FAQ: A starter guide to buying lenses for your Canon digital SLR camera.

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yllus

Elite Member & Lifer
Aug 20, 2000
20,577
432
126
I'm going to ask that this be stickied, considering it's going to be a oft-repeated question in this forum area.

Does anyone want to write a similar thread for Nikon SLR cameras? I have a friend who just picked up a D40 and I'm mostly clueless as to what to recommend.
 

Jawo

Diamond Member
Jun 15, 2005
4,125
0
0
Originally posted by: Entity
Any opinions on the EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM as a walkabout?

I'm considering getting it as a kit lens paired with the 30D. I haven't shot SLR in quite a while, but I do miss it, and am looking at getting 1x Wide Angle (likely the Sigma 10-20mm) and a Telephoto before too long (mostly for photographing Ultimate Frisbee), but I've noticed that I can get the EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM paired with the 30D for about $1300, when the body itself is going to cost me ~$1050.

Should add that regardless of what lens I get "paired" with the body (looking at Amazon right now FWIW since there isn't any gear on Craigslist ), I will be getting the 50mm, a 10-20mm wide angle, and eventually a zoom lens.

Any advice for a beginner getting back into the game would be appreciated.

Rob

Good lens, but 28mm is rather normal on a crop body (42 mm equivelant). Other than that is a great normal to telephoto lens. I have the Tamron 17-50 and the Canon 70-300 IS USM and want to get an ultra wide lens (10-22 or 10-20)
 

GTaudiophile

Lifer
Oct 24, 2000
29,776
31
81
I wrote the following in an e-mail to a friend about a year ago. Might be useful to some. He wanted to buy a DSLR for his GF but didn't know whether to get a Canon PowerShot S3 or Rebel XT...

-------------------------------------------

Well, first of all, the PowerShot S3 is not a DSLR. It's a P&S (point & shoot).

DSLRs = Interchangeable lenses as well as a shutter that opens and closes in front of a sensor. There is no live-preview from the screen. You look into the viewfinder and what you see is what you get. Sort of like old 35mm film cameras. These cameras are larger, more expensive, but much more versatile in terms of shooting speed and ability to focus and shoot in low-light.

P&S = 95% of your digital cameras on the market. They are smaller and cheaper with built-in zoom lenses. You rarely use the viewfinder and usually use the screen to see what the sensor sees, which is often different from what one would see in the viewfinder. These cameras are smaller, cheaper, very good in daylight, but suffer in low-light conditions and/or when speed is necessary.

People choose either portability and price (P&S) or optical quality, accuracy, and speed (DSLR).

When it comes to DSLRs, you basically have two choices, Canon and Nikon. Sort of like Intel and AMD, nVidia and ATI.

For around $1k, your Canon options are the Rebel XT or EOS-20D or its replacement, the EOS-30D. Since the 30D's introduction, one can get better deals on the 20D. The 30D and 20D have more or less the same internals. The 30D is an evolutionary product with a slightly different case and some firmware/software modifications. I personally have a 20D. The Canon Rebel XT has very similar internals as the EOS-20D/30D as well but a plastic case instead of alloy. The Rebel XT is actually a pretty small DSLR, maybe just perfect for smaller, feminine hands, but too small for mine. A hands-on analysis is recommended.

Your Nikon options are the D50 and D70S.

Now, what sets these "entry-level" DSLRs apart from the high-end models? Basically three things: 1) Sensor, 2) Case, 3) Shutter. 1) Canon's Rebel and EOS-20D/30D cameras, along with Nikon's D50/D70S, are APS-C cameras. An APS-C sensor (Crop) is about 40% the size of a Full-Frame (FF) or 35mm-equivalent-sized sensor like you would find on the Canon EOS-5D and higher models. A smaller sensor is cheaper to manufacture obviously. More on this later. 2) High-end models are weather-sealed with rubber gaskets and use stronger, lighter metals. 3) High-end models also have shutters capable of faster speeds with a longer shelf-life.

More on APS-C: Take a look at the image below. If you took a standard 50mm lens and put it on a FF camera, you would get the image in the red box. If you took that same lens and put it on an APS-C camera, because of its smaller sensor size, you would get the image in the blue box, everything else being equal. This is known as the 1.6x crop factor. Meaning, any lens you buy for an APS-C camera, you need to multiply its zoom rating by 1.6 to get its 35mm equivalency. For example, a 28mm lens on a FF camera is a 44.8mm lens on an APS-C. A 50mm lens on an FF camera is an 80mm lens on an APS-C and so on.

