Actually it should be less noticeable as it is a lower percentage of change. But in reality the amount of change in both those examples would make the comparative differences relatively negligible.
Well, wouldn't you agree that going from 104ft-lbs of torque to 114ft-lbs of torque is going to be noticed a lot more than 300ft-lbs of torque to 330ft-lbs of torque? Also the primary reason I'd swap engines is to not only get vtec but to get lean-burn as well which I can't do with the current engine unless I change the short block and probably pistons.
But when a vehicle makes that much power, are you really going to notice? That was my point...Actually it should be less noticeable as it is a lower percentage of change. But in reality the amount of change in both those examples would make the comparative differences relatively negligible.
But when a vehicle makes that much power, are you really going to notice? That was my point...
But when a vehicle makes that much power, are you really going to notice? That was my point...
Well, my reasoning is inspired by this thread and what is being said in it:10% is 10%. The perception should be the same in both cars, i.e., little perceptible difference. You'd have to dyno it to identify the difference, and even then the variance of most dynos could just wipe out whatever you think you should be getting.
i.e., swapping a motor for 10lbs of twist is an epic waste of time.
10% is 10%. The perception should be the same in both cars, i.e., little perceptible difference. You'd have to dyno it to identify the difference, and even then the variance of most dynos could just wipe out whatever you think you should be getting.
i.e., swapping a motor for 10lbs of twist is an epic waste of time.
Swapping an engine for 10ft/lb of torque seems silly. I would understand if the engine needed to go anyway, but I really doubt the change will matter much.
@smog test comments - LOL, move to MN, we don't test any emissions here.
I don't like Ford Tauruses, and it has a V6. (Not economical)
I don't see why it shouldn't just so long as the engine I put in there isn't too old for the vehicle and I have all the emissions equipment like the EGR and whatnot (most civics don't have EGRs). As for putting a D15Z1 head on the D16Y5, most smog places when doing a through inspection are checking the block ID and not the short block. If I can't put teh D15Z1 head on there, it'll still be ok though not as desirable as I'd like.
I don't see why it shouldn't just so long as the engine I put in there isn't too old for the vehicle and I have all the emissions equipment like the EGR and whatnot (most civics don't have EGRs). As for putting a D15Z1 head on the D16Y5, most smog places when doing a through inspection are checking the block ID and not the short block. If I can't put teh D15Z1 head on there, it'll still be ok though not as desirable as I'd like.
I think it's hilarious that you bought an old beater car that is only going to get worse, AND are planning to swap the engine and the trans out, AND dangerously inflating your tires, AND driving like an asshole 100% of the time, all to gain at most 5 mpg on average (if that).
Hypermiling FTMFL.
$260 is expensive for transmission & power steering oil
Ok, we'll see about that.. In winter I average 25mpg in the Volvo S60 I drive so if I can't beat that by at least 5mpg, something is seriously wrong.. Also I'd rather "be an asshole" who is trying to minimize their impact on the environment than be an asshole at the cost of the environment.I think it's hilarious that you bought an old beater car that is only going to get worse, AND are planning to swap the engine and the trans out, AND dangerously inflating your tires, AND driving like an asshole 100% of the time, all to gain at most 5 mpg on average (if that).
Hypermiling FTMFL.
The cost of the engine isn't going to be too high (as I won't let it!) but I am thinking about adding on a light pressure turbo which may or may not be necessary. I might take it a step further and have the turbo only spool when the car is under heavy load in order to prevent me from having to downshift.You'd be better putting a low-to-medium-boost turbo kit on your existing engine, and running a fairly lean tune (but not too lean, else you will blow up your engine).
The result is the same: More torque, similar gas mileage.
I know you can't hear me but I think you did good except for one part... You got owned on the taxes.. Why did you tell them you paid $4000 for the car when you could've said you paid like $500?? lulzI got a car yesterday at about 10:15PM. It's a white 2000 Honda Civic EX with now 116170 miles. It cost $4000 up front in cash and then it will cost about $400 in taxes and some fees I suppose. Then it cost us $260 to do a transmission flush and power steering flush. (Which seems really expensive, but my father paid(I didn't even know he wanted to do this until he told me that I had an appointment at an auto shop)...) While at the shop apparently somehow the drivers side window came off the railing because they test the windows for some unknown reason. It came off the railing so they fixed that for free but recommended that we come back in when they get the rubber railing (or whatever it is) and then they'll install the new one and it should be good(It's a dealer part so they had to order it to get it)... For now I'll just save my money and not use the POWER windows to roll it down. (It was a ridiculous amount of money for just this piece of rubber... $130 for the part alone)
Anyway... It wasn't a bad deal since the car was fine upfront anyway. Car is in pretty good shape. I got what I wanted for a reasonable price... It has all the features too... Keyless entry, moon roof, power windows, power locks, and whatever else there is... I guess... ABS maybe?
So maybe it'll be $5000 in the end(After taxes and those doings), but whatever. The turning with the steering wheel seems smoother after we went to the shop. Oh and I've noticed that I have to TURN AND TURN AND TURN the wheel to make turns. It's like that with all these Honda Civic cars, but holy shit it's ridiculous how much turning there is. Anyway... New windshield wipers are probably next.
Oh and after driving it quite a bit today I had to fill it up at Chevron for $32.98 for 11.298 gallons of fuel. I forgot to mention in my little (eventually huge) gas mileage log that it was Chevron... but I'll do that soon.
Oh and for the "dangerously inflating tires" bit... It's FAR more dangerous to have your tires under-inflated by 3psi (which I can guarantee your tires are) than to have them inflated to sidewall. My tires wear evenly and I have much better handling performance than before I inflated them to sidewall so no, inflating them to sidewall is NOT less safe. Tires inflated to the sidewall rating run cooler than tires that are not.
Oh and for the "dangerously inflating tires" bit... It's FAR more dangerous to have your tires under-inflated by 3psi (which I can guarantee your tires are) than to have them inflated to sidewall. My tires wear evenly and I have much better handling performance than before I inflated them to sidewall so no, inflating them to sidewall is NOT less safe. Tires inflated to the sidewall rating run cooler than tires that are not.
Were you the one with the handling issues in the corolla that turned out to be an alignment issue? Oh and if it's a pickup, I don't want to hear about it...Did you read what happened to my car when I sidewalled the tires?
Were you the one with the handling issues in the corolla that turned out to be an alignment issue? Oh and if it's a pickup, I don't want to hear about it...