Final Build

ss2 · Oct 2, 2011

Hi, I'll be playing FIFA 12, COD 4, COD: MW3, Battlefield 3, Crysis and Quake Live. I want to play these games with full settings, and minimal FPS loss. I'll also be watching blu-ray/hd movies and I will be streaming movies to the tv. I'll also have a lot of programs open at once... programs such as MYOB and other accounting programs (excel etc) I won't just have accounting programs open, I will overclock later on...

Would I need to set up a raid??? I don't know what it is...
What does this mean "Make sure you set your BIOS to AHCI mode before you install Windows on your new SSD"

I looked at the manual and I was checking how many fans the motherboard supports I found these:

PWR_FAN1, CPU_FAN, CPU_FAN_OPT, PWR_FAN2, CHA_FAN2, CHA_FAN1

Whats PWR_FAN1 and PWR_FAN2?
Whats CPU_FAN_OPT? – Optional?

The case comes with 3 fans
1x Rear
1x Top
1x Front

Where would I connect them... I read the manual and it doesn't say much
Would I connect the CPU fan to CPU_FAN?

Out of these two builds which do you think will last longer and will have better performance? I don't plan on upgrading for 3-4 years... Will there be much performance difference in the long run?

Any different suggestions welcome

Differences are marked as ***

Motherboard: ASUS P8Z68-V Pro Motherboard B3 - $214.00
CPU: Intel Core i5 2500K - $221.00
CPU Cooler: CoolerMaster Hyper 212+ CPU Cooler - $32.00
Graphics Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 570 1280MB Overclocked V2 - $375.00 ***
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X F3-12800CL8D-8GBXM (2x4GB) DDR3 - $75.90
Hard Drive: Samsung SpinPoint F3 1TB HD103SJ - $59.00
SSD: Crucial M4 SSD 128GB - $239.00
Optical Driver: Lite-On IHAS324 24x DVDRW - $29.00
Power Supply: Corsair HX-750 Power Supply - $189.00 ***
Monitor: ASUS VE248H 24in Widescreen LED Monitor - $215.00
Keyboard: Razer BlackWidow Ultimate Mechanical Keyboard - $149.00
Mouse: Razer DeathAdder-V2 Infrared Gaming Mouse - $57.00 (already purchased)
Mouse Pad: Razer Goliathus Fragged Standard MouseMat Refresh - Control Version - $15.00 (already purchased)
Speakers: Logitech Z523 2.1 Speaker System - $84.00
Case: CoolerMaster CM 690 II Advanced with Window - $125.00
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit with SP1 OEM $95.00

Total: $2173.90

Motherboard: ASUS P8Z68-V Pro Motherboard B3 - $214.00
CPU: Intel Core i5 2500K - $221.00
CPU Cooler: CoolerMaster Hyper 212+ CPU Cooler - $32.00
Graphics Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 560 Ti 1GB - $269.00 ***
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X F3-12800CL8D-8GBXM (2x4GB) DDR3 - $75.90
Hard Drive: Samsung SpinPoint F3 1TB HD103SJ - $59.00
SSD: Crucial M4 SSD 128GB - $239.00
Optical Driver: Lite-On IHAS324 24x DVDRW - $29.00
Power Supply: Corsair HX-650 Power Supply - $138.00 ***
Monitor: ASUS VE248H 24in Widescreen LED Monitor - $215.00
Keyboard: Razer BlackWidow Ultimate Mechanical Keyboard - $149.00
Mouse: Razer DeathAdder-V2 Infrared Gaming Mouse - $57.00 (already purchased)
Mouse Pad: Razer Goliathus Fragged Standard MouseMat Refresh - Control Version - $15.00 (already purchased)
Speakers: Logitech Z523 2.1 Speaker System - $84.00
Case: CoolerMaster CM 690 II Advanced with Window - $125.00
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit with SP1 OEM $95.00

Total: $2016.90

Printer: Epson Workforce 633 Wireless Inkjet Multifunction $155.00 (already purchased)

anti.machine · Oct 2, 2011

OK...Here we go,

ss2 said:
Would I need to set up a raid??? I don't know what it is...

If you don't know what it is you prob shouldn't worry about it because you wont know how to set it up...But basically it stands for redundant array of independent disks and you have different configuration options some for increased performance (RAID 0) some for redundancy (RAID 1)

ss2 said:
What does this mean "Make sure you set your BIOS to AHCI mode before you install Windows on your new SSD"

That basically means exactly what it says, whenever you boot up your computer you press a certain key usually F12 or Del (depending on manufacturer) to enter your BIOS setup. There is an option to change your AHCI mode.

