Fanless GeForce4: victory at last!

Leo V

Diamond Member
Dec 4, 1999
3,123
0
0
(update--final GPU speed is 225MHz, only 10% reduction)
A picture is worth a thousand words (running at 1.36vcore). The card.

NEW:
Voltage mod close-up
Open case view (what looks like another fan in the PSU is just an emptied fan frame for structural support)

GeForce4 Titanium is NVIDIA's fastest videocard yet--and unfortunately the hottest-running, which is why all of them ship with whiny high-speed fans. Now, I really don't like fans--I prefer peace and quiet. My entire system including PSU is currently cooled by a single 80mm Panaflo fan; and I managed to pull this off with an AthlonXP and now a GeForce4 Ti4200!

I got the Gainward Ti4200 64MB, because 4200 is the cheapest and coolest-running GeForce4. My initial steps, which I have already described here, include obtaining an Alpha PAL6035 copper/aluminum heatsink and Arctic Silver epoxy. I threw away the factory HSF, then lapped the GPU and Alpha surface, then glued on the Alpha. Here is a photo of the modified videocard.

While my fanless GF4 ran just fine with this modification, its temperatures were alarming: with case closed, they ranged from 80 to a scalding 84.0 Celsius under heavy load, with case open! At these temps, the lifetime of the videocard would be significantly shortened. By comparison, my GeForce2 MX (which came without even a heatsink) would get up to 82.0C with case closed. I assume this was a normal temperature for it. I decided to reduce GeForce4's temps well below 80C.

How did I reduce the GeForce4 temps? By reducing the power it consumes, which is achieved by a highly effective combination of reducing GPU core voltage and slighlty underclocking the card. First, about the voltage reduction.

Xbitlabs has a terrific article on how to increase GeForce4 voltage for extreme overclocking. I had to do the opposite--reduce the voltage. My Gainward 4200 uses SC1102 voltage regulator chips (found on the backside of the board); the GPU regulator is the one near the metal mounting bracket. Xbitlabs posts its schematic here. The voltage passed to the GPU equals 1.265*(1+R8/R7) volts, so Xbitlabs added another resistor to R7 in parallel to reduce total resistance, thus increasing the R8/R7 ratio and the resulting voltage. I needed to do the opposite, so I had to find R8 and add another resistor in parallel to it.

First I realised (from the diagram) that Pin 11 was directly connected to one side of R8; I just had to find where its other side was. I bought myself a multimeter and used it to measure the resistors on the board near the SC1102 chip (I assure you, I've never done anything like this before! blahblah99 helped me a lot advising what to do here.) Ultimately, I found R8. Here is the SC1102 chip, and here are R8's two contacts. I also measured, by connecting to SC1102's Ground pin and point B on R8, that the default GPU voltage is 1.64V.

Now I bought some resistors, and, starting from the highest-rated one (100 ohms) soldered its ends to points A and B in the second picture. Lo and behold, the GPU voltage was really decreased!! 100-ohm resistor brought it down to 1.43V; I replaced that with a 68-ohm resistor, which yielded 1.39V, and finally a 47-ohm resistor which gave 1.36Vcore! Since power is proportional to voltage squared, doing this reduced power output by 31%!

The other measure was to underclock the GPU. This would reduce power proportionally to the clockspeed, and (more importantly) make sure the GPU would remain stable at the reduced voltage. From past underclocking experience, I reduced GPU clockspeed to 210MHz, which is almost proportional to the voltage decrease. This is 84% of the default 250MHz, which is still much better performance than any GeForce3 or GeForce4MX out there! Keep in mind that memory is still running at default 513MHz, so bandwidth-limited applications won't see any change.

I then used NVFlash and NVIDIA BIOS editor to make 210MHz the "true" default clockspeed, and made this awesome startup message.

How did my changes pay off? Well, right now my case is closed again, and after heavy load I'm only getting 72.0Celsius, which is 10C lower than the GeForce2MX using its "normal" passive cooling! With case open, we're talking mid-60's. I can attest that undervolting made a VERY noticeable reduction in heat, that you can feel by touching the heatsink. Altogether, assuming my 4200 originally produced 20 watts of heat, now it would be only ~11.6watts, or only 58% of the original!

This proves that the fanless GeForce4 is possible, for anyone determined enough to build one!
Leo
 

vash

Platinum Member
Feb 13, 2001
2,510
0
0
I see the point of running one of the latest video cards without the stock fan, but why? Running the card with a non-stock HSF to o/c better is one thing, but why are you purposely running a uber fast card, underclocked? My ti500 runs hot, but I don't even hear its fans (compared to cpu's HSF), so why bother getting a newer card to try and run it slower than stock?

If sound is a concern, maybe a more rigid and sound shielded case would be in order (or turning off some fans).

vash
 

Leo V

Diamond Member
Dec 4, 1999
3,123
0
0
vash, my entire system uses just 1 fan, a Panaflo rated at 22dB. The videocard fan would be much, much louder. I'll get one of those CALM systems or something, once they mature.

In defense of my choice, out of all fanless possibilities, the modified GeForce4 is definititely the fastest fanless solution I could get.

Thanks hominid, once I glued that Alpha on, there was no going back!
 

Bakwetu

Golden Member
Oct 10, 1999
1,681
0
0
Great work but with all the effort you put into getting a silent system, which I understand fully-I hate noisy computers as well, why not get a watercooled system instead? That is going to be my next step. Then I'll only be needing a quiet papst 120 mm fan or, if I get a large radiator, no fan at all (except for the psu which btw can be watercooled as well)

Right now in my air cooled system (1.2 t-bird@1.46, gf3 ti 200) I have done away with the northbridge fan (replaced by a fanless zalman nbj32), replaced the gpu heatsink (replaced by a socket 7 heatsink and a quiet fan running on 7 V). I use two 80 mm papst 19 db, 26 cmf fans (one for intake and one on my ax-7), a 80 mm zalman on 5V for intake and a 120 mm papst with variable speed for output. The noisiest thing now is the psu fan, which I'll be replacing soon with another papst 19 db.
 

grant2

Golden Member
May 23, 2001
1,165
23
81
man what a bunch of downers!

