How big a job is replacing brakes and rotors on 93 Honda Accord EX V6?

[T2urtle]

Don't u have to repack the bearings on when u pull rotors off these accords?

Sent from my Nexus One

 

[alpineranger]

This vintage accord has captive rotors, making replacement considerably more difficult than in almost all other cars (you'll need a press). If you're replacing pads alone it will be easy as it typically is.

 

[JulesMaximus]

Buy a good shop/repair manual----a factory repair manual is best----and read about the repair before even setting a jack down.

Then, do one side of your brakes at a time. This gives you one side to compare to the other if you get stuck as to how it's supposed to look.

Front disc brakes is one of the easiest repair jobs on a car you can do. The timing belt, not so much, esp. for someone with little to no wrenching experience.

I did that once. Waaay too technical and I could never find exactly what I was looking for easily. If he's just doing brakes the Haynes manual is detailed enough.

 

[NutBucket]

Actually, he typed it wrong. He has an '03 so no hub-over-rotor design. I guess that was built-in profit back in the early 90's.

Also, most new Hondas use chains now. I'm not impressed. The motor in my '91 Accord was silky smooth. I've yet to drive a chain driven Honda motor with the same smoothness.

 

[T2urtle]

This vintage accord has captive rotors, making replacement considerably more difficult than in almost all other cars (you'll need a press). If you're replacing pads alone it will be easy as it typically is.

Actually, he typed it wrong. He has an '03 so no hub-over-rotor design. I guess that was built-in profit back in the early 90's.

I dont know what it was called or what the whole thing was. I know i did brakes on one of them when i was in highschool for a buddy and i was in over my head back then, Had something to do with pull CV axle out and etc. So i just put on pads and told him its the best i can do.

since then i dont mess with accord rotors.


i found this on a 97,

http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1281812

its all fine and dandy for the guys living in CA, TX, and etc. But mid-west salt/rust and etc no way would a rotor come off that easily.

 

[leeland]

This car has existed in Wisconsin for its life so I am going to assume the worst when trying to remove OEM parts that have been on the car for 8+ Wisconsin winters...

I personally want to take it to a reputable mechanic for Honda's for the simple fact I just don't have the time to work on it...

Some of the work (water pump, timing belt) should obviously be handled by a professional...other stuff (brakes, rotors...) I might be able to have my dad's friend work on as it shouldn't be too difficult and I could save some money.

I have seen the 'PCV Valve' mentioned on other forums and posts...also getting valve clearances checked...

What is the explanation for these parts? and why have them done?

 

[thomsbrain]

I'm thinking you weren't using the right tool. If you use an impact driver, there is a lot less chance you'll need to drill out the rotors.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947641000P

I used one on an 07 accord that, if we wouldn't have had them we would have had to drill them out. They came right out with the tool though.

I did use an impact driver. It sheared out the heads of the screws and they still wouldn't move. Not all the screws, some came out with the impact driver. Like I said, some were rusted stuck. The car you worked on was four years newer than mine and probably had a fraction of the miles.

 

[thomsbrain]

Well it has not been a VERY long time since maxlife was a good honda fluid. So many people still think Honda z1 is the only thing you can use. That and maxlife seems to work better so that is why I tell people to use that now over the honda stuff.

Now the rear diff hondas still have their own special fluid, Dual Pump 2. I have not found anything to replace that. It seems to be a cross between gear oil and trans fluid by the color and smell.

The last honda I worked on got Maxlife trans fluid and Honda Dual Pump 2 fluid for the diff.

The diff on the S2000 takes straight gear oil. Honda's Dual Pump fluid will ruin the S2000's diff in no time.

 

[Howard]

The screws that hold rotors on get stuck as if that's how they were designed to maintain pre-load. Just drill them out (I used a combination of grinding and prying).

 

[mgttr]

Thanks a lot guys for the discussion I really do appreciate it and I have some follow up questions...

The main points I should be concerned with or want to get replaced during this major maintenance window...

I have the following:

Timing Belt
Water Pump
Most likely Front brakes and rotors
Any and all belts
Change Transmission fluid ( was done at about 60,000 miles)
(Oil change I do myself with Bosch filter and decent oil)
Air filter (do myself)
Cabin filter (never done...should it be done?)
Rear brakes (I had the pads done awhile ago...should I consider rotors as well here?)...at least I think they are rotor brakes vs. drum...
platinum plugs


drain radiator fluid? (never done and I have owned the car for 80,000 miles)
Any other specific items I should inquire or just add to the list?


Thanks again,

Lee

If you're having all that done at a Honda dealer, $2,000 doesn't seem unreasonable. I had a 2005 Accord EX V-6 and had the timing belt, water pump, coolant, serpentine belt, and all tensioners and idlers for both belts replaced at a Honda dealer and it was about $1,200.

I would agree with what others have said about changing the transmission fluid every 30K miles. Honda hasn't had the greatest reputation when it comes to automatic transmissions.

