Haswell Based Build - SSD, PS, Suggestions

[BigBarney]

Hey guys,

I am highly thinking of building a Haswell based PC.

My last build was before 2004.

I will be re-using the case I have, which is an Antec 1080, if I can figure out the best ways to modify it to 120mm fans all around, though I don't plan on a hi-end rig.

Most of the things I will be using it for are:
Work
Excel
Word
PPT
Programming (SQL, HTML, R, etc)


I am thinking:

my build looks like this
Western Digital WD Green WD20EZRX 2TB (NewEgg)
CORSAIR Professional Series Gold AX850 (NewEgg)
Mushkin Enhanced Redline 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 (Newegg)
Crucial M500 120GB SATA 2.5" 7mm (with 9.5mm adapter) (Newegg)
ASUS Z87-A (Newegg)
Intel Core i5 4670K 3.4GHz (MicroCenter)


I have a lot of plans to use the onboard graphics, for now, onboard sound for a long time and most everything onboard.

What size Powersupply will I need?

I wish I could just re-use my Antec TruPower 430, but I don't believe it's intelligent to find and buy the power adapters when they will probably run as much as just a new powersupply

Is there any reason why I would need to upgrade the Case?

 

[Torn Mind]

You probably don't need a 4770K for the tasks you listed. You might not need to overclock either.

You want a PSU with a 4+4 pin for maximum compatbility. Bare minimum budget PSUs you can consider include the Corsair Builder series for $30 AR and the Antec VP-450 at Amazon for ~$40.

For something a little nicer and with a longer warranty, you can get this XFX ProSeries PSU from SuperBiiz for about $60: http://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=XFX-450S&c=CJ.

Or this 550W XFX Core Edition unit from Newegg:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...D=3938566&SID=

Or this Rosewill Capstone:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006BCKDGW/?tag=pcpapi-20

 

[BigBarney]

You probably don't need a 4770K for the tasks you listed. You might not need to overclock either.

You want a PSU with a 4+4 pin for maximum compatbility. Bare minimum budget PSUs you can consider include the Corsair Builder series for $30 AR and the Antec VP-450 at Amazon for ~$40.

For something a little nicer and with a longer warranty, you can get this XFX ProSeries PSU from SuperBiiz for about $60: http://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=XFX-450S&c=CJ.

Or this 550W XFX Core Edition unit from Newegg:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...D=3938566&SID=

Or this Rosewill Capstone:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006BCKDGW/?tag=pcpapi-20

This is honestly a future-proof build. Something that I can in the future upgrade with Dual SLI for gaming, etc. I just don't need it right now.

 

[wasabiman123]

If you want to futureproof then building in a modern case might be a good idea, jump down to a Micro-ATX motherboard and stick it all in a 350D, no need for full ATX really. For a motherboard I would suggest the Gigabyte G1 Sniper m5. What's your budget?

 

[Torn Mind]

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...D=3938566&SID=

Any other 750 W unit from a quality manufacturer can also serve you well. This is just one of them, although it does have a 7 year warranty.

 

[Sleepingforest]

This is honestly a future-proof build. Something that I can in the future upgrade with Dual SLI for gaming, etc. I just don't need it right now.

Do not think this. SLI is the least money efficient way to future proof, and in fact, future proofing by buying more expensive things now is highly inefficient as well.

Just look at Titan. It costs $1000; there is now the 780, which can come overclocked at stock to perform faster at 1080p (where the VRAM doesn't matter enough to make a difference). In a year or two, Titan level performance will be worth $400-500.

Additionally, it's probably not a good idea to keep two IDE drives just for 200GB of storage. They are old, probably out of warranty, very slow, and hardly any more storage. In fact, the cost of the adapters is probably so close to the price of another 500GB drive that it's not worthwhile.

 

[BigBarney]

I can and will keep the 1080 until I upgrade and install a graphics card, which I would then be forced to upgrade the tower.

