gonna install brakes my self....

Gibson486

Lifer
Aug 9, 2000
18,378
1
0
well....I am kind of short on cash now....$300 for front brakes seems killer to me now.... so....I guess I have no choice but to do them myself and save atleast $150 (learning experience, i guess). I have a couple of guides on how to do it, but what are good pads and rotors to buy? I went to tire rack and was gonna get ATEpremiumOne pads with Centric rotors (the cheapest ones). Is there really a difference at all? If I go to autozone, would i essentially be getting the same thing?

car is 07 mazda3 hatch

*update:

It took me a while to get the wheels off. It was crazy, I never got into this issue when changing flats....the wrench just wouldn't move. It eventually took 2 guys to do it. 1 person standing on the wrench, the other hammering upwards (Thank You to my kind neighbor).

After I finally removed the it wheel, I came to an amazing conclusion. I still had brake pad left. The pad had not even gone past the indication line (if that is what it is for). I guess the dealership was looking for work, because he said i had almost no pad left and that it was "critical" to get my pads changed. I guess he though, "well....he has almost 50K, that is enough to get him to change the pad".

I start to try to remove the caliper so i could check the other pad (behind the rotor) to see if that pad may be worn. No go...why? My socket wrench broke. I guess this is what I get for not owning quality tools. I used this socket wrench that came with a set. It was a "get what you pay for" moment. Not too much of a loss though, I bought it years ago.

Lesson learned:

1. Buy GOOD tools, not the cheap made in china crap that cost $15 for a whole set.

2. The obvious....some mechanics are just dishonest.

3. Wear gloves

4. Cross Wrenches (4 way wrench) are a must.

5. You can check brakes without removing the wheel on my car (big "doh!" moment for me).

6. Turning rotors is expensive. I called aroun...every place wants $30 a rotor. Geesh, for $20 more, I can buy new rotors. Pepbiys will do it for $15, but they are not that close. Sears will not answer their phone.
 

helpme

Diamond Member
Feb 6, 2000
3,090
0
0
Autozone (duralast) rotors and pads will be just fine if you aren't picky. The rotors are a pretty good deal usually. I actually use the duralast rotors for track use... good deal for the price/life.
 

Audiotherapy

Senior member
Apr 21, 2004
471
0
0
i got good prices on a set of Hawk HPS for my g35 coupe front on amazon ~$56, and a set of brembo front rotors for my miata ~$30 each. if you can wait, just buy it on amazon or something...

being that its a 07 newish car, unless you see alot excessive wear on your rotors, you can just sand the glaze of your old rotor and reuse it.
 

Vetterin

Senior member
Aug 31, 2004
973
0
71
Originally posted by: helpme
Autozone (duralast) rotors and pads will be just fine if you aren't picky. The rotors are a pretty good deal usually. I actually use the duralast rotors for track use... good deal for the price/life.

+1. Duralast is fine for everyday use but are you sure you even need to replace the rotors?
You might just be able to get by with new pads.
 

Ronstang

Lifer
Jul 8, 2000
12,493
18
81
Originally posted by: Vetterin
Originally posted by: helpme
Autozone (duralast) rotors and pads will be just fine if you aren't picky. The rotors are a pretty good deal usually. I actually use the duralast rotors for track use... good deal for the price/life.

+1. Duralast is fine for everyday use but are you sure you even need to replace the rotors?
You might just be able to get by with new pads.

Yeah, the car is an '07 so I doubt you need to replace the rotors. Take them to the auto parts store and have them checked. They will turn them for you if they are still within specification. It will cost you about $20. The pads will be anywhere from $25-80 depending upon the quality level you choose. I suggest since you are doing the job yourself and saving so much money you buy the best pads you can get, you will not be sorry.
 

blipblop

Senior member
Jun 23, 2004
639
0
76
How many miles do you have on that car? Quite a bit I suppose?

Also a little bit off topic... how do I know when I need new rotors? I have 2005 vehicle I bought new with 70k miles and I only have changed brake pads.
 

AdamK47

Lifer
Oct 9, 1999
15,318
2,924
126
Make sure you get a tool to compress the calipers. It's very hard to do with your thumbs.
 

bruceb

Diamond Member
Aug 20, 2004
8,874
111
106
Brembo rotors are good and are competively priced, if you need them (probably not). Be sure and pick up some brake lubricant for the caliper slide pins and be sure to clean those pins throughly before you lube them. On some cars, the caliper is held with normal Hex Head bolts. Some cars use an Allen Key Head bolt and some, like GM use a Torx Head Bolt. So be sure you have the correct type of tools. And to compressing the piston, just leave one old brake pad in the caliper, use a Large C Clamp with a small piece of wood behind the caliper so as to to damage anything. Turn clamp to push in the piston.
 

alkemyst

No Lifer
Feb 13, 2001
83,967
19
81
i haven't heard much about ATE pads...why are you choosing them? What do you want out of a pad though, that's the key? Most would be happiest with ceramics.

I run Hawk HPS on my Skyline R33 brake setup. ATE Super blue fluid.

my rotors up front are stock skyline and the rears by Brembo (plain jane blanks).

With brakes designed for a car 1000 lbs heavier than mine to stop quickly...I can really stop well.

Rockauto.com is excellent.