 

[simonizor]

If you're having all that done at a Honda dealer, $2,000 doesn't seem unreasonable. I had a 2005 Accord EX V-6 and had the timing belt, water pump, coolant, serpentine belt, and all tensioners and idlers for both belts replaced at a Honda dealer and it was about $1,200.

I would agree with what others have said about changing the transmission fluid every 30K miles. Honda hasn't had the greatest reputation when it comes to automatic transmissions.

Sure, it doesn't seem very unreasonable at a dealer, but any other Honda certified mechanic wouldn't charge that much. It's well known that if you take your car to the dealer to get worked on, you are getting ripped off. The "piece of mind" that you get from taking it to the dealer is hogwash. If the mechanic is properly certified, they'll do just as good of a job as your dealer would.

 

[leeland]

Sure, it doesn't seem very unreasonable at a dealer, but any other Honda certified mechanic wouldn't charge that much. It's well known that if you take your car to the dealer to get worked on, you are getting ripped off. The "piece of mind" that you get from taking it to the dealer is hogwash. If the mechanic is properly certified, they'll do just as good of a job as your dealer would.

I have generally always gone to the dealer...for major work on the car.

How do you go about easily finding certified mechanics for a particular car brand? phone book?

 

[T2urtle]

Yelp?

Honda forums normally have younger guys who are local doing sickjobs. Just ask around.



Sent from my Nexus One

 

[leeland]

WOW...so I started looking around online for the parts and found the plethora of Google hits about the 2003 Accord AT failure...

It seems like this car is a time-bomb even though we haven't had any issues at all with the transmission...

If half of the posts are true about people having issues with their transmissions blowing up...the smart person would probably dump the car and get something new.

I was hoping to avoid that as we already have 1 car payment and aren't looking to get into more debt.

Out of curiosity is there anything I can do to evaluate the status of the transmission as it stands now outside of flushing the transmission fluid? Last done about 35,000 miles ago and again I have noticed nothing abnormal with the shifting or function of the transmission.

I got a quote from my mechanic friend (minus fluids) for the following and it totalled 1900 dollars. I asked if he would let me get the parts from autozone with the 20% off coupon and he said he was fine with that...

• Replace rotors and pads. The front pads are shot ‘grinding’ and I believe the rotors are warped ‘shudders’. I have never had the rotors worked on the car, and the only brake work I have done is replacing the rear pads.
• Replace spark plugs
• Replace timing belt and ‘inspect water pump’ (not sure if this should be done by the dealership or not…they recommended just changing the timing belt and water pump regardless at 105,000 miles).
• Replace brake fluid
• Replace transmission fluid
• Replace engine coolant
• Replace PCV valve (read it was a good idea to do)
• Replace thermostat???
• Replace Radiator Cap???
• Replace serpentine belt, and all tensioners and idlers for both belts.

These are recommended by the book for investigation and review
• Inspect tie rod ends, steering gear box, and boots
• Inspect suspension components
• Inspect drive shaft boots
• Inspect fuel lines and connections
• Inspect exhaust system
• Inspect the brake lines and hoses
• Inspect Valve clearance (not sure if this should be done by the dealership or not…it is recommended to be done)

 

[Vette73]

^

Advance auto has better coupons right now IMO.

But I would do a drain and fill on the trans fluid every 10k with Valvolines Maxlife. The trans has a drain plug so just jack up, drain fluid, top off, and drive.

 

[leeland]

^

Advance auto has better coupons right now IMO.

But I would do a drain and fill on the trans fluid every 10k with Valvolines Maxlife. The trans has a drain plug so just jack up, drain fluid, top off, and drive.

better coupons? any reference to a location would be appreciated.


Thanks,

lee

 

[Vette73]

^


Here ya go....

http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/hot-deals/1023879/

Place order online for pickup, enter coupon, and pay with paypal.
You can place more than 1 order so split your items up to get the best % off.
Can't use on oil but can use on Trans fluid. I bought about 5 gallons of Maxlife and 4 qts of Syn Gear oil.

 

[CraigRT]

The fact Honda still uses timing belts is one of the key reasons I didn't buy a used Pilot that was due for its $750 (dealer price) timing belt change and ,although I'll work on brakes and the like all day long, I wasn't interested in that labor.

They don't on a lot of cars now.
One of the reasons I decided to go with a Civic as my new car. (Timing chain engine)

 

[mgttr]

• Replace timing belt and ‘inspect water pump’ (not sure if this should be done by the dealership or not…they recommended just changing the timing belt and water pump regardless at 105,000 miles).

If your 2003 engine is the same as my 2005, the water pump is driven by the timing belt. Since that makes it a pain to change the water pump, the usual recommendation is to change the water pump for good measure when you're replacing the timing belt, as you're already doing a lot of the labor anyway.

My water pump started leaking at around 65K miles.

You don't have to have the timing belt and water pump done at the dealer - an independent shop or mechanic can do it.