Hey AT Handymen, give me some advice about fixing a leaky drain

[GoingUp]

Now I haven't done much plumbing unless you count replacing faucets, but that probably doesn't count. I've been working on getting a drain leak fixed for a while without much success.

The bathroom sink needed a new popup assembly so I went and bought a whole new kit. It contains the popup, new ring for the sink, gaskets and plastic tube that goes down into the u-shaped trap in the bottom of the sink drain.

Pic

My problem is, that the damned thing leaks. I think it is a problem with the parts I've bought but wanted to come on here for some advice. If you look at the pic above, the leak is occurring between the drain flange and tailpiece. It's not overflowing over the top of the drain flange, but running down between the flange and tailpiece.

This is my second set of a popup assembly. I took the first one back as it was doing the same thing. All of the washers and everything are in place, and this second set does the same damned thing. Just wondering if I am doing something wrong, of if its just because the parts I bought are junk. It's an Ace Hardware store brand parts. I'm ready to throw in the towel with this set and head back to the store to get something better.

Link to the item I bought

Your advice is appreciated.

Edit:
Pic of the problem and actual setup

 

[AMDMaddness]

plumbers putty. wrap a small bead under the chrome ring that goes into your sink from the top. Very common to leak there and thats why they sell the stuff. If your sink is old you may have to scrape clean the surfaces the gaskets mate to.

http://www.hammerzone.com/arch...s/faucet_moen84200.htm

 

[spacelord]

In my completely amateur plumbing experience.. screwing stuff on too tight can have ill effects, such as leaks and drips.

 

[iGas]

Leaks between flange and tail piece indicated that plumbing putty or 100% silicone caulk needed.

Loosen the flange nut under the sink, then squeeze a small bead of 100% silicone caulking for kitchen/sink around the flange. Re-tighten the flange nut, then wipe it with a whetted finger. Make sure that the sink is dry & clean.

Undo the tail piece/flange and wrap a small roll of plumbing putty around the underside of the flange, and then re install the flange. Make sure putty squeezes out of the flange once tighten the flange nut down.

PS. I'm no handman. I'm a plumber

 

[GoingUp]

Originally posted by: iGas

Leaks between flange and tail piece indicated that plumbing putty or 100% silicone caulk needed.

Loosen the flange nut under the sink, then squeeze a small bead of 100% silicone caulking for kitchen/sink around the flange. Then wipe it with a whetted finger. Make sure that the sink is dry & clean.

Undo the tail piece/flange and wrap a small roll of plumbing putty around the underside of the flange, and then re install the flange. Make sure putty squeezes out of the flange once tighten the flange nut down.

Thanks. I'll try that tomorrow. There is already a plastic washer on the inside that came with the kit, but I guess it's not doing its job.

Any recommendations on if I should leave in the washer or pull it out?

Edit: I also already have silicone by the flange, I will try the plumbers putty next.

 

[MikeMike]

you could be just not setting it completely flat and causing a small leak... thats easy to do with p-traps and sinks... but their idea above works... is there a small hairline crack on the flange part of the sink?

 

[GoingUp]

Originally posted by: AMDMaddness
plumbers putty. wrap a small bead under the chrome ring that goes into your sink from the top. Very common to leak there and thats why they sell the stuff. If your sink is old you may have to scrape clean the surfaces the gaskets mate to.

http://www.hammerzone.com/arch...s/faucet_moen84200.htm

Thanks for the link. That looks like everything I have done already to a "T" but I still have a leak.

Check out this Pic from the article. If you can see the grey nut connecting the metal and the grey plastic tube coming down from inside the captured nut. My leak is occurring in-between the grey plastic nut and the grey plastic tube. Should some plumbers putty or silicone on the inside of that fix the problem?

 

[iGas]

Originally posted by: Gobadgrs

Originally posted by: iGas

Leaks between flange and tail piece indicated that plumbing putty or 100% silicone caulk needed.

Loosen the flange nut under the sink, then squeeze a small bead of 100% silicone caulking for kitchen/sink around the flange. Then wipe it with a whetted finger. Make sure that the sink is dry & clean.

