Geforce GTX 1080 Ti now official - Faster than Titan X ($699)

[tential]

This card is about 6 days old, and the PS4/XBone are more than 2 years old now.

Let's see where we are with Scorpio some time next year.

I don't think anyone here would be defending the universally understood poor performance of your average console when it comes to PC, but you're always going to have these issues with a piece of hardware that is designed to have a long, tedious life span.

....that being said: yeah, these consoles are only 2 years old, and back at a time when 1080/30p really wasn't all that hard for a midrange PC dGPU to accomplish. (but again, just one card). And I doubt the Vega card in Scorpio is going to be directly competing with the 1080ti, but is "purportedly" capable of 4k60p. I'm assuming that there will be quality setting compromises to achieve this in a console.

What consoles are you guys talking about? PS4 Pro is out, and there is no Xbox console til Scorpio.

What are these PS4 and Xbone consoles you're talking about?

Also why are we talking about high end GPUs and consoles? If you want $500+ GPUs for gaming, you care far more about the end result than the cost.....

 

[moonbogg]

Welps either I lost the lottery, or something is wrong on my end. I should have benched it with the stock shroud for comparisons :/

I got my EVGA Hybrid CLC installed, but I've been busy so I didn't get to bench the card with the stock cooler. Either way, seems the mod works temps are fine, and core never goes over 50c in the tests I manage to complete. But my OC limits are rather low.

I can't seem to more then +150 offset to the core and finish a Unigine Heaven with out it pausing. It doesn't flat out crash but it is apart my driver is either crashing or restarting.

Max core I see is 2025 and it doesn't seem to sustain it even with maximum power option on. Unless I'm doing something wrong. Funny thing is, I run more stable with offset +150 on core/memory with Power @100% then if I increase power limit. So not sure what wall I'm hitting or my die is just the loser of it's yield.

Welps, tad disappointed, but glad the hybrid worked. Took about 30 minutes to install.

Could it be the VRM's or mosfets heating up? I'm pretty sure most cards clock right about the same. The only times I've heard of these cards holding 2.1 is under a waterblock which cools VRM's and mosfets. Hopefully you just need a little tweaking, but to be honest, anything close to 2ghz is effectively the same, be it 1950 or 2100. Its only the psychological value of that 2.1ghz magic number. It looks like 2.1 will be the number for people to try and hit, just like 1500 was with the 980ti. Although I never even tried to go further. I will try for 2.2 and see if something breaks. Stay tuned.

 

[Aikouka]

I got my EVGA Hybrid CLC installed, but I've been busy so I didn't get to bench the card with the stock cooler. Either way, seems the mod works temps are fine, and core never goes over 50c in the tests I manage to complete. But my OC limits are rather low.

Did you follow any specific guides or instructions to install it? My 1080 Ti came in today, but my Hybrid won't come in until tomorrow.

I'll admit that I took another look at flat-out water cooling, but I'd definitely be looking at around $300 ($120-150 block, $80 radiator, $75 top+res). I could save some money by using my existing top and reservoir, but they're kind of bulky for my smaller case. I really don't want to break out the 900D again.

 

[railven]

I wish I had benched it prior to taking it apart and slapping on the hybrid. Fool! I want to say I was able to do +200/+250 just randomly but I didn't stress test it. Also with the stock cooler @ 100%.

Oh well, I'll think. I'll give it a shot with the blower fan @100% and see if I can get anything else, otherwise it stays at +150/+150 and I just go on with my life haha.

Did you follow any specific guides or instructions to install it? My 1080 Ti came in today, but my Hybrid won't come in until tomorrow.

I'll admit that I took another look at flat-out water cooling, but I'd definitely be looking at around $300 ($120-150 block, $80 radiator, $75 top+res). I could save some money by using my existing top and reservoir, but they're kind of bulky for my smaller case. I really don't want to break out the 900D again.

I basically got the idea when the 1080 FE came out and Nexus Gamer managed to slap a 980/980 Ti Hybrid kit on it. They did the same thing with the Titan Xp and recently uploaded a video with the same setup with the GTX 1080 Ti. Outside of a different pump/radiator, it seems EVGA uses the same mounting plate for the 980/980Ti/1070/1080 Hybrid kits. Only differences are focused on the shrouds (since NV changed the stock shroud design from 980/Ti to 1080/Ti. But the CLC itself mounts fine. It will look basically like the image I posted a few pages back or just check out this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TX0nQdCRE9Q

Only thing is I didn't do a full dismantle like he did (for part 1 of his review). I was able to just remove the top of the shroud and get to the fan power cable with my fingers and some tweezers. Mine looks identical to his end result.

