FuzzyDunlops Toyota MR2 MK1.5 build thread.

[jlee]

Uh, David Hawkins FTMFW?

yar.

www.twosrus.com

Tell him James and Josh sent you.

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

I dunno if he'll sell only the bracket, but Ill give him a try. Ill also give him a warning too because he also uses NuGeon callipers, which I beleive these are.

EDIT: no dice on only brackets from dave. Gotta be the whole calliper assembly -

 

[jlee]

I dunno if he'll sell only the bracket, but Ill give him a try. Ill also give him a warning too because he also uses NuGeon callipers, which I beleive these are.

EDIT: no dice on only brackets from dave. Gotta be the whole calliper assembly - which I dont want to risk because he uses the same remanufacturer

I was hoping he'd have a parts car, but maybe he's out of them. Sorry dude

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

I found a guy in Michigan who is going to be shipping some brackets for my brakes.

Today I had a special delivery!

The MK2 is now in my garage. Immediately after work I started prepping to drop the engine.
All the fluids are out. There was not a whole lot of engine oil which concerns me. About a liter and half less than there should have been. The transmission oil was very clean though.

Another thing that concerns me is that all along the air intake piping, from air filter to intercooler there is this black film covering in the inside. What I find strange is that the pipe from the intercooler to the throttle body is mirror clean… WTH? Does this mean this intercooler could be full of this crap?

I rubber some between my fingers and it dried fast. It was almost like a paste, and wasn’t slippery like oil.
Any ideas? Is this normal?

As she sits now, everything is ready to drop the engine except for one water inlet pipe that is being a PITA to get off (I may just cut it since I will need to find a different sized one to fit the MK1), some suspension, and the exhaust. Surprisingly I had almost no trouble loosening the axel nuts. I had to buy a new 32mm socket for $11, but other than that they twisted off with minor effort and no curse words.

If all goes well then either tomorrow or Friday evening I should be able to drop the engine. well, actually I plan on lifting the car off the engine... rather than dropping the engine from the car... but that just a technicallity

 

[SonicIce]

damn thats ugly now, hope you're able to finish it

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

damn thats ugly now, hope you're able to finish it

yea, beaten like a redheaded step-child. Was once a thing of beauty though. Shame. I wasnt real careful while moving it around either. I pushed it around with a skidsteer lol.

 

[jlee]

Yeah, that's oil in the intercooler. The turbo seals may be on their way out, or it could just be buildup over years and years. Does the turbo have any shaft play?

Wow, you're lucky on the axle nuts. I broke two 1/2" drive breaker bars before I bought a 3/4".

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

Yeah, that's oil in the intercooler. The turbo seals may be on their way out, or it could just be buildup over years and years. Does the turbo have any shaft play?

I find it strange that its also in the piping between the air filter and turbo though.

I just ran out an checked the turbo for play. None :thumbsup: and it spins freely between my fingers. oooh baby.

EDIT: The previous owner did put a K&N filter on : could this gunk simply be from repeated over application of filter oil?

RE EDIT: my neighbor looked at my engine and he pointed out that the oil gunk build up start where there is an air return from the cam shaft cover to the instake piping (just before the turbo). I forget what he called that piping... will have to do some research.

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

First off, this ones for Jlee.

Axel nut FTL!
The other day I was able to crack those axel nuts, no problem. BUT the left one decided, “you know what, eff you man, Im going to stop half way.”
FFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFUUUUUUUUUUUUU

Soaked in PB blaster 16 hours = no budge. Heated it to a red glow = no budge. I dont have an impact gun.

