Fuji CD-R rebates are back! 50pack @ BB = $6.99 AR

[MIDIman]

I am glad they are moving to non-TY's so I won't be tempted to buy their cdr's anymore.

What other brand would you recommend? Off the top of my head I can't think of another good after rebate in-store CDR company thats guaranteed to be TYs! Everywhere I've looked online comes to ~$0.36/CD-R shipped for TYs, which is basically the same ore more than buying Fuji's without rebate.

 

[nebula]

Originally posted by: Dyre
Someone want to fill me in on the differences and why it matter?

TYs have been known for their consistent quality. When you burn a TY, you can be pretty sure there are no C2 errors or worse unreadable sectors. Why are C2 errors bad? Depending on the use of the CDR, it may not ever cause problems. If you make a VCD to play in a standalone DVD player and you encounter even a single C2 error, you will see pixelation, more errors and the picture will break up badly and audio will go out of sync. If it's a data disc, usually the drive can overcome quite a few errors, but not unreadable sectors. I'm sure most people have put a CDR in their CDROM and heard it grind and grind. That's a symptom of many errors and unreadable sectors, making if difficult or impossible to copy data off of the CDR, it happened to me just the other day with a crappy CDRW. How about when your car CD player won't read the disc...bad sectors.

VCDs don't use error correction like data discs do. You can actually put an 800mb VCD on a 700mb disc.

In summary, for data any CDR will usually be fine (except for the really bad discs), but if you have a picky CD player or are making VCDs, then quality is important.

 

[nebula]

Originally posted by: MIDIman

I am glad they are moving to non-TY's so I won't be tempted to buy their cdr's anymore.

What other brand would you recommend? Off the top of my head I can't think of another good after rebate in-store CDR company thats guaranteed to be TYs! Everywhere I've looked online comes to ~$0.36/CD-R shipped for TYs, which is basically the same ore more than buying Fuji's without rebate.

I agree, the Fujis seem to be the easiest to score TYs. I've heard the Maxell Pro CDRs are usually TYs. If you need CDRs and can't get TYs, or don't want to pay full price, try to get Riteks. These are somewhat harder to identify in the package because they are also made in Taiwan as are CMC.

 

[MIDIman]

These are somewhat harder to identify in the package because they are also made in Taiwan as are CMC.

Which IMHO is too risky...thus if it doesnt say Japan, I won't buy em.

 

[bjamm2]

picked up two packs today, over 100 spindles remaning(TONS available). all the ones i saw say Made In Japan...

Also in my 40x TDK 8x dvd burner here is the info

Media Information

Format Capacity Not Formatted
Free Blocks 736962560
Free Capacity 702.82MB(736.96MB)
Media Type CD-R
ATIP Start Time of Lead In (Media Code) 97m24s 1f
ATIP Last Possible Start Time of Lead Out 79m59s72f
Manufacturer Name Taiyo Yuden Company Limited
HD-BURN Certified YES
Available Write Descriptor CLV 40.0x 6000KBps
Available Write Descriptor CLV 32.0x 4800KBps
Available Write Descriptor CLV 16.0x 2400KBps
Available Write Descriptor CLV 8.0x 1200KBps
Available Write Descriptor CLV 4.0x 600KBps


CONFIRMED TY in DFW Best Buy stores, tons of spindles left and they are 48x rated. for 6.99 AR

 

[nebula]

Originally posted by: MIDIman

These are somewhat harder to identify in the package because they are also made in Taiwan as are CMC.

Which IMHO is too risky...thus if it doesnt say Japan, I won't buy em.

I can't find my link right now that talks about how to identify Riteks from the outside of the package but basically it's this:

gray spindle bottom, smooth top edge = Ritek
black spindle bottom, sharp top edge = CMC

I've only tested this once with TDKs but it held true.

 

[Mizer]

Originally posted by: nebula

Originally posted by: MIDIman

These are somewhat harder to identify in the package because they are also made in Taiwan as are CMC.

Which IMHO is too risky...thus if it doesnt say Japan, I won't buy em.

I can't find my link right now that talks about how to identify Riteks from the outside of the package but basically it's this:

gray spindle bottom, smooth top edge = Ritek
black spindle bottom, sharp top edge = CMC

I've only tested this once with TDKs but it held true.

And TDK rebates are super fast, I've sent out 4-TDK rebates and got them back in less than a month from the time I sent them!

Fuji can't be losing all are rebates, the resubmit is just B.S. to put you off longer. I have 4 out standing rebates some from late Oct. early Nov. that don't even show that they received them yet. :|

I'll not buy Fuji products anymore.

 

[Steven the Leech]

Ordered me a pack yesterday. The Free shipping is nice because I do not have a best buy locally.

 

[abc]

I just noticed that the 100 cylinder block I ordered online via bestbuy back during the week of 12.21.03, which was 24.99 before rebates of 10 or 15 bucks (dont remember because the order took so long to arrive , i forgot about it and never printed out the rebate form, which now I cannot find anymore) is all Made In Taiwan.

And the base shipped busted... thinking about taking back to bestbuy retail to get credit... but it has now turned over 3 days.

 

[quincy2002]

Originally posted by: nebula
I can't find my link right now that talks about how to identify Riteks from the outside of the package but basically it's this:

gray spindle bottom, smooth top edge = Ritek
black spindle bottom, sharp top edge = CMC

I've only tested this once with TDKs but it held true.

nebula -
I have some TDK Riteks, they have the rounded smooth top edge, but a gray base. Anyway, check here for some good info on identifying media.

 

[Nitemare]

Bad rebate experiences with Fuji here as well. If you get anything from Fuji count yourself lucky, if you get anything from them without doing a followup, call Ripley's Believe it or Not.

Filled out all the rebates properly, registered them online and mailed them(supposed to be a 4 week turnaround) I did the chat thing and asked where's my checks? They said that 2 had been approved, but the third had been rejected...but he would approve it just for me...how sweet. (All 3 had been submitted in the same envelope and the limit was 3) Checked after another 4 weeks and all 3 were shown as cutting check. Bitched to the online guy again. He assured me that everything was ok, they were just getting swamped and this was a one time event. 6 weeks later I get my checks. This was at Compusa

I also submitted 2 more rebates since then. One id going on 5 weeks and the other has been 8 weeks. One was at Best Buy and the other was at fficeMax. I will never buy Fuji again until the rebate system gets an overhaul or the rebate is an instant one. It is nowhere near worth the hassle. One time event my ass.

 

[MIDIman]

(All 3 had been submitted in the same envelope and the limit was 3)

Some of the rebate slips I've seen say you can only combine two per envelope. Just to be safe, I always send em out in separate envelopes - no big deal.

One id going on 5 weeks and the other has been 8 weeks.

Mine generally have always taken up to 8 weeks.

 

[Nitemare]

Originally posted by: MIDIman

(All 3 had been submitted in the same envelope and the limit was 3)

Some of the rebate slips I've seen say you can only combine two per envelope. Just to be safe, I always send em out in separate envelopes - no big deal.

One id going on 5 weeks and the other has been 8 weeks.

Mine generally have always taken up to 8 weeks.

Why do they say 4 weeks on the website then?

 

[Demogorgo]

When sending in Fujifilm rebates, always follow the instructions on the rebate form. Never choose to register the rebates through myrewards.info , because that always ruins it for some reason.