Gigabyte P35 Motherboard Thread

[mylittlepony]

You may have noticed under the BIOS's "Intelligent Tweaker" menu there is an item labeled C.I.A.2 (CPU Intelligent Accelerator). From what I understand, it "overclocks on the fly."

There are 5 modes (other than "Disabled" that claim to boost the CPU from 5% to 19% depending on loading.

I'm running "Racing" mode now (9-11% boost).

Currently, here's my system at idle:

2000 Mhz (throttled down, I'm assuming using the CPU EIST (SpeedStep) tech.
Temp1: 51C
Temp2: 32C
Core0: 30C
Core1: 31C

I then ran ORTHOS for 5 minutes. After five minutes:
CPU core speed: 3093.2 Mhz
Multiplier: X8.0
Bus Speed: 386.6 Mhz
Rated FSB: 1546.6 Mhz

Temp1: 51C
Temp2: 56C
Core0: 52C
Core1: 52C

That's with the stock heatsink/cooler, E6750, eVGA 8800 GTS in a Coolermaster CENTURION 5 case.

Not too bad....

 

[Kougar]

Mylittlepony, you must run your RAM at the specifications your RAM calls for. Your Corsair 6400c4 RAM calls for 2.1v. This is not anyone's recommendation, this is Corsair's own specs. It probably explains some of the crashes, restarts, and issues you are having and why you had to raise all your voltages to those extremes at stock speeds. I'm holding the module in my hand, and it even says 2.1v on the label. Newegg specs say 2.1v. Corsair's website says 2.1v. You use 1.8v at your own risk. :roll:

Allistah,

Orthos is easier to manage than the original Prime95, since Prime95 only loads a single core per program. You'd have to run 2 of them to load a dual-core.

Orthos has the same issue, it only loads 2 cores and not 4 (There is Prime95V2 for quads)... but since you have a E6850 it is fine. I would say 25 minutes is okay for a quick check, but if you want guaranteed 100% stability then nothing under 12 hours will suffice. I've seen errors crop up past the 8 hour mark to many times. Typically it is recommended once you find your overclock you wish to use for 24/7 use then you run it for 24 hours. At which point you should have a fully stable system if it passes without any errors detected. If you want to test the entire system including the PSU in a "worst-case scenario"-say gaming for several hours-, you can also start ATI Tool and let it run it's rotating cube in the background. That'll get the inside case temps cooking and make your PSU put up a sweat.

 

[mylittlepony]

Originally posted by: Kougar
Mylittlepony, you must run your RAM at the specifications your RAM calls for. Your Corsair 6400c4 RAM calls for 2.1v. This is not anyone's recommendation, this is Corsair's own specs. It probably explains some of the crashes, restarts, and issues you are having and why you had to raise all your voltages to those extremes at stock speeds. I'm holding the module in my hand, and it even says 2.1v on the label. Newegg specs say 2.1v. Corsair's website says 2.1v. You use 1.8v at your own risk. :roll:

I've been running it at 2.1 (boosted +.3 in the BIOS). I'd misread an earlier comment by you about the voltages...I initially thought you said 1.8 was spec, but actually you were just saying it's the JEDEC spec. My bad.

I just discovered a BIOS setting I hadn't noticed before that could be a factor...In "Power Management" there is an HPET (High Precision Event Timer) setting that defaults to 32. Apparently, you're supposed to set it to 64 if you're running Vista 64, which I am. Hard to say if that really affects anything, but I've been running a few hours with that new setting with no bluescreens.

 

[Kougar]

Sorry for the confusion then. Yes I had meant 1.8v was JEDEC specs, which is why Gigabyte boards always default to 1.8v. If I can make simple things like that confusing, now you know why I'm taking forever with the guide.

I briefly read something regarding HPET, but I don't remember it now... ah, okay it was in the Gigabyte manual. You got it correct, it needs to be set specifically for the version of Vista being used... All I could remember was HPET is a setting that was designed for Vista exclusively and XP can't do anything with it. More info on it here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High_Precision_Event_Timer

 

[Allistah]

Hey guys, I put my GA-P35-DQ6 system together last night with an e3850 proc and 2 sticks of the Ballastix Tracer DDR2 800 ram. I loaded the bios and set to optimized settings and installed XP.

One thing that I did not change was the voltage for the ram. So I'm guessing it's running at 1.8v. I ram Ortho for about 6 hours last night and didn't have a problem - I even had the ATI tool running with the spinning cube to make sure the system was fully loaded.

I'm running with Option 1 on memory and set to Turbo which was the defaults for me. I was expecting to have all kinds of problems without setting the ram voltage and setting that thing to option 2.

I have a rev 1 board and version 4L I think it was of the bios.

