Failed inspection Knock Sensor

[Insomniator]

Just took my mini to get inspected, failed with code P0326 which is a knock sensor issue.

Now... the CEL light comes on and off randomly... I'm sure its just this stupid sensor. Can I just reset the code and clear the history with my phone from my ODB Scanner and bring it back to get inspected? Do they do anything special to 'know' I faked it?

Apparently replacing the sensor is like a 5 hour job, I really don't feel like shelling out 500 bucks just to pass inspection.

 

[tortillasoup]

google the issue to see if it's really the sensor or some other cheaper, easier issue to repair. The issue may also be covered under warranty for example. As for doing a reset, that won't work because there are drive cycle tests that have to be conducted and every time you reset, it resets those. It takes many miles for the drive cycle tests to be conducted.

 

[Meghan54]

I'd check how your state does its emissions test...some states require X number of starts/miles pass since the last clearing of codes before it'll pass. Don't know what Jersey requires, but it may be something to investigate prior to doing what you suggest.

 

[NutBucket]

Yeah, you can't do that because of the readiness monitors. Those exist specifically to prevent this kind of cheating LOL.

 

[slag]

Just took my mini to get inspected, failed with code P0326 which is a knock sensor issue.

Now... the CEL light comes on and off randomly... I'm sure its just this stupid sensor. Can I just reset the code and clear the history with my phone from my ODB Scanner and bring it back to get inspected? Do they do anything special to 'know' I faked it?

Apparently replacing the sensor is like a 5 hour job, I really don't feel like shelling out 500 bucks just to pass inspection.

That's the price of car ownership. Fix it.

 

[Raizinman]

Did you have the ECM unplugged for any reason? It is very common to bend pins #7 and #8 when plugging and unplugging in the ECM harness. If bent, straighten carefully and this should solve the problem. These are the pins directly related to the knock sensor.

Otherwise, you might try using premium gas and see if that helps.

 

[Torn Mind]

Could be just the sensor or it could be the harness as well depending on the vehicle.

 

[zerocool84]

Yeah, you can't do that because of the readiness monitors. Those exist specifically to prevent this kind of cheating LOL.

This

Get it fixed, or get an illegal smog, or drive around illegally with no registration. No other way around it.

If you're just semi handy, most sensors are easily replaced. I obviously don't know how involved replacing this sensor on your particular car is but you should check it out to see how involved it is to replace it.

 

[bruceb]

It is a somewhat involved job to get to on the Mini ... says about 4 hours and apparently the Intake Manifold must come off to get to it. You should be able to do it yourself with normal tools and a torque wrench for reassembly. More info in the link below:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...lacement/91-FUEL-Knock_Sensor_Replacement.htm

 

[sontakke]

Let me get this; you had ability to read the OBD code but you still took it for inspection without making sure you will pass the inspection? If you are interested in actually using the OBD scanner, I will give you detailed instruction on how to make the best use of it to pass the inspection.

Do you now currently have rejected sticker on the car? Does the state know that you have failed the emission i.e. your visit has been recorded in the state database or the person doing the inspection told you that you will NOT pass the inspection and he did not record that.

Rules are different when you appear for re-test after getting rejection. Which state?

 

[Insomniator]

Let me get this; you had ability to read the OBD code but you still took it for inspection without making sure you will pass the inspection? If you are interested in actually using the OBD scanner, I will give you detailed instruction on how to make the best use of it to pass the inspection.

Do you now currently have rejected sticker on the car? Does the state know that you have failed the emission i.e. your visit has been recorded in the state database or the person doing the inspection told you that you will NOT pass the inspection and he did not record that.

Rules are different when you appear for re-test after getting rejection. Which state?

New Jersey, and I haven't used the thing in years, its just one of those 15 dollar toy ones.

I don't know, I didn't realize a check engine light sticker is instant fail and yes I have a fail sticker Guess I should have waited for a time it was OFF, like it is every other ride.

 

[NutBucket]

Could still have a stored code even if the light is off.