I first tried to stick a piece of angle iron between the studs and wedged it against the ground as I twisted off the 32mm axel nut. With my 28” breaker bar and a 3 foot section of pipe on the end I just bent that angle iron like butter. SO I upped it to some thicker angle iron, but that also started to buckle and actually broke one of the studs clear off the hub. fffffuuuuuuuu

Not only that but the 32mm socket I bought has a bevelled edge that was allowing it to slip and sheer the edges of the axel nut. Double ffffuuuuuuuuuuuuu

Lights bulbs turn on. First thing first, I took out my angle grinder and got rid of the bevels

Then I took a thick piece of T-bar that I had saved from an overhead garage door that broke. I drilled some holes in it and slipped it over two of the studs. (you can see the broken stud at the top of the hub in this photos)

Then I put my jack under the end of an extension and prayed/crossed fingers hoping that the ½ drive wouldn’t snap.

And it didn’t! But fffuuuuu, my back hurts tonight.

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

SO after all that bad luck, double good luck happened! Jlee will know instantly.

1) After popping out my axels I found this inside

I danced a jig when I found it. Very happiness. BUT, what is “it” you may ask. Well, that bar sitting in the middle of the shaft there, indicates that this JDM 3SGTE just so happened to come with a Limited Slip Differential. Yeeeeaaaaas! Oh baby! The LSD wasnt supposed to be available until 1993, which makes me wonder if this car wasnt mislabeled when it came from Japan. Also, it double luck, because the LSD was an OPTION in 1993 - and this one just so happens to be one. nice.

2) With all the suspension out of the way I was able to drop the engine. The guide I was following said to lower the engine from the bay as the car is suspended. BUT I did things my own way and lowered the car down just till the engine rested on my dolly then lifted the car away from the engine.

And there she be, the magnificent 3SGTE.

I took a couple shots beside the old 4AGE that used to be in the car. The 3S dwarfs it.

So ya. Was a good day. Very excited about the LSD. Cam seals on the 3S are bad, so the whole right side of the engine is covered in oil. Definitely an issue that will need to be resolved in the future.

BUT! now the fun begins as I try to stuff this thing into that tiny engine bay.

 

[jlee]

Heh axle nuts FTL....LSD FTMFW though. :awe:

 

[JCH13]

Awesome progress!

 

[sjwaste]

I find it strange that its also in the piping between the air filter and turbo though.

I just ran out an checked the turbo for play. None :thumbsup: and it spins freely between my fingers. oooh baby.

EDIT: The previous owner did put a K&N filter on : could this gunk simply be from repeated over application of filter oil?

RE EDIT: my neighbor looked at my engine and he pointed out that the oil gunk build up start where there is an air return from the cam shaft cover to the instake piping (just before the turbo). I forget what he called that piping... will have to do some research.

Oil in the intercooler and the piping to it is common on Toyota turbos. Don't be surprised if you tip the IC and can pour a quart out on a 10 year old part. The Toyota turbos do blow some oil by, but they are incredibly durable. I have 200k on a stock CT-26.

Ditto on the oil film ahead of the turbo. That's the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) which allows pressure to escape the block. That air is going to have some oil in it, and it's going to condense on the cooler intake surfaces, since that's where it's routed. It's a plus. You can avoid this by venting your PCV through a small filter directly to atmosphere, but I don't think that's emissions-legal, and you will have some oil in the engine bay (but not in your intake). I believe K&N makes PCV breather filters if you're so inclined, but I don't think it's worth the trouble.

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

Oil in the intercooler and the piping to it is common on Toyota turbos. Don't be surprised if you tip the IC and can pour a quart out on a 10 year old part. The Toyota turbos do blow some oil by, but they are incredibly durable. I have 200k on a stock CT-26.

Ditto on the oil film ahead of the turbo. That's the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) which allows pressure to escape the block. That air is going to have some oil in it, and it's going to condense on the cooler intake surfaces, since that's where it's routed. It's a plus. You can avoid this by venting your PCV through a small filter directly to atmosphere, but I don't think that's emissions-legal, and you will have some oil in the engine bay (but not in your intake). I believe K&N makes PCV breather filters if you're so inclined, but I don't think it's worth the trouble.

awesome. good to know. I probably wont put that filter on if the oil isnt really hurting anything.

 

[jlee]

awesome. good to know. I probably wont put that filter on if the oil isnt really hurting anything.

