fresh home build coming soon

[skyking]

Yes, basically it's a single drive-thru with pocket doors at each end. 3 foot pocket doors. If somebody gets laid up and is it a wheelchair or a walker they can get in there and get clothes and pass on through there without having to turn around in a dead end closet.
The other really important reason is there's room there now to put the head of the bed against that wall. Plenty of room and that's probably how we're going to lay the room out.
Naturally she gets the side of the bed closest to the toilet lol. I can roll out of my side of the bed and go to my end of the closet. We could also race for the toilet that way.
Whoever loses has to take the right turn through the laundry to the powder room.
It happens way more often than I would think. We both want to get on the pot at the same time.
In the current house that means venturing clear down to the other end. It's not a huge house but it's much farther than this will be.

 

[skyking]

They're all three foot doors except for the entry door at the front. I'll probably splurge for something in the 40 to 42 inch range. I'll keep working on the details and elevation so you can see what's going on. There's a 9-ft ceiling in the two-story section of the house to the right of the bedroom area. I could swing one of those 42x8 ft doors there. That would look pretty nice.

 

[herm0016]

craft room door to entry way side will give a one single spot for a cabinet/buffet etc in the dining room/hallway. if you want to go for ADA, draw in your ADA circles in bathrooms and hallway corners, etc.

what's CH in the pantry? pantry cabs are only 16 deep? I assume its a wall of full height cabinets.
you will use the carport entry most? no room for a bench or chair by the most used entry. even at 37yo its nice to sit down to put on my boots without dragging mud into the main part of the house.
1/2 bath requires tromping through the whole house if you are outside.

fridge to pantry side for a bit more counter space? do you have any counter top appliances? not much space for them.

elec panel exterior? think about light switch placement if you are mobility challenged. not much room by some of the doors.

think about furniture placement in the living room

 

[skyking]

That's another chase in the pantry.
Take a look again that closet corner by the carport door is designed for nice piece of furniture or a bench. And a table to put your keys down and maybe a phone charger.
8 ft. Long by 42" Island is a whole bunch of counter space.
Note the built-in refrigerator and next to it on the right. Those are little garage shelves for things like the microwave, the instapot, air fryer. Some of the things you can operate in those nooks and others will have to come out but the microwave and the air fryer can sure stay in their little houses.
I tend to build things in.

Moving the fridge across the way would be a huge mistake because it would totally blow up your work triangle which is drawn between the fridge, the sink, and the stove.
Yes the bathroom's a long trek from the carport end of the house. Most of the outside stuff like the shop is going to be out the basement walkout door which will have another bathroom and mud room and a big laundry sink. I can come in from that end which is under the main bedroom over there, dump all my clothes and cruise on upstairs.
The pantry will probably be only 14" deep like this one.


It is designed around the premise that if you are more than two things deep, you have no idea what you do have.
Deeper is fine if you buy a dozen of a thing every time, but we don't.
I made that lower level tall and deep enough for the big boxes of cereal or the big plastic bins. Then I put the door organizers together so they started above that level. The shelves are two standard cans high, so you can nest those cans with the tapered bottom nicely. The are also suited for quart canning jars.
Light stuff like pasta and loose teas and bits of bagged stuff goes in the door organizers.
Nothing can hide in there.


Note that everything that is not of a comfortable height to view and mess with in my kitchen designs is a drawer, with very few exceptions.
Pots and pans are in drawers on each side of the stove.
the fridge build in will be similar to this one.

That all gets countersunk together when I hang it so the face frames are tight.

Then I cut plugs from the stock material and plug the holes.
You can't slide a piece of paper between my cabinets if I'm able to get it nuked with a countersunk screw.

My tentative plan is to build it myself mostly all the way to "OK to cover", with all the wiring, plumbing, hydronic floor heat, HVAC ducts , insulation.
Then I will hire the tile work, flooring, drywall and painting.
While those contractors work I will set up shop in the basement great room and build cabinets, which is my happy place.
I may farm out the doors like I did last time, or tool and jig up to make the doors myself. Either way I am designing and building all the boxes and face frames.