I just saw he posted his results video roughly 8hrs ago. I want to see if he hits something similar to me or I just got the lemon.

EDIT: I'd like to add EVGA are gouging with their kits. The 980/980 Ti kit originally launched for $100, went on sale for as cheap as $70, was at one point on Amazon for $55, and after EVGA discontinued it they basically use the same Asetek pump but now charge $130. Rat bastards.

EDIT #2: Seems like their results videos goes over exactly what I was wondering. At work so will watch when I can. Even more interested to see their results.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DdYEqTolk0Q

 

[railven]

Seems MOSFETs are not affected but they didn't get to cover VRAM temps. Welps, it's official. I got the lemon. Time to RMA it. :O

I kid. Haha.

 

[badb0y]

I'm actually pissed now. It didn't come in >.<

 

[moonbogg]

2150 crashes almost instantly. I got the new precision X which supposedly let me adjust voltage, but if that's working, it didn't help. So far, 2150 = instant crash, 2114 = stable as the laws of physics.

 

[Aikouka]

I basically got the idea when the 1080 FE came out and Nexus Gamer managed to slap a 980/980 Ti Hybrid kit on it. They did the same thing with the Titan Xp and recently uploaded a video with the same setup with the GTX 1080 Ti. Outside of a different pump/radiator, it seems EVGA uses the same mounting plate for the 980/980Ti/1070/1080 Hybrid kits. Only differences are focused on the shrouds (since NV changed the stock shroud design from 980/Ti to 1080/Ti. But the CLC itself mounts fine. It will look basically like the image I posted a few pages back or just check out this video:

Ahh, okay... thanks! I just wanted to make sure I wasn't taking off more than what was necessary. I had seen their first video, and I saw that they took the entire thing apart, which I figured wasn't necessary. I'm guessing that you didn't have to remove the backplate?

Oh, and I did a bit of gaming with the card in its normal state, and goodness... I'm not sure how people stand these blower-style coolers. They're so noisy.

 

[railven]

Ahh, okay... thanks! I just wanted to make sure I wasn't taking off more than what was necessary. I had seen their first video, and I saw that they took the entire thing apart, which I figured wasn't necessary. I'm guessing that you didn't have to remove the backplate?

Oh, and I did a bit of gaming with the card in its normal state, and goodness... I'm not sure how people stand these blower-style coolers. They're so noisy.

Definitely is doable, in fact, all you have to remove are approximately 8-10-screws.

The grey portion with the word GTX 1080 Ti and the clear window is held on by 4 screws. Two black ones on the side of the card, and two hex screws by the Blower (they are the smaller ones). You can know slide off that whole grey cover. You can also fasten the screws back on to the cover for storage purposes (as you won't be needing it anymore).
Once the grey cover is off, you can now remove the black shroud that covers the fan by removing 6 screws. The remaining 2 hex screws, and 4-smaller black screws (you can follow the the shroud to see where they connect, two are right next to the fan and the other two along the border towards the heat sink.) Unplug the the GEFORCE LED and this whole part comes off.
You can remove the heat sink by removing the four tension screws on the back, no need to remove the Back Plate.
Now the tricky part, if you got good hands it shouldn't be too hard. You can see the fan power in a small open next to the fan. Just unplug it, plug your pump+pass thru and connect it back to the power plug. This would definitely be easier if you can remove the grey shroud portion but that is held on by screws that you can only access by removing the whole cooling plate, which requires a bunch of step and of course I said screw that.
Once the plug is in, tuck the cable a little, connect the black portion with the GEFORGE LED logo (power too), and slide it under your hoses (snug fit). Screw the 4 little screws and two hex screws. Line up your pump plate, and screw in the four tension screws. Done.

Took me about 30-35 minutes, half asleep without morning coffee. Tweezers will be a big help, I got large hands so I couldn't get my fingers into the small opening. And at first I wanted to remove the grey portion of the shroud but watching their tear down video I saw how its held on, and the amount of work wasn't worth it.



And yeah, the ref blower is only good up to 40-45% load, after that, its unbearable.

 

[HannooFX]

Got mine yesterday, card is a beast.

Got it to run stable with +150MHz on core and +400MHz on ram with maximum power and temp limits, card hovers between 1950 and 1960MHz at load, and over 2000MHz at beginning of any load till it hits 85C. not bad for reference card.

