honolululu - thank you and thank you! Overclocking AND fan control works!! As to your question to me re: the RT server and startup? When you get it started within Hardware Monitoring, you'll see a new RT icon in your tray (the cog with an arrow.) Right click it and choose setup, then "Run at Windows startup." So long ATITool - hello integrated solution. Thanks for taking the trouble, lu.

Regards,

 

[mrfatboy]

I know all of you are dieing to know if I ever got overclocking working with Rivatuner 2.06.

Well, it now works. I can OC in Rivatuner like everybody else Oh the joy!

The fix was what I was thinking a couple of posts ago. Yes, Mrfatboy was too lazy to unistall his 169.04 video drivers before he installed new 169.09 driver. I just unistalled, used driver sweeper, and reinstalled. It was that simple.

Everybody can go to sleep now

Did the new F8 bios come out yet while I was dealing with that problem? :laugh:

 

[Conjugal Visit]

@mrfatboy - I'm pleased you were able to get it going. It really is, err, elegant using one program to control fans and overclock. And I love the fact it 3D detects, loads the O/C, and then unloads. I love it.