For those of you looking into amplifiers for your car stereo

tizodq

Member
Sep 17, 2001
164
0
0
yeah, those prices are amazing.

anyone looking it buying an amp should check this out, especially as DEI is a top notch company
 

sjwaste

Diamond Member
Aug 2, 2000
8,760
12
81
Bump this thread. Great prices on some very good amps.

This is the one I'm eyeing: Amp

I don't even need another amp, but hey.. maybe at this price its a fine idea.
 

itwt

Member
Nov 12, 2001
101
0
0
those prices are AMAZING and from Authorized Dealer too! Bought myself a 4ch amp for my next car...now i need to get nice 2 pairs of speakers and i'll be set, already have nice mono amp and sub playing in my current car right now
 

optimistic

Diamond Member
Apr 29, 2001
3,006
0
0
Hmm... I might consider this. But does anyone know a good deal on front component speakers?
 

Tommygun89

Member
Apr 12, 2000
65
0
0
I am going to put an amp in my Jeep Wrangler, this is almost garanteed to gt wet, anyone know of a sub box that stores an amp, or a product that protects an amp from getting wet?
 

Tommygun89

Member
Apr 12, 2000
65
0
0
also, i'm clueless about amps... if i want the amp to just power a sub, would i get a 1 channel amp, if i want it to power my sub and 4 other speakers would i get a 4 channel amp?
 

ECHO

Senior member
Sep 18, 2000
266
0
0
4 speakers + sub = 5 channel amp or better yet, get 2 amps, one for the speakers and one for the sub.
 

hurrikaane

Member
Oct 4, 2003
169
0
0
Depends on your volume knob The most common setup is a 2 channel amp for the sub, and a 4 channel for your front/rear speakers. Altho for best sound you should disable your rear speakers, and use only front components/midbass.
 

swifty

Member
Mar 6, 2001
122
0
0
hurrikaane is right. that is one of the best setups - but if you do have the money to buy a dedicated mono amp for your sub - they tend to be very very very stable and solid performers (that is my setup) a 4 channel amp for internal speakers and a super dooper mono amp to push the sub.

There are ways around it - if your sub does not require too much power a 5 channel up will save you some work and will be very neat in your trunk.
 

imported_Grimmy

Senior member
Dec 28, 2001
224
0
0
If you want to run a sub, get a Class D mono amp, they're a lot more efficient but they're only good for subs. A regular amp will do as a rule of thumb, 10 watts of power per 1 amp of voltage. Ignore all the hype an amp that does more than 600 watts will probably dim your lights harshly. A good class D will eek out as much as 15 watts of power per 1 amp.

My recommendation, get the smallest 1 channel amp there, it's rated 600W and if you hook that up with a good sub/pair of subs in a good box you're gonna be more than satisfied with that.

For the "other" speakers (front/rears) whether to go 2 or 4 channel is completely dependant on your head unit (cd player). If your unit has 4 channel output, go 4 channel amp, if it only has 2 (typically only higher end players have 4) then go 2. My head unit has 4 outputs plus a sub output and it controls the crossover frequencies as well so I run a Mono + 4 channel amp. A good solid 100-150 watts will make you quite happy, 25 x 4 or 50 x 2 TRUE power is quite a lot of sound.

The biggest mistake (well one of them) made is hooking up this awesome system then strangling it with not enough power from the alternator. Most factory alternators put out less than 100 amps, a few go 105 and a very few go 135. Another rule of thumb here is the car will "use" a little less than half what the alternator can supply meaning if you have a 100 amp alternator you shouldn't really count on having more than 50 or 60 amps of available power for "add ons" (your amplifiers). Remembering the 10 watts per amp rule, you wouldn't want to put over 500-800 watts of amps on this car, sure you can add capacitors but fact is if you're pulling more than you got you're gonna have problems.

I have a 1500W mono amp and a 175 X 4 channel amp in my car, 2x12 Audiobahn subs in a sealed box, and 8 pairs (yes 8) of Audiobahn ABC 600 components (4 up front 4 in back). My alternator is hand wound and will produce around 160 amps of power (the factory alternator in a Geo Tracker is like 55 amps so rough estimate is 130 - 140 amps of "extra" juice). When my system hits hard, it barely dims the lights. I also have a BatCap 800 and 0/1 Guage wires from alternator to battery to batcap and 4 guage from batcap to amps.

Yeah I like my music loud, very loud. I keep $250 in my glove box so I can post my own bail if I get nabbed for noise pollution
 

OldOneEye

Junior Member
Nov 17, 2003
8
0
0
Gary,
For the most part I would have to agree.

The one great thing about those 5 channel amps is that you can take any head unit with a 4 channel output and it sum the two front signals into a signal to go to the sub. Even if your head unit doesn't have a sub level control, those DEI amps have the sub level control included (a little bass level controller that mounts in the dash).

While many people run the 4 channel plus 1 channel amps, sometimes its easier to wire up one amp (the amps are on the big side, so that is why some people go with two amps).

Your analysis of alternators is a bit simplistic, it really is much more complicated than that.

Interestingly enough, I work for Sounddomain and really didn't expect these amps to sell as well as they have. They have been up since Friday and the word has spread on several forums about that.

Juan


Originally posted by: Dixiesys
If you want to run a sub, get a Class D mono amp, they're a lot more efficient but they're only good for subs. A regular amp will do as a rule of thumb, 10 watts of power per 1 amp of voltage. Ignore all the hype an amp that does more than 600 watts will probably dim your lights harshly. A good class D will eek out as much as 15 watts of power per 1 amp.