 

[skyking]

I don't t

craft room door to entry way side will give a one single spot for a cabinet/buffet etc in the dining room/hallway. if you want to go for ADA, draw in your ADA circles in bathrooms and hallway corners, etc.

what's CH in the pantry? pantry cabs are only 16 deep? I assume its a wall of full height cabinets.
you will use the carport entry most? no room for a bench or chair by the most used entry. even at 37yo its nice to sit down to put on my boots without dragging mud into the main part of the house.
1/2 bath requires tromping through the whole house if you are outside.

fridge to pantry side for a bit more counter space? do you have any counter top appliances? not much space for them.

elec panel exterior? think about light switch placement if you are mobility challenged. not much room by some of the doors.

think about furniture placement in the living room

I don't think I can achieve the ADA circles. What I will do is take a 1.25" diameter thing and play with that on my drawing. I doubt I have space everywhere and I would have to redesign at this point. It is fun to give it a try though. Thanks.

 

[herm0016]

sounds good. looks like we follow similar procedures building cabinets.

 

[skyking]

Kreg jig is my friend
I use an old solid core exterior door, the kind you get for free at a demo job. Put that on some horses and after slicing and planing the face frame wood, I clamp it down tight to the solid door before I shoot the pocket screws through. That helps with the joints slipping at the faces.

 

[Greenman]

I've seen the door storage done a couple times, it never really rang my bell.
I'm a big fan of pullouts. Did them in my last house and they worked really well.

If you're doing shaker doors in the new place they're elementary to build. A router table and two bits is all you need.

 

[skyking]

I'm probably doing a roman ogee profile to get rid of some of the dust .

I doubt I'll go for the door storage this time around. The pantry is a little longer.

 

[skyking]

@herm0016 the powder room is ADA!

 

[skyking]

Floor 2 image.
This is 2 bed 2 bath, with a couple of common areas that could become bedrooms very easily. Both bedrooms have private entrances from the sun deck over the carport. In the short term it is the guest digs with a sink and a small fridge under the counter, and we'll furnish it so people can hang out and have their own space if they wish.
The hinge point for declaring a space as an Accessory Dwelling Unit (ADU) is the addition of a cooking range. As long as I don't put in a stove up there we are good.

 

[skyking]

Elevations. Note the shed roof cupolas to get some light into the north part of the house. Also that cantilever walk out to the carport roof/deck.

 

[herm0016]

windows don't line up with the top of the doors?
what finish on the outside? looks nice and simple.

maybe a little shed roof over the door for rain and snow.


my cousin and her husband are building a place, they have made some weird decisions that makes me question the engineering sense of the dude, who works for ford....
front door is 6'8" with a side light, full glass.
all the windows in the house are at 8 ft door height, and the doors to the patio on the back and whatnot are all 8 foot. The front porch is inset, so it looks like some kind of willy wonka hallway.

lighting layout is bizarre, kitchen is all 4 in round boxes, not cans. i asked about it and they were not sure what kind of fixture they wanted so just did that... so i guess they will have to go with the flat led edge lit panels for the whole thing.
One of the boxes is directly above the fridge, one is above a 24 deep pantry that has no soffit and does not go to the celling. all set too close to the uppers so they will have a terrible shadow on the countertops. no rated boxes for fans in any room, list goes on.

electrician is my uncle, cousin's dad. drilled right at the bottom web for wiring on all the TJI, other weird little things that make you go wtf?

 

[Greenman]

I've spent many hours trying to talk homeowners out of bad decisions, most of the time it works, sometimes you just have to let them learn some very expensive lessons.

 

[skyking]

The windows are drawn in at 4' wide and "not too sure yet" on height and vertical placement.
They are likely to be 4 square. Some rooms want a 36" high sill. Some of the upstairs windows may go in lower and also be larger. That sunroom is an example.
I really had to nail down width and placement for the presciptive wall bracing guidelines. That south wall is maxed out. The east wall is too.
The height does not matter, so we will kick the tires on that idea for a while.