*Image Below*

This gets us into lenses. Because APS-C cameras have a smaller sensor/mirror box, manufacturers are making lenses that are smaller and lighter but unfortunately not cheaper. In Canon lingo, these are called EF-S lenses. EF-S lenses will work ONLY on cameras with an EF-S mount such as the Rebel, Rebel XT, EOS-20D, and EOS-30D. Canon currently makes only five EF-S lenses. The rest of the lenses out there are EF lenses, which have been the standard for decades. You can use EF lenses on APS-C cameras as well but cannot use EF-S lenses on FF camera bodies. Nikon uses the term AF-S.

Continuing with lenses: Lenses are the most important and most expensive part of owning a DSLR!!! You can spend $5K on a camera body, but if you spend $100 on a lens, you're gonna get ***** results. So the rule is to spend more on glass than on the body. Bodies come and go but lenses are forever as they say! Finding the right lens is a highly personal decision! What are you going to be shooting? Sports? Fast-action? Weddings? Portraits? Landscapes? Indoor? Outdoor? Unfortunately, there is no one lens that does it all perfectly. Much to the contrary. Hence why dropping $1300-$2000 on one lens is not uncommon. Many people will travel with three such lenses in their bag.

There are many types of lenses, but I will focus on two types and give a few examples of the Canon terminology.

1) Prime lenses (don't zoom): Canon EF 50mm F1.4 USM. (Canon is the manufacturer. It has an EF mount (for APS-C and FF). It has a fixed zoom range of 50mm on FF (80mm equivalent on APS-C). It's got a small aperture of 1.4. (Smaller the number, the wider the lens can open to allow more light inside, allowing for faster shutter speeds in low light situations.) USM is Ultra Sonic Motor; a faster, more accurate auto-focus mechanism for Canon lenses.

2) Zoom lenses: Canon EF-S 17-85 F3.5-4.5 IS USM. (Canon is the manufacturer. It has an EF-S mount (for APS-C only). It has a variable zoom range of 17 to 85mm (27.2mm to 136mm equivalent on APS-C). It's got a variable aperture: F3.5 on the wide end (17mm) and F4.5 on the telephoto end (85mm). It features IS or Image Stabilization which counteracts the movement of shaky hands when shutter speeds are quite low/slow. Again, it has USM auto-focus.

Another example would be the Canon EF 24-105 F4L IS USM. It has an EF mount. Variable zoom range of 24mm to 105mm (38.4mm to 168mm equivalent on APS-C). It has a fixed aperture of F4 at all ranges. It features IS. It features USM. And last but not least it's an "L" lens. L stands for Luxury. These are the really high-end lenses from Canon, denoted by a red stripe around the barrel.

Depending on what you want to shoot, you'll want to look for a certain type of lens. Sports/fast-action: You need low-aperture (F1.4, F1.8, F2.0, F2.8). Same with indoor/low-light. For landscapes you need a wide lens (10-22mm). If you want to shoot birds or animals, you want a good telephoto (70-200mm or 70-300mm). If you want to shoot portraits usually a good prime lens is best. Plan on going without a tripod? Then IS is recommended. Want to buy the best? Buy an "L" lens. Etc.
 

ElFenix

Elite Member
Super Moderator
Mar 20, 2000
102,427
8,388
126
SLRs don't have to have interchangeable lenses.

and i'd say that's a variable focal length rather than a variable zoom range. the zoom range is fixed.

i'd also say it has a variable maximum aperture of f/3.5 on the wide end and f/4.5 on the long end. most lenses have variable apertures.

i'd also say that your recommended lenses for birding are a bit short.
 

dev0lution

Senior member
Dec 23, 2004
472
0
0
I recommend a 50mm sub-f2 to anyone who buys a DSLR - Nikon, Canon or other..

But it's really hard to make a lens buyers guide because so much is dependent on what the buyer likes to shoot and how serious they are about mastering the particulars of certain lenses. I shoot low light urban/architecture/random/nature and indoors w/o flash a lot so I tend to like f2.8 and lower lenses, even if I have to save up some serious cash to get one. I usually recommend someone new to DSLR's play around for a while and to not rush out and buy several lenses right off the bat until they get in the habit of noticing what lens characteristics and zoom range they tend to shoot at (or feel they are lacking) a lot.
 

Madwand1

Diamond Member
Jan 23, 2006
3,309
0
76
Originally posted by: kalster
anyone using zeiss (c/y) or pentax (m42) glass on canon dslr's (with appropriate adapter of course), i know the rebel has a crappy viewfinder making it hard to use since these lenses have to be manually focused, and stop down metered. can you recommend some good zeiss primes to use (mostly for wide angle stuff)

Zeiss is pretty much OT here, because it's a Canon crop DSLR thread -- a "starter" one to boot.

