- May 28, 2011
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Couldn't add anymore pics to the OP so you'll find the new ones at the end.
Thanks
Here's a few pics to get the context flowing.
This is very similar, although smaller than, our finished project.
I finally got the updated prints, reflecting the change from 79 units to 95.
I haven't had time to go to site and get some real pics, we're trying to finish 2 other hotels (and many other things) right now as well. Hoping tomorrow I'll be able to.
NOV 26
Finally grabbed a few shots.
This is the framing station where walls are prefabbed. We have to do things a bit differently this time of year up here. Ordinarily a building like this would be done 'build and stand', where walls are built in place and stood up on the spot. However, -30C° windchills and a foot of snow make pouring a 20,000 sq ft slab very troublesome. To combat the weather, the walls are prebuilt, stood in place, and the first floor is 'capped' with the floor system of the 2nd floor. Now that it's mostly enclosed, 6 to 10 large (500k+btu each) heaters are ran to create a proper environment for a good concrete pour.
This is a few piles of prebuilt walls, and incidentally, my grey f350
This is a pic of the footing and frost wall. We need a depth of 4 feet or greater to avoid frost heaves at this latitude. On a building this size, the minimum footing thickness is 10 inches (compared to 6 on a large house) with most of it actually 12 inches and above. There is 4 courses of large rebar (5/8" iirc), again compared to the single 3/8" requirement for house footings, as well as vertical bars approx 16" spaced. The vertical bars protrude from the top of the frost wall, and are bent over to tie into the slab rebar grid. Rebar must overlap 2 feet and the overlap must be tied in 2 or more places.
Here is a wider shot, notice a few of the indirect-fired heaters. You'll also notice the black spots along the frost wall. This is where the 2 sides of the forms are connected together with heavy guage tie wire. There are plastic cones on each end of the wire inside of the form that aid in form removal, and they leave small indentations in the concrete. To keep the exposed end of the cross-wire from rusting through (thus creating a water penetration), the indentations are filled with tar, then the entire exterior side of the frost wall is tarred as well.
A few notes:
Wood framed buildings rarely go above 5 stories (many areas have building codes prohibiting it outright), there is a HUGE amount of shrinkage to deal with at those heights. Depending on the dryness of the wood during construction, a 5 story building can lose almost 2 inches of height from compression.
Also, the town/city fire department abilities determine the maximum building height (we are limited to 4 stories), which increases costs quite a bit (anything 3 or more stories requires an elevator and above that footprint costs more than adding another floor).
I think I covered most things. Feel free to ask any questions.
Thanks
Here's a few pics to get the context flowing.
This is very similar, although smaller than, our finished project.
I finally got the updated prints, reflecting the change from 79 units to 95.
I haven't had time to go to site and get some real pics, we're trying to finish 2 other hotels (and many other things) right now as well. Hoping tomorrow I'll be able to.
NOV 26
Finally grabbed a few shots.
This is the framing station where walls are prefabbed. We have to do things a bit differently this time of year up here. Ordinarily a building like this would be done 'build and stand', where walls are built in place and stood up on the spot. However, -30C° windchills and a foot of snow make pouring a 20,000 sq ft slab very troublesome. To combat the weather, the walls are prebuilt, stood in place, and the first floor is 'capped' with the floor system of the 2nd floor. Now that it's mostly enclosed, 6 to 10 large (500k+btu each) heaters are ran to create a proper environment for a good concrete pour.
This is a few piles of prebuilt walls, and incidentally, my grey f350
This is a pic of the footing and frost wall. We need a depth of 4 feet or greater to avoid frost heaves at this latitude. On a building this size, the minimum footing thickness is 10 inches (compared to 6 on a large house) with most of it actually 12 inches and above. There is 4 courses of large rebar (5/8" iirc), again compared to the single 3/8" requirement for house footings, as well as vertical bars approx 16" spaced. The vertical bars protrude from the top of the frost wall, and are bent over to tie into the slab rebar grid. Rebar must overlap 2 feet and the overlap must be tied in 2 or more places.
Here is a wider shot, notice a few of the indirect-fired heaters. You'll also notice the black spots along the frost wall. This is where the 2 sides of the forms are connected together with heavy guage tie wire. There are plastic cones on each end of the wire inside of the form that aid in form removal, and they leave small indentations in the concrete. To keep the exposed end of the cross-wire from rusting through (thus creating a water penetration), the indentations are filled with tar, then the entire exterior side of the frost wall is tarred as well.
A few notes:
Wood framed buildings rarely go above 5 stories (many areas have building codes prohibiting it outright), there is a HUGE amount of shrinkage to deal with at those heights. Depending on the dryness of the wood during construction, a 5 story building can lose almost 2 inches of height from compression.
Also, the town/city fire department abilities determine the maximum building height (we are limited to 4 stories), which increases costs quite a bit (anything 3 or more stories requires an elevator and above that footprint costs more than adding another floor).
I think I covered most things. Feel free to ask any questions.
http://forums.anandtech.com//www.pinterest.com/pin/create/extension/Original post
One of my projects just starting this year is a medium (95 suite w/pool) hotel, I was wondering if anyone would be interested in pics/description of the process from start to finish. If so, I'll rename this thread and start dropping off pics throughout the build. The whole process takes 10 to 14 months. It will be fantastically boring to most people, but if you've ever wondered about commercial projects it could be a good read for you. If there doesn't seem to be any interest I'll let it sail the pages of the forum to the forgotten posts of yesteryear.
Yes? No?
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