Noise is exactly same as my GTX 1080 (even sounds lower? because fan kind of stays below 60% all the time)

4K is now smooth very playable on Witcher 3, Quantum Break, Gear of War 4, Rise of Tomb Raider and Crysis 3...incredible

For some reason my timespy number is lower than what I would have liked, looks like my 4790K could be a bottleneck

http://www.3dmark.com/spy/1389746

I guess it is time to put my i7 6800K system together.

Now I am in dilemma whether to get the EVGA hybrid cooler for $100 to cool it or use EVGA step up program and get FTW3 or SC2 when they come out and pay the difference

 

[railven]

I need to try my card with a little more on the memory. Wish I could monitor the temps, with no real active cooling on them I'm a tad nervous to raise em too high. First time since I got my Corsair 780T do I miss having a side panel fan. Haha.

Was gaming last night at +150/+150, temps never broke 44c, still can't hear it over my case fans and got the blower fan @40% just to satisfy my paranoia.

 

[tajoh111]

This card is about 6 days old, and the PS4/XBone are more than 2 years old now.

Let's see where we are with Scorpio some time next year.

I don't think anyone here would be defending the universally understood poor performance of your average console when it comes to PC, but you're always going to have these issues with a piece of hardware that is designed to have a long, tedious life span.

....that being said: yeah, these consoles are only 2 years old, and back at a time when 1080/30p really wasn't all that hard for a midrange PC dGPU to accomplish. (but again, just one card). And I doubt the Vega card in Scorpio is going to be directly competing with the 1080ti, but is "purportedly" capable of 4k60p. I'm assuming that there will be quality setting compromises to achieve this in a console.

I think the general argument against consoles is highly valid this generation because they are absolutely underpowered and the fault of this is both companies used APU for the brains of the consoles.

The ps3 and xbox 360 came with graphics that were at the top of the line level upon release. Particularly the xbox 360, it wasn't as much of the case with the ps3, but this was because the ps3 was repeatedly delayed. The same could be said of the PS2 and xbox, top of the line graphics with the xbox one chips faster than what was commercially available in the PC.

On the other hand,the ps4 and xbox ones came out with 1,8 and 1,3 tflops of power when the PC was moving onto 6 tflops of power already. These consoles were outdated the day they were launched.

Only now with the ps4 pro are we getting something in the 4 tflop region and this is when cards were in the 9 tflop region or 11 tflop region. The PC masterrace is really becoming relevent because ancient PC parts(4 to 5 years old) are just as powerful as the hardware in the ps4 pro.

The PS4 pro is what should have been in the original ps4 in 2013. But console makers got cheap and decided to use APU's. If consoles used discrete GPU's, we would be further ahead in terms of graphics for both consoles and the PC.

Thinking back, one of the reasons why videocards have risen so much is because console gaming is less competitive with the PC market. The Console market used to be a more valid alternative to PC gaming because the console was the best way to get a heavily subsidized gaming PC. With Console makers removing the subsidy, gamers were basically getting striped down gaming PC's with console makers not really taking a loss. This increased the gap between videocards and consoles which made discrete videocards value proposition increase.

If consoles came with 6 tflop graphics 3.5 years ago, the value proposition of discrete videocards would have been less and the price increase would have been less justified.

 

[moonbogg]

With PC you definitely pay to play though. Although there are many low cost 1080p choices for GPU's that perform admirably.

 

[moonbogg]

Precision X has a checkbox under settings that seems to indicate if overvoltage is on or off. I am unable to select that box, however, on the front of the program in the main UI, there is a little slider which lets me drag the voltage up and down as a percentage. I don't think that's working. With a little extra voltage I think this card could hit 2200. It would power throttle in programs like 3Dmark, but I don't think it would power throttle very much, if at all, during games. I would love to have a little extra voltage to mess with but I think its currently disabled. I think people will write custom BIOS' for these cards and I'd love to see the results with a little extra voltage and power headroom.

 

[KentState]

Mine also came in. Happy at stock settings for now on my 1440p G-sync monitor. Andromeda was dipping below 60fps at times and even saw 40fps, but now that's not an issue.

 

[moonbogg]

Mine also came in. Happy at stock settings for now on my 1440p G-sync monitor. Andromeda was dipping below 60fps at times and even saw 40fps, but now that's not an issue.

Isn't it beautiful? I have to admit, I just fondled the card for a while and admired the beauty of the stock fan. Its very well made. I then promptly ripped it off.
Your mention of Andromeda dropping below 60 makes me instinctively want to get another 1080ti, but I'm not paying another $850 to get 20 more FPS in that game. Nope, this time I will LOWER SETTINGS. Can't believe I said that, but that's what I'll do.
My thinking has now changed. If a game doesn't get over 60fps on the best card available, then that's just how the game runs. I can lower settings or just wait for the next card to come out.

