EPoX "EP-9NPA+Ultra" NVIDIA nForce4 ULTRA Chipset Motherboard

[aboothman]

Mine worked with an Opteron 170 at first boot....it shipped with the latest BIOS

As for the Zalman, it only cost like $6, and it looks cool

 

[Fallengod]

Anyone know if the SI-120 works fine with this mobo? I know the xp-120 doesnt.

 

[aboothman]

I have read most of this thread, and searched for info yep found little, so I will ask here.

I an pretty confused on the temp and voltage readings on this board, the 9NPA+ Ultra. How accurate is the CPU voltage and temp readings?
On my K8N Neo2 I could get my 170 Opty to 2.7 with 1.4-1.425 volts, stable on both cores. On this board, I can get to 2.5 with a +.05 bump. Auto setting is 1.4-1.42
as a few others have mentioned. I could get higher I am sure, but with my voltage reading 1.44-1.5 I am very hesitant. I have read that the board could be
overvolting, or just reading as much as .1 volts high. A .1 high reading would explain my limited OC results, especially it the 1.4 reading is really 1.3, thus giving me 1.35
with the .05 bump.

This is also dependant on how accurate the Neo2 was with readings, although it seemed to default to 1.35 and the reading was very close to this, so I assume it was fairly accurate.

I would also like to know how to get a true reading using a multi-meter.

On the posative, my OCZ 2x1024 sticks seem to OC better on this board, reaching about 263 with 2.8 volts.

 

[FSamir]

Did latest official BIOS solved USB problems...expiriences in general ?

I didn't manage to gain allmost any performance increase with 1T for cmd rate on original 9npa5302.bin (02 Mar 2005). I think this is because with original BIOS there isn't option to enable 'DRAM Bank Interleaving' and 1T cmd rate without interleaving hardly makes a difference...

 

[gfngfgf]

Yeah, I've been using the latest BIOS, dated 4/18/06, and I haven't had any USB2 issues.

 

[liqnit]

hi
i Updated teh BIOS to 4/18/06 because i wanted to use the 183 mhz divider for the memory.
since then i had several carshes while playing Oblivion.
the crash caused the screen to freeze and even pressing the reset button didn't fix it completely - it bbotted into the BIOS screen the but the display was all full with srtifacts.
i had to manually shutdown the computer
to fix it.

I don't OC my VGA card & i updated the BIOS while all parameters on auto.
the crash wasn't relaeted to haevy use in oblivion just loading the game .

it is not consistent problem but i am worried.

 

[unbot]

it's 4am and i can't get this new build to POST....help?!?

on powerup, it starts up with post code FF. cpu and dimm LEDs on mobo light up but chipset one turns on and then immediately goes off. anybody seen this before? should i assume the board is DOA?

i have the mobo set up outside of the case on a piece of cardboard (just to check if a short is causing this...even removed the small blue heatsinks that come with mobo) and reduced the setup to only bare minimum connected on it (power sw, 24 and 4pin power to mobo, cpu/heatsink/fan, vid card + power connector, 1 stick ram, master HDD).

please help! i don't know if i'll be able to sleep tonight......

 

[sgtdic]

i've never heard of someone having that prob, but i know what it is. either your chipset is bad or it is not functioning right. safe to say it is DOA. i would start your RMA process.
good luck

 

[Fallengod]

Originally posted by: unbot

FF is a good code actually. Check the manual, it lists all the codes. It means fully functional.

In terms of what your problem is. Its hard to figure out someone elses problem over the internet but... Got everything wired correctly? I am not sure what would cause a mobo chipset light to go on then off right away. Got a good power supply?

 

[unbot]

doesn't it usually cycle through before getting to FF? i've been reading that people say it's either means it's fully functional or fatal failure. the manual just says FF means boot attempt. mine starts off immediately with FF at powerup and stays there, even if i don't put any memory on.

so this is what i've tried:
-reseated the cpu (looks fine and fan spins)
-checked chipset fan (fan spins and it looks normal)
-used 1 and 2 sticks ram in multiple slots (dimm LED lights up, altho it lights up even if i don't put any ram on there, which is somewhat odd to me)
-cleared CMOS by jumper and returned to default. also cleared by removing battery for 10min.

i've been trying to dig up things and this is what i found from a review at newegg:

Diagnostics said it died.
Comments: Installed everything and the computer wouldn't turn on. The on-board error diagnostic said it was the mother board chip set. There are even supposed to be 3 LED's, processor, memory and chipset and I only had processor and memory lights. Bad board. Bad customer support.

and this is a post by someone who's having the same problem:
http://www.techspot.com/vb/topic50696.html

hopefully it's just a bad mobo in this case cause i'd hate to RMA and find out it's something else...

-------
x2 3800
Epox 9npa+ ultra
Patriot 2GB (2 x 1GB) 184-Pin DDR SDRAM Dual Channel
Antec SLK3000b
Seasonic S12-500
EVGA 7900gt

 

[sgtdic]

yes, its supposed to cycle through and get to FF. So yes, FF is a good code IF it cycles through, POSTS and gets to it. other than that its fatal. do an RMA like i recommended before. you just got bad luck this time and got a bad board.

it could also be your RAM. have you tried a different kind/brand? i tried some ram in an ibm i have yesterday and i couldnt even get to the bios, just black screen. not likely since your chipset led is out, but worth a shot if you have other ram. seems i have read before, that maybe, someone else had trouble with patriot ram.