Undo the tail piece/flange and wrap a small roll of plumbing putty around the underside of the flange, and then re install the flange. Make sure putty squeezes out of the flange once tighten the flange nut down.

Thanks. I'll try that tomorrow. There is already a plastic washer on the inside that came with the kit, but I guess it's not doing its job.

Any recommendations on if I should leave in the washer or pull it out?

The rubber washer is for the under side, between the flange nut & sink. plumbing putty/silicone is to prevent water running down into the drain/overflow pocket when the stopper is in place.

Older lavatories & basin may have poor gasket contact, thus putty/silicone may act as a gasket to stop leaks.

Do not put putty on the rubber washer because it may degrade the gasket, thus lead to leakage with age.

 

[iGas]

Originally posted by: Gobadgrs

Originally posted by: AMDMaddness
plumbers putty. wrap a small bead under the chrome ring that goes into your sink from the top. Very common to leak there and thats why they sell the stuff. If your sink is old you may have to scrape clean the surfaces the gaskets mate to.

http://www.hammerzone.com/arch...s/faucet_moen84200.htm

Thanks for the link. That looks like everything I have done already to a "T" but I still have a leak.

Check out this Pic from the article. If you can see the grey nut connecting the metal and the grey plastic tube coming down from inside the captured nut. My leak is occurring in-between the grey plastic nut and the grey plastic tube. Should some plumbers putty or silicone on the inside of that fix the problem?

Notice the thin black area between the sink & flage?

It is critical that the gasket go in the correct place.

 

[GoingUp]

Originally posted by: iGas

Originally posted by: Gobadgrs

Originally posted by: AMDMaddness
plumbers putty. wrap a small bead under the chrome ring that goes into your sink from the top. Very common to leak there and thats why they sell the stuff. If your sink is old you may have to scrape clean the surfaces the gaskets mate to.

http://www.hammerzone.com/arch...s/faucet_moen84200.htm

Thanks for the link. That looks like everything I have done already to a "T" but I still have a leak.

Check out this Pic from the article. If you can see the grey nut connecting the metal and the grey plastic tube coming down from inside the captured nut. My leak is occurring in-between the grey plastic nut and the grey plastic tube. Should some plumbers putty or silicone on the inside of that fix the problem?

Notice the thin black area between the sink & flage?

It is critical that the gasket go in the correct place.

Yes, gasket is there and fine. No leaks. The only place I have a leak problems is between the captured nut and tail piece

 

[iGas]

Originally posted by: Gobadgrs

Originally posted by: iGas

Originally posted by: Gobadgrs

Originally posted by: AMDMaddness
plumbers putty. wrap a small bead under the chrome ring that goes into your sink from the top. Very common to leak there and thats why they sell the stuff. If your sink is old you may have to scrape clean the surfaces the gaskets mate to.

http://www.hammerzone.com/arch...s/faucet_moen84200.htm

Thanks for the link. That looks like everything I have done already to a "T" but I still have a leak.

Check out this Pic from the article. If you can see the grey nut connecting the metal and the grey plastic tube coming down from inside the captured nut. My leak is occurring in-between the grey plastic nut and the grey plastic tube. Should some plumbers putty or silicone on the inside of that fix the problem?

Notice the thin black area between the sink & flage?

It is critical that the gasket go in the correct place.

Yes, gasket is there and fine. No leaks. The only place I have a leak problems is between the captured nut and tail piece

A ha.

You mean the tail piece/pop up connections. Text

Check the tail piece and pop up connections for debris or damage. a bit of caulking, pipe dope, teflon tape, or putty may stop the leak.

 

[GoingUp]

Here is a picture I just took to better exercise my point. You can see how I have everything in there right now.

Pic

 

[GoingUp]

Originally posted by: iGas

Originally posted by: Gobadgrs

Originally posted by: iGas

Originally posted by: Gobadgrs

Originally posted by: AMDMaddness
plumbers putty. wrap a small bead under the chrome ring that goes into your sink from the top. Very common to leak there and thats why they sell the stuff. If your sink is old you may have to scrape clean the surfaces the gaskets mate to.

http://www.hammerzone.com/arch...s/faucet_moen84200.htm

Thanks for the link. That looks like everything I have done already to a "T" but I still have a leak.

