Yes it is indeed lowered though I think I'd prefer it not be lowered..rofl I like the clear corners, is it lowered?
Yes it is indeed lowered though I think I'd prefer it not be lowered..
Yeah stereo is pretty decent though I'm tempted to go with a stock one. The guy had the car wired up for the addition of amps and whatnot (it used to have one). It has chrome pedals, chrome shifter, I think an Si gauge cluster, Integra GSR Rims, new Falken tires, he gave the car a tuneup (he owns an automotive repair shop), Exhaust system (which btw is soo loud), Intake system, and Keyless entry and Alarm (which btw is SOOO loud when locking and unlocking the car). Car had 175,300 miles to the T when I bought it.It shouldn't be too hard to find stock springs for that thing. It would get rid of the ricer look for one.
At least its got a nice stereo?
Is this better?It looks more like the rear springs have worn and the rear end is sagging.
definitely not exactly what i wanted but the things i need to "make it mine" are definitely doable.
Even if it was, I don't really care.$3500 for a riced out civic with 175k that was probably driven within an inch of it's life. How am I not surprised that fleabag bought it abd thinks it awesome deal?
Even if it was, I don't really care.
All I care about is: Was it in an accident? Does it have a clean title? Is the body in good condition? Is the interior in good condition? The car has met all those requirements so I'm perfectly happy with my choice. I wanted the car to be drivable because I wanted to drive it a bit before I did my future planned engine and transmission swap.
The engine could be leaking, grinding, sputtering, ceased, or gone and the car would still meet your requirements. Some requirements.
Also, why bother changing out the engine and transmission in that thing? If you are thinking of having a project car, I can think of a bazillion other cars that would be much better platforms for that.
The engine could be leaking, grinding, sputtering, ceased, or gone and the car would still meet your requirements. Some requirements.
Also, why bother changing out the engine and transmission in that thing? If you are thinking of having a project car, I can think of a bazillion other cars that would be much better platforms for that.
Hypermiling
http://harrisonburg.craigslist.org/cto/1537692127.html
Just saw it today. Made me think of this thread and lol.
That looks like a hell of deal.
At the very least a Civic VX/CX transmission and a lean-burn D16Y5 engine. But if I can, I'll put a D15Z1 head on the D16Y5 bottom end or D15Z1 head on a D17A6 bottom end for a slight bump up in displacement and 10ft-lbs torque increase over the D16Y*..At the risk of derailing this even more...what could you possibly want in there?
It's easier for me to get or rebuild parts nobody wants than to do body work. There is some work where the expense is time and other work where I can only spend $$$.. Yes I'm aware of hatchbacks and coupes nobody wants that I could obtain for around $500-$1000 but I wanted a nice 4 door and the only way to get that is to wait a long time until a 5-speed comes around or get an automatic and do what would for the most part be a $1200+ conversion..Still, there are a bazillion other cars better suited for that as well and you don't have to spend $3500 to get them either. His logic throws up entire screens worth of unhandled exceptions all in cascading windows.
At the very least a Civic VX/CX transmission and a lean-burn D16Y5 engine. But if I can, I'll put a D15Z1 head on the D16Y5 bottom end or D15Z1 head on a D17A6 bottom end for a slight bump up in displacement and 10ft-lbs torque increase over the D16Y*..
It's easier for me to get or rebuild parts nobody wants than to do body work. There is some work where the expense is time and other work where I can only spend $$$.. Yes I'm aware of hatchbacks and coupes nobody wants that I could obtain for around $500-$1000 but I wanted a nice 4 door and the only way to get that is to wait a long time until a 5-speed comes around or get an automatic and do what would for the most part be a $1200+ conversion..
I don't see why it shouldn't just so long as the engine I put in there isn't too old for the vehicle and I have all the emissions equipment like the EGR and whatnot (most civics don't have EGRs). As for putting a D15Z1 head on the D16Y5, most smog places when doing a through inspection are checking the block ID and not the short block. If I can't put teh D15Z1 head on there, it'll still be ok though not as desirable as I'd like.Would that pass CARB? My friend with a civic hatch engine swap needs to go to a "special" shop to get smog checks
Well, wouldn't you agree that going from 104ft-lbs of torque to 114ft-lbs of torque is going to be noticed a lot more than 300ft-lbs of torque to 330ft-lbs of torque? Also the primary reason I'd swap engines is to not only get vtec but to get lean-burn as well which I can't do with the current engine unless I change the short block and probably pistons.Swapping an engine to get 10ft/lb of extra torque makes me a sad Panda.