 

[unbot]

thanks for the reply guys.

i just now tried a different stick of ram that i know works. same issue. patriot ram gets mixed reviews but i can't imagine both sticks i got are bad.

everything seems to point to the mobo. only other thing i can think of is the psu, although if all the fans are moving, i'm guessing that shouldn't be it.

i think it's RMA time like you suggested sgtdic. hope the next one doesn't have the same problem...

------------
x2 3800
Epox 9npa+ ultra
Patriot 2GB (2 x 1GB) 184-Pin DDR SDRAM Dual Channel
Antec SLK3000b
Seasonic S12-500
EVGA 7900gt

 

[Podunk]

Totally concur with sgtdic--instant FF is bad, belated FF is good. See my posts couple pages back re using Opty 146 I had instant FF and nothing came up (like you I even tried it out of case to rule out shorts, different RAMs, etc.). Ended up RMAing. New board comes up great on ordinary value ram. Each time it powers up, it cycles through a number of codes, which I assume indicates various checks it's making, and ultimately comes to rest at FF and commences booting.

 

[bwanaaa]

instant FF can be produced if a pci card is not fully seated.

 

[unbot]

just sent it back for RMA. seriously praying that the replacement will be fine as the RMA set me back $14 bux to ship (and i am cheap).

ya bwanaaa, i must've reseated everything a gazillion times hoping that maybe one time it'll miraculously work. ram, vid card, and cpu/heatsink/fan....you name it, i've reseated and replugged it! now i probably have to get some fresh thermal cmpd cause the stuff on the heatsink is probably drying up as i'm waiting for the replacement. bah!

 

[teddyv]

here is a weird one - I removed the pata ribbon going to my opticals and the board would not post. I put it back and it works perfectly. Any ideas why?

 

[BigCoolJesus]

Does anyone know the max FSB/HTT this board can reach for overclocking?

 

[Allio]

Depends on your board. My SLI gets to 370.

 

[Ultralight]

Can anyone help to get a clue as to why my motherboard failed to boot into Windows?

Last night we had severe electrical storms that lasted into today. I decided that after losing a major electrical appliance to the last storm we experirnced I wasn't going to take any chances -- especially since this is a new build.

So, I decided to pull the plug on the surge protector and wait for the storms to pass. Yes, I shut down the computer completely before I did so. When I put the plug back into the socket the computer started up but hung at the EPoX logo screen and froze there.

I tried restarting three tiimes with the same results. I was able to get into the BIOS and decided to go through and set everything at default settings. The thing is I didn't mess with the BIOS since its first boot and I haven't overclocked anything.

There were no POST beeps. When it was hung the POST screen read 49.

When I entered the default settings it then booted into Windows. The only difference that I now see is the logo screen. Instead of taking up the entire screen in is now smaller and shifted to the right with a second logo showing at the bottom (not full, just the first few inches.

Anyone have a clue? Was I wrong to unpulg the surge protector? Again, the computer was fully shut down before I did this. Thanks in advance.

 

[heimlich]

Originally posted by: modempower
Does anyone here know if the arctic freezer 64 pro fits with this mobo?

Yes, it fits. It feels very close to the memory banks, but it has clearance. I think it's just the heatspreaders on the RAM that are a little high. You will need to install your memory sticks first (unless you move the mb out of the case).

 

[Davegod]

This board still have the +0.1v thing on some CPU's with the 18th April 06 BIOS? Speedfan is telling me the vcore is at 1.49 on my San Diago 3700+, which should be 1.4v i think? Am going to turn it down 0.05v but thought I'd better check.

Incidentally CPU-Z is trying to tell me the voltage is 2.6v, while Speedfan is trying to say the 3.3v is at 1.52?

 

[sgtdic]

ya, it's got different voltage settings. you must have your vcore on auto. it's said this board gives it extra juice on auto. i took mine down a bit but for the longest i just left it; there is no problem.

i feel ya on the voltage thing. they all say different for me too, even with different power supplies. so basically i don't trust any of them. my $35 cooler master 430 psu is just as good as my antec tp2 550 in voltage and weight. i didn't notice any difference in the voltage readings when i changed them out. also notice that speedfan does not list epox as a brand of mobo on one of its tabs.

 

[liqnit]

mine is working with -0.1 and is now on 1.38
when i put on Auto i get 1.48v which is too high for my liking
and i am working 400Mhz OC
A64 3200+ @ 2.4Ghz.

i have a problem with the spdif out - i am using ONLY the nvidia Audio driver and nop Spdif out sound.
Do i have to install the Realtek drivers or do i miss somthing?

 

[unbot]

my replacement mobo worked like a charm and everything looks good. now that i look at the working board, i remember the previous DOA one had a bent resistor probably from the shipping. anyways, i'm guessing it was damaged in shipping so i'll forgive epox for this one!

gotta love it when the 3 blue leds light up! thanks to all those who helped! i'm sure i'll have plenty of questions to come.

 

[Viremia]

Has anyone used this motherboard with a KVM switch?

I've got an IOGear USB KVM switch that worked on my previous computer just fine. However, when I hook the keyboard and mouse (both USB) into the KVM and then the single USB cable into the computer with the Epox motherboard, the mouse and keyboard don't work. I get no mouse movement and very little response from the keyboard.

The other side of the KVM is connected to a Mac Mini, BTW.

Like I said, it worked with my previous computer using the same mouse (MX1000) and keyboard (S510 - not using the included mouse). It has never worked with the newer system with any of the BIOS revisions or Nforce drivers.

Any idea what's wrong or why it would work with one system but not the Epox system?