Grow light suggestions

Denly

Golden Member
May 14, 2011
1,433
229
106
Looking for economical(cheap) grow light solutions, no it is not what you're thinking. I have a bunch of plants that I have to bring it in for the winter every year mostly herb and citrus, They starve light, they're like half dead by spring. I don't know nothing about grow light, so enlighten me.
 

krose

Senior member
Aug 1, 2004
513
15
81
When i used to start my own annuals from seed I used a couple four foot fluorescent shop lights. They make tubes with wavelengths especially for growing.
 

Mike64

Platinum Member
Apr 22, 2011
2,108
101
91
Fluorescents, especially tubes, which don't put out all that much light at any given point along their length, won't cut it for citrus, though they might be enough for relatively short herb plants (12"-18"). Light intensity drops off dramatically with distance (it's inversely proportional to the square of the distance from the source), so even if one puts the tubes within an inch of two of the topmost leaves of a "tree" that's as short as even a few feet tall, most of the plant still won't get enough light.

The best thing for citrus is really HID lighting, but that's both expensive to buy and expensive to operate, and generates a lot of heat (which isn't necessarily a bad thing during the winter, but has to be taken into consideration). I used to use a 400W HID for orchids, but haven't put it back up since I moved a few years ago, and haven't paid much attention to the rapid development of higher-powered LEDs over the past few years. But from what I have seen, that's probably the way to go, particularly for something less critical like just overwintering plants that aren't actively growing. Prices for basic fixtures are really pretty low, and their light output is at least an order of magnitude higher per Watt than the most efficient incandescent lamps. (And more than even high efficiency fluorescents.) Something along the lines of a 40W-50W LED (or maybe a couple of 30Wers, positioned lower, and angled toward the plant from 2 sides) should give a reasonably large plant a decent amount of supplemental light, especially if it is supplemental to reasonably good natural light like from an east- or south-facing window. Shorter herb plants are easier, at least to maintain, but they should still get as close to "full sun" as possible, so basically, the more light, the better.

I only glanced briefly at the Wirecutter article (because their and their kin's articles of this sort mostly annoy the hell out of me) but (a) it seems to be about starting seedlings indoors and (b) this is really one area in particular where "talking to experts" and reading specs is no substitute for advice from people who've been doing heavy-duty "indoor gardening" with lights over a long period. Before relying even mainly on it alone, I'd spend some time looking through what are mostly older threads on GardenWeb (or whatever they're calling it these days) and, unless you're afraid of what your ISP will say, the lighting sections of MJ growing forums. You can ignore all the stuff you'll see there about photoperiods and differences between vegetative growth and flowering phases, but as far as light intensity is concerned, citrus and herbs have far more in common with Cannabis than they do with young seedlings being grown only big enough to set out in a garden as soon as the ground is warm enough...
 
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Denly

Golden Member
May 14, 2011
1,433
229
106
Thanks for the input, another problem I have is I have a few bigger one in diff area it will be hard for me to have one set of lights for all. I will scan some weeds forum and see how it go.
 

Pink Jazz

Senior member
Jan 30, 2016
228
8
81
Remember, red wavelengths are more beneficial for the flowering stage, while blue wavelengths are more beneficial for the vegetative stage. Those grow lights that contain a combination of the two produce a pink to purple light (more red = pink; more blue = purple).
 

bbhaag

Diamond Member
Jul 2, 2011
6,758
2,137
146
I agree that regular fluorescent lighting is not enough. The only exception is t-5's with individual reflectors. If I were to grow under lights though I would use HID. Just curious but what is your budget? There are some decent HID fixtures on 1000bulbs starting out at $75 and go up to $190 for the more powerful ones.

If you are really strapped for cash and want a lot of light for the minimal dollar this 400 watt wall pack can be rigged up to work nicely by removing the glass refractor.
 

Mike64

Platinum Member
Apr 22, 2011
2,108
101
91
PS: Fwiw, These are the sort of LED yard lights I was referring to earlier. I'm posting these two specifically because they have more reviews than a lot of others, but that's only worth so much. If you poke around, on Amazon and elsewhere, you'll find a lot more of the same general thing. They're probably all made in the same half-dozen or so Chinese factories (and I dare say you can get them cheaper direct from China either on Ebay or Alibaba's "consumer portal" (the name of which I forget), but as usual with this sort of thing, it's hard to get a really good sense of what they're like just by reading reviews, at least until they've been around for a while...

Ustellar 2 Pack 60W LED Flood Light, 5000K Daylight
COMPACT LED Floodlight 50W 5000K

I have no idea how durable they are, but they're pretty cheap for the amount of light they (allegedly) give off, and given the comparatively low wattage, they necessarily must produce a lot less light than a 400+W HID. (They're obviously also much cheaper to run.) I also have no idea what their output spectra are like, but for short-term overwintering, and especially as a supplement to a reasonable amount of natural light, there's really not much point in going crazy over the spectrum as long as it's not very heavily skewed in the yellow range, since chlorophyll is particularly insensitive to light at those wavelengths. (Citrus especially is very temperature-sensitive, so unless you keep your home unusually warm, those plants aren't going to do a whole lot of active growing over the Winter even with very bright light and a long (artificial) "daylength".)

I've grown all sort of plants under lights in my day, from fluorescent tubes to HID, and while I have no experience with any of these, which are relatively new on the market but if I ever get around to setting up another large growing area, I'm definitely going to give these a shot, they look very promising. The biggest issue with most plants grown indoors is light, and assuming the specs on these aren't too exaggerated, they certainly put out a lot it for their wattage.

They also make relatively high-wattage Edison-base LED floodlights that are available at box stores like Home Depot and Lowe's. They're arguably easier to put up, since they use "regular" light sockets, and have the advantage of having US-based warranties in case they die premature deaths (whereas I don't know to what extent that's true for the ones I linked above). But on the other hand, they're a lot more expensive on a per-lumen basis unless you happen to come across some being clearanced at particularly low prices...
 
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Linflas

Lifer
Jan 30, 2001
15,395
78
91
I have a key lime, a lemon, and an ornamental orange tree that I move into my garage during the winter months. They always drop a lot of leaves but come back strong once I put them back out in the spring. I was more worried about the temperature in the unheated garage but it seems to never get lower than the mid 30's in there even on the coldest days. The one advantage I have is the front of my house gets sun all day long so I think the sun coming in through the garage windows helps moderate things a bit and provide enough light for them while they are dormant.
 
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