As for the fans, you can hook them up to the fan ports on the motherboard, but those are usually reserved for, like you said the CPU fan on your heat sink will connect to CPU_FAN on the Mobo. Your case fans will most likely connect to your PSU.

As for your builds, If your doing a lot of multitasking you might want to consider changing up some of your components and picking up a i7 2600k that supports hyper threading especially if your budget is around 2k.

Your mobo is good, but the ASUS P8Z68 V LE gets recommended a lot because it pretty much has the same features minus the support for SLI and you can pick one up for around 130$.

For memory You could find some G.Skill DDR3 1600Mhz for around 50$ I would not pay for any faster memory because Sandy Bridge doesn't need the extra memory bandwidth

For the PSU go with the XFX 650 you can snatch one up for around 60 on newegg and its just as good as the corsair.

For your other components like peripherals that's really up to and your personal preferences.

Next time post some links so I can more easily check out your build.

ss2 · Oct 2, 2011

Sorry I forgot to mention i'm from australia and will be purchasing my components from http://pccasegear.com/ I also want a modular power supply.

anti.machine said:
If you don't know what it is you prob shouldn't worry about it because you wont know how to set it up...But basically it stands for redundant array of independent disks and you have different configuration options some for increased performance (RAID 0) some for redundancy (RAID 1)

So when i install the o/s i don't connect the harddrive 1t, but i leave the ssd connected until i install everything needed like updates games and software, then i can connect the harddrive? or when i install something it will give me a option which drive i want to install it too?

anti.machine said:
As for your builds, If your doing a lot of multitasking you might want to consider changing up some of your components and picking up a i7 2600k that supports hyper threading especially if your budget is around 2k.

Multitasking doesn't do much for when a lot of browser pages are open does it? the 2500k version should be fine for that part?

anti.machine said:
For memory You could find some G.Skill DDR3 1600Mhz for around 50$ I would not pay for any faster memory because Sandy Bridge doesn't need the extra memory bandwidth

The only reason I selected this RAM was because it was the same colour as the motherboard becaise i wanted to match it I had a red $57 one but colour

anti.machine said:
For the PSU go with the XFX 650 you can snatch one up for around 60 on newegg and its just as good as the corsair.

The reason I selected a 750watt was because the GTX570 needs 600watt minium, and i'm planning on overclocking later and apparently that takes up another 200watts so I wasn't sure.. i chose a 650watt http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?...ducts_id=12918 I don't want my system stressing for the 3-4years...

anti.machine said:
Next time post some links so I can more easily check out your build.

anti.machine · Oct 2, 2011

OK ss2 this is what I personally recommend.

CPU Intel i5 2500K 229$
Motherboard ASUS P8Z68 V LE 159$
CPU Cooler Cooler Master Hyper 212+ 33$
GPU EVGA GTX 570 HD Superclocked 379$
RAM G.Skill Ripjaws PC3-12800 1600Mhz 2x4GB 65$
HDD Samsung SpinPoint F3 1TB HD103SJ - $59.00
SSD Crucial M4 SSD 128GB - $239.00
PSU Corsair HX-650 Power Supply - $138.00
CASE I recommend Corsair or Fractal Design

So basically almost the same parts minus the Motherboard and memory...If you want to spend some of the money you'll save on the motherboard you could put towards an i7 2600k for better multitasking support.

The 650 should be sufficient, but if you want to spend the extra money then go ahead and get the 750. Use the link below for a neat wattage calculator.
http://images10.newegg.com/BizIntell/tool/psucalc/index.html

When building go ahead on connect both of your hard drives, when you install windows you will have the option of choosing which drive to install it on.

Blain · Oct 2, 2011

ss2 said:
The only reason I selected this RAM was because it was the same colour as the motherboard becaise i wanted to match it I had a red $57 one but colour

At least you're being honest about it.
The Corsair Vengeance is pretty too.

ss2 · Oct 2, 2011

Blain said:
At least you're being honest about it.
The Corsair Vengeance is pretty too.

no point in lieing

um yeah about that ram you selected what about clearance with the 212+ CPU cooler

Also I'm considering droping to cheaper components... but i've just got a question is it worth spending $2000 on a pc? or is it just a waste of money... I won't be upgradeing for 3-4 years so thats why i selected $2000... because i want it to hold out with minimal loss performance down the track, i know you can't future proof but in my case i just don't have the money to upgrade constantly.