You know this, but perhaps other readers don't know the difficulties with trying to use Zeiss lenses on Canon bodies:

1. They don't fit. So you need an adapter. The adapter will only add partial functionality. Manual focus. Manual open and manual stop down for focusing, exposure and shooting? This is so not for a beginner.

2. Crop DSL adds a 1.6x multiplier. Arguably nice for telephoto, not at all for a wide-angle. Zeiss didn't create their line originally for the cropped DSLR times. Zeiss did have some lovely wide-angles, (e.g. the Distagon 21 f/2.8), but 21 x 1.6 = 33.6 which is practically a standard lens, not a "real" wide-angle.

http://www.16-9.net/ultrawides/
http://dgrin.smugmug.com/gallery/1075248

3. The 1.6x crop actually does one thing nice for wide-angle lenses -- crop them off where they're weakest. This has a counter-Zeiss consequence -- a lens will perform better on a crop-format DSLR because it's cut off at its weakest, hence a lesser lens may be closer to a greater lens in performance when limited to a crop-format DSLR. Yes, corner/edge resolution isn't everything...

4. Zeiss lenses were sometimes very expensive, esp. ones like the Distagon 21.

5. An angle-finder can make precise focusing easier on still subjects. You can also use the focus indicator lights as an aid in manual focusing.

6. Some Canon lenses aren't bad.

http://www.16-9.net/lens_tests...final/24mm_final1.html

If you want to play with Zeiss lenses, you might be better off in different format: Sony DSLR, full-frame, Contax film (or 645 with a digital back, see (4)), rangefinders, etc.

If you're still inclined, here's some more info:

http://www.16-9.net/lens_tests/
http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic2/306575


 

rudder

Lifer
Nov 9, 2000
19,441
86
91
Sigma 18-50mm f/2.8 EX DC

I may have had a bad copy, but the CA (purple fringing on high contrast objects in a photo)on this lens is horribe. Although photoshop can correct it, who can afford it first of all and who wants to have to spend time fixing all of your photos.

Go with the Tamron 17-50 instead.
 

Jawo

Diamond Member
Jun 15, 2005
4,125
0
0
Originally posted by: rudder
Sigma 18-50mm f/2.8 EX DC

I may have had a bad copy, but the CA (purple fringing on high contrast objects in a photo)on this lens is horribe. Although photoshop can correct it, who can afford it first of all and who wants to have to spend time fixing all of your photos.

Go with the Tamron 17-50 instead.

I've enjoyed my Tamron 17-50 once I found a sharp copy. After having some trouble with B&H I went to Penn Camera and tested a few out. Its a very nice lens that can do alot and doesnt have much CA from my experience.
 

OdiN

Banned
Mar 1, 2000
16,431
3
0
Originally posted by: pontifex
The dark horse: This is a lens that belongs in every single Canon SLR owner?s backpack - bar none. At a mere $80 USD, the Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II, a.k.a. the ?Plastic Fantastic?, offers an incredibly large aperture, stunningly sharp visuals and a fanastically low physical weight at the cost of a fixed focal length, plastic construction and a sometimes frustrating stepper-style autofocus motor. But for the price and versatility, you simply cannot go wrong.


anyone know an equivalent Nikon lens?

I really don't like that lens.

I much prefer my 50mm f/1.4. More expensive (quite a bit more) but well worth it. I have gotten some absolutely fantastic shots with it.
 

ThePresence

Elite Member
Nov 19, 2001
27,730
16
81
The dark horse: Well-known as a ?starter? L lens, the Canon EF 70-200mm f/4L USM offers the same beautiful optics of its more expensive siblings at half-cost, but with a noted limitation in aperture (thus limiting your lens?s ?speed?). However, at a mere $580 USD this lens has proven to be an extremely popular purchase option.
Hmmm... wonder why you left out the IS version of the f/4L. It's simply a fantastic lens. Shaprness, color, etc. I have never regretted buying it for an instant.
 

ElFenix

Elite Member
Super Moderator
Mar 20, 2000
102,427
8,388
126
Originally posted by: Gobadgrs
What have you guys heard about the lens here?

http://www.dcresource.com/news/newsitem.php?id=3587

Along with the camera comes a new lens: the F3.5-5.6, 18 - 55 mm IS lens. This stabilized lens (which does NOT have a USM motor) will be in stores this October for $199.