Check out this Pic from the article. If you can see the grey nut connecting the metal and the grey plastic tube coming down from inside the captured nut. My leak is occurring in-between the grey plastic nut and the grey plastic tube. Should some plumbers putty or silicone on the inside of that fix the problem?

Notice the thin black area between the sink & flage?

It is critical that the gasket go in the correct place.

Yes, gasket is there and fine. No leaks. The only place I have a leak problems is between the captured nut and tail piece

A ha.

You mean the tail piece/pop up connections. Text

Check the tail piece and pop up connections for debris or damage. a bit of caulking, pipe dope, teflon tape, or putty may stop the leak.

I put teflon tape on tonight and I still get leaks between the plastic pieces.

 

[iGas]

Originally posted by: Gobadgrs

Originally posted by: iGas

Originally posted by: Gobadgrs

Originally posted by: iGas

Originally posted by: Gobadgrs

Originally posted by: AMDMaddness
plumbers putty. wrap a small bead under the chrome ring that goes into your sink from the top. Very common to leak there and thats why they sell the stuff. If your sink is old you may have to scrape clean the surfaces the gaskets mate to.

http://www.hammerzone.com/arch...s/faucet_moen84200.htm

Thanks for the link. That looks like everything I have done already to a "T" but I still have a leak.

Check out this Pic from the article. If you can see the grey nut connecting the metal and the grey plastic tube coming down from inside the captured nut. My leak is occurring in-between the grey plastic nut and the grey plastic tube. Should some plumbers putty or silicone on the inside of that fix the problem?

Notice the thin black area between the sink & flage?

It is critical that the gasket go in the correct place.

Yes, gasket is there and fine. No leaks. The only place I have a leak problems is between the captured nut and tail piece

A ha.

You mean the tail piece/pop up connections. Text

Check the tail piece and pop up connections for debris or damage. a bit of caulking, pipe dope, teflon tape, or putty may stop the leak.

I put teflon tape on tonight and I still get leaks between the plastic pieces.

That connection shouldn't requires anything. Teflon tape is the last step. It is very easy to cross thread with plastic/metal when use teflon tape (therefore it generally only require thin teflon tape at 1.5-2 wounds) try undo the pop up drain assembly and generously dope it up with pipe dope an carefully wound it back (make sure that it is not cross thread). Next step is caulking or replace the pop up drain assembly.

 

[GoingUp]

Originally posted by: iGas

Originally posted by: Gobadgrs

Originally posted by: iGas

Originally posted by: Gobadgrs

Originally posted by: iGas

Originally posted by: Gobadgrs

Originally posted by: AMDMaddness
plumbers putty. wrap a small bead under the chrome ring that goes into your sink from the top. Very common to leak there and thats why they sell the stuff. If your sink is old you may have to scrape clean the surfaces the gaskets mate to.

http://www.hammerzone.com/arch...s/faucet_moen84200.htm

Thanks for the link. That looks like everything I have done already to a "T" but I still have a leak.

Check out this Pic from the article. If you can see the grey nut connecting the metal and the grey plastic tube coming down from inside the captured nut. My leak is occurring in-between the grey plastic nut and the grey plastic tube. Should some plumbers putty or silicone on the inside of that fix the problem?

Notice the thin black area between the sink & flage?

It is critical that the gasket go in the correct place.

Yes, gasket is there and fine. No leaks. The only place I have a leak problems is between the captured nut and tail piece

A ha.

You mean the tail piece/pop up connections. Text

Check the tail piece and pop up connections for debris or damage. a bit of caulking, pipe dope, teflon tape, or putty may stop the leak.

I put teflon tape on tonight and I still get leaks between the plastic pieces.

That connection shouldn't requires anything. Teflon tape is the last step. It is very easy to cross thread with plastic/metal when use teflon tape (therefore it generally only require thin teflon tape at 1.5-2 wounds) try undo the pop up drain assembly and generously dope it up with pipe dope an carefully wound it back (make sure that it is not cross thread). Next step is caulking or replace the pop up drain assembly.