Like i won't be hardcore gaming like i used too but i just want the system to handle the games without being overloaded, like when i play i want the picture and gaming movements to be nice a smooth. But in saying this i don't want a huge power bill...

Would use advise me to install games on the SSD? or the HDD?

Blain · Oct 2, 2011

ss2 said:
um yeah about that ram you selected what about clearance with the 212+ CPU cooler

The fan on the 212+ can be configured as "pull".
That would allow for any wild heatspreaders on the market.

Rainey · Oct 2, 2011

ss2 said:
Also I'm considering droping to cheaper components... but i've just got a question is it worth spending $2000 on a pc? or is it just a waste of money... I won't be upgradeing for 3-4 years so thats why i selected $2000... because i want it to hold out with minimal loss performance down the track, i know you can't future proof but in my case i just don't have the money to upgrade constantly.

I wouldnt drop to cheaper components because those are all solid compontents for everything you want to to do. The Website you are buying from the Australian one, being you are Australian. I noticed that almost all the parts are 20-30 dollars more expensive. Your computer, If built on newegg would be around 1700-1800 dollars. I don't know how much shipping is all the way to Australia, but it is probably expensive and I think that is why you are using that website.

Do you want SLI support or not on your MoBo?

I would advise you to install your games on your SSD, faster load times etc. But if you don't have enough room on your SSD to fit everything you want on it. I would put your top priority games on it only, because new games are probably gonna come out that you are going to want to put on it in the future.

Rainey · Oct 2, 2011

Other good CPU Coolers are the Scythe Mugen 3 and the Noctua NH-D14 or the U9-B

ss2 · Oct 2, 2011

Rainey said:
Do you want SLI support or not on your MoBo?

no i will just be using one card

anti.machine · Oct 2, 2011

Rainey said:
I would advise you to install your games on your SSD, faster load times etc. But if you don't have enough room on your SSD to fit everything you want on it. I would put your top priority games on it only, because new games are probably gonna come out that you are going to want to put on it in the future.

Along with that, I do not know what your proficiency is with windows, but if your feeling frisky I would recommend doing a registry change so you can install windows on your SSD and store your Documents and Setting on your HDD to conserve space and have more room for your games and important applications.

Rainey · Oct 2, 2011

With Anti.Machine on that one. and If you are only wanting to use one card I would go with the Asus V-LE On newegg price is 70 dollars cheaper and offers just as much as the Pro minus the SLI Compatability. That being said I did look up all your parts on newegg on your first build. The $2173.90 on Newegg was $1,840.84...The devastating part of that is that Newegg doesnt ship to Australia

ss2 · Oct 2, 2011

anti.machine said:
Along with that, I do not know what your proficiency is with windows, but if your feeling frisky I would recommend doing a registry change so you can install windows on your SSD and store your Documents and Setting on your HDD to conserve space and have more room for your games and important applications.

i don't understand... i will be installing windows 7 on the ssd

Rainey · Oct 2, 2011

ss2 said:
i don't understand... i will be installing windows 7 on the ssd

Here is a link to get you up to speed on the subject, Anti.Machine should have posted this with his lol
http://www.gskill.us/forum/showthread.php?t=675

ss2 · Oct 2, 2011

Rainey said:
Here is a link to get you up to speed on the subject, Anti.Machine should have posted this with his lol
http://www.gskill.us/forum/showthread.php?t=675

thanks...

One more question lol

Where do you want to install windows:

The disk will say "Disk 0 Unallocated space"

Under Drive options (advance):

Only format it if its a previsouly used drive? But because I have a new SSD (below)

Do I create a new partition? because its a new drive and partition the SSD to the maximum size (defualt rate)?

Because I unplugged the drive before it will create a little system of 100mb partiton, why?

Then I click apply and it will install windows...

Rainey · Oct 2, 2011

SS2 I'm a little confused by this post you just posted because, it seems like you answered your own question but I dont know the exact answer to that. Maybe Anti.Machine knows and will post when he returns.

lehtv · Oct 2, 2011

I won't be upgradeing for 3-4 years so thats why i selected $2000...

The longevity for different components isn't the same. Some components require upgrading soon, others you can stick with for 5+ years. In terms of long-term value for money (without sacrificing performance), it's then best to think of upgrading as a continuous process, where the best price/performance or price/quality ratios are the most important for frequently updated components. Makes sense?

So my advice to you:

Get a high quality power supply that will last you five years. Corsair HX series is an excellent choice.