Any comments? Why is this thing working without any problems? I'm not complaining at all, I was just expecting to have to adjust a few things and I'm wondering whats different to make it work fine without it. I still plan on running Ortho for 24 hours to ensure it's stable at some point.

-Allistah

 

[bartmannz]

On my P35-DS4 I've got smartfan issues on cold bootup and I've come to the conclusion its probably a bios problem.

On the F4 BIOS with smartfan enabled, on cold bootup (ie first thing in the morning) the cpu fan runs 100% and stays there. If I run easytune5 the smartfan button is greyed out. If I then reboot, the CPU fan slows down and easytune5 allows tweaks to the be made to fan settings, ie all normal.

Thinking this was a bit poo, I updated bios to F5G (the beta bios). Now, on cold startup, the CPU fan doesn't run at all and easytune again shows smartfan as being disabled. Reboot, and the fan starts up normally, easytune now smartfan is enabled.

If I shutdown/restart the PC during the day there is no problem, its only when its stone cold first thing in the morning.

No amount of messing with the smartfan setting (ie auto/intel/legacy or voltage/pwn control seems to fix the problem. Not wanting to reboot my PC twice every morning, I've disabled and then the fan just runs 100%, even from cold startup. The fan (a 120mm BB on an Thermalright 120 Ultra Extreme) is a bit noisy unnecessarily when the the system isn't being stressed.

I'm hoping this will be fixed in the next bios, since the way it 'doesn't work' has changed between bios versions it would seem its a bios problem. I'm guessing I can't be the only one with this problem, but I'd rather get an external fan controller than have to send it back if this is a problem unique to mine.

B.

 

[charles488]

Hardware build.
GIGABYTE GA-P35-DQ6 with E6850
PNY VERTO GEFORCE 8800 GTS 640MB
LITE-ON LH-20A1L-06 20X SUPERALLWRITE SATA+LIGHTSCRIBE
SEAGATE 400GB ST3400633AS SATA300 7200RPM 16MB
OCZ OCZ850GXSSLI GAME XTREME ATX 12V V2.2 / EPS 12V 850W nVIDIA SLI CERTIFIED
CRUCIAL BALLISTIX TRACER BL2KIT12864AL1065 2GB KIT (1GB x 2) MATCH PAIR PC28500 1066MHZ 5-5-5-15 240-PIN (Have 4 gig of match pair installed)
ANTEC NINE HUNDRED (BLACK) ATX TOWER CASE NO POWER SUPPLY 3x5.25" 6x3.5"(hidden) 6x5.25"(hidden) W/WINDOWED SIDE PANEL, FRONT I/O CONNECTORS & 120mm CASE FAN x 3
EXTRA 120mm FAN(BLUE LED) (This case also has a 200mm fan at the top,note psu fit in the bottom of this case and works well.
http://www.antec.com/us/productDetails.php?ProdID=15900
Also have updated the bios to F5L 2007/07/24 an running xp home


MY fan always runs and had no problems from this board at all ,you can set the fan to manual in the bios and the board has no sound so have have to have spearkers on to hear the beep. I get all my parts from MWAVE and have had great luck with them. I do not use any of there 3rd party software like easytune I find most of this stuff will cause problems. I do everything in the bios.

 

[mylittlepony]

I've put together some observations on cooling a system with the P35-DS3R with a Coolermaster Centurion 5 case.

Other relevant components:
eVGA 8800 GTS 320MB (overclocked version)
Conroe E6750 with stock Intel cooling
Western Digital WD5000AAKS SATA2 drive

My system isn't overclocked, but the BIOS feature (CIA2) that dynamically boosts the CPU under load is enabled, so running ORTHOS (and presumably a game) will boost the clock to little over 3GHz.

Baseline idle (throttled down via SpeedStep to 2 Ghz) temp1 on Speedfan was about 51C (using the upgraded case fan mentioned in #1); cores were around 30-31C. I thought it would be nice to try to bring down temp1 a bit, so I tried a few things.

1) Replaced Coolermaster's stock case exhaust fan with one with a better CFM rating. This actually made a difference; lowered temp1 by a few degrees.

2) I bought a PCI slot fan with two fans. Unfortunately, this particular model only blew upwards, so I didn't want to put that right under my 8800GTS (which is blowing downwards). I tried in the top PCI slot. Here, it's almost touching the big heat sink on the middle of the board and blowing upwards toward the CPU. This was bad; it actually increased the CPU temps and Temp1 by a few degrees (I'm guessing it was interupting the airflow pulling heat off the CPU and out of the case; the Centurion cases have the nice feature of having a internal cone that helps direct heat away from the CPU out a grill on the side of the case).