I was debating the PS i should choose.

my build looks like this
Western Digital WD Green WD20EZRX 2TB (NewEgg)
CORSAIR Professional Series Gold AX850 (NewEgg)
Mushkin Enhanced Redline 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 (Newegg)
Crucial M500 120GB SATA 2.5" 7mm (with 9.5mm adapter) (Newegg)
Intel Core i5 4670K 3.4GHz (MicroCenter)


And my budget: <900. so no $400 motherboard (maybe back when i was 15 and had my parents money to spend i would have done that, but now I have car,house,insurance,electricity,living expenses, etc to deal with)

 

[BigBarney]

Do not think this. SLI is the least money efficient way to future proof, and in fact, future proofing by buying more expensive things now is highly inefficient as well.

Just look at Titan. It costs $1000; there is now the 780, which can come overclocked at stock to perform faster at 1080p (where the VRAM doesn't matter enough to make a difference). In a year or two, Titan level performance will be worth $400-500.

Additionally, it's probably not a good idea to keep two IDE drives just for 200GB of storage. They are old, probably out of warranty, very slow, and hardly any more storage. In fact, the cost of the adapters is probably so close to the price of another 500GB drive that it's not worthwhile.

I've gone through my head, I'm not keeping them but I will need a way to transfer the 80gb of music (legal) and other odds/ends from it.

 

[Sleepingforest]

In that case, it makes sense to get a single IDE-to-SATA converter, plug a drive in, and then move the files over. Just make sure you turn the computer off between switching the drive out (it's not really meant for hot-swap).

Also, give serious thought to the folly of "futureproofing". You get the most out of your money by purchasing midrange parts often, not by going big infrequently.

 

[wasabiman123]

WD Green 100$
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16822136891
Seasonic 650w 110$ (enough for any single gpu, SLI aint worth it)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817151118
Mushkin Ram 130$
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820226382
Sniper m.5 awesome onboard sound/feature set 200$
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813128604
4670k 250$ (or cheaper if you go to Microcenter)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16819116899
Kingston Hyper X 120gb SSD, very fast, better than an msata 120$
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820239045

Total is around 910$
Enjoy

 

[BigBarney]

In that case, it makes sense to get a single IDE-to-SATA converter, plug a drive in, and then move the files over. Just make sure you turn the computer off between switching the drive out (it's not really meant for hot-swap).

Also, give serious thought to the folly of "futureproofing". You get the most out of your money by purchasing midrange parts often, not by going big infrequently.

my definition of future proofing:

making a product that can be upgraded affordably.

do you see any high end products?

the computer I am replacing, literally was first built in 2001 and lasted until 2009 with little upgrades.

In fact, by finding a working AGP card, the thing still POSTS (well not really, i didn't have a KB hooked up so it erred out there).

guess i need to also find some fans, since i stripped the computer of them a while back.

 

[Torn Mind]

Futureproofing is a matter of extending the upgrade cycle time. Nothing more, nothing less.

 

[Sleepingforest]

My apologies, I should have been more specific. Your build is almost 100% good except for a few small things. My biggest issue is the PSU. No single GPU graphics card is going to need over 500W, even with an overclocked CPU. And it is never worthwhile to go SLI/CFX over upgrading to a new generation, from a price/performance perspective.

Other than that, you are losing a bit of money by buying at launch (motherboard manufacturers are going to gouge you) and you shouldn't be getting a WD Green. They are very slow and meant for NAS use; you want a WD Blue or Seagate Barracuda, preferably a modern generation one with 1TB platters.

 

[BigBarney]

I believe I have this pretty optimized:

Intel Core i5 4670K 3.4GHz (MicroCenter)
Seagate Barracuda STBD2000101 2TB (newegg)
SeaSonic X Series X650 Gold (newegg)
Mushkin Enhanced Redline 16GB (newegg)
GIGABYTE GA-G1.Sniper M5 LGA 1150 (newegg)
Kingston HyperX 3K SH103S3/120G 2.5" 120GB(newegg)

I actually don't mind spending slightly more on a uATX and "stuffing" it in a 1080 for the time being. I can't find definitive answers, but I believe the 1080 can stand uATX form factor.

This comes to $683.47 shipped on Newegg and $200 at Microcenter (plus tax) so right at $900.

not bad, not bad...