Good for you Leo V, you put a lot of effort into getting a system you really like! .. Now, you have to figure out how to get rid of that very last fan... =)
 

Leo V

Diamond Member
Dec 4, 1999
3,123
0
0
why not get a watercooled system instead? That is going to be my next step

Me too, I'll probably get the CALM system, which needs no fans at all. Only, it costs $250 and it's more fun to modify the videocard instead
 

Leo V

Diamond Member
Dec 4, 1999
3,123
0
0
You could have saven a lot of time, and brought yourself something like this

tdas2, here's the fine print on that cooler:

"For GeForce 256 DDR, RADEON DDR, and higher classes of video cards, the ZM17-CU must be used with Zalman's FB165(www.zalman.co.kr/english/product/ cnpsvga3.htm"

I suspect it isn't much good on a GF4. In fact it seems to use pure copper instead of aliminum/copper like Alpha, so I doubt it's any better at all. Not to mention, I still have to vent all the heat out of my system.
 

JellyBaby

Diamond Member
Apr 21, 2000
9,159
1
81
Impressive. Most impressive. Anything that reduces noise in modern computing environments is a good thing.
 

SnoopyDog

Senior member
Jun 30, 2000
267
0
0
Leo V do not let all these negative remarks get to you, very well done.

You got big balls.

Or as we say in Danish " store nosser"

Snoop
 

DrVos

Golden Member
Jan 31, 2002
1,085
0
0
Fantastic work Leo V! Don't let these downers get ya, most of the people here consider having 5 panaflos going full blast near silent. HA! They dont realize how much a passively cooled videocard cuts down on overall system noise. May I make a suggestion? Send this bit of ingenuity over to SilentPCReview.com. I am sure they would looove to hear about your adventures in passive cooling. Rock on man!
 

microAmp

Diamond Member
Jul 5, 2000
5,988
110
106
Good job! At first I saw the huge a$$ heatsink on the card and I thought.... WHY? But the saw you wanted a quite computer. Impressive.... 1 fan.

PICS? of it all together? inside? curious what the heatsink looks like.
 

hoihtah

Diamond Member
Jan 12, 2001
5,183
0
76
nice job...
whatever floats your boat.

please don't take this as a rant.

it's just that underclocking the latest and the hottest card for the sake of passive cooling, seems unorthodox.

if reduction of noise was something that you wanted, i would've gone with water cooling.

keep all your components to run as fast as they can, and let them run cool.

that's the idea.
 

Ionizer86

Diamond Member
Jun 20, 2001
5,292
0
76
Leo V, well maybe the next step for ya is to have your comp away from your monitor with a long vga cable? Wouldn't that bring silence? Or what about replacing that Panaflo L1A with the Pabst 12dBa/19.4cfm fan? That'd make your comp about 1/5 as loud, wouldn't it? ;-)
 

Leo V

Diamond Member
Dec 4, 1999
3,123
0
0
Thanks guys

it's just that underclocking the latest and the hottest card for the sake of passive cooling, seems unorthodox

The thing is, I don't see a processor as inherently "hot"--only at the default mhz and voltage. A small decrease in both of these brings about a huge decrease in heat (and higher temperature tolerance, I believe.) So I get both high performance and low heat dissipation. In absolute terms, the best fanless videocard would be the "hottest" Ti4600, because the 4600 chip can work faster at the same voltage compared to the 4200 (i.e. it's a higher quality yield.)

Watercooling isn't silent, it still needs fans somewhere. The CALM system doesn't, I might get it once I have $250 to blow.

sharkeeper, always one step ahead of me (Actually, quite a few steps ahead!)

DrVos, I'll send it over, since I'm confident any enthusiast can replicate my results. If it helps others, all my experimentation time will be the better spent From what I've seen SilentPCReview is one awesome site.

Ionizer86, closet stuffing would be inconvenient in my campus room. I'm going for a simple, cheap and portable solution,
and I don't mind a 16% GPU performance loss (since memory is the same speed, it's actually under 10%). I recoup upgrading costs by selling old components anyway, so I never suffer from poor performance. I'll try Pabst (Tomzilla's own fan, hehe ), but I doubt it's really that much quieter. I had a "16dB" fan which was much, much noisier than the "22dB" Panaflo.

Edit: Case and resistor pics posted, see original message!
 

bluemax

Diamond Member
Apr 28, 2000
7,182
0
0
Originally posted by: Ionizer86
Leo V, well maybe the next step for ya is to have your comp away from your monitor with a long vga cable? Wouldn't that bring silence? Or what about replacing that Panaflo L1A with the Pabst 12dBa/19.4cfm fan? That'd make your comp about 1/5 as loud, wouldn't it? ;-)

Have PC in other room = pain in the ARSE anytime you want to stick a disc in your optical drive. (ROM, RW, DVD...)
And if it's still loud, you can still hear it - even in the closet. :|
Better to kill the noise than "sweep it under the carpet".

Well done on that video mod! I'm with you on the SilentPC project! One of these days I'm gonna' put together my Lil' Rocket(TM) and make it a MicroATX machine that's rather portable but FULL featured! So far my case choice is still the CasperII unless I can find something better. Hope it's not too loud though... Loud PSU fans really bug me! That Shuttle mini-system just plain SUCKS for noise! :|
 
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