 

alkemyst

No Lifer
Feb 13, 2001
83,967
19
81
Originally posted by: blipblop
How many miles do you have on that car? Quite a bit I suppose?

Also a little bit off topic... how do I know when I need new rotors? I have 2005 vehicle I bought new with 70k miles and I only have changed brake pads.

you'd need a caliper and know what the out of spec measurement is.
 

alkemyst

No Lifer
Feb 13, 2001
83,967
19
81
Originally posted by: bruceb
Brembo rotors are good and are competively priced, if you need them (probably not). Be sure and pick up some brake lubricant for the caliper slide pins and be sure to clean those pins throughly before you lube them. On some cars, the caliper is held with normal Hex Head bolts. Some cars use an Allen Key Head bolt and some, like GM use a Torx Head Bolt. So be sure you have the correct type of tools. And to compressing the piston, just leave one old brake pad in the caliper, use a Large C Clamp with a small piece of wood behind the caliper so as to to damage anything. Turn clamp to push in the piston.

if the brake fluid reservoir cap is on any caliper is going to be hard to compress.

With my brake jobs I have never needed more than hand strength to compress them enough.
 

blipblop

Senior member
Jun 23, 2004
639
0
76
Originally posted by: alkemyst
Originally posted by: blipblop
How many miles do you have on that car? Quite a bit I suppose?

Also a little bit off topic... how do I know when I need new rotors? I have 2005 vehicle I bought new with 70k miles and I only have changed brake pads.

you'd need a caliper and know what the out of spec measurement is.

Thanks a lot!
 

bruceb

Diamond Member
Aug 20, 2004
8,874
111
106
Not necessarily as the fluid level goes down in the reservoir when the brake pads wear low. As to twisting in the caliper piston, that usually applies only to rear disc brakes as they usually have the parking brake on them, sometimes lever actuated. Hence the need for screw operated pistons. Not normally found on the fronts (never seen them yet on the front brakes, but they may exist)
 

alkemyst

No Lifer
Feb 13, 2001
83,967
19
81
Originally posted by: blipblop
Originally posted by: alkemyst
Originally posted by: blipblop
How many miles do you have on that car? Quite a bit I suppose?

Also a little bit off topic... how do I know when I need new rotors? I have 2005 vehicle I bought new with 70k miles and I only have changed brake pads.

you'd need a caliper and know what the out of spec measurement is.

Thanks a lot!

the caliper I mentioned is not the brake caliper just in case you didn't realize.

this:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caliper

 

alkemyst

No Lifer
Feb 13, 2001
83,967
19
81
Originally posted by: bruceb
Not necessarily as the fluid level goes down in the reservoir when the brake pads wear low. As to twisting in the caliper piston, that usually applies only to rear disc brakes as they usually have the parking brake on them, sometimes lever actuated. Hence the need for screw operated pistons. Not normally found on the fronts (never seen them yet on the front brakes, but they may exist)

there is still air then to compress. Removing the master cylinder cap is key to make it easy.

right to your second point, but I was not looking to cover all brake jobs; just letting the OP know of something that can cause damage if they didn't know that.

 

Gibson486

Lifer
Aug 9, 2000
18,378
1
0
Originally posted by: alkemyst
i haven't heard much about ATE pads...why are you choosing them? What do you want out of a pad though, that's the key? Most would be happiest with ceramics.

I run Hawk HPS on my Skyline R33 brake setup. ATE Super blue fluid.

my rotors up front are stock skyline and the rears by Brembo (plain jane blanks).

With brakes designed for a car 1000 lbs heavier than mine to stop quickly...I can really stop well

Rockauto.com is excellent.

No reason, just saw it and thought it would work...saw the hawk ones, but the are labeled as performace street. I do not drag race or anything, so i thought they were not a fit for me....but everyone here seems to recommend them...seems like spending money on something I do not need though. i also Satisfied, which pepboys carry, but under it's own name and it is only 49.99 for their top of the line non performance brake.
 

alkemyst

No Lifer
Feb 13, 2001
83,967
19
81
I'd pick a ceramic for day to day then...low dust, good performance for a normal car, quiet.

 

Thump553

Lifer
Jun 2, 2000
12,726
2,501
126
Originally posted by: AdamK47
Make sure you get a tool to compress the calipers. It's very hard to do with your thumbs.

Pair of C clamps and a small block of wood. $3.
 

alkemyst

No Lifer
Feb 13, 2001
83,967
19
81
I'd pick a ceramic for day to day then...low dust, good performance for a normal car, quiet.

I did some research for you...

I am not sure if thats a 2.0 or 2.3 you have. Rockauto has better pricing than autozone though on this job.

Raybestos has front rotors for $48, and rears at $26 for 'pro' grade, for 'advanced tech' it's $70 and $48. There is a rebate if you buy their pro/advanced tech pads with rotors....

http://www.rockauto.com/Images...Raybestos_RockAuto.pdf

If you spend $100 on Raybestos you get a backpack too:
http://www.rockauto.com/Images...ard_Final_RockAuto.pdf

You should replace your spindle nuts for you car and they have them at $6...

As far as pads the Raybestos basic ceramics are $26 for the fronts, the pro is $51 front/$55 rear. Bendix 'Quiet' are $43 front, $34 rear.

Take a look around rockauto.

 
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