HOT! : How To Get The Best Price On Your Next Car Purchases!!!!!! (UPDATED)

[azdevil]

The internet is really helpful when buying a car. I know in Arizona for example there are problably close to 70 new car dealerships in a 50 mile radius. Emailing all of the fleet departments and having them compete over you will definately get you below invoice. You always have the holdback and advertising money to get you there. Then you have to fight over most of their "value add package" wich is usually pinstrip and side moldings for like $250. Ridiculous.

What really earks me is KBB trade in value. Kelley Blue Book is a crock, the dealership never goes by their trade in value, unless they screw you on the car you are buying, or they use it to sell their used cars. I have been looking to trade in my car, a 02 Civic EX coupe and the trade in value is 14,500 but they won't give me more than 13500. I asked them how they sell their used cars, they use KBB and they would price my car at over 18000, but can't give me trade in value. I've gotten great prices using fleet, but when I get in their they won't give me trade in value.

Anyone want to buy a Civic in AZ? $16,000

 

[azdevil]

Watch those Accord SE, I had a 2000 4cyl and with the AC on it really dogs. Plus they have a new style comming out for 03, so make sure you get is well below invoice, because it will depreciate more due to the new body style, there is talk of the 03 Accord being car of the year.

 

[Mysterie]

I just got my new car all by using the Internet. Check to see if the brand you have has a car buying website (ie. FordDirect) and choose and pick your car and options. The site should have a way to notify the dealers near you that you want so and so car and they will do all the work. This especially works when you have a version of a car that rarely if ever comes up as a loss leader, or you want a certain color and accessory match. My color and accessory match was hard to find, also in their search there was only one in all of SoCal (I wanted a rare interior-exterior match for a certain version, leather and stick; thru I don't understand why you DON'T have more Mustangs with stick :confused. My dealer searched then emailed and called me gave me a price, which I then could also haggle a bit. So I got the car I wanted for under $300 above dealer invoice without too much work. Not a loss leader but good enough for me.

Also use Carsdirect.com. They can help you get a car for a good deal (no haggle work, what you see is what you get), not as nice as loss leaders and not as nice as the deal I got but pretty close. You can use this on cars that are hard to find for MSRP or less.

BTW I had to try to sell my old Mustang when I got my new one and here is what I used to get a trade in value (also used this for my mother when she wanted to trade-in her 2000 Explorer for a new Escape). Go to the various sites, kbb.com, edmunds, etc and get an average price of trade-in value. I don't trust kbb all on it's own because they sometimes give you an inflated price. On my mother's trade I was wble to get the closest amount of trade in by showing them the website with the trade-in value. But be warned trade-ins aren't doing so well lately. With all the low interest rates and the huge promotional rebates many people are buying new instead of buying used so dealers may bring up that point when you are trading in your car (I also believe this is model specific too, ie my mom got total trade-in value from edmunds but we couldn't get the same for my aunt and she had the same car and wanted to buy the same car. In this case they were getting rid of the 2002 Explorers in such a way the used ones were usually passed by so it was tough to sell them).

Sorry to say but I find the '02 Accord nicer looking than the '03. I find it very unattractive (of course I also find the new Camry style unattractive too). It looks like a large version of the Civic Si, which many reviews did not like because of the way it looked. I think I just find the large looking front lights off-putting (also dislike the Cougar for the self same reason) which makes the whole front design of the car look odd. Why are car companies putting in cars with this funny looking front ends (case in point the '95 Taurus).

 

[StringAttached]

With all the websites and forums around here there are still some books on the subject. The one I liked the most, was "Don't get taken every time" written by Remar Satton who is a cofounder (with Ralph Nader) of the Consumer Task Force for Automotive Issues. Granted, I didn't know much about buying new cars before; this might be why I found this book an eyeopener and quite fascinating reading, too. He, BTW, does recommend going in there and negotiating face to face rather than using Internet, and he does explain why in details. As to me, I like an idea of an E-mail method even if it means losing a couple hundred bucks (but not more!). In the end, going from one dealer to another will take a chunk of your time which has its value, too, unless you treat it as a hobby.