 

[LTC8K6]

Could still have a stored code even if the light is off.

Yep, the light being off doesn't mean there are no codes.

 

[Scarpozzi]

New Jersey, and I haven't used the thing in years, its just one of those 15 dollar toy ones.

I don't know, I didn't realize a check engine light sticker is instant fail and yes I have a fail sticker Guess I should have waited for a time it was OFF, like it is every other ride.

My car has some kind of vacuum leak that's been making the check engine light go off for years. It was never an issue because I don't deal with emissions testing here. At least with my car, I can make the light go off by unplugging the battery and resetting the computer that way. It eventually comes back on, but the car has to be driven long enough to register the problem. I'm sure there are other issues like that that get logged...just something to think about moving forward.

 

[sontakke]

OK; this is what you do now. Keep the code reader connected all the time. You should be able to look at I/M data. It could be called emission results etc. There are about 6 or 7 of them. When you reset, and restart the car, around 4 of them will say "NOT READY" or "INCOMPLETE" or something similar. Drive the car and every time you restart, read and find how many have transitioned to "COMPLETE" or "SUCCESS". Also make sure you have no pending codes. Since you most likely have 2001 and above model year Mini, you are only allowed 1 incomplete and because you have rejected sticker, that incomplete can NOT be CAT EFFICIENCY. Watch like a hawk and as soon as you have only one incomplete left, drive straight to the inspection station assuming it has not triggered pending code.

If the pending code is there, then you have to figure out why and fix it. It could be sensor or it could be wiring.

If the pending code comes back immediately after reset, then you would NEVER be able to get the sticker without fixing.

 

[bruceb]

Just a bit of info: The OP says he has a cheap $15 code reader, Those very inexpensive ones, can pull a code or delete it. But it will not have the ability to do Readiness Monitors or also what is called Mode 6 (used for misfires) or interactive data reading of sensors.

 

[sontakke]

Heck $5.00 Torque Pro and $10 Chinesium BT OBD adapter and his Android phone also makes cheap code reader

At this stage, he needs a decent reader/scanner if he wants to game the inspection. I just don't see any other way.

 

[nakedfrog]

Did you have the ECM unplugged for any reason? It is very common to bend pins #7 and #8 when plugging and unplugging in the ECM harness. If bent, straighten carefully and this should solve the problem. These are the pins directly related to the knock sensor.

Otherwise, you might try using premium gas and see if that helps.

Yeah, this is cheap enough that it's the first thing I'd suggest.

Just a bit of info: The OP says he has a cheap $15 code reader, Those very inexpensive ones, can pull a code or delete it. But it will not have the ability to do Readiness Monitors or also what is called Mode 6 (used for misfires) or interactive data reading of sensors.

My $20 Bluetooth one does interactive reading of sensors... or I assume so, given that I can use an app to see the current status and display it on a graph (of O2 sensors, coolant temps, intake air temperature, etc).

 

[Insomniator]

I always use Premium, from a BP near me which is top tier (no idea if the tiers actually matter). I'm going to fill up at an Exxon a near my house the next few times. I'll hook up my scanner and see what it can do.

In the end I'll probably just have to bite the bullet and get the damn sensor fixed. I can get the supercharger serviced while its out too. Just annoying because I just spent 1200 on a clutch a few months ago and 250 on brakes. I know those are wear items but I swear it never ends with his car.

I do plan on checking out used Caymans next year so I guess this Mini is preparing me well for luxury/sport maintenance costs :'(

 

[Insomniator]

So I figured out my cheap dongle does check for readiness, and that it does clear the code/light -- just had to have the engine off when clearing. So I cleared the code, and drove it over the weekend until all the sensors showed ready -- brought it in today and passed inspection!

No light yet, wonder when it will return. I did switch gas stations to Exxon (from a BP), wonder if that will keep the light off.

Either way, $500 bucks saved for now.

 

[yoda5]

Nicely done, I used to have a regular CEL that I would clear a few days before inspection and I never had trouble passing, but then again I'm pretty good friends with the guy