For those of you looking into amplifiers for your car stereo

[EF9]

Soundstream amps are good and are usually underrated on the wattage output. Soundstream has true power and suggest the tarantula amp. As for mids and highs, the infinite kappas are good mid level speakers but I like Boston Aqoustics and MB Quarts.

 

[Slickone]

The Soundstream in my car blew once when I was charging the battery with a charger set on 10amps (I think). Had to ship it off and get someone to replace some of the components. I had never heard of this. I wish I'd known this could happen. So now I unhook it from the battery any time I need to charge it. Is this a Soundstream thing or can it happen with any amp?

 

[Slickone]

If I get an amp that's 150Wx1 RMS (bridged), should I get a JL Audio 8W3v2 which they recommend 125W RMS, or an 8W6 (older model no longer made but still readily available used) which they recommended feeding 200W RMS?

Unless I come across something else, I trying to narrow down between Boston Acoustics Z6 or Pro 6.5, or MBQuart QSD216, PCE216, or RCE216. Has anyone heard most of these? Are the Z6's and QSD's worth the money? For more fill, if the component set has the option to axial mount the tweeter to the mid bass (I think all I just listed do), I might do that, in the lower door factory location, then add another set of tweeters in the upper door factory tweeter location (attenuated). What do you think? I was told by a pro that the main tweeter needs to be closer to the mid bass than where most factory tweeter locations are (upper door or A-pillar).
Are Boston Acoustics generally considered less bright and less fatiguing than MB Quarts?

Anyone heard the Polk Momo components? What about CDT?

 

[Hessakia]

Slickone: if you want to get a JL product, go ahead and do yourself a favor, instead of getting an 8" W3, purchase a pair of 10" (or 12") W0's, the bang for your buch will be much better

 

[Slickone]

Hessakia, I believe you, but I don't have the room for two 10". I don't need or like that much bass either. I don't listen to any hip hop or rap, so like the tight accurate kick of an 8", rather than the boom anything bigger. I'm old.

 

[OldOneEye]

I have used the BA pro series, and they are very nice. Lots of money though, unfortunately. I liked my Pro 6.5, but I'm not sure
how the new MB Quart compares (both have metal dome tweeters). We just picked up the Polk Momo stuff and supposedly its
very nice stuff and one of my coworkers had some in his car and liked them alot, but I'm not sure what your tastes in music
run towards.

Tweeters should be as close as possible to the woofer, best case scenario.

CDTs are nice, but at their pricing I would probably look around for something else.

Juan

Originally posted by: Slickone
If I get an amp that's 150Wx1 RMS (bridged), should I get a JL Audio 8W3v2 which they recommend 125W RMS, or an 8W6 (older model no longer made but still readily available used) which they recommended feeding 200W RMS?

Unless I come across something else, I trying to narrow down between Boston Acoustics Z6 or Pro 6.5, or MBQuart QSD216, PCE216, or RCE216. Has anyone heard most of these? Are the Z6's and QSD's worth the money? For more fill, if the component set has the option to axial mount the tweeter to the mid bass (I think all I just listed do), I might do that, in the lower door factory location, then add another set of tweeters in the upper door factory tweeter location (attenuated). What do you think? I was told by a pro that the main tweeter needs to be closer to the mid bass than where most factory tweeter locations are (upper door or A-pillar).
Are Boston Acoustics generally considered less bright and less fatiguing than MB Quarts?

Anyone heard the Polk Momo components? What about CDT?

 

[anomaly]

Originally posted by: optimistic
Hmm... I might consider this. But does anyone know a good deal on front component speakers?

What sized speakers, amplified or unamplified, what is your budget, etc.

 

[Slickone]

Originally posted by: OldOneEye
I have used the BA pro series, and they are very nice. Lots of money though, unfortunately. I liked my Pro 6.5, but I'm not sure
how the new MB Quart compares (both have metal dome tweeters). We just picked up the Polk Momo stuff and supposedly its
very nice stuff and one of my coworkers had some in his car and liked them alot, but I'm not sure what your tastes in music
run towards.

Tweeters should be as close as possible to the woofer, best case scenario.

And will a second set help?

CDTs are nice, but at their pricing I would probably look around for something else.

And if the price of them didn't matter?

 

[OldOneEye]

Slickone,
I can spend your money for you pretty damn quick. Do $1000 speakers sound great? They do. Do they
sound 5 times better than a set of $200 speakers? Might be debatable. I bought one of those Dells
for $200 a while back (the one with the $200) and you would be surprised how many people complained
that they "sucked" (even for $200) because of no AGP slot, etc.

Now, depending on budget, there are a few things I would do. When I can't afford the best ($1000 for the
Z series from Boston) I go for the best value. The Viper Audio components are very similar to the DEI components
that had received rave reviews and are a hell of a value. Are they as good as the QSD from Quart or the CDT Euro
series? Probably not. Are they very good? Yes. A good value? Yes. Do you think you can tell the difference on
the road? Debatable. Can you spend the money you save on something that might make a definate difference?
I would think so. Sounddeandener might be one thing, a better head unit, a bigger amp, custom fiberglass kickpanels
would all make a difference.

Juan

 

[Slickone]

I've seen Z6's for $550 online.
If not buying the Euro CDT's, how do their Classic series compare to others?
I already plan to use some Dynamat Extreme, I already have a great heat unit, and I think a bigger amp would be overkill. I don't doubt kickpanels would help sound, but I don't think I want them. I don't think anyone makes custom panels for mine anyway.

 

[jasonja]

Originally posted by: Slickone
Hessakia, I believe you, but I don't have the room for two 10". I don't need or like that much bass either. I don't listen to any hip hop or rap, so like the tight accurate kick of an 8", rather than the boom anything bigger. I'm old.

I have the JL 8w3v2 and it's great. It's unbelievable for a 8" and I was in the same situation. I have a 03' 4Runner and it had a 8" factory sub hidden in the back that was absolutely worthless, I didn't want to take up any cargo space but missed the thump of my 10" MTX sub in my old SUV. I was reluctant to go to an 8", but for the music I listen to (and even that thumpy stuff) the JL is incredible. Everyone who hears it at any significant volume is very impressed that it's only a 8". I have the 6ohm model running DVC on a Clarion mono amp, my amp could handle 2ohms but they installer said it would really be pushing that amp to it's limits so he recommended I ease off a bit. I think my JL 8w3v2 easily out does my old MTX 10" Thunder5000 (both ran off the same amp). This could be because it's DVC, but for $120 I think it was a great solution for my 4Runner. It even dropped right into the factory sub enclosure and had more than enough air space.