The funny but scary thing, though, last time I went to a dealership for a test drive, I saw this book sitting on a dealer's shelf which makes me think they keep educating themselves too, in order to scr*w us even better

 

[apoppin]

Originally posted by: StringAttached
With all the websites and forums around here there are still some books on the subject. The one I liked the most, was "Don't get taken every time" written by Remar Satton who is a cofounder (with Ralph Nader) of the Consumer Task Force for Automotive Issues. Granted, I didn't know much about buying new cars before; this might be why I found this book an eyeopener and quite fascinating reading, too. He, BTW, does recommend going in there and negotiating face to face rather than using Internet, and he does explain why in details. As to me, I like an idea of an E-mail method even if it means losing a couple hundred bucks (but not more!). In the end, going from one dealer to another will take a chunk of your time which has its value, too, unless you treat it as a hobby.

The funny but scary thing, though, last time I went to a dealership for a test drive, I saw this book sitting on a dealer's shelf which makes me think they keep educating themselves too, in order to scr*w us even better

That's why I kept asking about the "practicality" of using the Internet to do anything more than research. Yes, the salesman's/dealership's money comes from maximizing every sale. You can bet they know everything we do (plus). I also overheard salesmen laughing at the "geeks who think they know everything" particularly referring to the e-mail buyers.

 

[cyfan2001]

Kulki...your question may have been answered (I skipped the reponses after yours.) If you're selling a used car, look on Edmunds.com for their pricing. You will see 3 prices. Wholesale is what you'd expect if you traded it in at a dealer. Private Party is what you could sell it for in a private sale. Retail is what you might expect to see on the lot. Here's what I've found with 3 cars I've bought/sold.

1) You can easily get wholesale when trading in a car to dealer. Consider this the lowest you should get.

2) Private parties truly interested in your car will pay the private party price. You can even show them the printouts from Edmunds. Say to them: "This is a fair deal, I won't negotiate." You'll get your price.

3) If you go to a new car lot, you can find used cars and negotiate them down to the Private Party price. It takes some time, but stick to your guns. Start a little lower than the PP price, and go up a little. Just keep saying "My price is fair, that is what the car is worth." Their Kelly Blue Book will show it being worth a bit more. But keep hounding them. Joke that they got their money off the guy who bought a new car...it's the truth. They just want the used thing off the lot.

BTW, I also learned that when you get a fair deal with the salesguy and the manager tries to come in and up the price on you, IMMEDIATELY say no thanks get up and walk out in a huff. You'll get your car and some groveling.

One last trick I found. Keep saying to the salesguy at the dealership: "Let's shake hands on this right now and we'll be done." (Hold your hand out occassionally too.) It is a positive signal to him that you've got a deal if he reciprocates. It works wonders!

 

[fxsts]

Using a broker is also a good way if you know any.

 

[RU482]

I usually just go to carsdirect.com and get their price...that's probably the best guideline on what price you can get the car for, +/- $500

also, if you want to pay the least amount for a new (meaning not used) car, wait till the end of the model year...or even better, buy the old model when a redone newer model is comeing out (example, 02 accord)

 

[smilesdotCom]

 

[smilesdotCom]

Anyone ever try buying a car in Canada? Seems to me that you can save big bucks on the exchange rate. A few friends of mine have done this, and they are happy.

 

[Kenji4861]

Originally posted by: apoppin

Originally posted by: 187
ive always found that if you gain entrance to the dealership at night when it is closed. you could get a relativly great price for anycar you want. as someone pointed out, you must be armed with the right information i.e. crowbar, screwdriver etc..

Yes, in the short term, perhaps. However, there is something to be said for pride of ownership.

Kenji4861, have you actually followed your own suggestions? Or is this just speculative? From my experience, it simply does not work if you want the BEST deal.

I believe this method will get you the best price at that time around you. I did this method and I got my 2002 Civic for $600 below invoice + free mat. What do you think is the best method? If the dealerships around you doesn't have an internet department, it won't work ofcoarse. I guess you will need to try the old method - to walk into different dealerships and tell them to beat the other dealership, go to other dealerships, etc.

