gonna install brakes my self....

[ballmode]

Don't breathe in the dust. You will save alot of money changing it yourself. Enjoy!

 

[Gibson486]

I am psyched now. I love fixing things. I am gonna install them on Saturday.

I was doing research on pads and I found that pepboys actualy keeps the manufacture's part number on some products, even though they are under pepboys store brand. The low end pads seem to be raybestosr serice pads and cost 29.99, the middle line part number is a direct match with raybestos professional grade pad (step above service grade) and cost 39.99, while their top of the line part number is a direct match to Satisfied, which cost $99 at tire rack, but it's 49.99 at pepboys (under their store name). Hmmm....I just picked basic $35 pads at carquest, which have a raybestos logo on them, but I guess I may return them to get the the 39.99 ones at pepboys.

 

[SniperWulf]

Funny you should mention this, I just did rotors and pads on one of my cars this weekend. Went with Hawk Ceramic pads and Meyle rotors all the way around.

 

[Gibson486]

OK....I was doing some reading and lots of people are saying to just get new rotors....Maybe it's b/c I was in a forum full of racer wannabees....

I called NTB...they want to turn then for $30 each....geesh...for $20 more, i can get a new set. Can I trust the people at autozone or pepboys to do it right?

 

[Gibson486]

It took me a while to get the wheels off. It was crazy, I never got into this issue when changing flats....the wrench just wouldn't move. It eventually took 2 guys to do it. 1 person standing on the wrench, the other hammering upwards (Thank You to my kind neighbor).

After I finally removed the it wheel, I came to an amazing conclusion. I still had brake pad left. The pad had not even gone past the indication line (if that is what it is for). I guess the dealership was looking for work, because he said i had almost no pad left and that it was "critical" to get my pads changed. I guess he though, "well....he has almost 50K, that is enough to get him to change the pad".

I start to try to remove the caliper so i could check the other pad (behind the rotor) to see if that pad may be worn. No go...why? My socket wrench broke. I guess this is what I get for not owning quality tools. I used this socket wrench that came with a set. It was a "get what you pay for" moment. Not too much of a loss though, I bought it years ago.

Lesson learned:

1. Buy GOOD tools, not the cheap made in china crap that cost $15 for a whole set.

2. The obvious....some mechanics are just dishonest.

3. Wear gloves

4. Cross Wrenches (4 way wrench) are a must.

5. You can check brakes without removing the wheel on my car (big "doh!" moment for me).

6. Turning rotors is expensive. I called aroun...every place wants $30 a rotor. Geesh, for $20 more, I can buy new rotors. Pepbiys will do it for $15, but they are not that close. Sears will not answer their phone.

 

[boomerang]

It was far from a wasted day. You learned lots of good stuff. :thumbsup:

 

[halik]

Is this really a full page write up on how to remove your wheels ?

 

[JulesMaximus]

Originally posted by: Gibson486
well....I am kind of short on cash now....$300 for front brakes seems killer to me now.... so....I guess I have no choice but to do them myself and save atleast $150 (learning experience, i guess). I have a couple of guides on how to do it, but what are good pads and rotors to buy? I went to tire rack and was gonna get ATEpremiumOne pads with Centric rotors (the cheapest ones). Is there really a difference at all? If I go to autozone, would i essentially be getting the same thing?

car is 07 mazda3 hatch

*update:

It took me a while to get the wheels off. It was crazy, I never got into this issue when changing flats....the wrench just wouldn't move. It eventually took 2 guys to do it. 1 person standing on the wrench, the other hammering upwards (Thank You to my kind neighbor).

After I finally removed the it wheel, I came to an amazing conclusion. I still had brake pad left. The pad had not even gone past the indication line (if that is what it is for). I guess the dealership was looking for work, because he said i had almost no pad left and that it was "critical" to get my pads changed. I guess he though, "well....he has almost 50K, that is enough to get him to change the pad".

I start to try to remove the caliper so i could check the other pad (behind the rotor) to see if that pad may be worn. No go...why? My socket wrench broke. I guess this is what I get for not owning quality tools. I used this socket wrench that came with a set. It was a "get what you pay for" moment. Not too much of a loss though, I bought it years ago.

Lesson learned:

1. Buy GOOD tools, not the cheap made in china crap that cost $15 for a whole set.

2. The obvious....some mechanics are just dishonest.

3. Wear gloves

4. Cross Wrenches (4 way wrench) are a must.

5. You can check brakes without removing the wheel on my car (big "doh!" moment for me).

6. Turning rotors is expensive. I called aroun...every place wants $30 a rotor. Geesh, for $20 more, I can buy new rotors. Pepbiys will do it for $15, but they are not that close. Sears will not answer their phone.

And you'll still have to turn them.

 

[JulesMaximus]

Originally posted by: blipblop
How many miles do you have on that car? Quite a bit I suppose?

Also a little bit off topic... how do I know when I need new rotors? I have 2005 vehicle I bought new with 70k miles and I only have changed brake pads.