 

[KentState]

Isn't it beautiful? I have to admit, I just fondled the card for a while and admired the beauty of the stock fan. Its very well made. I then promptly ripped it off.
Your mention of Andromeda dropping below 60 makes me instinctively want to get another 1080ti, but I'm not paying another $850 to get 20 more FPS in that game. Nope, this time I will LOWER SETTINGS. Can't believe I said that, but that's what I'll do.
My thinking has now changed. If a game doesn't get over 60fps on the best card available, then that's just how the game runs. I can lower settings or just wait for the next card to come out.

This is the first reference card I've owned in maybe 20 years, but I do think it's a very well made card down to the back plate which never used to be a "stock" feature. It does get warm, but it's not audible over the game volume so not a big deal. Maybe when a 1080Ti isn't cutting it anymore, I will throw a water cooling solution on it.

 

[ddogg]

Isn't it beautiful? I have to admit, I just fondled the card for a while and admired the beauty of the stock fan. Its very well made. I then promptly ripped it off.
Your mention of Andromeda dropping below 60 makes me instinctively want to get another 1080ti, but I'm not paying another $850 to get 20 more FPS in that game. Nope, this time I will LOWER SETTINGS. Can't believe I said that, but that's what I'll do.
My thinking has now changed. If a game doesn't get over 60fps on the best card available, then that's just how the game runs. I can lower settings or just wait for the next card to come out.

Yup, no more SLI for me as well as it's simply not worth the money and hassle. Going to be Titan or x80 Ti cards going forward.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

 

[Bacon1]

Your mention of Andromeda dropping below 60 makes me instinctively want to get another 1080ti,

I'll save you the money, Andromeda doesn't even support SLI/CFX yet

 

[Aikouka]

Definitely is doable, in fact, all you have to remove are approximately 8-10-screws.

Thanks for your help. I got it done tonight! It took me a bit longer given I didn't have a very good pair of tweezers. I think it was actually this weird screwdriver with a spike on the end that I used to get it out, but it still took a while. The only other part that took a while was finding screws to attach the radiator to the case. I didn't see any screws that seemed like they were for that in the little bag as the only large screws were the heatsink screws. I ended up finding some in a random collection of screws, but then I found out a common complaint about the Hybrid system: the fan is noisy. Fortunately, I've got a bunch of fans lying around, and I'll either go with a Corsair SP120 or a Noctua NF-P12.

 

[ddogg]

So I was finally able to get the card up and running last night and I got it running stable at 2125/6000 easily. I think I can get more on the memory but the core refused to go any higher. It was getting late and I'll try tweaking some more tomorrow. Temps were hitting a max of 35-37C under heavy load. This card is just nuts and I'm pretty happy with my results so far.

 

[badb0y]

So I was finally able to get the card up and running last night and I got it running stable at 2125/6000 easily. I think I can get more on the memory but the core refused to go any higher. It was getting late and I'll try tweaking some more tomorrow. Temps were hitting a max of 35-37C under heavy load. This card is just nuts and I'm pretty happy with my results so far.

Is that on stock voltage? Mine tops out at 2088, I need to put some voltage through the card soon.

 

[moonbogg]

So I was finally able to get the card up and running last night and I got it running stable at 2125/6000 easily. I think I can get more on the memory but the core refused to go any higher. It was getting late and I'll try tweaking some more tomorrow. Temps were hitting a max of 35-37C under heavy load. This card is just nuts and I'm pretty happy with my results so far.

I thought my memory wouldn't go that high, but it was my CPU that needed a little voltage bump. My 1080ti memory hits 6000 no problem as well, so that's very cool. I did notice that it didn't improve my 3Dmark score a single point though, so I'll play with it some more to find any benefit of pushing the memory. Grats on the beastly card.

 

[ddogg]

Is that on stock voltage? Mine tops out at 2088, I need to put some voltage through the card soon.

It hit 2100/6000 on stock volts. I needed to bump the voltage to +50 to give it another 25mhz. I think I can get more on the memory but I'll tweak it later today when I get back home. I might have gotten a little lucky as well. Thermals are also fantastic. My 1080s used to hover in the mid 40s

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

 

[moonbogg]

I think 2100/6000 as stated above is the yellow brick road to skip on for these impressive cards.