Hey AT Handymen, give me some advice about fixing a leaky drain

[boomerang]

It looks to me like the collar is bottoming out on the threaded stub protruding from the base of the sink. It's not compressing the sealing ring.

If you disconnect the trap, can you wiggle the tailpiece? If so, this is your problem. With the collar tightened fully, the tailpiece should be rigid.

I've only skimmed a few posts here.

The base of the sink is too thick for the assembly you bought. The stub does not have enough exposed threads for the tailpiece and collar to tighten fully.

 

[GoingUp]

I just installed a third full assembly that I had sitting around the house here that had never been used. And the damn thing leaks in the exact same spot between the collar and tailpiece on the inside. I only hand tightened this POS and still no love. So frickin' frustrating.

I don't think my sink is too thick as I have always been able to tighten things full IMO.

 

[GoingUp]

Originally posted by: iGas

Originally posted by: Gobadgrs
In terms of installing, you can crank the hell out of the metal washer part to push the gasket up at the top though, can't you?

Like I have mentioned above, metal washer doesn't exist in the drainage world of North America.

Maybe it's a case of semantics. What would you call the gold metal part right above the plastic tailpiece in this pic of my actual setup?

Pic of the problem and actual setup

Edit: My bad. Wrong terminology. I meant to say nut.

 

[BoomerD]

Is it possible that it's leaking between the sink and the drain and dribbling down to where the pipe connects? Maybe running down the threads where it's difficult to see?

If three separate install kits leak in the same place, then I'd be looking at where the kits attach to the sink.

 

[boomerang]

I'd like to see a picture of the stub extending below the big gold nut - with the tailpiece removed. I'd also like to see a picture of the tailpiece looking into the end that mates with the stub.

From your picture it sure looks like the collar is dead heading against the gold nut.

 

[boomerang]

Originally posted by: BoomerD
Is it possible that it's leaking between the sink and the drain and dribbling down to where the pipe connects? Maybe running down the threads where it's difficult to see?

If three separate install kits leak in the same place, then I'd be looking at where the kits attach to the sink.

You bet. I replaced the pop-up in the sink in our master bathroom and the neoprene washer would get extruded up into the hole in the bottom of the sink. The hole was way bigger that it needed to be IMO. I tried just tightening it very gently, man handling it as centered as I could get it, etc. I finally ran a big ring of plumbers putty around the bottom before I tightened the nut and it stopped leaking. It's held for years now.

If there is any doubt about where it's leaking, put some food coloring in water and have a helper slowly pour it in the sink while you look.

 

[GoingUp]

Originally posted by: BoomerD
Is it possible that it's leaking between the sink and the drain and dribbling down to where the pipe connects? Maybe running down the threads where it's difficult to see?

If three separate install kits leak in the same place, then I'd be looking at where the kits attach to the sink.

I've put silicone on both the top and bottom of the sink to try to stop any leaks on the outside of the pipes with no luck.

Edit: Well I slathered the bejesus out of anywhere I had leaks with a ridiculous amount of silicone. So far, looks like the leaks have stopped. Going to let things cure and then come back in a few hours.

 

[iGas]

It look like the tailpiece is too short (as shown in your picture) therefore the tail piece isn't tighten down far enough into the washer to prevent the water from leaking out.

Your lavatory may require a drain flange with longer tailpiece, or a tail piece extension may do the trick.

 

[alkemyst]

I had the same problem. It's a case where they don't make things like they used too.

There are a couple things it could be.

The sealant between the flange and the top of sink has to be good. With these plastic parts it makes it harder.

Use teflon tape on the threads the nut to the bottom slides up on.

I ended up going with the nicer metal one for one of the sinks I did as there wasn't enough threads on the plastic one to grab well on my extended basin.

Do not use thread compound on plastic parts in case any oldtimers recommend it.

 

[alkemyst]

Originally posted by: AMDMaddness
plumbers putty. wrap a small bead under the chrome ring that goes into your sink from the top. Very common to leak there and thats why they sell the stuff. If your sink is old you may have to scrape clean the surfaces the gaskets mate to.

http://www.hammerzone.com/arch...s/faucet_moen84200.htm

plumbers putty has been depreciated for silicone. Putty will stain many sinks.

 

[alkemyst]

Originally posted by: Gobadgrs

Any recommendations on if I should leave in the washer or pull it out?

Edit: I also already have silicone by the flange, I will try the plumbers putty next.

the plastic washer should be for allowing the nut to rotate against the rubber gasket.

 

[iGas]

Originally posted by: alkemyst
I had the same problem. It's a case where they don't make things like they used too.

There are a couple things it could be.

The sealant between the flange and the top of sink has to be good. With these plastic parts it makes it harder.

Use teflon tape on the threads the nut to the bottom slides up on.

I ended up going with the nicer metal one for one of the sinks I did as there wasn't enough threads on the plastic one to grab well on my extended basin.

Do not use thread compound on plastic parts in case any oldtimers recommend it.

Please find out the fact before posting guides.

Blue Magic Pipe Thread Compound -- All purpose, non-seizing industrial grade thread sealing compound that produces a leakproof seal on all types of plastic and metal threaded connections. Smooth, grit-free, homogenized.

 

[alkemyst]

good luck that that is what is handed to you at a typical hardware store.

 

[iGas]

Originally posted by: alkemyst

Originally posted by: AMDMaddness
plumbers putty. wrap a small bead under the chrome ring that goes into your sink from the top. Very common to leak there and thats why they sell the stuff. If your sink is old you may have to scrape clean the surfaces the gaskets mate to.

http://www.hammerzone.com/arch...s/faucet_moen84200.htm

plumbers putty has been depreciated for silicone. Putty will stain many sinks.

Putty stain acrylic therefore silicone is suggested by the manufacture for sealing. However, putty work well and doesn't stain the rest of sink/lav materials (stainless steel, porcelain, epoxy, etc...).

 

[iGas]

Originally posted by: alkemyst
good luck that that is what is handed to you at a typical hardware store.

Blue Magic and Masters pro-dope. (is rated for plastic) are the only all purpose pipe thread compound that I have seen, and every plumber that I have ever work with prefer Blue Magic.

There are pipe thread compound for gas, lock-tite, etc.... but there are not certify for drainage/plumbing use in plumbing code.

 

[GoingUp]

Well the drain was still leaking this morning so I took it back and got an all metal unit. This metal unit doesn't have a captured nut, so hopefully it eliminates my problems. Thanks to everyone for the advice so far. I think it was that the old sink was so thick that I didn't have enough threads to complete a seal at the top of the tailpiece. My metal unit doesn't have that, so I think I should be good.

Edit: Just have to wait several hours to make sure the silicone seal I used at the top of the drain is correct, then we should be good to go.

 

[alkemyst]

Originally posted by: iGas

Originally posted by: alkemyst
good luck that that is what is handed to you at a typical hardware store.

Blue Magic and Masters pro-dope. (is rated for plastic) are the only all purpose pipe thread compound that I have seen, and every plumber that I have ever work with prefer Blue Magic.

There are pipe thread compound for gas, lock-tite, etc.... but there are not certify for drainage/plumbing use in plumbing code.

I understand that. I went out to get plastic compound and I was handed stuff unsafe for plastic. I live in a major city and no one carries the plastic safe stuff. Not even Ace.

I am not trying to debate you, just saying what the average homeowner will fine.

 

[GoingUp]

For those of you who cared how it all turned out, the new popup system I bought without the captured nut fixed the problem. Thanks to everyone for their tips as it helped me pick out a new system that works.