3) Bought a different PCI slot fan (AOC FC-2000-B); this was the single fan unit that blows out the back of the system. First I tried it under the 8800 GTS, thinking it would help pull some of that heat out. Instead, it raised the Temp1 by almost 6 degrees! Then, I moved it to the top slot, again almost touching the MB's big heat sink. This didn't help either, instead raised temp1 by about 2-3 degrees at idle.

Conclusion; in my particular setup, any sort of slot fan seem to be useless. It appears that the only way I'd get case temps down would be to put an aftermarket setup on the CPU (which sounds like it can be a huge pain in the butt with many of those pieces). I suppose the most important temps are the Core temps; these stay within satisfactory ranges under load (they don't go over 52C on ORTHOS).

 

[mylittlepony]

Weird thing....I removed slot fan described above (in the highest slow, right under the board heat sink).

After rebooting, the idle temp is still 57C (higher than my previously recorded baseline).

That temp1 reading diff must be related to something else. Since I took that baseline, I did upgrade to the latest BIOS (F5E beta), and of course I had to redo my BIOS settings....either there's something about the new BIOS that makes that sensor hotter, or I didn't do the exact same settings.

I'll email Gigabyte and see if I can find some info about where the sensor locations are.

 

[Toti]

Hi bartmannz

I got the same mobo as you.
Never had this issue like you and I am useing F4 bios.

Specs
P35-DS4
E6600 @3150mhz Voltage 1.44 FSP 350 Ratio 9.0
Sparkle 8800GTX
MDT memory 2 x 1Gb 800MHZ
@ 875 MHZ 2.10 Voltage
SB X-Fi soundcard
PSU:Thermaltake 650 watts
Case: Antec180

 

[Gsai2912]

Anyone know how I go about accessing the second bios on a p35 mobo? Let's say I flashed a bad bios on the first one, but the second one still has a good one. How do I go about making the second bios overwrite the first?

 

[charles488]

What Bios are you using, Maybe this should help. Note the pdf file How to enter the duel bios utility
http://www.gigabyte.us/FileLis..._04_bios_explained.htm

 

[Gsai2912]

Thanks for that, was what I was looking for.

 

[Keystone63]

Kougar, I have the P35C-DS3R.... But never got it going twice. Very unusual problem that I have a 470w power supply, 1GiGof the correct memory, A dual core CPU, fan is on tight. I get NO POWER at all..... I am ruling out the power supply and cpu because I have put them back on my old board and it works. Using a new GeForce 8400GS video card. What do you think the problem could be with this motherboard????

 

[Kougar]

Made sure the 4pin AUX is plugged in? Could try unplugging the PSU, removing the CMOS battery, then letting it sit for 5 minutes trick. Your RAM might require to high a voltage to start properly at 1.8v, so it other words it can be almost anything Keystone. I would also suggest you manually short the power on pins to try starting it, I've seen wrong hookups on the pins before cause that too.

Bartmanz, try specifically setting your smartfan settings in your BIOS. Don't use the PWM setting unless it is a PWM capable 4pin fan. You should try the voltage setting and the legacy setting and see if either makes a difference with your issue.

 

[Keystone63]

Will try those this afternoon when I get in from work Kougar. Thank You for the support very much.

 

[jhan1]

Originally posted by: mylittlepony
I've put together some observations on cooling a system with the P35-DS3R with a Coolermaster Centurion 5 case.

Other relevant components:
eVGA 8800 GTS 320MB (overclocked version)
Conroe E6750 with stock Intel cooling
Western Digital WD5000AAKS SATA2 drive

My system isn't overclocked, but the BIOS feature (CIA2) that dynamically boosts the CPU under load is enabled, so running ORTHOS (and presumably a game) will boost the clock to little over 3GHz.

Baseline idle (throttled down via SpeedStep to 2 Ghz) temp1 on Speedfan was about 51C (using the upgraded case fan mentioned in #1); cores were around 30-31C. I thought it would be nice to try to bring down temp1 a bit, so I tried a few things.

1) Replaced Coolermaster's stock case exhaust fan with one with a better CFM rating. This actually made a difference; lowered temp1 by a few degrees.

2) I bought a PCI slot fan with two fans. Unfortunately, this particular model only blew upwards, so I didn't want to put that right under my 8800GTS (which is blowing downwards). I tried in the top PCI slot. Here, it's almost touching the big heat sink on the middle of the board and blowing upwards toward the CPU. This was bad; it actually increased the CPU temps and Temp1 by a few degrees (I'm guessing it was interupting the airflow pulling heat off the CPU and out of the case; the Centurion cases have the nice feature of having a internal cone that helps direct heat away from the CPU out a grill on the side of the case).