 

[wasabiman123]

I believe I have this pretty optimized:

Intel Core i5 4670K 3.4GHz (MicroCenter)
Seagate Barracuda STBD2000101 2TB (newegg)
SeaSonic X Series X650 Gold (newegg)
Mushkin Enhanced Redline 16GB (newegg)
GIGABYTE GA-G1.Sniper M5 LGA 1150 (newegg)
Kingston HyperX 3K SH103S3/120G 2.5" 120GB(newegg)

I actually don't mind spending slightly more on a uATX and "stuffing" it in a 1080 for the time being. I can't find definitive answers, but I believe the 1080 can stand uATX form factor.

This comes to $683.47 shipped on Newegg and $200 at Microcenter (plus tax) so right at $900.

not bad, not bad...

Awesome I would recommend the 350D for when you get a case, been eyeing myself for a Haswell build maybe.

 

[LagunaX]

Keep in mind that the non K version has Virtualization Technology if you need it ( for virtual machines ) if you don't plan to overclock, and double check on the manufacturer's website if your psu is on the list of those capable of the haswell superefficient less than 1 watt sleep mode.

 

[BigBarney]

Keep in mind that the non K version has Virtualization Technology if you need it ( for virtual machines ) if you don't plan to overclock, and double check on the manufacturer's website if your psu is on the list of those capable of the haswell superefficient less than 1 watt sleep mode.

I have no real plans to do anything that would need virtualization (that I can think of)

and AT says yes: http://www.anandtech.com/show/6953/sea-sonic-and-corsair-power-supplies-certified-for-haswell

 

[mfenn]

Keep in mind that the non K version has Virtualization Technology if you need it ( for virtual machines ) if you don't plan to overclock, and double check on the manufacturer's website if your psu is on the list of those capable of the haswell superefficient less than 1 watt sleep mode.

All K-series Haswell CPUs have VT-x.

Also, no desktop Haswell CPUs support S0ix. C6/C7 are much higher states.

 

[mfenn]

I believe I have this pretty optimized:

Intel Core i5 4670K 3.4GHz (MicroCenter)
Seagate Barracuda STBD2000101 2TB (newegg)
SeaSonic X Series X650 Gold (newegg)
Mushkin Enhanced Redline 16GB (newegg)
GIGABYTE GA-G1.Sniper M5 LGA 1150 (newegg)
Kingston HyperX 3K SH103S3/120G 2.5" 120GB(newegg)

I actually don't mind spending slightly more on a uATX and "stuffing" it in a 1080 for the time being. I can't find definitive answers, but I believe the 1080 can stand uATX form factor.

This comes to $683.47 shipped on Newegg and $200 at Microcenter (plus tax) so right at $900.

not bad, not bad...

Are you physically near a MicroCenter?

 

[LagunaX]

Yeah, correction: VT-x yes, but VT-d, no.
http://ark.intel.com/compare/75610,75125,75124,75123,75122

One of the new features Haswell boasts is a deeper sleep mode, where it can stay below 1w but still have a lot of circuitry active.

Yeah this is the newer Haswell C6 C7 idle/sleep state that a lot of older DESKTOP power supplies are having problems maintaining without shutting down. Was not a problem with Sandy or Ivy, but Haswell sleeps at a lower power level.

 

[BigBarney]

Are you physically near a MicroCenter?

40 minute drive. I'm in Ann arbor

 

[BigBarney]

pulled trigger, but swapped out the Kingston SSD for a Samsung 840 Pro

 

[mfenn]

Let us know how the build goes.

 

[BigBarney]

Up and running, millions of things to update.

Have a few issues though, specifically an old HD of mine not being detected by windows.

Bios shows it, all 120gb of it. Windows doesn't.

I had it appear ONCE in windows, but it was only displaying half the space (60gb vs 120). Bios shows it as a full 120gb drive (platter went bad maybe???) but now I can no longer get it to display.

Maybe all my updates will fix it.

 

[Cerb]

Being that small, it could be old enough to be a PATA drive with a bridge integrated. Some of those don't like being run in anything but legacy/IDE mode. If you can set some of your ports to a different operational mode, you might try that. If not, just pull the data off with another computer, and let the drive go.