Outside finishes are way out there and yet to be determined. I can get the house into CAD and model finishes and colors for a while.
Lighting plan:
I will design base illumination for navigating the common spaces and place the lights for that. They will not be cans. They will be recessed LED lights with fixed loads.
These are the circuits that get 3 way switched at the doorways, Herm. You mentioned that issue and I have plans for switches at the carport and front entry that get you through the house.
In the work areas like the kitchen there will be additional task lighting and those will be cans for all the potential options.
Those are going to be single switched in most cases.
Every space will have a base navigation level of lighting, and then either switched outlets or additional lighting. I want plenty O lighting, unlike that bizarre example above.
If you put in a 65W screw in base can, now you are up against "load to be served".
It limits the fixture count per breaker.
On the other hand if you choose LED from the get go with a fixed known load, that is it.
Why?
I am installing a sub panel with very limited loads.
A couple of 15 amp lighting circuits with those light fixed load LED
a 15 amp for fridge and freezer.
A 15 amp for the 1/2 hp sewage ejection pump.
I can power that with a 4KW inverter and a small bank of batteries in a power outage.
I'm not messing with the solar system and a big bank of batteries and that complexity.
We'll just do a grid tie and KISS.
I can wire in that sub panel so it goes to a generator socket outside the home.

 

[skyking]

I sketched up the footing and ICF foundation plan today, and also the beam plan. I can't submit these to the city, I need an engineer's set of stamped plans for the foundation. I could design and submit the foundation plan per the prescriptive method except that the house is in seismic zone D2, the most restrictive.

 

[herm0016]

My suggestion for outlets, is run everything in 12 awg for 20 amp circs. By code your kitchen and baths must be already. What year code is your muni on?

By cans I mean use recessed light rough ins and install led trims. We run our lighting circs in 14 and never tie to outlets. So if you blow an outlet circ the lights stay on.

Flip ins are great in remodels, but we use regular old nail up cans in new, and install led trims kits. More future proof, less insulation on your head if they need to be changed, less mess when trimming out the house.

Sent from my Pixel 6 using Tapatalk

 

[Greenman]

Lighting should always be separate circuit or two, it's a cleaner install.
I only run #12 wire where it's code required. I've never seen a compelling argument for going to #12 in residential applications.
Oddly enough, the place I just moved into doesn't have a single 15amp circuit in it.

 

[Greenman]

dp

 

[skyking]

My suggestion for outlets, is run everything in 12 awg for 20 amp circs. By code your kitchen and baths must be already. What year code is your muni on?

By cans I mean use recessed light rough ins and install led trims. We run our lighting circs in 14 and never tie to outlets. So if you blow an outlet circ the lights stay on.

Flip ins are great in remodels, but we use regular old nail up cans in new, and install led trims kits. More future proof, less insulation on your head if they need to be changed, less mess when trimming out the house.

Sent from my Pixel 6 using Tapatalk

If you mean by led trim, something that screws into a standard bulb base. That's out.
Just on those circuits that I'm going to run through the house for navigation.

 

[Greenman]

If you mean by led trim, something that screws into a standard bulb base. That's out.
Just on those circuits that I'm going to run through the house for navigation.

You can get the cans in either style, screw base that comes with an adaptor to two wire plug in, or just a simple two wire plug without the screw base.
I think pretty much all LEDs now come as adjustable temperature, from 2700K to 5000K.

 

[skyking]

I'll find out where they're at for electrical code. I know they're at 2018 on the building.

 

[skyking]

You can get the cans in either style, screw base that comes with an adaptor to two wire plug in, or just a simple two wire plug without the screw base.
I think pretty much all LEDs now come as adjustable temperature, from 2700K to 5000K.

I would be looking for suggestions on those lights. These will just be the base navigation lights to get through the house.
Very handy that they have adjustable temp!

 

[skyking]

I'll do some studying and then put up a lighting plan for that front entry, dining, carport entry and the dining room side of the island.
I'm thinking at the very least of l shape of light that starts in the carport entry goes past the dining area and up to the front entrance on three way switches at either entrance.

 

[Greenman]

I would be looking for suggestions on those lights. These will just be the base navigation lights to get through the house.
Very handy that they have adjustable temp!

I'm pretty sure all the Halo recessed lights are adjustable now.