Front passenger-side wheel grinding and squeaking...

[edprush]

If I actually had to take this case to court, would it make fiscal sense.

I paid $400 for the new rotors, pads, and bearings about a week ago.

If I lose the court case I would be out attorney fees.

When it gets right down to it. It's his professional word against mine. I could just see myself getting cross-examined, "since you seem to KNOW it was the defendant's poor-workmanship can you please tell us the condition of your spindle before bringing your car to his shop."

I'd be dead in the water.

I will be polite when I talk to him again tomorrow. I'll see what happens.

 

[Late4Dinner]

When it gets right down to it. It's his professional word against mine. I could just see myself getting cross-examined, "since you seem to KNOW it was the defendant's poor-workmanship can you please tell us the condition of your spindle before bringing your car to his shop."

That's why you go to another shop to have it fixed and document the damage (photos, parts). You are not the expert witness, the second mechanic is. As far as the question of the condition of the spindle prior to service, you can say, "It wasn't making grinding noises." Besides, if the spindle were damaged prior to service, the mechanic would have told you so he could charge you to fix it.

 

[Eli]

Screw politeness, "You broke my sh!t, fix it."



I actually have the same problem, it is hard for me to get angry enough to demand that they make me happy.

Ex: I paid 350$ to have the carburetor on my Tercel rebuilt, because it wasn't running right. If it was any other carburetor, I would have done it myself, but this hybrid half-computer controlled variable venturi piece of sh!t is the worst thing Toyota has ever put on an engine.

Long story short, the carb rebuild didn't fix it, I didn't go back to the mechanic and ended up fixing it myself via getting a new Weber DGEV 32/36, which is glorious compared to that Aisan(company, not a typo) single barrel hunk of pot metal garbage.

 

[edprush]

Just a quick update. I've been fighting with the mechanics all day.

They started laughing at me when I said 'new bearings don't go bad often do they.' They replied, as they laughed, 'bearings go bad all the time. We'll give you the bearings free.'

They haven't even towed or looked at the vehicle yet but they told me that they're sure there was no spindle damage. And I asked them to tow it on their flatbed but they said they will tow it on it's rear wheels and "it won't hurt anything."

 

[Late4Dinner]

"bearings go bad all the time".

This is true--if they are junk bearings or are improperly installed. Decent bearinngs that are properly installed will usually last the life of the vehicle. In my life, I have have had to replace exactly one wheel bearing assembly, which was my fault.

they told me that they're sure there was no spindle damage

If the bearing has in inner race, he's probably right. If not, the odds are slightly favorable that this is true, but it is impossible to know for sure without inspection.

they said they will tow it on it's rear wheels and "it won't hurt anything."

With a manual transmission, true. With an automatic, only if the driveshaft is disconnected.

 

[edprush]

Well I'm back with brake issues that may or may not be related to my previous problem.

The mechanic supposedly fixed the previous problem even though he wouldn't tell me what the problem was.

Now the front-end shakes and skids to a stop when I lightly touch the brakes (if I'm going under 15 mph).

Any idea what this problem could be?

 

[patentman]

Originally posted by: Jahee
Your CV joints?

:thumbsup:

 

[edprush]

What typically causes CV joints to go bad? This mechanic has installed new CV joints at least once in the last 1.5 years and I think he did it once about 3.5 years ago.

 

[jagec]

Originally posted by: Late4Dinner
I think your next step would be to contact the mechanic (if your car is already there, go there in person, if not, you can do it over the phone). Tell him, nicely, your lawyer advised you to take the car to a different shop, document all damage that has occured, and file a lawsuit againt him and his shop. Tell him that's more hassle you want to go through and if he just fixes the car and reimburses your expenses (towing, rental car), you'll be more than happy to just put it behind you.

There's an even chance he'll go for it, if so, great. If not, your next step depends on if the car is at the shop or not. If it is, do not leave, call a tow truck immediately (you may want to have a cell phone on you as I doubt he'll let you use his) and have the car removed from his lot. Stay with the car until the tow truck arrives. When the car is off his lot, you can follow the steps outlined in the above paragraph. It might also be a good idea to call a lawyer at that point. Be sure to keep records of all expenses, including lawyer fees.