Yeah, I wouldn't worry about it.

 

[JCH13]

It can hurt power a little bit, oil has a really shitty octane rating, so the simple fix is an oil catch can mounted in the PCV system.

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

It can hurt power a little bit, oil has a really shitty octane rating, so the simple fix is an oil catch can mounted in the PCV system.

hmm, does this then recirculate that oil back in to the engine? Or is it something I will continuosly need to be draining?

 

[JCH13]

hmm, does this then recirculate that oil back in to the engine? Or is it something I will continuosly need to be draining?

Unless something is wrong with your engine you should only need to drain it every few months. Most come with a sight tube to quickly tell how much goop is in it.

 

[slag]

Why didn't you put a 3/4 inch impact driver on that axle nut and just let it hammer away? I don't remember, maybe you don't have air?

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

Why didn't you put a 3/4 inch impact driver on that axle nut and just let it hammer away? I don't remember, maybe you don't have air?

I have a weak compressor (2.35 at 90psi), but no impact gun.

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

Waiting on parts as I’ve had a few hickups since dropping the engine.
One being the alternator bracket I had purchased back in December is the incorrect alternator bracket. (I need to change the alternator and bracket in order to make this engine fit into a MK1 engine bay: otherwise the stock alternator will rest against the rear firewall.) Waiting on that.

^^ I need the one on the left, and have the one on the right. Both brackets are from a Toyota 5SFE engine, the difference is that the one on the left is for a car without power steering - and that’s the one I need.

Also, I was going to use the MK2 axels but had to switch the outer CV joint to one from an ‘88 Camry V6. It was supposed to be straight plug and play, but it is not. Derp. So I am getting a fellow at Chico Race Works in California to build me some axels for my car. They are guaranteed for life (minus the boots), and there has been much praise for them. I believe one fellow is using them on a 527hp Mk1 (holy shit!!).

^^those should be the same size… but aren’t. grrr

Also, coming in the mail this next week should be a new front lip for both cars and brake calliper brackets.

Once I receive all that, I should be able to move ahead quickly. After wiring It will be random hoses and clamps and finished.

To do list
-finish brakes
-install gas tank
-install alternator bracket
-find alternator and serpentine belt
-lift engine and position into bay.
-insert axels
-weld in engine mounts
-engine harness wiring
-shift cables, clutch lines
-air intake plumbing
-coolant plumbing
-throttle cable, speedometer cable

Oh, another set back - this is my thumb after a minor hammer contact situation. Think I should get stitches?

 

[Black2na]

stiches? dont be a girl! and at this point it looks well onto it way of healing just keep it clean youll be fine ive done worse. remeber chicks dig scars...but wifes hate them and call you stupid...

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

Lol, ya, I hate to bug doctors unless I absolutlely need to anyways: Its free for me (socialism ftw), but I dont like to take advantage of the system.

Spent the afternoon working on the car today.
Painted the gas tank with POR15 (had some rust on the bottom of the tank).
Re-installed the radiator which I had professionally cleaned and painted.
Installed the front sway bar with new bushings and end links.
Installed the shift cables in the cab (they will need a little work once I get the car running - some guys have found that they need to adjust the length of their cables by a few millimeters to make them work properly)

Oh ya, and also temporarilly installed the engine.

Easier said than done.
For now I just tack welded in the motor mounts as I know exactly where I need to place them with todays test fit. Tomorrow I lower the engine out again and weld in the mounts permanent.

The 3SGTE is tight in there, but there is actually more room than I was expecting. Ill probably take back those words once I try to pack all the plumbing in. The hard part was getting the engine angles correct as the 3SGTE sits on a weird tilt. BUt after studying a few photos from other guys' builds, I think I have it exactly where it needs to be.

 

[JCH13]

:awe:

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

Spent the whole day wiring the engine harness today. Got'er done!! ooooh yaaa. Working on plumbing now.

What sucks is I had to buy a new alternator which costed as much as this car. I need to buy a smaller one because the stock is too large and hits the firewall.