 

[JerryP]

Most dealers know that we are searching the web, looking for the invoice price, so they will usually settle for 1.5% to 3% over invoice. What we must understand is that the invoice price is what a dealer would pay for that one car. But like everything else, even dealers get discounts! Holdbacks are like rebates for dealer. But more importantly, dealers buy in bulk and that translates into a discount off the invoice. A couple of years back, I bought a Volvo that listed for 35400, but looked online and got 32300 as the invoice price. I bought it for 32000. Holdbacks reduced the price a few hundred, but the dealer had maybe thirty of these new cars in the lot. And who knows how many elsewhere. Searching online I found that for that year's model, the bulk discount ran into several hundred dollars. So getting it for below invoice took some effort, but I knew they were still making money, and they want to move cars. It costs money to keep cars on the lot. They want to sell cars!!! One of the best sales gimmicks is to hand over the keys to the buyer while the showroom is crawling with prospective buyers. Makes everyone hungry!! Besides not everyone is as informed as us. Other will pay above invoice.

 

[apoppin]

Originally posted by: Kenji4861

Originally posted by: apoppin

Kenji4861, have you actually followed your own suggestions? Or is this just speculative? From my experience, it simply does not work if you want the BEST deal.

I believe this method will get you the best price at that time around you. I did this method and I got my 2002 Civic for $600 below invoice + free mat. What do you think is the best method? If the dealerships around you doesn't have an internet department, it won't work ofcoarse. I guess you will need to try the old method - to walk into different dealerships and tell them to beat the other dealership, go to other dealerships, etc.

Honestly, I think the best method is by face-to-face negotiating only IF you are armed with research and are VERY patient. My car's suggested MSRP is $9500 - I got it for less than $6000 - WAY (way) below invoice. Of course the car was the "ad car" (the loss leader: "only ONE car at this price").

I am glad to see your method worked for you. I have never considered it since I equated it with calling the dealerships for the best pricing - what one usually gets that way is non-committment (or an outright LIE) and a "bait" to come on in for the "switch".

 

[Kenji4861]

I was flipping through a 2002 Consumer Report - Auto Edition, I think you can still pick up one of these at Barnes & Noble. Anyways, suggest 4 methods of buying the car
- Going in and negotiating
- Internet Negotiation
- Telephone Negotiation
- Internet Purchasing (Carsdirect)

They say "they" got the best prices by doing the internet negotiation. I'm sure this isn't going to be ALWAYS true in all areas.

 

[apoppin]

Thanks for your post, Kenji4861 . . . it opened some good discussion and ideas. My strong point is personal negotiating - I'll keep going after them "ad" cars.

"There's more than one way to skin a cat" (or car dealer).

 

[jktam]

i personally recommend www.carsdirect.com. i was a little hesistant at first but after bargaining and bargaining i got sick of it. so i went to the website, typed in the car i want, which was a civic ex and got it for $400 under invoice!! went to the dealer. i didn't know what to expect but he just said pick your color. there was no haggling what so ever. we had already agreed on a price through email. it was the best car buying experience of my life.

 

[paulieside]

Anyone look up the dealerships in the bay area yet? If so mind posting all the dealership names and numbers (yea I know im lazy.. but hey it benefits everyone in the area reading this post)

 

[MemnochtheDevil]

Originally posted by: smilesdotCom
Anyone ever try buying a car in Canada? Seems to me that you can save big bucks on the exchange rate. A few friends of mine have done this, and they are happy.

A warning about this, Chrysler has stopped honoring warranties from 'grey market' (reimported legally into the US)vehicles and other manufacturers are considering it also. There are too many vehicles being brought back into the US and undercutting dealers in the north. So if you go this route be sure you will get a full warranty from the manufacturer. Call Ford, chevy, etc.. and give them the VIN number and ask them about the vehicle. Stolen cars are also a concern here. Make sure you use carfax or an equivalent...

