H100 performance + asking for advice

[Nhirlathothep]

my h100 performance were not so good.
I dont use it atm and i was wondering if i can open it and find what s wrong with it

 

[BonzaiDuck]

I'd say "no," until I see here in these forums some posts by custom-water-cooling veterans explaining that they had disassembled an AiO and successfully put it back together again.

And I haven't seen any such indications. The only exception might be the Swiftech H240X which is getting a lot of attention lately. It is supposed to be "expandable," meaning that it provides the option to become "custom-water" cooling even after it was installed as an "AiO."

On the other hand, if you no longer use the H100 cooler and you accept the chances you will permanently destroy it or void any warranty on it (if not already expired) -- Who knows? Maybe you can use any parts still deemed to be "working." This is where the "custom" guys need to investigate these AiO's some more.

 

[hunkeelin]

Don't use stock fans, use a aftermarket fan. Sub it with noctua's and you will see at 5 ~10C performance. Oh and it will be quiet.

 

[aigomorla]

i have my brothers on 2 Scythe Gentle Typhoon's

of course the fans themselves cost about half the unit, but i got the AIO for space reasons and not performance.

The unit is seriously lacking air flow though the radiator.
You could also try to sandwitch the unit in fans, doing a push/pull config with cheaper fans like from Yate Loons.
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/yalo12d1hisp.html

the setup would look like this:

it would still cost you less then a single noctuna fan or a single GT fan, and would definitely net you better performance.
However the unit will get bulky.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

If expense is no object, you can get some Noctua iPPC 120's for push-pull and spend $120.

But I'm wondering whether or not the 3,000 RPM model would be sufficient just with two fans. They actually only spin up to about 2,850. I really don't hear much of anything, but I wouldn't know what the air-turbulence white-noise would sound like: I'm using one together with an AP-30. I can only say that using an iPPC fan to replace the stock 120 of my heatsink-cooler eliminated some noise. Noticeably.

The stock fan top-end was more like 2,250 RPM.

I like to think I'm very sensitive to the noise problem. Lord knows -- I've taken steps to severely restrict it. But I'm also more tolerant of the white-noise.

With a Swiftech PWM splitter, you could control a whole bunch of iPPCs to whatever noise-attenuation level floats your boat.

Less of a problem than an AP-30 -- foh shu-ah!

Pressurizing the case and forcing all the air through a Hydro H80 has been shown to improve the cooler performance by a few C. I can't see why that wouldn't work with a dual-fan AiO.

 

[wgusler]

Make sure the water block is seated, mine needed washers to make good contact. Changing the fans to Notcuas or AP-15's will help alot as they do not have the gaps on all for sides that draw air from in front of the rad instead of thru it like the corsairs.

I would change the fans to AP-15's and see what you get, you can always add two more for push pull. You should be 3-5C better with 2 AP-15"s.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

Make sure the water block is seated, mine needed washers to make good contact. Changing the fans to Notcuas or AP-15's will help alot as they do not have the gaps on all for sides that draw air from in front of the rad instead of thru it like the corsairs.

I would change the fans to AP-15's and see what you get, you can always add two more for push pull. You should be 3-5C better with 2 AP-15"s.

Nobody has made outright criticism of my own fan choices so far -- The Noctua iPPC "3,000 RPM" or the AP-30. If those are "overkill," I don't know whether they also cost me "extra." But I'm not running either of those "full-throttle" with motherboard thermal control, and I've attenuated the noise so there's nothing much except "air-turbulence."

It's interesting, though. A person would invest up-front in either heatpipes (least-cost), AiO (a little more) or custom-water-cooling (largest initial outlay). When I don't like a stock, bundled cooling fan, I don't hesitate to replace it. With those iPPC's, I think the price-per-fan is about $30.

With my second Sandy (2700K) system here, I probably spent $55 on the heatpipe cooler, and $50+ on the AP-30 and iPPC combined.

With reliable mobo-BIOS-software fan-control, I'd just as soon obtain a beefier fan(s), find my overclock settings, and then see how much in temperature I can compromise by knocking down the RPMs. I think -- with this system -- when I initially had ~70C IBT "Maximum," I gave up about 1.5C to drop the AP-30's speed to 3,500 from 4,200, and the iPPC closer to 2,300 -- down from 2,900.

 

[Corsair Joseph]

my h100 performance were not so good.
I dont use it atm and i was wondering if i can open it and find what s wrong with it

I wouldn't recommend it, that would void your warranty. H100 does have a 5 year warranty, I would take advantage of that if your cooler is still within that time frame.

Try what have been suggested above, reseat the pump and make sure that your pump is running within spec. It should be around 2200rpm.

 

[james1701]

I wouldn't recommend it, that would void your warranty. H100 does have a 5 year warranty, I would take advantage of that if your cooler is still within that time frame.

Try what have been suggested above, reseat the pump and make sure that your pump is running within spec. It should be around 2200rpm.

The new guy, nice to meet you.