And what about
, or get it bundled with the F3.5-5.6, 28 - 135 mm IS lens for $1499

i think it's the same optics as the kit lens, with canon's new cheap 2 stop IS module. the kit lens' optics are not so great. it'd be better just to spend the $100 or so extra on a tamron 17-50 f/2.8 (which is 2 stops faster at the long end where IS matters anyway). it'll be sharper across the image and allow more background blur for portraits.

edit: ok it costs twice as much. i still think it's more worthwhile. especially if you're getting a 40D.


the 28-135 might be ok, but that's more of a film camera range. 45 to 216 is kinda odd.
 

NoShangriLa

Golden Member
Sep 3, 2006
1,652
0
0
Originally posted by: ElFenix
Originally posted by: Gobadgrs
What have you guys heard about the lens here?

http://www.dcresource.com/news/newsitem.php?id=3587

Along with the camera comes a new lens: the F3.5-5.6, 18 - 55 mm IS lens. This stabilized lens (which does NOT have a USM motor) will be in stores this October for $199.

And what about
, or get it bundled with the F3.5-5.6, 28 - 135 mm IS lens for $1499

i think it's the same optics as the kit lens, with canon's new cheap 2 stop IS module. the kit lens' optics are not so great. it'd be better just to spend the $100 or so extra on a tamron 17-50 f/2.8 (which is 2 stops faster at the long end where IS matters anyway). it'll be sharper across the image and allow more background blur for portraits.

edit: ok it costs twice as much. i still think it's more worthwhile. especially if you're getting a 40D.


the 28-135 might be ok, but that's more of a film camera range. 45 to 216 is kinda odd.
I would look for a older/used body and go with the 17-55mm f2.8 IS, or 17-40mm f4L, or 28-70mm f2.8L, or 24-105mm f4 IS. Then upgrade to more lenses/bodies once you have more money. 50mm f1.8 prime also is a good lens to have (cheap, small, lightweight, and tack sharp).


 

Doggiedog

Lifer
Aug 17, 2000
12,780
5
81
Originally posted by: GTaudiophile


2) Zoom lenses: Canon EF-S 17-85 F3.5-4.5 IS USM. (Canon is the manufacturer. It has an EF-S mount (for APS-C only). It has a variable zoom range of 17 to 85mm (27.2mm to 136mm equivalent on APS-C). It's got a variable aperture: F3.5 on the wide end (17mm) and F4.5 on the telephoto end (85mm). It features IS or Image Stabilization which counteracts the movement of shaky hands when shutter speeds are quite low/slow. Again, it has USM auto-focus.

I know this is old but I just wanted to correct this statement. The lens is f/4.0-5.6. I've got one for sale if anyone is interested.
 

punchkin

Banned
Dec 13, 2007
852
0
0
Originally posted by: ElFenix
Originally posted by: Gobadgrs
What have you guys heard about the lens here?

http://www.dcresource.com/news/newsitem.php?id=3587

Along with the camera comes a new lens: the F3.5-5.6, 18 - 55 mm IS lens. This stabilized lens (which does NOT have a USM motor) will be in stores this October for $199.

And what about
, or get it bundled with the F3.5-5.6, 28 - 135 mm IS lens for $1499

i think it's the same optics as the kit lens, with canon's new cheap 2 stop IS module. the kit lens' optics are not so great. it'd be better just to spend the $100 or so extra on a tamron 17-50 f/2.8 (which is 2 stops faster at the long end where IS matters anyway). it'll be sharper across the image and allow more background blur for portraits.

The Tamron 17-50 will NOT be sharper than the 18-55 IS, which is actually sharper than the Canon 17-55 in the corners wide open and with the Canon at the same aperture, believe it or not. The optics are NOT the same as the old kit lens, but significantly better. In addition the focusing is more accurate than that on the 17-50.

I am not biased against the 17-50, although I had two soft copies-- I have to take claims of super sharpness with a grain of salt, though. The lens is pretty soft wide open. The 18-55 IS is very sharp, though slower, and has IS.

A very good option for a rank beginner, for even less money than the Tamron, is the 18-55 IS and 50mm f/1.8.
 

SaoFeng

Senior member
Oct 25, 2006
515
0
76
a number of users have found some copies of the lens relatively soft.

yllus , can you explain that more? i just bought this lens coincidentally and i want to make sure that i have a good one!

thx
 

yllus

Elite Member & Lifer
Aug 20, 2000
20,577
432
126
Originally posted by: SaoFeng
a number of users have found some copies of the lens relatively soft.

yllus , can you explain that more? i just bought this lens coincidentally and i want to make sure that i have a good one!

thx

Focus Testing or Download Focus Test Chart

In terms of why I wrote that sentence - it's just my opinion from reading pages and pages of the photography-on-the.net forums. The Tamron 17-50mm is said to be less reliably sharp than the Tamron 28-75mm, for what it's worth.
 