There have been a couple of stories since local people got their cars siezed because they were stolen. Other folks have been denied warranty work. Some sleazy businessman from the Chicago area caused a bit of trouble in the midwest...

Memnoch

 

[Nailbunny]

Good advice in this thread.

Another thing to do when car shopping/buying is to do your research. By the time you actually walk into a dealership and are ready to buy know exactly what you want, what it is worth, and what you will spend Then stick to those things. This goes back to the negotiations thing but if a dealer has a notion that you have no clue about the product you're looking for..they will lead you down their road to $$$ in THEIR pocket. I ran into this when buying my integra...the car salespeople hated me (had to go to about 12 dealerships to find what I wanted) because I knew what I wanted, what it was worth, and what I would spend.....and i wouldn't budge on anything.

Oh yea..also...Don't buy Nissan!

DON'T BUY A NISSAN VEHICLE

 

[QueHuong]

Thanks.

 

[Nutzo]

I'd also sugest checking Carsdirect.com. You can get a price quote right from the web site. I checked a few different cars I was interested in, and some prices where just ok, while a few where great.

I ended up deciding on a Camry XLE (needed a good milage family car)

Their price was $600 under invoice, which was $300 lower than the best price I was able to find. It was even better than almost all the "1 only" prices in the paper.

They also found the exact color I wanted (only 5% where this color so it was rare), and the exact options I wanted (just a base XLE with Mags, CD changer, and floor mats), also hard to find. Plus it was even made in Japan, which is very rare. Only problem was I had to drive about 20 miles to pick it up.

I had actual found the exact duplicate of this car at another dealer, was ready to buy it at $300 under invoice (after alot of talking & getting them to match a 1 only newspaper add price) but decided to take one more look at the car before signing. Canceled the deal when I saw the rear bumper was all scraped up. :disgust:

 

[Chadder007]

Hmm....I think Ill email some of the media about this Don't Buy NISSAN story....
I know a lot of local media but no national where it really needs to be.
Don't Buy Nissan!
.....argh!, but I want my 350Z!!! I may not just buy it because of this though....seriously.

 

[fong718]

i'm looking to get a 2002 honda accord se coupe =X
best deal i've gotten is 16800,
did you buy one yet kenji? how much

 

[dyn0]

I actually did the internet negotiating, and i got an accord ex-v6 2002 coupe with mud guards, wheel locks, visor, and a spoiler for $20,700 about 1 month ago. I couldn't even find a dealership to match this within 500 bucks. Internet negotiating is the way to go, in my opinion. I first got quoted 22,700, but I got them to go down dramatically but telling them the prices other dealerships are quoting me.

PM me if you have any questions.

I am in the south, different regions have different prices on these cars.

dyn0

 

[schlubbs]

very interesting thread from my POV.

I am a car dealer. I have been in the business for over 30 years. I will now cut thru all of the BS and reveal "the secret" way to buy a new car.

1. do all of your research beforehand--internet ,test drives etc.

2. pick the EXACT model you want. the easiest way to do this is to look at the bottom $$$ on the window sticker.

3. visit 5 dealers in your area and tell each of them that you are shopping their competitors. it will help you a great deal to have your checkbook/title prominently displayed.

4. typically what happens by using this method is that of the 5 dealers is:

A. one dealer will be %10 low with his price. this is called a lowball. he is lying to you to get you to come back to him so that he can then move you up in price. ask yourself a question -- do you want to do business with a merchant that lied to you to get your business ?

B. one dealer will be %10 high with his price. this dealer is either stupid or he figures you are. cross him off your list.

C. the remaining 3 dealers will be usually within $100.00 of each other . pick the dealer that is the closest to your home or workplace (or the one that you are most comfortable with) and offer him $500.00 less than his offer to you. be prepared to haggle. a few minutes of give and take can usually save you a couple of hundred dollars. BTW , when writing out the check for your offer make it for a substantial amount - a $20.00 deposit SHOUTS that you are not a serious buyer-- a $500.00 deposit has a way of focusing the sales managers attention.


this is the best method that I know of to buy a new car