Get a high quality case that will last you five years. It needs to have high build quality, good cable management, good compatibility with future upgrades. And it needs to be nice to work with / replace components in, and aesthetically pleasing so you don't mind keeping it around for several years.

By the time the CPU feels outdated (Intel Haswell [2013] at the earliest), the motherboard and memory will need replacing too - so they should have high value for money. A fast CPU increases the longevity of the setup on the whole so 2500K overclocked is a good choice.

Buy a keyboard that's well built, so you can keep it for several years. Mechanical keyboards have the best build quality in general.

SSDs advance in performance and decrease in price still at a rapid rate. 64GB is the best value for money in that department, as it speeds up your OS which is the most important thing. Speeding up other programs and files is secondary (but can be important enough to warrant spending on a 128GB SSD now, it depends.)

GPU: Go for the best bang for buck, and when the new generation of GPUs is around, sell and upgrade. That will offer more longevity for less $$ than buying a higher end GPU now.

On your budget I'd also get a better cooler than 212+. Something a bit quieter and higher performing, e.g. Thermalright HR-02 macho if you can get it in Australia or Scythe Mugen 3.

ss2 · Oct 2, 2011

thanks for that i'll take it into consideration

lehtv said:
On your budget I'd also get a better cooler than 212+. Something a bit quieter and higher performing, e.g. Thermalright HR-02 macho if you can get it in Australia or Scythe Mugen 3.

Thermalright HR-02 macho is only for AM2/AM3 sockets?

and it looks like i can't get the Scythe Mugen 3 $79.00
i don't order online

lehtv · Oct 2, 2011

Thermalright HR-02 macho is only for AM2/AM3 sockets?

No, it's universal http://www.thermalright.com/products/?act=data&id=178&cat_id=27

Rainey · Oct 2, 2011

Right from that link
Multiple support bracket system For Socket 1366/1156/1155/775 & AM2/AM3.

mfenn · Oct 2, 2011

ss2 said:
thanks...

One more question lol

Where do you want to install windows:

The disk will say "Disk 0 Unallocated space"

Under Drive options (advance):

Only format it if its a previsouly used drive? But because I have a new SSD (below)

Do I create a new partition? because its a new drive and partition the SSD to the maximum size (defualt rate)?

Because I unplugged the drive before it will create a little system of 100mb partiton, why?

Then I click apply and it will install windows...

I'm not sure exactly what you are asking, but if the drive is new just select the unallocated space and click next. If the drive was previously used, delete all of the partitions until there is only unallocated space left then click next. Windows will automatically create the 100MB boot partition for you.

Also, the idea of leaving the 1TB drive unplugged during the initial install is a very good one. It can save you lots of headache down the line.

mfenn · Oct 2, 2011

anti.machine said:
OK ss2 this is what I personally recommend.

CPU Intel i5 2500K 229$
Motherboard ASUS P8Z68 V LE 159$
CPU Cooler Cooler Master Hyper 212+ 33$
GPU EVGA GTX 570 HD Superclocked 379$
RAM G.Skill Ripjaws PC3-12800 1600Mhz 2x4GB 65$
HDD Samsung SpinPoint F3 1TB HD103SJ - $59.00
SSD Crucial M4 SSD 128GB - $239.00
PSU Corsair HX-650 Power Supply - $138.00
CASE I recommend Corsair or Fractal Design

This build is quite good. Two things that I might change are:
- This 6950 2GB will offer similar performance to the GTX 570, but costs over $100 less.
- The HCG-520 is plenty of power for a 6950 2GB and is only $80.

Rainey · Oct 2, 2011

You could also go with the xfx 650 which is about 60 bucks right now...But I agree with Mfenn if you dont care whether you want Nvidia or Radeon than I would go with the 6950 2gb as well

anti.machine · Oct 3, 2011

Hey ss2 I was looking into some stuff for you to help you optimize your SSD. There is a program called Steam Mover that you can use to move applications from your SSD to your HDD. Might be work checking out

http://lifehacker.com/5626931/steam-mover-relocates-applications-to-free-up-space-on-your-primary-drive

anti.machine · Oct 3, 2011

Also...I would recommend setting up your drives this way.

Final Build

Junior Member

Member

Junior Member

Member

Lifer

Junior Member

Lifer

Member

Member

Junior Member

Member

Member

Junior Member

Member

Junior Member

Member

Elite Member

Junior Member

Elite Member

Member

Elite Member

Elite Member

Member

Member

Member