Hi folks. New build coming up.

[boondocks]

Do a search here for "Build & boot." I've posted it numerous times. IMO, it's the best way to assemble a new PC. It lets you test components at each step of the assembly.

I can find you posting "build and boot" and "build & boot" but I've yet to find an explanation other than when you first got your ASUS board, and that was pretty simplified.
Oh well, no biggie, maybe someone else will chime in, either way I'm sure I'll be alright. There's just so much more STUFF than there used to be.

 

[mnewsham]

Build and boot is simply building with the least number of components to see if it will boot. One stick of RAM, motherboard, CPU, GPU, and PSU. You do this OUTSIDE of the case, THEN once you have booted up, you add the other components and put it inside the case.

 

[rob454]

Update, I ended up making another partial order, as my -ahem- "banker" released some more funds.
Hoping my severance pay hits the bank tonight. That would allow me to get on the road with the rest of the purchases.

Currently I have;
CASE - HAF 922
MOBO - Gigabyte P67A-UD3-B3
SSD - Corsair F60
GPU - Sapphire HD 6850
PSU - Antec TP-650 (it's pretty!)
OD - (2) LG DVD Burner GH24NS50 OEM
ROUTER - Linksys BEFSR41 (refurb - < $11.00 shipped, up and running)

Next order;
CPU - i7 2600K
OS - WIN 7 PRO System Builders v
RAM - G SKILL Ripjaws 2x4 MB F3-10666CL7D-8GBRH ($79 with coupon code)
HDD - (2) WD Green WD20EARS 2TB
CPU COOLER - CM Hyper 212+
Monitor - Acer S211HLbd 21.5" (can only go 20.5" wide on desk)
KB/Mouse - Probably Logitech wireless
Card Reader -Rosewill RCR-IC002 74-in-1 USB 2.0 3.5" Internal Card Reader
UPS -Tripp Lite OMNIVS1000 OMNI VS 1000 VA 500

Total build cost with everything listed approx $1800.

Advice welcome, and I have some questions if you folks would care to comment.

(1) Would mounting the PSU with the fan oriented to bottom of case be a plus? PC will sit on my computer desk.

(2) Also, there is no matching hole in case for MOBO hole on middle/right of MOBO right below the ATX power plugin. Could/should I place some type of standoff there for board flex when plugging/unplugging ATX? Not particularly paranoid about it, but I thought it worth asking.

(3) When the pc is booted up for first time, I intend to have only SSD & an OD connected. After OS install, better to download drivers than install from MOBO drivers CD?

(4) SSD drive in one of the SATA 3 ports, Both HDD's & OD's in SATA 2 ports seem like the optimal? MOBO has 2 SATA 3, 4 SATA 2.

Sorry for the long a** post.

Do you get Newegg Eblasts?? I saw the 2600k for $299 in my email today.

 

[boondocks]

Build and boot is simply building with the least number of components to see if it will boot. One stick of RAM, motherboard, CPU, GPU, and PSU. You do this OUTSIDE of the case, THEN once you have booted up, you add the other components and put it inside the case.

I understand that. I was going to do him the courtesy of reading his thread, if I could find it.
I know you guys see these threads all the time, that's why I posted explicit questions. It's not so much about what I'll START with as it is the optimum mounting of parts. My pc building days were mostly back in 386/early Pentium boards when board options were very few.
But that's cool, I guess I'm just throwing out nonsensical questions and overthinking it.

 

[boondocks]

Do you get Newegg Eblasts?? I saw the 2600k for $299 in my email today.

Well I was but they stopped, but yeah, I still look on Newegg everyday. Also a break on some RAM and the OS right now.

 

[mfenn]

(1) Would mounting the PSU with the fan oriented to bottom of case be a plus? PC will sit on my computer desk.

The HAF 922 can handle that arrangement because it has a mesh cutout for the PSU, but I probably wouldn't do it. Supplying cold air to the PSU isn't really critical and it helps having a fan drawing hot air out of the bottom of the case, especially if you have partially-exhausting 6850.

(2) Also, there is no matching hole in case for MOBO hole on middle/right of MOBO right below the ATX power plugin. Could/should I place some type of standoff there for board flex when plugging/unplugging ATX? Not particularly paranoid about it, but I thought it worth asking.

It should be fine w/o.

(3) When the pc is booted up for first time, I intend to have only SSD & an OD connected. After OS install, better to download drivers than install from MOBO drivers CD?

Correct on both counts.

(4) SSD drive in one of the SATA 3 ports, Both HDD's & OD's in SATA 2 ports seem like the optimal? MOBO has 2 SATA 3, 4 SATA 2.

The Force is a SATA 3Gb/s drive, so it doesn't matter which ports you use actually.

Sorry for the long a** post.

No problem.

 

[BoomerD]

I can find you posting "build and boot" and "build & boot" but I've yet to find an explanation other than when you first got your ASUS board, and that was pretty simplified.
Oh well, no biggie, maybe someone else will chime in, either way I'm sure I'll be alright. There's just so much more STUFF than there used to be.

Fine...here's the procedure:

Start with your motherboard on a piece of cardboard or other non-conductive surface.
install ONLY the CPU & cooler, ONE stick of RAM in the appropriate slot for single stick configuration, (see your manual) and your video card. Connect the necessary PSU cables, and the appropriate wiring for the case on/off switch.
See if it will boot to BIOS.

If so, add your boot drive.

Try again. If the drive is recognized in the BIOS, add one more stick of RAM for dual channel configuration.
Try again...repeat until you have all RAM installed.

If that goes well, install your ODD and try again.

Then, IF you've managed to get everything installed and still can boot to the BIOS, disconnect your wiring and install the board into the case. You SHOULD be able to do this without removing your CPU cooler or RAM.

Then, reconnect your wiring and make sure everything still works correctly...spend a bit of time working on cable management for air flow...and install your OS, drivers, motherboard utilities, etc...and enjoy.

The reason for going through all these steps is to isolate each piece of hardware during the installation. By building outside the case first, you eliminate any possibility of shorting between board and case...which is often the problem with many problems we see here. (stand-off in the wrong place, etc.)

 

[boondocks]

@mfenn, thanks for getting to all those questions.
@BoomerD, looks like a plan. Thank you.
So much for my ancient A+ , CCNA and other certs after all these years.
If you don't keep your hands into stuff you lose track pretty quickly.
Well, that and age and CRS.
Sh** the only router I've setup in years was my own.

Everything not previously ordered was ordered @ early30 this morning.

 

[BoomerD]

heh-heh...I have a bad case of CRS...AKA CRAFT disease.
If I'd have known I was gonna live this long...I'd have taken better care of myself!

 

[boondocks]

heh-heh...I have a bad case of CRS...AKA CRAFT disease.
If I'd have known I was gonna live this long...I'd have taken better care of myself!

Ain't that the truth?

 

[boondocks]

Well my new build is up and running, everything went pretty smooth overall. Got the OS on the SSD and got set up to load programs on a partition on one of the platter drives (moved user accounts to the D drive and some registry edits). Windows Index @ 7.6 out of the box with no tweaks.

I want to thank everyone for their help and suggestions.

I'm going to really enjoy this machine.

 

[mfenn]

Well my new build is up and running, everything went pretty smooth overall. Got the OS on the SSD and got set up to load programs on a partition on one of the platter drives (moved user accounts to the D drive and some registry edits). Windows Index @ 7.6 out of the box with no tweaks.

I want to thank everyone for their help and suggestions.

I'm going to really enjoy this machine.

Glad we could help and that you're happy with it!