Jawo

Diamond Member
Jun 15, 2005
4,125
0
0
Originally posted by: yllus
Originally posted by: SaoFeng
a number of users have found some copies of the lens relatively soft.

yllus , can you explain that more? i just bought this lens coincidentally and i want to make sure that i have a good one!

thx

Focus Testing or Download Focus Test Chart

In terms of why I wrote that sentence - it's just my opinion from reading pages and pages of the photography-on-the.net forums. The Tamron 17-50mm is said to be less reliably sharp than the Tamron 28-75mm, for what it's worth.

Do that test....the first copy I got of the Canon mount for the 17-50 was rather soft as well. I exchanged it and love my current copy!
 

Shimmishim

Elite Member
Feb 19, 2001
7,504
0
76
I didn't want to read all 4 pages but is this for crop body cameras... because the 10-22 is a EF-S lens as we know and won't work on something like the 5D or 1DsMk3.

I think the 16-35 f/2.8L II would be a nice wide angle zoom lens for FF cameras.
Also the wide primes would work well... but these will cost you at least an arm....
 

rudder

Lifer
Nov 9, 2000
19,441
86
91
Two notes:

The 85mm f/1.8 is a better lens for indoor sports than the 70-200mm. It is not a zoom though but in a high school sized gym it works great. Coupled with the plastic fantastic and you have some good coverage.

Second, the 70-300mm IS is an excellent outdoor sporting lens. I have not used a 70-200 f/4 but I can not imagine some of the shots coming from the 70-300 could turn out better than with the 70-200mm. Plus you get an extra 100mm... downside is its f/5.6 @ 300mm.
 

sygyzy

Lifer
Oct 21, 2000
14,001
4
76
Hi,

Thanks for this excellent thread. I have a few questions.

1. Regarding the "soft" copies of the Tamron lenses, how do you determine this? I mean, like you (the OP) said, it's difficult to measure.

2. Can you recommend any macro lenses? A list of choices, the way zoom and walkabout lenses were presented in the OP would be helpful.

3. Is the 40D kit lens (28-135 f/3.5-5.6 IS USM) a bad idea? Even at the kit price (~$175)?

4. I was thinking of just getting the kit and then soon after adding one of the recs in the OP, such as the one of the Tamrons. My concern is overlapping ranges. Is that an issue? Do photographers purposely try to avoid overlaps? That is, only get lenses like (just making this up) 17-40, 50-100, 100-300?

Thanks.
 

ghostman

Golden Member
Jul 12, 2000
1,819
1
76
1. I tested my Tamron 28-75mm by using focus charts and a series of AA batteries at varying distances. You should probably shoot the photos on a tripod (or at least resting on something), good lighting, fast shutter, low ISO and RAW. At the time, I didn't do anything of that, so I had very inconclusive results. Then I brought it out and took some shots and I was amazed by the sharpness on some shots. "Softness" is subjective and can vary with the aperture settings.

2. I don't have experience with macro lenses, but I know of the following:
Canon 100mm F/2.8 - http://www.amazon.com/Canon-10...-Cameras/dp/B00004XOM3
Sigma 105mm F/2.8 - http://www.amazon.com/Sigma-10...&qid=1212693627&sr=8-1
Sigma 150mm F/2.8 - http://www.amazon.com/Sigma-15...&qid=1212693627&sr=8-2
Tamron 90mm F/2.8 - http://www.amazon.com/Tamron-S...&qid=1212693782&sr=8-2
Tokina 100mm F/2.8 - http://www.amazon.com/Tokina-1...&qid=1212693892&sr=8-2
It'd be nice if someone had experience with more than one of these who could comment.

3. I think kit lenses have their place. I use the Canon 18-55 kit lens because I use it mainly for wide-angle landscapes that don't need wide apertures. For telephotos, I believe indoor shots using only ambient light will become difficult at F/5.6.

4. I don't think there is anything wrong with overlapping ranges. Sometimes, you might not want to take multiple lenses out (hiking, perhaps) and you'd rather have the convenience of a large range. And sometimes, the overlaps compensate the weaker end of another lens. Still, I don't like to reproduce ranges. Since I got the Tamron 28-75mm, I never use the 50mm F/1.8 anymore and I only use the Canon 18-55mm lens for its wide angle. My next two lenses would be a telephoto 70-200mm and a ultrawide 10-22mm to complement the Tamron.
 
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