My recommendation, get the smallest 1 channel amp there, it's rated 600W and if you hook that up with a good sub/pair of subs in a good box you're gonna be more than satisfied with that.

For the "other" speakers (front/rears) whether to go 2 or 4 channel is completely dependant on your head unit (cd player). If your unit has 4 channel output, go 4 channel amp, if it only has 2 (typically only higher end players have 4) then go 2. My head unit has 4 outputs plus a sub output and it controls the crossover frequencies as well so I run a Mono + 4 channel amp. A good solid 100-150 watts will make you quite happy, 25 x 4 or 50 x 2 TRUE power is quite a lot of sound.

The biggest mistake (well one of them) made is hooking up this awesome system then strangling it with not enough power from the alternator. Most factory alternators put out less than 100 amps, a few go 105 and a very few go 135. Another rule of thumb here is the car will "use" a little less than half what the alternator can supply meaning if you have a 100 amp alternator you shouldn't really count on having more than 50 or 60 amps of available power for "add ons" (your amplifiers). Remembering the 10 watts per amp rule, you wouldn't want to put over 500-800 watts of amps on this car, sure you can add capacitors but fact is if you're pulling more than you got you're gonna have problems.

I have a 1500W mono amp and a 175 X 4 channel amp in my car, 2x12 Audiobahn subs in a sealed box, and 8 pairs (yes 8) of Audiobahn ABC 600 components (4 up front 4 in back). My alternator is hand wound and will produce around 160 amps of power (the factory alternator in a Geo Tracker is like 55 amps so rough estimate is 130 - 140 amps of "extra" juice). When my system hits hard, it barely dims the lights. I also have a BatCap 800 and 0/1 Guage wires from alternator to battery to batcap and 4 guage from batcap to amps.

Yeah I like my music loud, very loud. I keep $250 in my glove box so I can post my own bail if I get nabbed for noise pollution

 

Sheriff

Golden Member
Mar 14, 2001
1,182
0
0
These are good buys from the maker that supplies us Precision Power and Orion Amps. The thing that has been left out is the Damping Power which determines the Subs/Speaker (cone flexibility) The 4-5 Channels are 200 whereas the 2 Channels are > then 300...although I prefer 500+ found on other models 300 is not to shabby
 

OldOneEye

Junior Member
Nov 17, 2003
8
0
0
Deal not entirely dead yet. We are going to be adding some of DEI's Viper Audio products at very similar savings and they should be up by tomorrow (and the link at the top should work as well).

Juan
 

Slickone

Diamond Member
Dec 31, 1999
6,120
0
0
I've always used Viper alarms, but I've never really paid attention to DEI amps, nor have i heard of anyone using them. They're really good? I have Nissan Frontier King Cab (extended cab, not Crew Cab) truck, so without a truck or hatch, I plan to keep it simple and would like to run a four channel amp, using 2 channels for components and the other two bridged to a sub. If 2 amps would be about the same size, it might be a possibility, but since I only plan to run one 8" sub, I think 1 four channel will suffice. I don't think an amp(s) will fit under my seats too well, so what I want to do is make a false floor with the sub on one side of the hump and amp(s) on the other, with removable covers to conseal them. Anyone know of any like this where I can see pictures for ideas? Maybe even a recessed plexiglass window over the amp with the cover fitting in the recessed area, flush with the false floor.
Someone did fit JBL/Crown amps under their Frontier seats, but had to take the cover off the silver trim, remove the carpet padding, and raise the seat.

I've got a 10" in my other car and it's really too much bass and I don't like the way it sounds (but thats another story), so I'm going to try an 8" in the truck. My cousin has a JL Audio 8W3 (with a small Phoenix Gold amp) in his truck that sounds excellent to me, more than enough bass. I had a JL in the past too. So I plan on getting an 8W3 or 8W3v2.

What I'm trying to decide on is how many amps and what brand, and what brand 6.5" components. My Frontier has factory tweeters in the doors so I plan to use their locations, which I think are something like 1 3/16". So if I bought 3/4" or 1" tweeters, would I have some fab work to do or does someone make adapters?

Component brands I was thinking of: MB Quart, Infinity Perfect, Polk Momo, JBL GT, Boston Acoustic, ADS (prob too exp).
Components I've heard mentioned often but I'm not as familiar with: Diamond Audio, Focal, JL Audio.

Amps I was thinking of: Soundstream, Alpine, Rockford Fosgate, Pheonix Gold, PPI, Hifonics, ADS (prob too exp).
Amps I've heard mentioned often but I'm not as familiar with: US Amps, JL Audio, DEI.

I already have a Pioneer DEH-9400MP head unit.


Basically the 10" subwoofer problem I mentioned - in the 300zx (hatchback), 10" Polk DB, sealed Q-Logic box from Crutchfield, is boomy at very low freqs and I can barely hear it play anywhere above that. Box is about 1 ft^3 I think, and has no obvious leaks. Should be getting plenty of power.


Generally people recommend not using rear speakers, so I'm not sure why people here are recommending 5 channel amps. I've had a couple 4 channel amp systems pushing components and a sub and have been happy.


Dixiesys, many cars have far less than 100amp alternators. My 87 300ZX has a 70amp. I have a 4 channel Soundstream 644s, with one side pushing Boston Pro series components, and the other side bridged at 1/2 ohm pushing a 10". It doesn't *seem* to need any more alternator power, but who knows. For the hell of it I was planning to put in a 90amp from a maxima if I come across one used cheap. It's an almost direct fit (cheap) mod a lot of z31 owners do.
 
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