That’s why I need lots of memory.
I didn't, and generally won't, unless a budget is tight, talk anybody out of more RAM. But, 16GB should be $100-120, right now, not $160.
This kit, FI, is priced right, and includes an odd irony along with it .
I did not know the Antec 900 was an old case. I just selected it because it was one of the top reviewed cases on Newegg, had a large side window, and I like the look of it. Any other benefits of buying a newer case?
Case fans: $30
Dust filters: $45
SSD adapter: $7
Zip ties: $6.50
Cable clamps: $24 (50!)
Zip tie mounts: $10.33 (100!)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811139011
That's $50 AMIR, or $70 upfront, and includes everything but the clamps. You also only need either a couple of clamps, or a couple of zip tie mounts. You should be able to buy a pack at a local hardware or department store for <=$5.
So that's ~$75, v. ~$220, by getting a newer case. Even with a more expensive new case (like the R4), point is, you won't need all the added parts.
Exactly. Once the 800 series comes out, the 700 series will drop in price.
Will it? The 400 and 500 series did not drop in price, except for a couple models that they kept selling. Are you sure the 770 model you pick won't be like that? Worse, with a 4GB one, you'd have to find that same model to do it right. The 560 and 570 cards, FI, haven't dropped much in price. If the new series comes out on time, in high volume, the old ones will be only slightly marked down, because they will have been able to plan out the last production and shipment cycles so as to minimize outstanding inventory.
If you want SLI, buy 2 cards up front. But, I think it would be quite overkill, given the apparent situation (coming from very old slow parts, and getting a 1080P monitor).
I think Roller Coaster Tycoon 3, the game I am most exited to play, is really hard on the CPU. My old Celeron 900 can’t sustain more than 1,000 guests in a park without instability.
Um...a Celeron 900 is worlds apart from this. If that's what you're used to, you won't know what to do with your new PC, even if it's the fastest one (Intel at their finest: there have been at least 3 Celeron 900 CPUs, over the years: P3 at 900MHz, Pentium-M at 900MHz, and Core 2 at 2.2GHz).
It’s not? It is the best reviewed heat sink of Newegg.
It's popular, therefore gets lots of reviews. Better are more expensive, so bought by less people, so reviewed less. In many situations, a product can have many reviews due to having been listed for several years, as well, while others have shorter lifespans.
You think the PSU is oversized, or just too expensive?
They go hand in hand, typically. A good 600W or so would do, and offer overclocking headroom, for less (without SLI/Xfire).
Also, all the accessories were really cheap (most under $20)
Under $20
each, but expensive in total.
Thank you, I just noticed my motherboard does not have enough fan connecters. I just added an adapter to the cart.
What? I count 5 headers, you shouldn't be using more than 4 (2 intake, 1 exhaust, 1 CPU), and you could probably get away with 3 (2 intake, 1 CPU), depending on case.
My Phillips screw driver is too big. I think the case would be good to have.
Maybe, but you can bet the tools are crap, and it's another added cost. A decent #2 is like $5, and a cheapo Harbor Freight one would do the job.
Thank you, but I would rather get them online so everything I need for the computer is together.
The computer will take days to get there, and it will not cost $35. You don't cut costs down by spending an extra $30, when one little 3M blister pack will handle your needs for the next decade or two.
That’s okay, it’s only $6. I wouldn’t want to damage an expensive computer because I did not use a $6 wrist strap. I think the computer toolkit comes with one, but I figured it would be good to have an extra one.
It's just going to be a hassle. Don't shuffle around on carpet, touch the case every time you come to the computer, bring your parts to the case ASAP, rather than walking back and forth to get them, don't go petting your cats while working on it, and you'll be fine.
I thought you weren’t supposed to use a vacuumed because it sucks, while compressed air blows. Canned air is quite and easy to maneuver.
We're on different wavelengths, here. You will only very rarely need to clean inside the PC, if done right. You're not supposed to use a vacuum because the filter mesh can be delicate, but I wouldn't lose sleep over doing it with an upholstery brush attachment, FI, that should only contact it with soft nylon bristles (it's quicker than washing, because then you have to wait for it to dry, and often-times, unwarp, if it's a solid nylon one). The inside of your case should take a very long time to accumulate dust, and most of it will be fine dust.
That is to install in my computer desk. It is enclosed in the back, so I wanted it for ventilation.
How so? If you can make the holes necessary for something like that to work well, you could instead take care of it being closed, somehow.
But the Kill-A-Watt does not have a wireless display. The Belkin at least has a cord so you don’t have to climb under the desk to read it.
Extension cords are good things, and you're already buying them.
I know I should just pick one though.
More like just don't buy the Belkin. There's $1066+ to save, here.
Standby (suspend to RAM) is S3, which keeps the PC on, but only enough to keep the data in RAM, and listen for configured wake-ups; and hibernate (suspend to disk) is S4, which dumps RAM to the disk, then shuts off, thus consuming practically no power.
I live in an older house with no Ethernet wiring near the computer location, installing Ethernet wiring would be expensive. What is wrong with wireless? My ping time is good and my speed is only bottlenecked by my Internet Service Provider.
Nothing is wrong with wireless, per se, except for normal wireless annoyances, but USB in general is CPU-heavy by its nature, so if you have any plans to play competitive online games, it's easier to find a good PCI-e card, than to try to find a good USB card.
Also, now that I can read what model it is, you don't need that much of a UPS. A UPS serves two main functions:
1. Prevent unnecessary shutdowns when power goes out and comes right back on, and
2. To power your computer long enough to properly shut down, if power does not come right back on.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16842101349
That's not a definitive choice, but that's the sort of
chinese junkquality unit you should be after, generally. Supporting new versions of Windows is as important as anything else, really.