3) Bought a different PCI slot fan (AOC FC-2000-B); this was the single fan unit that blows out the back of the system. First I tried it under the 8800 GTS, thinking it would help pull some of that heat out. Instead, it raised the Temp1 by almost 6 degrees! Then, I moved it to the top slot, again almost touching the MB's big heat sink. This didn't help either, instead raised temp1 by about 2-3 degrees at idle.

Conclusion; in my particular setup, any sort of slot fan seem to be useless. It appears that the only way I'd get case temps down would be to put an aftermarket setup on the CPU (which sounds like it can be a huge pain in the butt with many of those pieces). I suppose the most important temps are the Core temps; these stay within satisfactory ranges under load (they don't go over 52C on ORTHOS).

Hey mylittlepony,
I probably have the same 2 fan pci slot cooler as you. I think it is a vantec that i got from newegg about a year ago. I mounted it 3 slots below my 8800gtx card and it keeps my temp1 reading at 40c idle and maybe 43c load tops. My temp1 was around 50c.

It seems to keep my card cooler by a couple degrees even if it does blow onto the 8800's fan. My case is a coolermaster 830 evolution so maybe that is the difference.

 

[qwertyaas]

Does anyone know what Speedfan sensor is used to find the case Ambient temperature (if there is one).

Temp1 is NB I presume - That is low 40's for me.
Temp2 is what I'm not sure about - It idles at 18-22c. I assume this is considered Ambient since it is pretty close to my room temperature.

 

[mylittlepony]

Originally posted by: jhan1
[Hey mylittlepony,
I probably have the same 2 fan pci slot cooler as you. I think it is a vantec that i got from newegg about a year ago. I mounted it 3 slots below my 8800gtx card and it keeps my temp1 reading at 40c idle and maybe 43c load tops. My temp1 was around 50c.

It seems to keep my card cooler by a couple degrees even if it does blow onto the 8800's fan. My case is a coolermaster 830 evolution so maybe that is the difference.

Wow, that is a nice case, probably cools somewhat better than mine. One other factor may be that your board has the nicer copper cooling conduits, whereas mine (the DS3R) just has a big heatsink in the middle.

I'm somewhat limited in where I can put a slot fan. Here's my layout from the top down:

#PCI-Ex1 (empty)
#PCI-Ex16: eVGA 8800 GTS
#PCI-Ex1: (covered by 8800 GTS)
#PCI-Ex1: (empty)
#PCI: (empty)
#PCI: (small Firewire card)
#PCI: SoundBlaster X-FI Platinum

It would've been nice to have built-in IEEE1394 and eliminate the need for the card, but the price diff between the DS3R and DQ6 seemed hard to justify knowing that I'd only be using a single video card.

 

[EdibleTarget]

Hey guys, two problems.

I put together a Q6600 + GA-P35-DS3P system about 2 weeks ago. It had been relatively painless until vista put the machine to sleep, and the computer wouldnt come back from sleep. I then proceeded to shut down the computer and start it up again. The computer would not boot, there was no display on the monitor, and I would hear a clicking noise that would seem to come from the hard drive. To solve this problem I figured out I could unplug the PSU from the power strip, wait 5 seconds, then plug it back in again. The computer would then start up fine. I have now noticed that this seems to happen fairly often, as it happens when my computer is plugged in for awhile and then cold started, but can also happen when it crashes and I try to boot it back up.

I have 2GB of Corsair RAM, and I was thinking of making sure that all those voltages are set to 2.1V like mentioned earlier in this thread, maybe also checking a few other settings mentioned here. Thats when I opened up CPU-Z and noticed my other problem. CPU-Z said that there are only 2 cores detected, although it recognizes that the CPU is a Core 2 Quad Q6600.

Is there a way to solve both of these? Or am I looking at an RMA?

Other specs:
620W Watt Corsair PSU
8800GTS 640MB
WD 400GB SATA HDD
WD 320GB IDE HDD as secondary
Audigy 2 Platinum
Windows Vista Ultimate 64 bit

edit: Well I tried increasing the voltage on the memory, that didnt work.

 

[CrazyGamer]

Official GA-P35-DS3R F5 (final) bios is out.

GA-P35-DS3R Bios Page

 

[mylittlepony]

Originally posted by: CrazyGamer
Official GA-P35-DS3R F5 (final) bios is out.

GA-P35-DS3R Bios Page

I wonder if it's any different than the beta? It would be nice if they posted more detailed release notes.

 

[MRGOOCH]

Does anyone know what Bios number has been shipping with the current boards?

 

[Eeyore69]

MRGOOCH,

The GA-P35-DS3R I received from Newegg about a week ago has an F4 BIOS.

Eeyore

 

[CrazyGamer]

Originally posted by: MRGOOCH
Does anyone know what Bios number has been shipping with the current boards?

My GA-P35-DS3R from ChiefValue was rev 1.1 with F4 bios.