I just slathered up the leaking area with silicone caulk. We'll see what happens in the morning. I'll let it dry overnight.

 

[GoingUp]

Well it didn't fix the problem. Going to take this POS back today and get a different brand.

 

[Rubycon]

Originally posted by: Gobadgrs



I put teflon tape on tonight and I still get leaks between the plastic pieces.

PTFE tape is for tapered connections. That won't work here. You probably have a damaged compression ferrule. If it has a nick in it or has been stretched from cranking down on the ring while crooked it will leak no matter what you do.

 

[BoomerD]

Do you have a Home Depot or Lowes in the area?

 

[GoingUp]

Originally posted by: BoomerD
Do you have a Home Depot or Lowes in the area?

Yep. Think I might head over there instead to see what they have.

 

[iGas]

Originally posted by: Rubycon

Originally posted by: Gobadgrs



I put teflon tape on tonight and I still get leaks between the plastic pieces.

PTFE tape is for tapered connections. That won't work here. You probably have a damaged compression ferrule. If it has a nick in it or has been stretched from cranking down on the ring while crooked it will leak no matter what you do.

There is no ferrule in that connection. It is stop by a taper plastic bottom at top of pop-up drain assembly. Some older design may have a taper plastic gasket to fit over the tailpiece, other would have compression connections, and some metal to metal connection may requires a 1.5-2 wound of extra thin teflon tape/pipe dope.

It is likely that the pop-up drain assembly were over tighten (hand tight only till slightly snug) therefore it is damage (cracked or cut).

IMO, it is not a manufacture defect but incorrect application by the user that cause it to fail.

 

[Rubycon]

Originally posted by: iGas

There is no ferrule in that connection. It is stop by a taper plastic bottom at top of pop-up drain assembly. Some older design may have a taper plastic gasket to fit over the tailpiece, other would have compression connections, and some metal to metal connection may requires a 1.5-2 wound of extra thin teflon tape/pipe dope.

It is likely that the pop-up drain assembly were over tighten (hand tight only till slightly snug) therefore it is damage (cracked or cut).

IMO, it is not a manufacture defect but incorrect application by the user that cause it to fail.

I was referring to the ring Text.

It reminds me of a ferrule used in a true compression connection which this really isn't since it just slips together. But a sanitary line should not have any real pressure on it. (but should not leak either!)

 

[GoingUp]

In terms of installing, you can crank the hell out of the metal washer part to push the gasket up at the top though, can't you?

 

[iGas]

Originally posted by: Rubycon

Originally posted by: iGas

There is no ferrule in that connection. It is stop by a taper plastic bottom at top of pop-up drain assembly. Some older design may have a taper plastic gasket to fit over the tailpiece, other would have compression connections, and some metal to metal connection may requires a 1.5-2 wound of extra thin teflon tape/pipe dope.

It is likely that the pop-up drain assembly were over tighten (hand tight only till slightly snug) therefore it is damage (cracked or cut).

IMO, it is not a manufacture defect but incorrect application by the user that cause it to fail.

I was referring to the ring Text.

It reminds me of a ferrule used in a true compression connection which this really isn't since it just slips together. But a sanitary line should not have any real pressure on it. (but should not leak either!)

If I remember correctly that plastic ring is either is generally made out of polyethylene. In most newer plastic designs, that ring is integrated (cast) in the same plastic as the assembly body.

 

[Rubycon]

It's just a drain - you should not have to crank down hard on anything! Make sure it's straight. Putting any kind of stress on it (misalignment) will make it harder to seal. Making up for that with excessive torque probably will work but doesn't make it right.

Originally posted by: iGas
If I remember correctly that plastic ring is either is generally made out of polyethylene. In most newer plastic designs, that ring is integrated (cast) in the same plastic as the assembly body.

Yes poly will deform nice and seal. Yet another reason to hate plastic pipe!

 

[iGas]

Originally posted by: Gobadgrs
In terms of installing, you can crank the hell out of the metal washer part to push the gasket up at the top though, can't you?

Like I have mentioned above, metal washer doesn't exist in the drainage world of North America.