I'd give it another go the nice way before threatening a lawsuit, but to each his own.

 

[edprush]

I figured a lawsuit would cost me $1k and, if I won the lawsuit, I would save $150 by getting the repair for free. So I would still be out $850.

 

[Late4Dinner]

Now the front-end shakes and skids to a stop when I lightly touch the brakes (if I'm going under 15 mph).

There a number of possibilities here. Before I could answer that, it would help to know: 1) Disc or drum brakes? 2) Did it do this at all in the past? 3) Does the wheel still wobble as before?

Your CV joints?

The type of CV joints you folks are thinking of are not found on RWD vehicles.

What typically causes CV joints to go bad? This mechanic has installed new CV joints at least once in the last 1.5 years and I think he did it once about 3.5 years ago.

The #1 cause of CV joint damage is grease loss due to damaged CV boots. If the mechanic did replace CV joints on your RWD vehicle, then he just plain robbed you.

I'd give it another go the nice way before threatening a lawsuit, but to each his own.

I agree that lawsuits are best avoided. However sometimes they are necessary, such as with a crooked mechanic who needs to learn that ripping-off his customers isn't as profitable as he thinks.

I figured a lawsuit would cost me $1k and, if I won the lawsuit, I would save $150 by getting the repair for free. So I would still be out $850.

That is why you include court costs, attorney fees and "punitive damages" in the lawsuit.

Look, I'm not trying to pressure you with the whole lawsuit thing. I understand it's a huge pain in the ass, and you might lose, costing you some cash. Bear in mind, though, he is ripping you off now, and it sounds like he has ripped you off in the past. It's a pretty safe bet that you're not the only person he's ripped-off, or the last.

At the end of the day, it's your decision. I respect that. At least, though, find yourself a different mechanic.

Lemme know about my above questions.

 

[hanoverphist]

Originally posted by: Eli
Sounds like bearing failure, but I'm only basing this on the grease comment. Could easily be improperly installed brake components causing the heat buildup too.

At any rate, take it back to them immediately.. and make them check the other hubs too! Ugh, incompetent mechanics piss me off.

this is what i was thinking as well

 

[edprush]

Originally posted by: Late4Dinner

Now the front-end shakes and skids to a stop when I lightly touch the brakes (if I'm going under 15 mph).

There a number of possibilities here. Before I could answer that, it would help to know: 1) Disc or drum brakes? 2) Did it do this at all in the past? 3) Does the wheel still wobble as before?

Your CV joints?

The type of CV joints you folks are thinking of are not found on RWD vehicles.

What typically causes CV joints to go bad? This mechanic has installed new CV joints at least once in the last 1.5 years and I think he did it once about 3.5 years ago.

The #1 cause of CV joint damage is grease loss due to damaged CV boots. If the mechanic did replace CV joints on your RWD vehicle, then he just plain robbed you.

I'd give it another go the nice way before threatening a lawsuit, but to each his own.

I agree that lawsuits are best avoided. However sometimes they are necessary, such as with a crooked mechanic who needs to learn that ripping-off his customers isn't as profitable as he thinks.

I figured a lawsuit would cost me $1k and, if I won the lawsuit, I would save $150 by getting the repair for free. So I would still be out $850.

That is why you include court costs, attorney fees and "punitive damages" in the lawsuit.

Look, I'm not trying to pressure you with the whole lawsuit thing. I understand it's a huge pain in the ass, and you might lose, costing you some cash. Bear in mind, though, he is ripping you off now, and it sounds like he has ripped you off in the past. It's a pretty safe bet that you're not the only person he's ripped-off, or the last.

At the end of the day, it's your decision. I respect that. At least, though, find yourself a different mechanic.

Lemme know about my above questions.

1)I believe it is disc brakes. Brake pads and rotor on the front, so it can't be drum brakes, right?
2) It did something similiar when they replaced the front brakes a couple of years ago--one of the front brakes completely locked up and the tire wouldn't spin. I couldn't even drive out of their parking lot).
3) It does seem to wobble only at low speeds.

I'll have to check my receipts regarding the CV joint replacement...maybe it was tie-rod ends.

 

[CaptnKirk]

Nothing really, turn up the radio.