hooking up water line to new fridge?

[Homerboy]

So we're shopping for a new refrigerator and finally going to step into the mid 1980s and get one with in-door water and ice. I'm trying to avoid paying somebody to run the line and hook up the water though.
Under our sink (fridge location 5ft to the left on same linear wall), there is an existing branch/shutoff from a previous water filter system as pictured below. I'm guessing I can use that to hook up the fridge? If so, what do I need? I can't imagine it's too hard - just pressure couplings and the like on both ends? What sucks is that line is pointing straight forward, so whatever I attach is going to jut out quite a bit into the under-counter usable space. It seems as well that that endcap is just threaded on (not soldered)

FWIW, I'm generally a handy guy and can do things myself, I just want to make sure they are done right.

Thanks in advance.

 

[tracerbullet]

Looks like you have a cap, then a bushing, then threads behind that? Seems like there's teflon tape or pipe dope there.

Turn water off of course - I'd go to the main supply even though you have a valve there, just in case. Remove the cap (and the bushing if there is one), and clean up the threads. Take a trip to the local hardware store, mom and pop or big box. Find a kit for these jobs, it'll have the line and some fittings. More than you need but they're under $10 so no worries. Get an adapter to connect the threaded fitting in the house to the one in the kit. Go home and put it together. Pipe dope preferred over teflon tape alone. Don't overtighten.

 

[herm0016]

Don't use the cheap plastic white/clear tubing. use the braided hose. looks like its a cap on 1/2 npt. you should be able to adapt that to a compression fitting for one of the braided hoses to go to the fridge. bring the cap to make sure you get the correct fitting. test the valve first.

for others: never use a saddle valve. just don't. they will leak and when you go to repair it, it will be a huge pain.

 

[Greenman]

Valve appears to be 1/2" pipe threads. I'm going to guess the new refer will be 1/4" plastic tube, and not long enough to reach the valve. You'll need a 1/2" pipe to to 1/4" compression fitting, you could use a 1/2" brass 90 behind it so it doesn't stick out to far. Then get a 1/4" braided stainless refer line to knit through the cabinet to the new refer. You may end up needing one more adapter at the refer end, depends on what's shipped with it.

You don't need to shut the water of at the main as there is already a valve where you're connecting. In that picture it's half way on, pull the handle toward you, that should be the off position, but might not be. I've had valves with the handle changed before, it's surprising.

 

[tracerbullet]

Also be sure you tighten any new parts against the valve already there, i.e. by having a wrench on the valve to hold it still. Don't just count on the existing pipe and joints to counter you. They'll probably hold up but again - just in case.

 

[Homerboy]

All good info everyone! thanks for the feedback.
I plan on taking the cap and/or picture to the hardware store with me and having somebody there get me what I need. I'd actually love to get a 90* turn on that so it doesn't block all the usable under-counter space. Sadly, I realize too that there is a dishwasher and a small cabinet between the valve and where the refrigerator will be, so sadly going to have to pull the dishwasher (major pain) and run the hose through a cabinet I guess.