Pick up a service manual, the minimum thickness will be listed in there. Of course, you'll need a dial gauge to measure the thickness of the rotor. Rotors should be turned when pads are replaced and measurements taken after turning.

You can get away without turning rotors if the rotor surface is smooth and you have no brake pulsation when you do the brake job but I think it's better to turn the rotors and let the pads and rotors bed in together.

 

[brblx]

if there's no pulsation (rotor runout) then some would argue a good used surface is actually better than a new rotor, so far as noise or vibration is concerned. some manufacturers simply do not recommend turning rotors, it's reuse or replace.

also whoever said you have to remove the master cyl cap to compress the caliper pistons is incorrect. you are not fighting air pressure, the reservoir is vented. that's what that rubber diaphragm you often see under the cap is for. if it's overly full, you'll even get brake fluid coming out.

 

[helpme]

Originally posted by: brblx
if there's no pulsation (rotor runout) then some would argue a good used surface is actually better than a new rotor, so far as noise or vibration is concerned. some manufacturers simply do not recommend turning rotors, it's reuse or replace.

If you are switching brake pad types/mfgs, you may have to start with a clean rotor (turned or new) for best performance. When you go to bed in the brakes, its eaiser to transfer a film onto a clean rotor, rather than trying to wear away the old layer with the new pads.

 

[AdamK47]

I changed all of the pads and rotors on my wifes Monte Carlo SS last week. Took about two hours. 30 minutes of that was going back to Autozone after I realised I only had the front pads and not the rears.

 

[Gibson486]

Originally posted by: JulesMaximus

Originally posted by: Gibson486
well....I am kind of short on cash now....$300 for front brakes seems killer to me now.... so....I guess I have no choice but to do them myself and save atleast $150 (learning experience, i guess). I have a couple of guides on how to do it, but what are good pads and rotors to buy? I went to tire rack and was gonna get ATEpremiumOne pads with Centric rotors (the cheapest ones). Is there really a difference at all? If I go to autozone, would i essentially be getting the same thing?

car is 07 mazda3 hatch

*update:

It took me a while to get the wheels off. It was crazy, I never got into this issue when changing flats....the wrench just wouldn't move. It eventually took 2 guys to do it. 1 person standing on the wrench, the other hammering upwards (Thank You to my kind neighbor).

After I finally removed the it wheel, I came to an amazing conclusion. I still had brake pad left. The pad had not even gone past the indication line (if that is what it is for). I guess the dealership was looking for work, because he said i had almost no pad left and that it was "critical" to get my pads changed. I guess he though, "well....he has almost 50K, that is enough to get him to change the pad".

I start to try to remove the caliper so i could check the other pad (behind the rotor) to see if that pad may be worn. No go...why? My socket wrench broke. I guess this is what I get for not owning quality tools. I used this socket wrench that came with a set. It was a "get what you pay for" moment. Not too much of a loss though, I bought it years ago.

Lesson learned:

1. Buy GOOD tools, not the cheap made in china crap that cost $15 for a whole set.

2. The obvious....some mechanics are just dishonest.

3. Wear gloves

4. Cross Wrenches (4 way wrench) are a must.

5. You can check brakes without removing the wheel on my car (big "doh!" moment for me).

6. Turning rotors is expensive. I called aroun...every place wants $30 a rotor. Geesh, for $20 more, I can buy new rotors. Pepbiys will do it for $15, but they are not that close. Sears will not answer their phone.

And you'll still have to turn them.

Don't some rotors advertise not needing to be turned? Why doesn't the manufacture just turn them?

 

[Gibson486]

Originally posted by: AdamK47
I changed all of the pads and rotors on my wifes Monte Carlo SS last week. Took about two hours. 30 minutes of that was going back to Autozone after I realised I only had the front pads and not the rears.

well, i was planning on turning them, but some of the places said it takes an hour to do....that is a time killer right there.....I'd thinkit be a 15 minute job, but I never turned a rotor before, so i do not know.

 

[imported_Imp]

Makes me glad I have a mechanic in the family with a shitload of quality tools and 30 years experience. So he can teach me of course.

 

[AdamK47]

Originally posted by: Gibson486

Originally posted by: AdamK47
I changed all of the pads and rotors on my wifes Monte Carlo SS last week. Took about two hours. 30 minutes of that was going back to Autozone after I realised I only had the front pads and not the rears.

well, i was planning on turning them, but some of the places said it takes an hour to do....that is a time killer right there.....I'd thinkit be a 15 minute job, but I never turned a rotor before, so i do not know.

My wife warped the hell out of the originals, so I replaced them.

 

[alkemyst]

Originally posted by: JulesMaximus

Originally posted by: Gibson486
well....I am kind of short on cash now....$300 for front brakes seems killer to me now.... so....I guess I have no choice but to do them myself and save atleast $150 (learning experience, i guess). I have a couple of guides on how to do it, but what are good pads and rotors to buy? I went to tire rack and was gonna get ATEpremiumOne pads with Centric rotors (the cheapest ones). Is there really a difference at all? If I go to autozone, would i essentially be getting the same thing?

car is 07 mazda3 hatch

*update:

It took me a while to get the wheels off. It was crazy, I never got into this issue when changing flats....the wrench just wouldn't move. It eventually took 2 guys to do it. 1 person standing on the wrench, the other hammering upwards (Thank You to my kind neighbor).

