Heatsink Lapping for Idiots!

[Dethedrus]

I'd buy a book with that title

Seriously tough, I've half-assed my way through overclocking since when ASUS first introduced TX boards with 75mhz bus speeds

I'm either geting a shiny new Glaciator, or will go with the more establish SK6 or Swiftech MC462a. Regardless, I'm strongly leaning towards lapping the sink itself, unless it comes with a near mirror finish.

What's the proper procedure? Any newbie guides out there?

 

[HardwareAddicted]

You may find alot of info on this if you search.....

But here goes...I got a 12 x 12 flat surface (glass or in my case, marble tile from eagle)
and a pack of 800, 1000, 2000 wet/dry sandpaper.
Add one roll of duct tape.

Put one piece of tape on each side of the sandpaper to secure it to the "flat surface".

I always do this wet and rinse often to get the dust out of the paper.

Try to go in circles or figure 8s if you want to...just keep it flat.

Depending on how badly the heatsink needs to be flattened, start out w/800 until it appears even, or close.

Go to 1000 and repeat .... same with the 2000.

When you are done, you will have a nicely lapped HS.

If you are lucky enuf to get a Taisol, you will find that you can start with 2000 and be done in 10 minutes.

You will see that this has paid off for me here.

Good luck...and remember to use Arctic Silver heatsink grease.

 

[GiZzO]

Glass or marble is cool as long as its thick enough it doesn't tweak when you apply presure to it. I took two peices of glass and glued em together to ensure this.

With the heavier grit paper -600-800 and such you should have the whole base totally scratched this will pretty much guarantee a flat surface, move up till the scratches from the previous grit is gone.

Spend some time with it and do it right should come out with a mirror finish like this...
^ Im selling that VOS32 BTW

 

[Dethedrus]

Cool!

Hardware Addicted: I've got the original Artic Silver... should I bother getting AS2?

GiZzO: Sweet

 

[Nelmster]

Gizzo, that is AWESOME!

 

[bacillus]

have a look here on how to proceed!

 

[HardwareAddicted]

<< Hardware Addicted: I've got the original Artic Silver... should I bother getting AS2? >>



From all that I have read, I would say no.

I have the original also and it works great.

But if I were to get more, of course get the new stuff...

Let us all know how this goes for you...

P.S. The marble I got from the hardware store was about 1/2 inch thick.
That is why I went with it so there would be NO FLEXIN'...
Just remember to get the &quot;glass smooth&quot; stuff, not the textured stuff.

 

[McCarthy]

Marble eh? Hmm...

I can see it now, bunch of overclockers sneaking into cemetaries at night to rub their heatsinks up against headstones.

Wonder how the police would write that one up?

Gizzo - please, go show Globalwin (and others) how it's done. Very nice job. Think they prepped my FOP32 by dragging it down a sidewalk!

--Mc

 

[buffhr]

well you were asking for a guiudes so here is one http://www.blargoc.co.uk/guides/lapping/index.shtml
hope it helps

 

[MichaelD]

Second Bacillus' post. I followed this guide and my FOP32-1 turned out great. I used an 8 x 8 inch piece of 1/8 glass from Home Depot, sitting on my dining room table as a sanding surface. I started out with dry 600 and finished with wet 1000. The physical difference in the bottom of the HS is astonishing. It looks flat when you first start out, but after about five minutes with the first piece of sandpaper, you can easily see the high and low spots on the bottom of the HS.

The end result was smooth as glass. Not quite mirror-quality, but as smooth as glass. I used AS II. CPU idle temp dropped 2C. Didn't really affect stressed temp, but I still think the $10 in materials and two hours of my time was well-worth it.

 

[GiZzO]

Just out of courosity how much would you guys charge if you were to lap a heatsink, like something with a poor base surface like a Volcano II, FOP-32 or SK-6. Too i guess a mirror finish similar to my end result, or something just really smooth not reflective.

 

[Mean MrMustard]

Is lapping necessary with a new unused heatsink?

 

[CarpetMan]

Maybe not necassary,but well worth the effort involved. Some heatsinks are very rough on the surface which translates to poor heat transfer. And it's a no lose situation,even if it does not help (which it probably will)it can't hardly hurt.

 

[HardwareAddicted]

Gizzo

<< Just out of courosity how much would you guys charge if you were to lap a heatsink, like something with a poor base surface like a Volcano II, FOP-32 or SK-6. Too i guess a mirror finish similar to my end result, or something just really smooth not reflective. >>



I would say...oh... about $10 plus shipping back to them.

A good idea and anyone contacts me, I would do this.

ELP

<< Is lapping necessary with a new unused heatsink? >>



I always do this now b4 I even put it on the board, I even take off the chipset HS and do this b4 installing it as this can only be better than the stock finish.

Once you have the stuff, might as well use it.

H-A

 

[buffhr]

to GIZZO

&quot;Just out of courosity how much would you guys charge if you were to lap a heatsink, like something with a poor base surface like a Volcano II, FOP-32 or SK-6. Too i guess a mirror finish similar to my end result, or something just really smooth not reflective.&quot;

i would charge well like 5$ plus shipping back thats all cause well 5$ is about the material that i would use and thats all and i would give my time away for a cause like this i have done good moiror finishes and it tok me quite a bit of times(few hour's)since this would be for a good cause.

also gizzo the sk-6 usually has a nice flat bottom

To ELP

&quot; Is lapping necessary with a new unused heatsink?&quot;

it depends on what heatsink but as in the rreview that i pointed out i lap every sink i put in my system just for added security and the though that once it is in there that i know that the thermal transfer is optimal, since once its epoxied its almost permanent(is removable but the hassle it brings , so might as well do it right the first time hehe), some sinks like alpha and swiftech do not really need lapping unless you are an excellent lapper you will prolly make the swiftech have worst thermal tranfer hehe

 

[MrThompson]

Try this, it works. When you have the finish you want, rinse the HS with water. Take a fresh sheet of 2000 grit and use Artic Silver as the lube instead of water. When you are done lapping, rinse and air dry. Instead of leaving just aluminum and abrasive particles in the microscopic surface imperfections of the HS, you will now have some Artic Silver there too. This will improve the thermal interface and drop your temps.

 

[buffhr]

mr thompson thanx for the tip all have to try that out but hmmm me sees this as an expensive project since i lap every sink i put in my system and thats lots lol

 

[MrThompson]

If you are brave you can also lap your core with 2000 grit. Every 30 seconds check it with a 20 power loop. You just want to get the etched lettering off. If you see copper you loose. Definitely not for the faint at heart. The Artic Silver trick works here too.

 

[buffhr]

mr thompson nah copper doesnt realy mean you loose but sometimes yeah i already killed a celeron 366 while lapping the core to a full copper, but with one of my slotA 850 i had i lapped the core to a full copper finishes and it didnt die but did oc higher got it up to 1143(9x127)

 

[GiZzO]

I did my old celeron 366 to the copper and some, i had that chip for like 3 years, did 616mhz with air cooling with a FDP-32 with a 80m 20db fan slapped on it, it was a rare one. I still have that chip in my other machine. Thinking if trying to hit 600@1200mhz again

 

[buffhr]

wow nice oc gizzo also is your signature right 600@1200 your post threw me off a bit