After I finally removed the it wheel, I came to an amazing conclusion. I still had brake pad left. The pad had not even gone past the indication line (if that is what it is for). I guess the dealership was looking for work, because he said i had almost no pad left and that it was "critical" to get my pads changed. I guess he though, "well....he has almost 50K, that is enough to get him to change the pad".

I start to try to remove the caliper so i could check the other pad (behind the rotor) to see if that pad may be worn. No go...why? My socket wrench broke. I guess this is what I get for not owning quality tools. I used this socket wrench that came with a set. It was a "get what you pay for" moment. Not too much of a loss though, I bought it years ago.

Lesson learned:

1. Buy GOOD tools, not the cheap made in china crap that cost $15 for a whole set.

2. The obvious....some mechanics are just dishonest.

3. Wear gloves

4. Cross Wrenches (4 way wrench) are a must.

5. You can check brakes without removing the wheel on my car (big "doh!" moment for me).

6. Turning rotors is expensive. I called aroun...every place wants $30 a rotor. Geesh, for $20 more, I can buy new rotors. Pepbiys will do it for $15, but they are not that close. Sears will not answer their phone.

And you'll still have to turn them.

I don't know of any major brand that requires turning when new. Maybe 30 years ago or more.

 

[AMCRambler]

Most times there's just not enough metal left on the rotors to get them turned anyway. Every time I've taken rotors in to be turned, they put a gauge on them and turning them would take them below minimum thickness. I just changed the pads on my GTO at 27,000 miles, pulled the rotors and took them in to be turned figuring they HAD to have plenty of metal left on there. They measured them and no go. I think the whole minimum thickness measurement is BS so they can sell more rotors, but either way the auto parts places around here won't cut them if they're close. I just bolted them back on. They work fine. There's no vibration and the car stops fine. Friggin' rip off artists.

 

[Riverhound777]

Still on stock pads with my 06 Mazda 3s at 57k miles. Plenty of pad left.

 

[Audiotherapy]

for getting the wheel off: its alot ezier if you have the car on the wheels, loosen it by fitting a pipe over your OEM wheel wrench or get a socket with a breaker bar. the breaker bar comes in handy when getting the caliper bolt loose too. make sure you torque your lug nuts to 80ft/lbs or the manf. spec.

i got a question for the ppl that has done their own brake job, my new pad is rubbing against my new rotors after the install, theres alot of friction so the wheel takes a bit of force to turn, is this normal? will it just seat it self properly during the bedding process?

 

[alkemyst]

Originally posted by: AMCRambler
Most times there's just not enough metal left on the rotors to get them turned anyway. Every time I've taken rotors in to be turned, they put a gauge on them and turning them would take them below minimum thickness. I just changed the pads on my GTO at 27,000 miles, pulled the rotors and took them in to be turned figuring they HAD to have plenty of metal left on there. They measured them and no go. I think the whole minimum thickness measurement is BS so they can sell more rotors, but either way the auto parts places around here won't cut them if they're close. I just bolted them back on. They work fine. There's no vibration and the car stops fine. Friggin' rip off artists.

specs are real...however; I'd suggest going to a machine shop rather than auto parts store for turning rotors.

If you didn't buy your GTO new it's possible the previous owner already had them turned due to warping.

 

[Gillbot]

Originally posted by: audiotherapy
for getting the wheel off: its alot ezier if you have the car on the wheels, loosen it by fitting a pipe over your OEM wheel wrench or get a socket with a breaker bar. the breaker bar comes in handy when getting the caliper bolt loose too. make sure you torque your lug nuts to 80ft/lbs or the manf. spec.

i got a question for the ppl that has done their own brake job, my new pad is rubbing against my new rotors after the install, theres alot of friction so the wheel takes a bit of force to turn, is this normal? will it just seat it self properly during the bedding process?

You should use a clamp to force the piston back into the cyl before re-mounting the pads and caliper.

 

[randomlinh]

how do you check your brakes w/o taking the wheel off? I can't get any clear visibility on the inner pad.

and a breaker bar is a must.

and with our cars, just get a freaking brake kit to clamp the pistons. You can clamp+needle nose twist it, but it's just sooo much easier w/ an actually tool.

 

[exdeath]

What size socket wrench were you using on the caliper bolts when it broke? 1/2"?

And just curious, what prompted you to look into your brakes? Are they making noise or having problems, or was it only because someone said they needed to be done?

 

[alkemyst]

Originally posted by: randomlinh
how do you check your brakes w/o taking the wheel off? I can't get any clear visibility on the inner pad.

and a breaker bar is a must.

and with our cars, just get a freaking brake kit to clamp the pistons. You can clamp+needle nose twist it, but it's just sooo much easier w/ an actually tool.

Depends on wheel.